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View Full Version : How much play should be in the tranny fork? (VID included)


AdamP
04-07-2007, 02:12 PM
So basically the clutch has no pressure when it is depressed.

Master cylinder is brand new and the slave seemed to be in good shape as well. When I push down on the slave until it is compressed and then get somebody to push the clutch down there is pressure.

I checked the fork on the transmission and it has a lot of play (in, out, laterally). When at rest (clutch not being depressed) the slave cylinder is able to push it out to full extension with no problem.

Here is a video of the fork play:
http://members.shaw.ca/fivelitermustang/clutch.avi

Basically checked out all the external parts so I will probably need to remove the transmission.

What parts are needed when internally overhauling the clutch? I suppose I need a new pivot ball. Maybe a new clutch can be thrown in there when it's open. http://www.importconcern.ca/parts/ilist.php?item_id=62

I personally don't think I have enough mechanical knowledge to do this myself so I'd like to buy all the parts first before going to somebody that does? How long would this whole procedure take by somebody that knows what they are doing?

sean350z
04-07-2007, 02:48 PM
My fork has as much play as yours did in that video and it works fine...I would try re-bleeding the slave and if you still have the bleeder box (bendy line attached to the frame) remove that and you are good to go.

contranication
04-07-2007, 08:46 PM
Make sure your bleeding it right... my first time it took me many tries to figure everything out but SEARCH there are tons and tons of clutch problem threads if you need help or got any questions PM me

chlatboy
04-07-2007, 09:06 PM
okay i just did a 5 speed swap this week for my friends car. When bleeding the clutch, have the person who is bleeding the clutch apply pressure on teh fork towards the slave cylinder. This will help the slave build pressure as sometimes the fork is too far away for the slave to push up against. After a few pumps with the person pushing towards the slave, it should start to build pressure. Then from there, you can bleed it normally.

KFLS14
04-07-2007, 09:16 PM
Looks like a tad more play than mine on my ka trans I just installed.

Since you got the slave off, you can pull that rubber boot down over fork. Then check and see if the retaining clip/pivot ball and throw out bearing.

AdamP
04-07-2007, 10:10 PM
There is no question about the fork now... here's a quick video.

http://members.shaw.ca/fivelitermustang/fork.avi

http://members.shaw.ca/fivelitermustang/IMG_2997.JPG

What should I do now? I honestly don't think I can drop the tranny myself. I don't have an engine hoist or torque wrench even. If I supply all the parts how long would it take for somebody skilled to do this (new clutch, flywheel (replacing these anyway while it's open, TO bearing, ball pivot, etc).

chlatboy
04-08-2007, 01:42 AM
alrite, just by looking at ur video, the clutch fork is no longer attached to anything. To get it to work, you should probably remove the tranny. Buying a clutch kit is what is needed. With it, you will get a clutch disk, pressure plate, Throw out bearing, and pilot bearing. I believe you can still use the pressure plate as i have yet to see what it looks like. Just resurface it. just make sure that you clean the clutch fork, and the other little pins and stuff and grease them up real well. What you are looking for is pretty much a clutch job which can range from 300 and up.

AdamP
04-08-2007, 02:10 AM
Any recommendations on some good clutch reliable combos for holding 250-300 rwhp or so? Basically since I need to open it up I'd like to upgrade to something a little better than OEM. Also, should I get a pivot ball as well?

chlatboy
04-08-2007, 02:23 AM
Search around the advertising and GB sections. They shoudl have some good clutches and what not for you to look at. If you would like, you can also upgrade to a lightened flywheel. Depending on what you are looking to get the pricing will go up accordingly. I think you should be fine with a stage 2 clutch. Not sure what you mean by pivot ball unless you are talking about the one on the transmission. Im not sure if you can replace that or not. Didnt really pay attention to that. Everything else should come with a clutch kit. Labor prices will vary depending o nwho you call so shop around!

AdamP
04-08-2007, 03:02 AM
Alright, sounds good. Is a lightened flywheel worth it or should I get the old one resurfaced.

By the way, by mentioning pivot ball I'm talking about this (not mine):
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9593/getimage2yt1.jpg
Apparently from what I've been reading they are known to snap. Nismo makes a good one for $35 but I think an OEM one is like $10.

chlatboy
04-08-2007, 03:19 AM
yea, mite as well replace it if you can get it cheap. I would just resurface the flywheel for now. But its all on you. A fidanze flywheel goes for about 300 a pop and im not sure what plans you have for your car. Just tally it up and see if its something you wanna spend your money on at this point in time.

IDriveFords
04-08-2007, 08:22 PM
The pivot ball is probably the culprit as it most likely snapped which will cause the fork to drop like it has. Same thing happened with my SR. The nismo ones are ridiculously high priced while the OEM ones are like you said about $10. When I got mine they wanted something like $85 for the nismo one which is just plain insanity. I know one of the head parts guy at our local dealership and he said theres not much of a difference in the OEM and NISMO other than price. As far as dropping the tranny goes you really dont need much other than some jackstands and a tranny jack or even a beefy floor jack. Your gonna end up paying a shop and A$$load to fix that problem and do a clutch unless you got friends that own shops. Anyways good luck whatever route you take.

timlush
04-13-2007, 07:50 PM
Alright, sounds good. Is a lightened flywheel worth it or should I get the old one resurfaced.

By the way, by mentioning pivot ball I'm talking about this (not mine):
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9593/getimage2yt1.jpg
Apparently from what I've been reading they are known to snap. Nismo makes a good one for $35 but I think an OEM one is like $10.


Would this be the same part for an SR or KA?

IDriveFords
04-14-2007, 08:11 AM
I think they're different but don't hold me to that. I got mine by giving them the nismo part# which can be sourced from heavy throttles website and they crossed it to a factory part#. I actually had the part # written down and I can check for it when I get home later but I think I lost it. :-/

ImporteXBUILT
06-20-2007, 12:15 AM
I really don't wanna bump this old ass thread, but I figured it's better than starting a new one. Same shit happened to me, clutch fork dropped. Dropped the tranny and saw that the rounder part of the clutch pivot ball wasn't on there. just a regular looking bolt, so I'm assuming mine snapped. My question is: when I get a new one and replace it, how do I attach the clutch fork to the clutch fork pivot ball? Does the rounder ball part of the clutch fork pivot ball slide into the retaining clip? I haven't seen one that was operational before, so I'm clueless. Any help is greatly appreciated and once again, sorry for bumping this old thread.

Danny

ImporteXBUILT
06-20-2007, 02:25 AM
Okay, nevermind I figured it out on my own. That piece in the place where the pivot is supposed to sit is the broken part from the old one lol.