ARP Head Studs Torque Spec

[drift_ricer]

Anyone here know exactly the torque spec for ARP stud (SR20DET Redtop)? i call ARP and they told me to do 30lbs 40lbs and 70lbs. But i do some research and found out there is a different torque spec. SO i'm confuse right now. Please help me, thank you. Also i heard one of my friend said i have to torque the stud 2 times, release them all again, and torque it again???? any ideas you guys.

[TAMTANIUM]

drift ricer use the search button. There are a lot of threads about this already.

[codyace]

After searching, I deciding on torqueing them all according to FSM number sequence, in increments of 10 lbs, then doing a final to 85 ft lbs when all done.

[IIIXziuR]

I too followed the sequence Cody did.

[Big Bronze Rim]

The procedure I used is as follows:

Flip engine over and spray liberal amounts of brake cleaner into the bolt holes to ensure they are clean and let it air dry (dont flip it yet so nothing gets in the holes).
I like to put the supplied lube on the studs and then install them without the head on to make sure they all go in nice and easy and to distribute the lube. Remove them. If you're using a MLS head gasket spray it down with copper spray and let it dry for about 30 minutes. When its dry flip the engine over and clean the deck surface with lint free towel and alcohol. I like the use Kem Wipes for laboratory use. Install the gasket over the dowels and gently lower the head onto the block. Gently drop the studs down into the head and get them started. Run them down with an allen key until snug. Lube up the threads as well as the washers and nuts.
As for torque, use the FSM supplied tightening pattern but use a different torque sequence - 15ft-lbs, then 30ft-lbs, then 45ft-lbs, then 60 ft-lbs, then 75 ft-lbs. Some people go to 85 but I have never had an issue with them at 75 on the engines Ive assembled.

[steve shadows]

The procedure I used is as follows:

Flip engine over and spray liberal amounts of brake cleaner into the bolt holes to ensure they are clean and let it air dry (dont flip it yet so nothing gets in the holes).
I like to put the supplied lube on the studs and then install them without the head on to make sure they all go in nice and easy and to distribute the lube. Remove them. If you're using a MLS head gasket spray it down with copper spray and let it dry for about 30 minutes. When its dry flip the engine over and clean the deck surface with lint free towel and alcohol. I like the use Kem Wipes for laboratory use. Install the gasket over the dowels and gently lower the head onto the block. Gently drop the studs down into the head and get them started. Run them down with an allen key until snug. Lube up the threads as well as the washers and nuts.
As for torque, use the FSM supplied tightening pattern but use a different torque sequence - 15ft-lbs, then 30ft-lbs, then 45ft-lbs, then 60 ft-lbs, then 75 ft-lbs. Some people go to 85 but I have never had an issue with them at 75 on the engines Ive assembled.

I used 80 on the last set I used.

85 is pushing it.

90 can start to strech them and break them.

Theres a thread on FA about stronger material version being possibly available with a longer drop into the block to utilize all of the thread. The ones that are readiliy available are al ittle short.

...mazworks makes custom ones haha

they are like 350 bucks but if your making 600+ whp I would do it...

I think i am going to do ti. :spank: