My S13 Build Progress - 56K Warning

[jrmiller84]

:rawk:Build Index:rawk:
Current Total Project Cost (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1317794#post1317794)
Work Day 1, 2, 3, and 4 - 3/13/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)
Work Day 5 - 3/14/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1293084#post1293084)
Work Day 6 - 3/15/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1294672#post1294672)
Work Day 7 - 3/16/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1295956#post1295956)
Work Day 8 - 3/17/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1297130#post1297130)
Work Day 9 - 3/18/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1297913#post1297913)
Work Day 10 - 3/19/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1299432#post1299432)
Work Day 10 Continued - 3/19/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1299468#post1299468)
Work Day 11 - 3/20/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1301177#post1301177)
Work Day 12 - 3/21/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1302664#post1302664)
Work Day 13 - 3/26/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1308582#post1308582)
Work Day 13 Continued - 3/27/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1309975#post1309975)
Work Day 14 - 3/31/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1316425#post1316425)
Work Day 15 - 4/2/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1317471#post1317471)
Work Day 16 - 4/5/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1322327#post1322327)
Work Day 17 - 4/6/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1325214#post1325214)
Work Day 18 - 4/7/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1326257#post1326257)
Work Day 19 - 4/8/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1327150#post1327150)
Work Day 20 - 4/11/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1331856#post1331856)
Work Day 21 - 4/14/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1335820#post1335820)
Work Day 22 - 4/16/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1337375#post1337375)
Work Day 23 - 4/19/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1343030#post1343030)
Work Day 24 - 4/20/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1344310#post1344310)
Work Day 25 - 4/21/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1344986#post1344986)
Work Day 26 - 4/23/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1347286#post1347286)
Work Day 27 - 4/25/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1350855#post1350855)
Work Day 28 - 4/27/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1353311#post1353311)
Work Day 29 - 4/29/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1355061#post1355061)
In Conclusion - 5/11/2007 (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1371690#post1371690)So I finally broke down after much debating with myself and just got a storage unit to do the swap instead of paying a shop to do it for me. I'd like to keep updating this as I do more to it each day. I have more pictures located here (http://s78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/) and I will be keeping them up to date on there as well.

I started this past Saturday so here's the progress up until today...

Day 1 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)
Got all of my tools moved into the storage unit, laid down some painters plastic to try to keep the liquids off of the floor, and moved the car in there. Also bought an engine hoist since I didn't know how long I'd need it. Brought the laptop with the FSM on it. Yeah, I know, she needs paint.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0158.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0166.jpg

I also talked to the guys at Enjuku about the parts I'll need and got them "preordered" I guess you could say. I'll be picking up all of the parts and engine (SR Blacktop) on the 16th. Needless to say I'm in debt now :bigok:

I started by removing the bumper, fender wells, hood, and draining the fluids.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0188.jpg
Then I started removing some of the larger parts: radiator, battery, condensor, intake, airbox, etc etc.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0168.jpg

After that it was dark and the storage unit doesn't have any electricity so I had to stop. :fawk2:

Day 2 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I started by removing the wiring harness which turned out to be a bitch. So many of the plugs were greased over and just plain old that they didn't want to disconnect. I didn't want to clip them because I wasn't sure what I would need so I just had to use a pair of pliers and some elbow grease on some of them.

Once that was done I removed some of the components that were attached to the motor to make way for the engine hoist. Removed the alternator, compressor, distributor, and some other stuff I can't remember right now.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0184.jpg

Day 3 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I got out there late from work on day 3 so there's not much worth noting except I removed the entire exhaust system from the downpipe back. I also removed the shifter from the tranny.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0186.jpg

Day 4 (Today) [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)
Today I was able to get the driveshaft disconnected, tranny mount disconnected, and assemble my new engine hoist :bigok: After that I bolted her up and yanked the KA out. It was surprisingly easier that I thought it would be, came right out.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0189.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0190.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0194.jpg

Victory!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0197.jpg

Tomorrow I'll be cleaning her up and primering her for paint!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0198.jpg

[Shift_Drift_S13]

THAT"S MY CAR.. a year and a 1/2 ago! only mine's an auto... :'( Pix of my work on my car domain. Good luck, definately a fun car to work on... i think any way, i LOVE My S13, i'll never get rid of it.... long as i have a choice that is. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2519819 <there's my baby

[C. Senor]

haha "victory"...glad to see your takin your time on it...not rushing, learning...most importantly doing it yourself...+1 for you....pretty good quality pics.

[mr_240sx]

good luck on your car dude....make sure to keep us updated!

[jrmiller84]

Thanks everyone, I'm glad I went this route instead of relying on someone else to install it.

[Farzam]

Once you get out of debt you should consider going premie.

Good job taking MY advice on the storage unit DIY...maybe you should give me that motor.

All jokes aside, congrats on getting yourself in a big mess, and good luck remembering what to do.

[s13gold]

nice setup with everything: taking your time is a plus.
props for a DIY

[Oubre]

Cant wait for updates, Props for DIYer

[jrmiller84]

Once you get out of debt you should consider going premie.

Good job taking MY advice on the storage unit DIY...maybe you should give me that motor.

All jokes aside, congrats on getting yourself in a big mess, and good luck remembering what to do.

Haha, I most certainly would give it to you if I had the time to ship it. During the hours they pick up, I am either at school or at work so it's kind of a time crunch.

[Farzam]

I can wait ^.^ I'm just messing with you.

[s14kouki44]

damn...how much was that storage unit cuz all the ones around me wouldn't let me store a car unless it was ablle to be started...i was gonna part out an s14

[jrmiller84]

damn...how much was that storage unit cuz all the ones around me wouldn't let me store a car unless it was ablle to be started...i was gonna part out an s14

They didn't say anything to me about it, all they needed was proof of insurance and a copy of my registration. They've seen me working on it and haven't said anything. I should be done in a couple of weeks though so it really shouldn't be that big of a deal...

Watch them say something tomorrow now that the motor is out.:keke:

Oh, and it's $100 a month for the unit. It's the 2nd largest one they have.

[Dutchmalmiss]

Dang that KA looks so untouched. Everytime I see a write-up it makes me wanna do a swap myself.

[jrmiller84]

Day 5 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

So today I got bogged down installing the hitch on my daily driver so I can rent a trailer to pick up the motorset and parts. Behold, the blue bomber...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0159.jpg
Conan O'Brien doesn't have anything on this. (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1867441307)

Bought that car for $1000 from my last job when they shut down, hell of a deal even though I hate Fords.

Anyways, back on topic. I really only have like 2 and a half hours of daylight after I get off of work at 5pm during the week so there wasn't much else I could do. I did start cleaning the engine bay as well as the storage unit itself though. After pulling the motor, a lot of fluids drained out on the floor beneath the car so I got all of that up and placed some new plastic under the car.

Then I started going at it with degreaser. I got some of the bay cleaned, but there are still some things attached to the firewall that I need to remove before I can thoroughly clean it.

I also bought paint for the engine bay. Initially I was just going to paint it red like the rest of the car. Then today I saw someone on here with a red 240 and a black engine bay and it looked really nice so I bought some black paint today instead. I'll just use the red I already bought to accent some of the other engine components.

