my KA-T has said GOODBYE

[boosteds14]

well it all happened when i decided to check what this car had on the road. so i dumped a half tank of race gas in the car and went out for the night. started to fool around with the boost controller and experimented with different boost levels. well thinking that i had a bullet proof engine, i hit 27psi. did this a couple of times and then once or twice i spiked to 30psi. well the car went well. too well to be straight. and then it happened. at idle my oil light came on and off really fast. as soon as that happened i heard a ticking noise at around 3000rpm. well it got worse and worse so i went home. got home checked the oil and the oil looked like it had a brass color. droped thte oil pan took the rod caps off and saw it. bamm. the bearing had spun.

thinking the motor is still under warranty, called the person who did the motor and said it had a 1000mile warranty and that was it. i have 2800miles on the motor. and i am the idiot that told him that. so another word i am fucked.  

so........thats it the car will sit in the garage for a long time now until i get money and time to take the motor out because the crank is shot..

life sucks

[SimpleS14]

damn I'm sorry to hear that <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('>

What are you going to do with the other KA in your garage or what are you going to do when you get the money (next year it seems)?

[uiuc240]

can you already tell the crank is shot??? &nbsp;sometimes, you can get away with dropping the crank, polishing it, putting in new bearings, and rolling with it. &nbsp;but that's considering that the bearing didn't TOTALLY F up the crank. &nbsp;do you have a pic?

i'm sorry man. &nbsp;that blows. &nbsp;no pun intended

Eric

[uuninja]

Ouch man sorry to hear that. Any idea why the bearing failed?

[sykikchimp]

wow.. &nbsp;I wonder what kind of power you were putting down at 30psi?? &nbsp;guess you found the limit. &nbsp;Time to learn from it, and make sure that specific item doesn't fail next time.

True bummer though. &nbsp;At least it gives you something to do. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[DuffMan]

What kind of bearing was it? I assume it wasn't stock.

[DSC]

Posts like this scare the shit out of me <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/cry.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':cry:'>

What can you do to make that not happen again? &nbsp;Your crank was stock, other than pollish and ballance which i guess wouldn't make it any stronger, right?

[CoasTek240]

ditto on that DSC
-that really sux.. i fell like crying! suchj a beautifull car.. i guess a stonger crank woulda been nice.. what woul;d you have done diff,. in retrospect.. let us learn from ur mistake.. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/butbut.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':but:'>

[transient]

Wow, that's tough luck. At least your entire engine isn't toast though... have you found out how much a new crank, bearings etc would be? Maybe you can do the repair yourself. An engine crane and stand aren't that expensive, and you'll probably save it on labor (if you don't have these already)

[uuninja]

Um it dosen't sound like crank failure. The bearing probably spun due to excessive load, oil starvation, or some type of defect. &nbsp;Hope fully the crank is not too banged up and all that is needed is a new rod bearing.

[AceInHole]

custom crank time??? i remember discussing the ultimate KA.....

[S13Grl]

Supposedly, the KA crank lasts 'till about 400 horse (I think that's pretty damn impressive for a 155-horse motor).

What are you gonna do next?

[drift freaq]

well it sounds like a oil starvation issue due to excessive load. was your crank cross drilled and chamfered? that usually helps the the oiling issues . Another thing we used to do with high performance 510 and 240z engines was put on higher pressure and flow oil pumps. In fact Nismo sells kits for that. At least for the L series engines. Probably for the SR too. Anyways you got boost crazy and you paid the price I feel for you. I know its the toughest thing knowing that you could have held yourself back but did not. No engine is bulletproof regardless of how its built.
There is always a driver out there that can blow it up. Thats why you see F1 drivers shelling their engines a part way into a race.
Comes with the territory you play you may pay. may sound cold but its true .
You do have my deepest sympathies though . It sucks and I hope to never be in your shoes( steps back crosses chest and looks upwards).
Oh well there is the possibility you might be able to just polish the journal and put in a new bearing because you caught it early . Good luck

[mbmbmb23]

Sorry about your engine dude.

I wonder if anyone makes a windage tray for the 240sx oil pan? &nbsp;I'd never heard of them before my dad took apart his 2001 V6 mustang engine. &nbsp;They keep the oil from splashing up.....kinda like a shelf in the bottom of the oil pan. &nbsp;Supposidly they help the crank to be more efficient.

Also, does anyone make a performance bearing kit for the 240sx crank?

-m

[boosteds14]

ok, i pulled some crap off and talked to the person who did the motor and here is the low down.

the number 2 piston rod bearong spun. looks like it was too tight. it just wore into many little peices. the crank journal was also harmed very much. welded peices to the journal actually. it is not savagable. now all the pieces from the bearing came out and flowed into my oil pump and scored the oil pump so i lost alot of oil pressure.
so the things i need is a crank, oil pump, and bearing. the motor needs to be flushed completly because pieces of the bearing also ended up in the head.

now i am so fed up with my piece of shit car that i dont want to take the motor out. so i am having the person who built the car do it. now since he built the head and bottom end, yet did not install it, he is charging me for the motor being taken out but not for things he touched like the internals.

i also got a long hard talk with him that i need to calm down with the boost and limit my self to 25psi. &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> &nbsp; so in the long run it will be fixed.

i wont see the car for awhile because of the fact that i am having him put a 6-point roll cage, LSD that actually works(mine really sucks). ACPT driveshaft(maybe), and some tranny work.

o well, my credit card company loves me though!!

