New HG, now it ticks and shakes horrible

['90RPS13]

Ok, I put the new HG on and everything to is needed. Put it all back together, filled the oil, filled the coolant. Started it and I have to give it gas or it dies. Also, it shakes horrible, like HORRIBLE and slightly ticks. I set the timing like this:

5th mark from the left on the crank (15*) and set the camshaft timing to the pin that holds the sprocket from moving freely at 12 'o clock. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[statik]

you set the mechanical timing wrong. When doing mecahnical timing the motor needs to be at TDC (0*), 2nd mark from the left. 5th mark from the left or 2nd from the right is 15* BTDC which is what timing should be set at with a timing light and the car running, big difference.
Heres how I set mechnical timing:

Make sure the motor is at TDC on #1 2nd mark from the left, intake cam pin at roughly 10, exhaust cam pin at roughly 12, 20 rollers between the cam dots, or you can do the colored chain link method which you can't fuck up. Just keep rotating the motor until you get the 2 gold colored links uptop near the cam gears, bring the motor to TDC on #1 and then line up the 2 gold links to the 2 cam gear dots. Restabbing the cas just follow FSM procedure and you should be close enough to 15* to get it running and set timing properly.

['90RPS13]

Awesome, thanks. I think also what I did, just because the pin on the sprocket is at 12 o'clock, doesnt mean cylinder 1 valves are open correct? Thanks for the help. I will go out tomorrow and finish it. Posi!

[statik]

Awesome, thanks. I think also what I did, just because the pin is at 12*, doesnt mean cylinder 1 valves are open correct? Thanks for the help. I will go out tomorrow and finish it. Posi!

Hmm not really sure what you're asking, at TDC the intake/exhaust valves should be closed since it just finished the compression stroke.

[scottie]

Yeah i think by the way you described it, its timing. A little trick i figured out if you use ARP headstuds, is that you can keep the front cover off and slip the head over the studs and let it rest there (may have to stick something soft to keep it from falling all the way down). I had mine on an engine stand so i just tilted it a little. Anyways, if you want to make absolutely sure you are at TDC, pull the front cover off, Put the crank KEY mark straight up, there will be a dot on the crank that should point at 5 O'Clock. Now put the GOLD chain link on that 5 O'Clock dot, put the two SILVER marks on the camshaft mating marks (IN @ 10 O'Clock/ EX @ 1 O'Clock). Here is a diagram for you and anyone else who doesnt have a manual (which is a sin):

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/Time1.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m99/scotheocelot/Time2.jpg

Scott

[statik]

yeah that was my bad, after confusing the fuck out of him by assuming it was an SR, turns out it was a KAE hah, but we figured out last night he was still at the wrong timing mark on the crank pulley so he should be good to go after fixing that.

[scottie]

yeah that was my bad, after confusing the fuck out of him by assuming it was an SR, turns out it was a KAE hah, but we figured out last night he was still at the wrong timing mark on the crank pulley so he should be good to go after fixing that.

LOL! Thats your problem, damn KA's! :keke: j/k

['90RPS13]

BTW, Its a KA24E guys.

I set the timing on the crank to the second mark from the left, 0*. I set the camshaft timing to the correct marking, the dot on sprocket. Facing the front of the car, its on the right side of the head. Dizzy rotor is pointed to spark plug #1.

What I was thinking, just because the dot is parrellel to the head, doesnt mean that its on the correct revolution, So which Intake Valves have to be open on a SOHC at the correct timing? Right now, how I have it set, Exhaust Valve on cylinder #2 is open when its at the "correct" timing.

Any idea? Peease.