[gemoose23]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ Aug. 10 2002,11:30)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">i also got a long hard talk with him that i need to calm down with the boost and limit my self to 25psi. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> so in the long run it will be fixed.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Ok so I must be missing something here.... I'm probadly asking some newbie questions since I do not own a KA-T motor or a SR motor in my 240sx.

Info I need:
You put some race gas in your car (110 or 114 octane)?
Full race only no mix with preimum unleaded?
Then you proceeded to Mess with your "boost controller", only item of tuning in your car?

My Questions:
What tuning devices do you use, anything to measure Knock, timing and other engine functions?
Isn't 25 psi sorta high for a motor that was not engineered for a turbo?

My thoughts:
I also run a modified Mitsubishi Eclipse, currently tuning it for race gas, yet was informed by many people to start at 1 bar, (roughly 15psi) I run, look at my timing, fuel, and knock charts coming from the ecu. Adjust my S-AFC for fuel trims, and then relog/run my car.

I haven't heard too many cars running around on 25-30 psi on race gas.... (I know of only 1 that does it with haltech and is daily driven) <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>

If you just Upped the Boost controller psi, you might want to rethink your tuning method for your car.

[DuffMan]

Boosteds14 has done a lot more to his car than a boost controller.

[ca18guy]

Look on his website for a list of mods.

[gemoose23]

I looked as bosteds14 webpage, nice list of mods, but i guess im still missing something that i feel is important, and thats tuning methodology.....

How do KA-T and SR20 Guys tune? &nbsp;Air/Fuel Mix? &nbsp;Timing/knock?

[nrcooled]

Well considering I mainly run stock boost on the SR and 10psi when I am feeling naughty I don't think I have too much to wory about and my gauges don't disagree w/ my methodology <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

[boosteds14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I looked as bosteds14 webpage, nice list of mods, but i guess im still missing something that i feel is important, and thats tuning methodology.....

How do KA-T and SR20 Guys tune? &nbsp;Air/Fuel Mix? &nbsp;Timing/knock?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

haha, i get that alot. its all handled by the infamous Jim Wolf Tech ECU. it handles everything what stock can do but with turbo. does the fuel maps, timing and operates the MAF and 72lbs. injectors. that was never a problem with my car. never had any detonation and a good fuel curve. when i put race gas in i advance the timing 2 degrees and still no detonation

i use 104 sunoco race gas

[DragonReborn214]

What city/state are you in? I work at an engine importer, so I could prob get you a good deal on a sr20.

Let me know. I am in the LA area.

[DragonReborn214]

Oh, I could prob also get a ka24

[Anubis]

30psi??? Don't play god!! &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>

[boosteds14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">30psi??? Don't play god!! &nbsp;</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

well i didnt intend to use 30psi. 27psi was my max but it just spiked a couple of times.

i got boost happy. it is like nicotine. its addicting.

i should be on the boost patch

[boosteds14]

any one selling a KA24DE cheap? i need the head and crank.

i have some plans on the head i want to do.

and i need a crank because mine is not good anymore.

[obruT ES 41S 79&#39;]

KA24DE's oil pan has a windage tray. Nothing spectacular, but it's there.

As for oil pressure, according to Sly @ Nissan motorsport, use a 0.040" washer on the pressure relieve valve to pump the pressure up by 5psi. Basically shimming the springs to change the spring rate.

Also, mains bearing, #2 and #4, drill 3 size bigger oil hole. May not be needed for street, but it helps.

[boosteds14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">KA24DE's oil pan has a windage tray. Nothing spectacular, but it's there.

As for oil pressure, according to Sly @ Nissan motorsport, use a 0.040" washer on the pressure relieve valve to pump the pressure up by 5psi. Basically shimming the springs to change the spring rate.

Also, mains bearing, #2 and #4, drill 3 size bigger oil hole. May not be needed for street, but it helps.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

thanks for the tip man. i will consider it when we do the rebuild

what about rod bearings. anything special i should do

[SR20Fastback]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (boosteds14 @ Aug. 12 2002,09:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">i got boost happy. it is like nicotine. its addicting.

i should be on the boost patch</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'll take a couple boxes as well &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'>

[obruT ES 41S 79&#39;]

Two options for rod bearings:

Standard stuff

or

Nissan Motorsport special coated bearings. These are cut-down L-series bearings. Too bad it's one size only. My machine shop is cutting my rods to get the right clearance.

[boosteds14]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Nissan Motorsport special coated bearings. These are cut-down L-series bearings. Too bad it's one size only. My machine shop is cutting my rods to get the right clearance.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>

sounds like a plan