I forgot to take my camera today but I'll get pictures tomorrow. There wasn't really much progress to take pictures of honestly unless you like pictures of dirt :naughty: To satiate my picture quota for the day, here's a Dr. Claw-esque picture of me in research mode, enjoy! :loco:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Miscellanious/DSCN0201.jpg

[civilized_drifter]

nice build up.....btw i like college humor 2

[nisans13turbo]

Day 5

So today I got bogged down installing the hitch on my daily driver so I can rent a trailer to pick up the motorset and parts. Behold, the blue bomber...

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0159.jpg
Conan O'Brien doesn't have anything on this. (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1867441307)

Bought that car for $1000 from my last job when they shut down, hell of a deal even though I hate Fords.

Anyways, back on topic. I really only have like 2 and a half hours of daylight after I get off of work at 5pm during the week so there wasn't much else I could do. I did start cleaning the engine bay as well as the storage unit itself though. After pulling the motor, a lot of fluids drained out on the floor beneath the car so I got all of that up and placed some new plastic under the car.

Then I started going at it with degreaser. I got some of the bay cleaned, but there are still some things attached to the firewall that I need to remove before I can thoroughly clean it.

I also bought paint for the engine bay. Initially I was just going to paint it red like the rest of the car. Then today I saw someone on here with a red 240 and a black engine bay and it looked really nice so I bought some black paint today instead. I'll just use the red I already bought to accent some of the other engine components.

I forgot to take my camera today but I'll get pictures tomorrow. There wasn't really much progress to take pictures of honestly unless you like pictures of dirt :naughty: To satiate my picture quota for the day, here's a Dr. Claw-esque picture of me in research mode, enjoy! :loco:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Miscellanious/DSCN0201.jpg

wow, 3 monitors!

[jrmiller84]

wow, 3 monitors!

It's rediculous, really.

[koukimonster139]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0158.jpg


aww thats such a cute pic ! i love how its all neat and laid out

seriously you are Hcore doing a swap in a storage unit with no electricity.

[jrmiller84]

haha, yes I know. When I really want to work on it, I have an inverter I plug up to the blue bomber and a drop light I hook up to that, works out well just wish I didn't have to move the light around under the car and shit.

Plus I have to leave the car running so I don't kill the battery which sucks.:fawk2:

[derek_s13]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0166.jpg

^^ that's the cleanest SOHC i've ever seen.

you're a fuckin trooper for doing that shit in a storage container. i don't have that kind
of motivation. keep it up man.

[jrmiller84]

haha, thanks. I'm surprised you guys think it's clean, I thought it was horribly dirty. Maybe because I was fixated on the bottom end which was completely covered in oil that had leaked over the years, but the top end looks great! haha :bigok:

BTW, anyone going to the Gator Nationals around here this weekend? I don't think anyone is really from this area so probably not. I won't be there, but I'm doing the swap like... a mile or so from the strip.

[BustedS13]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0158.jpg


aww thats such a cute pic ! i love how its all neat and laid out

:rofl: i was thinking the exact same thing, it looks like a movie set, not something in the real world :D

[CKAMC]

wow, 3 monitors!

some people take their post whoring to extremes.....

[koukimonster139]

^ rofl.

hipocracy at its best

[jrmiller84]

Day 6 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I got quite a bit done and I remembered my camera :bigok: I started by finally taking out the rest of the power steering lines. I was having a hard time before because so much stuff was in the way but I was finally able to get in there... literally in there sitting. After that I removed some of the other stuff in the bay like the resevoir and wiper motor. I also disattached the passenger side fuse box and hung it over the side of the fender to get it out of the way.

I then used a pair of pliers to pull all of the plastic ziptie straps that hold the cables to the body. I bought new ones so I wanted to replace all of them. I plan on bundling all of the wires extremely nice also so that I can minimize their visibility in the bay as much as possible. I have to find somewhere that sells nice long runs of the thermal wrap, anyone know where? I bought some from auto zone and some other places, but none of them are more than a few inches long. I'd like to have a spool of it if possible, that'd be really nice. Anyways...

After that it was on with the degreaser, a paint scraper, and three rolls of shop towels.

BEFORE

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0202.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0203.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0208.jpg

AFTER

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0210.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0212.jpg

The dark area near the driver side firewall is actually where the paint has come off, not dirt. But that doesn't mean I'm finished cleaning it. I plan on getting a few cheap toothbrushes tomorrow and trying to get in some of the small spots. Also, I wasn't able to clean the area where the battery was very well. The battery tray area is partially corroded and hard to clean. Anyone know how to get rid of that thing? It seems to be welded down but it would be awesome to just get it out of there. Here's what it looks like currently:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0214.jpg

I also have a question for everyone, is the canister needed after the swap? I'm 99.9% sure it's not but I don't know what to do with this metal line here that was running to it:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0205.jpg

It looks like it runs to the back of the car, I guess to the fuel pump maybe? It was connected to the canister, I took it off today so I could clean that area. What should I do with that tube?




Other than that, tomorrow is the big day. I got the trailer today and I'll be leaving early tomorrow for Orlando to pick up the motor and parts. I'll have pictures of everything around noon tomorrow so check back. I'll be prepping the motor for installation tomorrow night as well as finishing cleaning the bay and primering it for paint on Saturday (hopefully I'll get that much done tomorrow evening :x: )

On top of all of this, I also became a premie today :bigok: Figured I would be doing a lot more contributing to Zilvia from now on out so that was a good place to start contributing.



EDIT: I meant to ask this, how did everyone get their motor mounts off? I assume with just a wrench but mine do NOT want to come off. I'm worried I'm going to screw the nuts up. Do you get new nuts with new motor mounts typically?

[civilized_drifter]

clean ass engine bay

[d*star180]

very nice progress so far man.
Keep us updated till the end.

[jrmiller84]

very nice progress so far man.
Keep us updated till the end.

Thanks a lot, I most definately will.



And to the person who just neg. repped me without posting, being a premie has already paid off on the first day. I know who you are. :fawk2:

[koukimonster139]

yo, the long tube to the back of the car is the fuel tank ventilation im almost positive.

as far as the battery tray, drill out the spot welds with either a regular drill bit or buy a spot weld drill bit to make it a little easier.

you may need an impact for those mounts.

[jrmiller84]

Hmmm, so I'm going to want to keep the canister then to facilitate that? I'll have to hide it somewhere then, hah. Trying to get as much out of the bay as possible.

Drilling the welds out might not be a bad idea, I will already have to in order to cut a hole for the intercooler piping. I'll check tomorrow to see exactly where the welds are.

I tried a breaker bar on the mounts but you can't get it in there quite straight so it doesn't work. The bolts area kind of inset within that brace.

EDIT: Just found my answer pertaining to that vacuum line thanks to Russ. The answer is here for reference later if anyone needs it:

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=61741&highlight=canister

[Vatche]

i see trillian there on the far right monitor, good choice, the canister is not needed, the hard line i think is just left disconnect on my car, i dont remember
the battery tray is removable i know people have done it before look it up.

good luck with everything.

[jrmiller84]

i see trillian there on the far right monitor, good choice, the canister is not needed, the hard line i think is just left disconnect on my car, i dont remember
the battery tray is removable i know people have done it before look it up.

good luck with everything.

Thanks a lot, I'm glad I already disconnected it under the passenger side then and left it atmospheric. Less crap to install later :bigok:

Trillians awesome, its a good way to hide that you're on AIM at work when you're supposed to be using MSN, haha :keke:

[initial_drifter]

You should relocate your battery to the trunk after
That is if you already hadn't thought of that

Looks good so far :)

[phreze]

It's rediculous, really.

Yeah it its just get one that is 3x the size. Keep up the build progress though!

[jrmiller84]

You should relocate your battery to the trunk after
That is if you already hadn't thought of that

Looks good so far :)


Already on it :bigok: I plan on either buying this one (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1200A&N=115&autoview=sku) or just getting the parts at the part store. I saw that they sell the boxes at WalMart and pretty much everything you need so maybe I'll just price it there and compare. Only problem is the lengths they sell of cable are kind of short. I think 51" is as long as it gets, which I'm not too sure will make it all the way back there. I'll measure tomorrow.

Thanks for the compliments everyone! Oh, and thanks for that Koukimonster!

[drew935]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0158.jpg


I like how there's a plastic tarp laid down on the ground to keep it clean. That's Uber JDM thinking on your part. Props for doing it in a storage as well. :bigok:

[Duzzes_Wild]

i've never thought about doing my stuff in a storage unit, hmmm

[MELLO*SOS]

Awesome thread dude.

Good luck and keep the updates coming!

[_shift240]

Looks great so far, I never even considered working out of a storage unit to do work. Living in townhouses, the neighbors do not appreciate people who work on their own cars, plus the lack of garage doesn't help.

Also, in your comparision, you'll more then likely find that it is cheaper to just buy your own pieces and reroute the battery to the back rather then buying a kit, plus you have the option of getting exactly what you want, as opposed to whatever the kit is set up with. Just my .02 cents though.

Very clean though, I look forward to keeping up with your progress, congrats!

[Jason240sx]

great thread keep us posted

[jrmiller84]

Day 7 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

So today I drove to Orlando to get the motorset. This is the first time I have ever towed something and it's just my luck there would be torrential downpours on the way there. Then on the way back it was stop and go from the Florida Turnpike to Ocala due to the Gator Nationals. :fawk2: I'm exhausted after the driving so I probably won't be doing any work today.

Sadly they didn't have all of the parts in stock so they'll be here in a week or two. Here's what I was able to pick up today:


Visteon Radiator w/ dual fans attached
HKS SSQV Bov
Intake Cone w/ MAF adapter
Greddy Profec B-spec II
Heater Hoses
Red Samco Radiator Hoses
Belt kit
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Fuel filter, oil filter, and oil
AIV plug
Entire SR20DET Blacktop motorset


I'm missing quite a few things, but that's alright. It gives me more time to clean the engine bay as well as the engine itself. Ray said that the Visteon radiator is nicer than the Koyo, has anyone used it? He said they use it in their shop cars. Picture time :hsdance:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0220.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0223.jpg


I think I may go pick up the KA wiring harness and start on that tonight. Something less stressful. I may post my results online for you guys to double check for me. :bigok:

[koukimonster139]

awesome man

that rad is rad i wish my koyo came with the fan bracket thing

[Jonnie Fraz]

For your battery cables you can go to a boat supply and buy very nice battery cable in almost any color, they should also have all the cable ends that you would need.

[jrmiller84]

Day 8 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today was my first full day with the SR and I got quite a bit done. Took off a lot of things I knew I wasn't going to need like the AC Compressor and its mounting bracket (both heavy!). If anyone is interested in the compressor, PM me. I can't vouch for if it works but it looks like it's in good condition. I have posted it in the for sale section (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=137441) as well.

Back on topic.

I replaced the thermostat just to be safe. It actually looked like it was in good condition, but now it's in excellent condition.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0237.jpg

I took off the metal intake tube that is attached to the turbo so I could check for shaftplay. Thank [insert deity] there was none.

I removed a bunch of cut tubes that were still attached to it to clean it up. They left the radiator tubing half cut on the engine as well as the fuel lines and many others. I also removed that hideous clutch fan. For some reason it did not want to come off and I had to use a hammer to get the remaining metal spindle off that the fan attaches to.

I also found some things I wanted to ask you guys about.

Is this an AC line? It seems to run from the back of the motor but I can't be certain since the intake mani is in the way.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0238.jpg


Am I missing a vacuum tube flange here?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0232.jpg

Is this the oil pressure sensor connection? If so should I use the KA one or is this one fine?
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0234.jpg



But don't stop reading yet, I'm here to deliver awesome today. If any of you looked at the pictures of the SR you may have noticed how horrifying the valve cover looked. The people who pulled it wrote all over it with marker and there were numerous imperfections. Since blacktops aren't naturally blessed with the good looks of that red valve cover, I wanted to try my hardest to make it look even better than the redtops :fawkd:

So before I left today, I disconnected the spark plugs and removed the cover to take home with me.

Here it is after I cleaned it at home. That's right, after I cleaned it. Still looks like ass.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0243.jpg


So I broke out the sand paper and started going at it. I got pretty far but I couldn't quite get the dirt/imperfections out of the letters. Here it is after I scuffed it up, note the still dirty letters.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0244.jpg

Since I wasn't satisfied, I busted out my trusty dremel and went at it. After that the letters looked pristine. So I taped all of the breather valves up and put tape over the letters. I then cut the tape so that it only covered the letters on the valve cover. After that I sprayed it down with glossy black engine paint.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0249.jpg

Looks awesome, but wait, it get's better.

Here it is after I removed all of the tape.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0251.jpg

I can't believe how awesome it looks. I was worried that the spray paint would look like crap and be tacky but it's actually the opposite. It's extremely smooth and I can't see any imperfections. The sanding must have gone a long way towards helping that.

Now I have to find a way to clean up the plastic spark plug cover. I think I may do the same thing to it assuming paint will stick to it. I'm sure if I scuff it up it should be fine.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0252.jpg

More work and updates tomorrow!

[ecuastyle84]

paint looks really good...nice job on the valve cover...cant wait to see more pics 2morrow

[fromxtor]

this thread is full of win.

[sepulchral]

you can use the factory tubing from the SOHC to fabricate perfectly fitting rad hoses, just look at the way the bends have to be and you'll figure it out

[Ninjabread]

Awesome build thread. Makes me think about next week because i'm pulling my motor too!.... but the ka is going back in :P

Good luck!

[jrmiller84]

you can use the factory tubing from the SOHC to fabricate perfectly fitting rad hoses, just look at the way the bends have to be and you'll figure it out

I actually bought red Samco hoses to match the color to the body as it will stay red after paint later.

If you're talking about this hose:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0238.jpg
It's not the rad hose, the radiator hose goes below that one.

[sepulchral]

It's not the rad hose, the radiator hose goes below that one.

hahaha

i know i know :bigok:


did you cut yourself? i see blood

[jrmiller84]

Nah, that's liquid gasket I used when I put the new thermostat in. Believe me, blood has definitely been a part of this endeavor though.

[Mo_Jo]

The hose is for the IAC, and will need to go on to the cold pipe.

[ROTTEN EGG]

I used a flat chissel to tap the battery tray off but i believe you can only reach the sides with the it. I cut that whole rusty area out. no i have a big hole =/ but no rust! and for the letters on the valve cover, just use some fine grit sand paper, makes it look new if you havent already done that. pictures dont show enough. good work man keep us posted!

[koukimonster139]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0244.jpg

haha fuckin right
get it hot tonight!

[jrmiller84]

haha fuckin right
get it hot tonight!

haha, yeah I was going to comment on that but I knew someone else would catch it, haha.

It's nice having a roommate who works at a pizza place. :bigok:

[jrmiller84]

Day 9 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I finally took care of the task I'd been putting off for a few days, painting the engine bay.

Let me start off by saying that I by no means intend this car to be a show car. A lot of people argue that you should pay money and get this done at a shop so that it looks immaculate instead of doing it yourself, but for my purposes that isn't necessary. I would rather spend that money on parts to get this thing running.

With that being said, I am very impressed with the way it turned out.

I started by making sure I had all of the grease out of the bay where I was going to be painting. I then scuffed all of the paint up with some sandpaper. Then came the tedious part, covering everything with tape. I was hesitant to remove the brake lines so I just covered them. If you wanted to go the extra mile, I would recommend taking them out but I made out just fine going around them.

Then I covered the bay in primer.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0259.jpg

I let that dry for a few minutes (it dries really fast) and then sanded some of the areas down where I noticed any imperfections.

Then it was time to spray it down with red paint. The first thing I noticed was that the red shown on the can of paint was slightly misrepresented. It was a shade lighter than the bottle led me to believe, no big deal though. As long as it's all one uniform color, I'm down with that.

It took two cans to finish the entire bay because as it would dry you could see places where it needed a second coat. Here is what it looked like before I primered it so you can get a feel for how much better it looks.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0256.jpg


And here it is after I painted it, let it dry, and removed the tape.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0263.jpg

It looks a whole hell of a lot better. There are some imperfections but I'm not worried about it. There are some places where it needed quite a bit of paint and it started to run a little bit, but they are few and far between. Overall, I'm very happy with the way it turned out. :rawk:

Maybe tonight I'll take care of that wiring I've been meaning to do :rolleyes:

[JewGal]

Phew!
For a second, I thought your were painting your bay flat/satin black. Looks good. Red s hot!

[civilized_drifter]

very nice keep up the good work

[jrmiller84]

Phew!
For a second, I thought your were painting your bay flat/satin black. Looks good. Red s hot!

You know, I actually thought about painting it glossy black. In fact, I think somewhere on here I even said I was going to. I thought about it again though it just seemed like a bad idea.

[Disturbed]

nice job so far dude. impressive dedication. more patience than i have, thats for sure.

edit - thanks for the neg rep whomever you are. real mature.

[BlazedGlory]

Phew!
For a second, I thought your were painting your bay flat/satin black. Looks good. Red s hot!

Heh, I was actually excited for a second when I thought your bay was satin black. It looked very nice imo. I have a white car, and although a very clean, white engine bay would look very nice, it does not stay that way. I plan on painting my stripped interior satin black as well as the engine bay (I think) when I get a chance... Not that it doesn't look nice. Keep up the good work!

[SC_S13]

nice engine bay work, imperfections wont be noticeable when your sweet SR is in :bigok: big props for DIY.

[ROTTEN EGG]

so what did you do about the rusty battery tray?

[jrmiller84]

Thanks everyone!

so what did you do about the rusty battery tray?

I started to try to drill it out but it turns out drills pull more power than my little inverter can handle :fawk2: So I just used sand paper to get all of the nasty corrosion out and it turned out not so bad. Would have been nice to have it as smooth as the other parts of the car, but that's alright.

It will be hard to notice when the intercooler piping is running through it and the fuse box is back in place.

[240trainee]

Looks good man, I would have gone black (I hate red cars), but looks like you have given yourself a good base to start with.

[jrmiller84]

Looks good man, I would have gone black (I hate red cars), but looks like you have given yourself a good base to start with.

Yeah, I used to feel the same way about red cars. Since it was red when I got it I wanted to keep it that way.

If you give it a nice candyapple-esque paint job they can look really nice. :bigok: I don't want it that dark of a red though.

[Gavster]

Looking good man, keep up the good work, and props on a clean project so far!

[Gilboyto]

^^^What he said! I wonder how much a storage space costs here to do work on my car.

[jrmiller84]

Day 10 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I am working towards a semi-detailed guide with pictures to assist people in wiring harness modification but it may take me a little while. Look what the douche-bags before me left... :fawk2:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0279.jpg

I will get this done tonight... those fucks...

There are at least 10 half-assed electrical tape connections there...

Check back in an hour or so.

[jrmiller84]

Day 10 - Continued [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

So it didn't take me very long to realize that it was a hopeless cause to attempt a repair of these wires. I don't even trust that they're hooked up right to begin with. I'll be giving Enjuku a call to see if I can get another harness or something.

It's a wonder this car was even running to begin with...

Random wires are split into multiple other wires that are then bridged to other wires and joined with even more wires. It's a clusterfuck to say the least. I refuse to believe this is how Nissan intended this to be.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0281.jpg
WTF? :loco:

[95zilvia]

Buy a new harness.
The motorset didn't come with a harness?

[sepulchral]

you shoudl have fixed it permenantly +1 for solder ($3.00 for iron at walmart)

[jrmiller84]

you shoudl have fixed it permenantly +1 for solder ($3.00 for iron at walmart)

What are you talking about? That's what I was doing to it. :loco: I was trying to fix the previous owners mistakes but it looks unrepairable. I was using solder, liquid electrical tape, and shrink wrap to fix all of the crap they did(the electrical tape that you see in the picture). But then I came across all of the wires in the picture and realized it was probably never going to run no matter what I did.

Buy a new harness.
The motorset didn't come with a harness?

I did get a harness with the motorset and this is it. Apparently the previous owner was a tard and screwed it up.

I'll hopefully be sending it back for another harness.

[Zero-Offset]

good lookin work you got going there!!

i would have kept the engine bay black, but other than that, cant wait to see the blacktop in there!

[95zilvia]

It shouldn't be tooooo hard to figure out the mess.
Just be sure to keep it neat.
Solder and heat shrink.

You're gonna have to swap out that little plug as well.

[jrmiller84]

Well the thing is I can't even decipher which connections are the factory connections so that I can reconnect them correctly. I could take pictures and post them here to get peoples opinions but that would be hell to explain to people.

[atutt]

this thread kicks ass... it'll be a really good build thread once it's completed...

[jrmiller84]

Day 11 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I talked to Ray at Enjuku today about the wiring harness. I'm sending him this picture that I'm posting to you guys.

I started to try to describe in words how the wires are "organized" but I soon realized that it was close to impossible to describe. Then I started to draw a schematic of sorts of how they were organized but I quickly became confused as multiple wires split into others wires which then combined into other trees of wires... it's rediculous. So what I decided to do was seperate the bad wires from the ones that have not been touched, label the "junctions" or connection points, and see if anyone has any advice or can decipher them on here. Here are some things to note about the picture:


The wires all start as either black or gray and they come in three sizes (I can't estimate a gauge wire so we'll just say thick, medium, and thin).
Junction 3 has a thick black wire that shoots off to the right and connects to junction 5, along with 3 other wires from other junctions :loco:
Junction 5 has 4 different wires coming from 4 different places
If a wire in question is not shown here, it is fine. I put that binder inbetween the bad wires and good ones as to seperate them.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/ClusterFuck2.jpg

I also looked through the FSM today to see if there was any wire guide that would help, but no dice. There were some things that were close but nothing dealing in wire colors and whatnot.


If you guys can make anything of this, it would be awesome. I'm constantly researching it as we speak. Also, like I said, I'm sending this to Enjuku tomorrow so we'll see what they say in conjunction with what you guys think and see if we can as a group get this resolved. It very well may be that the wires are perfectly fine, but how can you trust something that psychotic looking and unorganized? Especially when the junctions were covered ONLY in electrical tape.

Thanks for everyones help and motivation so far! :bigok:

[ROTTEN EGG]

whats enjuku saying about a replacement harness?

[jrmiller84]

Nothing so far, I will ask for one if I can't get some kind of resolution for the wiring from them.

They run for $400 and that's a hell of a price to pay for something that's not your fault. Not to mention I still have other parts to purchase to get this thing working and it would suck to have this be the final piece.

[ROTTEN EGG]

they should give you a replacement. it would be stupid not to considering you are a returning customer. I bought a sr harness from a local shop and didnt inspect it enough, somewhat similar problem and they said i tampered with it and didnt give me anything. Watch out for that.

[jrmiller84]

Yeah, I stopped as soon as I realized that it was like that. Wish I would have earlier or I wouldn't have touched anything. We'll see what happens.

[luckyslide16]

This thread is FTW! Keep us updated!

[ROTTEN EGG]

even if they say that you tampered with it, there isnt a reason you would do that anyway. Now you have to change your avatar to a blacktop. Good luck!

[jrmiller84]

even if they say that you tampered with it, there isnt a reason you would do that anyway. Now you have to change your avatar to a blacktop. Good luck!

They all seemed to be nice guys so I don't see why it would be that big of a deal.

Avatar done :bigok:

[BlazedGlory]

I agree that they should... I ordered a FMIC kit from them a while back that was represented as coming with nice silicone elbows. The kit came with some shotty cast elbows instead, and Enjuku wouldn't even make that small issue right with me. It was enough to lose me as a customer (and I used to buy pretty much everything from them, for I live in GA, so ground shipping would get here quick =)...

Good Luck...

[jrmiller84]

Day 12 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Since I'm pretty much just waiting on parts now, I'm running out of things to do. One thing I hadn't done yet was install the Walbro Fuel Pump.

I've read threads of people who think they can install the SR without upgrading the fuel pump. I'm sure you probably can if you want a shitty install that won't allow any upgrades. If you're doing the swap, fork over the $100 and do it for shits sakes and save yourself some trouble. :fawk2:

Since this was a fairly easy install I decided to take pictures in the process for anyone who needs help. Let's do this.


First thing to do is remove the small gray piece of metal that covers the plug for the fuel pump. A phillips head screw driver does the trick here. After that disconnect the plug that connects to the pump. Should look like this.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0287.jpg


Using a 10mm socket, remove the large gray metal cover that is right next to the one we just took off. This will reveal another metal cover that is directly on top of the fuel tank. Disconnect the two fuel lines that are connected to the cover but REMEMBER HOW THEY ARE CONNECTED! If you don't, you will be reversing the flow of the fuel if you hook them up incorrectly.

After that is done, using an 8mm socket remove the bolts that hold down that metal plate. This is it after the bolts have been removed.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0289.jpg


Then pull the plate straight up, do not pull it out at an angle. The fuel level sensor sticks out as well as the sock on the fuel pump and they will get caught if they don't come up straight. Here it is removed from the fuel tank.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0290.jpg


After that I covered up the hole to the fuel tank so that nothing would fall in. Look at how dirty that sock is, wonder when it was last changed? :loco:


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0291.jpg


You are now ready to take the fuel pump off of the fixture that hangs into the tank. I twisted the pump and it came right off. Then remove the two wires that are connected to the pump as well as the fuel line that connects to the top of the pump. Here is the fixture with the pump removed.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0292.jpg


Open that beautiful new pump and install the sock and rubber boot that goes on top of that.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0295.jpg


Put the new fuel line onto the pump fixture and slide the new clamps onto it while your at it. The line may need to be cut since it's pretty long. I just pushed it up further so that there was no chance of it coming off, ever. You'll notice that the rubber boot on the bottom of the fuel pump fits perfectly with the pump fixtures bottom. Put the pump on the fixture, it should fit perfectly and attach the fuel line to the top of the pump and tighten down the clamps. Should look like this now:


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0298.jpg


Next thing to do is take care of the wires. I'm not sure if my situation is the same as everyone else's as I already had crimped connections that could be someone else's work but it should be very similar at least.

I noticed that my wires had a bad section in them where it looked like the shielding was coming off. Luckily, the new pump's wires were nice and long so I trimmed the old wires on the fixture slightly past that bad section. I then trimmed the new pumps wires so that there wouldn't be a bunch of excess wiring hanging in the tank. Here it is with the connections completed.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0301.jpg


One thing I always noticed about my car was that when I put gas in it the smell of gas would be almost overwhelming. When I was taking the pump out I noticed a rubber gasket that circled the hole to the tank to seal it. Only problem was that the gasket was slightly too big for the groove it was made to fit in. I also noticed that because of that, it had a kink in it where it had been pushed down to try to make itself fit, creating a small gap in the seal. I decided to attempt to fix this with some liquid gasket. I circled the hole to the fuel tank with liquid gasket making sure to go in front of the holes where the bolts go so as to make a perfect seal. Just wanted to mention this in case someone else is having the same problem. We'll see if this actually fixes it when I get the car running. :keke:


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0304.jpg


Next thing to do is put the 8mm bolts back in once the pump is submerged in the tank. Then you can recover it with the metal cover we took off earlier. Use the 10mm bolts to secure it back to the car. Now reconnect the plug and put the cover back over the plug using a phillips head screwed driver to secure the two screws. Done!

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0305.jpg


Of course you could just read the directions. :keke:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

In other news, I also switched the speedo sensor in the SR Tranny today. The SR speedo was missing the connector on the wire and was badly damaged. Look at how bad it is cracked.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0308.jpg


Luckily, we have to use the KA sensor anyways. Here is the KA sensor since I had a hard time finding a picture of it online, hopefully this will help someone.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0307.jpg


It's a direct swap. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the one bolt and it comes right out. Now the tranny is good to go as soon as I get my new flywheel and clutch. :bigok:


This may be the last update for a while since I don't have anything else to do in the mean time. From now on the days will be organized as work days so as to keep the days organized.

Hopefully I can get back to work on the harness soon. :hsdance:

[wannabe_drifter]

Good work, looking at this makes me want to do the same to my car... hopefully this spring !!

[staygold24]

Nice work. Yay for another good well done 240 in georgia. Havent seen many.

Good write ups as well. My hose to my iacv is kind of crimped should I make it flow better it doesnt affect my idle at all. Just a little bent.

[jrmiller84]

Nice work. Yay for another good well done 240 in georgia. Havent seen many.

Close, I'm actually in Florida. Gator country ;)

Good write ups as well. My hose to my iacv is kind of crimped should I make it flow better it doesnt affect my idle at all. Just a little bent.

Thanks! Well, better flow will always naturally be better but I suppose it depends on how nit-picky you are since it's not particularly affecting performance.

[statik]

That part of the harness looks fine, believe it or not all of those splices come from the factory, most are sensor grounds, you can usually tell if its a factory splice by those small metal crimps they use, and usually the blue electrical tape, at least for an older nissan harness. It looks like you are trying to do everything yourself, which is great, but the harness can be daunting for a first timer, if you have any questions feel free to PM me.

[jrmiller84]

That part of the harness looks fine, believe it or not all of those splices come from the factory, most are sensor grounds, you can usually tell if its a factory splice by those small metal crimps they use, and usually the blue electrical tape, at least for an older nissan harness. It looks like you are trying to do everything yourself, which is great, but the harness can be daunting for a first timer, if you have any questions feel free to PM me.


Really? I did notice that those crimps weren't your typical impatient high school kid crimps. They are really small, I almost don't see how anyone would apply them without some kind of machine. There was blue tape on quite a bit of it.

It would make sense that they are grounds sense most of them all run to a thick black wire and most of them were covered up with blue electrical tape unlike the obvious n00b crappy crimp connections closer to the harness connector itself.

Hmmm...

I haven't heard anything from Enjuku yet, so perhaps what I will do is wait and see what happens with them and if they're not sure what's up with it I'll just solder those connections to make them solid and cover them up myself to make it nice and professional.

I'm really surprised that this could actually be how it came from the factory.

Thanks for the input statik!

[statik]

Really? I did notice that those crimps weren't your typical impatient high school kid crimps. They are really small, I almost don't see how anyone would apply them without some kind of machine. There was blue tape on quite a bit of it.

It would make sense that they are grounds sense most of them all run to a thick black wire and most of them were covered up with blue electrical tape unlike the obvious n00b crappy crimp connections closer to the harness connector itself.

Hmmm...

I haven't heard anything from Enjuku yet, so perhaps what I will do is wait and see what happens with them and if they're not sure what's up with it I'll just solder those connections to make them solid and cover them up myself to make it nice and professional.

I'm really surprised that this could actually be how it came from the factory.

Actually those crimps are considered to be just as good, if not better than solder, there are quite a few debates on crimp vs solder which we won't get into this thread, but as you can tell from the factory nissan chose a GOOD crimp connection, not the average crap from radio shack, over soldering. Honestly I wouldnt bother soldering those, those crimps are not going anywhere, just tape them back up. The rest of the harness is up to you but the cost of a good crimper is far more than a decent iron, and i've never heard from anyone with a failed solder joint (done properly) on a harness yet.

[240trainee]

It may be a good connection, but some of the shit Nissan did is weird as hell.

Like, I took apart the body harness through the fender (was going to do an oem re-wire). All these taped connections IN the harness, wires doubling back and shit, kinda weird.

[jrmiller84]

^^^ That's what was throwing me off, the tape and the doubling back of wires. I didn't think they would do it that way but it looks like I may be wrong


Actually those crimps are considered to be just as good, if not better than solder, there are quite a few debates on crimp vs solder which we won't get into this thread, but as you can tell from the factory nissan chose a GOOD crimp connection, not the average crap from radio shack, over soldering. Honestly I wouldnt bother soldering those, those crimps are not going anywhere, just tape them back up. The rest of the harness is up to you but the cost of a good crimper is far more than a decent iron, and i've never heard from anyone with a failed solder joint (done properly) on a harness yet.

Agreed, the crimps didn't look like they were going anywhere. I'm mostly worried about covering them up properly. The electrical tape was starting to get sticky and moving around quite a bit so I definitely want to make sure it was done correctly.

Liquid electrical tape should do the job, that stuff is awesome when let dry long enough. I don't want to have to cut the wire so that I can put rubber heat shrink wrap on it but I may so that there's absolutely no chance of it coming off.

[statik]

I don't want to have to cut the wire so that I can put rubber heat shrink wrap on it but I may so that there's absolutely no chance of it coming off.

Yeah even fresh electrical tape is better than the leaving the old stuff, but keep in mind once the harnes is done and you wrap/loom that section and the ecu is in, the harness will rarely if ever move.

[prang11]

This thread is great, you are motivating me to actually get to work on my shitter. Keep up the great work.

[swift_style]

nice work man. I love how you're a student, plus working, and you manage somehow to do a swap. Props to you for motivating me to finish up my swap!!

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 13 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

It's been a few days since I last updated so I wanted to give at least a verbal explanation of the work I've done thus far. Everything I've done lately hasn't been very visual so pictures are few and far between. Later tonight when I get home from work I plan on posting some pictures to accompany my posting, so check back later!

I realized that while I have the motor out it would be a great time to start routing the wiring/tubing for the boost controller. I mounted the solenoid on the driver side near where the new power steering reservoir will go. It may have to move slightly as it will probably start cramping the reservoir's style. I then hooked the wiring up to it and ran it through the hole in the engine bay to the right of clutch master cylinder, up through the hole in the fender, and into the cabin. Now here's the cool part.

I don't typically like the places we have to chose from to put our boost controllers. It's always either the steering column, center console near the radio, in the glove box, or a few other lame places. I wanted to do something a little different. With that in mind, I ripped out my headliner the other day. I intend to mount the boost controller within the hump in the headliner near the rear view mirror. It will be angled at about a 30 degree angle facing downward so I can see it. It should look awesome. I have already routed the cables to that area, just have to get a slightly longer vacuum tube to go from the FPR to the controller. Might get some nice red tubes to dress up the bay some while I'm at it :bigok: I also created a fiberglass bezel(painted black) for it to mount into so it doesn't look like I just cut the headliner :down:


Other than that, I recently removed the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel to ready myself for the parts that SHOULD be in this week (I hope). I also went ahead and connected the new belts to the water pump and power steering pump. One thing that broke when I removed the KA was my clutch slave cylinder. When I took the old one off of the KA, the piston just fell out of the front... not good. I was looking at buying a NISMO slave cylinder, but that was before I realized they sell OEM ones at the parts store for under $30. I just couldn't justify the $200 price tag of the NISMO slave cylinder when I would be perfectly fine running an OEM one. Maybe I'll buy it sometime in the future when trees are genetically engineered to grow money :rawk:

I've also been working on my wiring harness here and there. I've almost completed it. I will be ordering some more flex tubing for it to replace the old tubing as well as some tubing T-connectors online from CableOrganizer.com. The T-connectors and red wiring loom should make the wiring harness look extra professional. Check them out here (http://cableorganizer.com/wire-loom/colored.html), some cool shit indeed.

This weekend I bought a few things online for the car:
-Dual Fan Thermostat Kit
-MR Test Pipe
-Clutch Fork Pivot
-K&N Breather Valve

Small purchase but needed. This coming Friday I hope to purchase a Circuit Sports down pipe (the one with the turbo outlet and flat bottom for clearance) and the HKS Hi-Power exhaust. That should complete my setup! We'll see how long it takes to get them though... :bow:

Check back later for pictures!

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 13 - Continued [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I said I would post pictures last night but I was pretty exhausted(:faint:) and decided to get some sleep and didn't post the pictures, yeah I know, what a jerk.

I thought I had taken pictures of my boost controller bezel, but apparently I didn't. This is a good thing though as it needs to be sanded again with some fine grit sandpaper and repainted. You can see too many of the ruts made from the rougher sandpaper.

I did get some parts in yesterday though, low and behold:
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0313.jpg


Lightened flywheel, new clutch, and new pressure plate. Giggidy Giggidy! Those will be going on Wednesday. Then I will be able to bolt the tranny up to the motor finally and await my motor mounts. Here's the old clutch and flywheel on the SR. They look pretty nasty, glad I bought new (and lighter!) parts.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0310.jpg

I also noticed they gave me hex bolts to tighten them down with, anyone used these before? I'm not sure if the old clutch bolts fit, if so I'm going to just use them instead. I'll have to check and see if they fit Wednesday. I have no idea how I'm going to tighten these to spec with my torque wrench.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0314.jpg

Also, look at that nasty, rusted turbo outlet two pictures above :barf:

So to kill two birds with one stone, last night I purchased

http://storesense.megawebservers.com/stores/HS318/catalog/csdownpipe_full.jpg

I needed to buy a downpipe anyways and I wanted to replace that turbo outlet because

a. It looked like shit
b. The AIV tube is rusted onto the outlet

So this was the perfect product for the job. Not to mention it is slightly flat on the bottom to help with ground clearance, an extra plus when I get around to lowering the car.

Yesterday I had to go out and buy a set of bolt pullers to get my motor mounts off of the engine crossmember. I've been struggling with them for a while. My wrenches could never get a grip on them, not sure why. I know I was using the correct size, 14mm, but it would just spin around the nut if I put any pressure on it. It seemed like the metal the nut was made out of was either naturally super soft or maybe already rounded out some. I'll be pulling those shits out Wednesday as well.

Maybe I'll get more goodies in the mail today :rawk:

[OBEEWON]

Much respect for doing it yourself. Nice downpipe too.

[S14DB]

Nothing so far, I will ask for one if I can't get some kind of resolution for the wiring from them.

They run for $400 and that's a hell of a price to pay for something that's not your fault. Not to mention I still have other parts to purchase to get this thing working and it would suck to have this be the final piece.
Heh, I had to wait almost 6 months for my harness work to be done and a new ECU. I notice they don't do harness work after that....

[jrmiller84]

Heh, I had to wait almost 6 months for my harness work to be done and a new ECU. I notice they don't do harness work after that....

Yeah, thank god all of the wiring I was worried about was actually factory so I just put some liquid electrical tape on it to seal the wires and then taped it all back up.

I still have a little work to do on it, but I think it's only extending the MAF wires.

[mr_240sx]

wow that downpipe looks good.....

keep us updated.... your build looks good so far!

[s13gold]

how much are you paying for a space like that?

a lease? or a month by month ?

[jrmiller84]

wow that downpipe looks good.....

keep us updated.... your build looks good so far!

Will do! The updates should be getting better starting Friday as most of the parts SHOULD (hopefully) be here.

how much are you paying for a space like that?

a lease? or a month by month ?

Month by Month and it's about $105 per month.

Rates could be very different elsewhere since this is a college town. These places go like hot cakes in between semesters and I'm sure that affects the price quite a bit.

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

buildup so far looks great! hope everything goes well with the harness!

[scribbles]

In other news, I also switched the speedo sensor in the SR Tranny today. The SR speedo was missing the connector on the wire and was badly damaged. Look at how bad it is cracked.


http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0308.jpg




The plug on mine had been damaged, so I needed to replace it, be thankfull yours is in as few pieces as it looks. Mine leterally shattered inside the port in the transmission. Millions of shards of aluminum and a speed sensor that wouldn't come out. It only took me maybe 3 hours to remove and replace.

[jrmiller84]

The plug on mine had been damaged, so I needed to replace it, be thankfull yours is in as few pieces as it looks. Mine leterally shattered inside the port in the transmission. Millions of shards of aluminum and a speed sensor that wouldn't come out. It only took me maybe 3 hours to remove and replace.

Damn, that sounds like it sucked. Didn't even think about that.

I think it took me maybe... 5 minutes :rawk:

[jrmiller84]

Update

I got quite a few of the parts yesterday, enough to get the motor installed this weekend. Anyone know if you can put the power steering lines on after the motor is in? I'm pretty sure you can. I didn't take any pictures of the parts at my place so here's what I got in yesterday off of the manufactures website:

Cusco Motor Mounts
http://storesense.megawebservers.com/stores/HS318/catalog/1061565869_Picture_cuscomounts.jpg

Hybrid Development Intercooler
http://storesense.megawebservers.com/stores/HS318/catalog/hybrid-s.jpg

They are both excellent pieces of hardware. They're really gonna look nice on that new car ;) Or at least the intercooler is :bigok: The motor mounts are so much nicer than what was on there, which was to be expected but damn they're solid.

I also got in my boost and oil pressure gauges as well as the a-pillar pod for them. I went ahead and attached those to the a-pillar last night since I had the pillar at home.

This weekend I will be dropping the motor in. It will make it harder for me to get my new oil pan in when I get it(assuming I dont get it before the weekend) but getting that motor in will give me a lot to do until then. I can start having some real fun :rawk:

Tried to take the pilot bushing out yesterday on my lunch break but the damn thing looks like its never been changed (and probably hasn't been). It wouldn't budge for anything and with that, I couldn't get my new clutch in. I will be getting a puller for it today or tomorrow on my lunch break.

Oh, before I forget. I noticed on the SR transmission there is a vacuum line that is directly on top of the transmission. It is near the shifter and will be unreachable once the motor is in. Anyone know what this is for? Should I plug it? Did some searching through Zilvia and the FSM and couldn't find anything on it at all.

Check back this weekend for some nice updates.

[statik]

Anyone know if you can put the power steering lines on after the motor is in?

This should be easier with the lower oil pan off, if I remember correctly its whats mostly in the way for the front ps lines.

Oh, before I forget. I noticed on the SR transmission there is a vacuum line that is directly on top of the transmission. It is near the shifter and will be unreachable once the motor is in. Anyone know what this is for? Should I plug it? Did some searching through Zilvia and the FSM and couldn't find anything on it at all.

its breather, similar to the breather on the differential, don't plug it, just leave it

[jrmiller84]

This should be easier with the lower oil pan off, if I remember correctly its whats mostly in the way for the front ps lines.

Well that works well since those are two parts I'm waiting on :bigok: I'll just replace them at the same time.

its breather, similar to the breather on the differential, don't plug it, just leave it

I had a feeling it was since I had never read about it anywhere online after all my searching. It had a girly pinkish vacuum tube hooked up to it, I'll be glad to dispose of that :ghey:

Thanks Statik, always a big help!

[statik]

Well that works well since those are two parts I'm waiting on :bigok: I'll just replace them at the same time.



I had a feeling it was since I had never read about it anywhere online after all my searching. It had a girly pinkish vacuum tube hooked up to it, I'll be glad to dispose of that :ghey:

Thanks Statik, always a big help!

I woudln't ditch the tube just in case it decides to spit something out (like if you overfill with fluid) though i've never seen it happen, but replacing the pink tube can't hurt haha (no one will see it but now we all know). Everyone starts somewhere, I remember asking really noobish questions that would get me uber neg-repped now, so I try to help whenever I can :) Keep up the good work

[jrmiller84]

I woudln't ditch the tube just in case it decides to spit something out (like if you overfill with fluid) though i've never seen it happen, but replacing the pink tube can't hurt haha (no one will see it but now we all know). Everyone starts somewhere, I remember asking really noobish questions that would get me uber neg-repped now, so I try to help whenever I can :) Keep up the good work

Exactly, sometimes the answers are extremely hard to come by even with searching. Hell, I've been researching this entire project for the past 2-3 years now and I still have questions. I'm a kinesthetic learner though, so I had to get in there and just start taking things apart.

I will say that the pictures thread in chat is an excellent way to determine how a lot of things are to be used. I find myself searching through there quite often just to see how things should be connected.

[jrmiller84]

Update

Tomorrow I will start doing a majority of the work to the new motor. I have the motor mounts and will be mounting the SR tomorrow. I also got my intercooler, gauges, and a plethora of other parts that will almost complete the swap.

Here are some pictures of the parts I've gotten in.

BA Motor mounts
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0320.jpg

Clutch Fork Pivot - For sale btw($30). (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=138848) If no one claims it before tomorrow morning I'm installing it :bigok: Don't necessarily need it for my swap since I didn't upgrade the slave cylinder and my pivot is in good shape.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0322-1.jpg

Hybrid Development Intercooler
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0321.jpg



I got my BOV flange welded onto the hotpipe today but the guy did a kind of shady job.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0324.jpg

I was worried about the seal so when I got home I closed all the ends of the hotpipe and filled it with water. Sure enough, one tiny area of the weld was dripping very slightly. Do you guys think JB Weld will hold a hole of that size under boost? It's literally like a pinhole in size.

Awesome updates tomorrow after 9pm EST.

[Ninjabread]

I'd say go back and have the guy redo it. I can do better and I have almost no welding experience.

[MURPHY]

wow how much you pay to get that welded for? looks horrible lol

your making great progress man. keep it up

[jrmiller84]

Only $20, once again you get what you pay for. This is the first time I've ever had anything welded so I wasn't sure how much it would cost. I'm going to grind down all of the excess solder (I guess that's what they use??) so I can see exactly where the holes are and take it to someone else. I don't trust him to do it again.

[Ninjabread]

I'd go get my money back at least ;)

[420sx]

those welds look like ass! go hit that dude in the face, take his tig and do it urself. jeez what the f... im sorry u got janked. go get it redone jb weld... NOT ;)

[jrmiller84]

Yeah, I'm gonna have it redone Monday so it'll be ready to go when I get my exhaust :bigok:


Oh, and by the way, I bought a HKS Hi-Power exhaust yesterday. Should be awesome :bigok:

http://storesense.megawebservers.com/stores/HS318/catalog/hkshippowers13_full.jpg

http://www.eastcoastdrift.com/teddy/kurant/s13hkshipower/hkshippowermufflers13_full.jpg

[prang11]

Bummer about the weld. My bro just had his flange welded on and the guy did a pretty shitty job. His first flange was free and it looked perfect, second flange is payed for and looks like crap. That just dosnt make sense.

Keep up the good work on the build.

[surge s14]

awesome job dude cant wait to see it done :)

[adamantium]

Nice work so far. Im new to the nissan scene after working with hondas for a few years, and was looking into a project exactly like yours. If you dont mind me asking how much is this diy project running you so far, not including the stock car to begin with.

[jrmiller84]

Nice work so far. Im new to the nissan scene after working with hondas for a few years, and was looking into a project exactly like yours. If you dont mind me asking how much is this diy project running you so far, not including the stock car to begin with.


It's running over $7000 right now including the motorset and all parts. This doesn't include all of the tools I've had to purchase/rent.



Check back in about 30 minutes, I'll have a short update of my progress today. :bigok:

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 14 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I got out a few hours later than I wanted to today so I wasn't able to get the motor in yet. I am green for getting it in tomorrow though. :naughtyd:

Today I had to install the clutch and get the transmission onto the engine, which was a bitch I might add.

I rented a pilot bushing remover to get the old pilot bushing out today. The old one was pretty worn. Here's the old one with the new one in the shaft next to it.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0327.jpg

After that I had to use the clutch alignment tool to get the clutch in place and the put the pressure plate on.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0328.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0329.jpg


This was my first time switching a clutch and it was kind of nerve racking. If I don't get it right, I'll have to pull the engine again... shitty.

Next thing I did was install a new throwout bearing.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0330.jpg

After that I started mounting the transmission on the SR. Doing this by yourself is extremely hard. I was worried because the transmission wasn't attaching flush with the motor. I could tell the shaft was in the crankshaft because I could spin the transmission, but it just wasn't mating with the engine. So I started putting the bolts in and it pulled it flush with the motor. After that it was dark so I had to stop. Tomorrow all I have to do is attach the starter and hoist it into the engine bay. :bigok:

[Chez]

Sweet build so far. ive been watching this thread for a while now and for someone who seems not know have done anything like this before you are getting the hang of it really quick. a few small tips may help you out. that part about mating the transmission and the motor. that is normal. the best way to do it is to use a couple of blocks of wood and a small jack. i assume you had the motor hanging from the hoist so you just get the motor level and really low to the ground. then you set the tranny on the blocks so the tranny is at the same height as the motor and then use the jack to the back end of the tranny at the right height so the shaft is at the proper angle. also make sure you have atleast two other people there with you tomorrow so you can have someone working the hoist and someone helping you guide the motor and tranny into the engine bay. congrats on the great clean job you are doing. keep with it i cant wait to see the finished product.

side note: that $7000 price tag you were talking about. how much of that money was for the motor swap and how much was for everything else. not including tools.

[jrmiller84]

That's actually what I did. I was able to get it flush with a couple 2x4's and a jack. Should be good to go tomorrow. I've got to make sure they're all torqued to spec though.


The motor was $2460 including tax, I got it from Enjuku racing. The prices are on their website. They are good guys and that's not from just me, that's the general consensus from most of Zilvia. :bigok:

[Chez]

good to know. check every single bolt twice before you put that motor in. nice work. cant wait to see it done.

[1Via!]

Trannys are always a bitch when youre on your own. 2x4s for blocking and levering always help.

Good solid build.

[Ninjabread]

^^ Trannys are a bitch even when you have a friend and a lift.

Was my first time though.

[sr240dett3]

pilot bushing are a paint to remove with out the tool, i tired packing grease into it and forcing it out with the alignment tool... NOT WORKING!!!!

Mine was in good shape, so i left it in there

[Ninjabread]

lol tommy. get premie!

[Roc]

Bummer about the weld. My bro just had his flange welded on and the guy did a pretty shitty job. His first flange was free and it looked perfect, second flange is payed for and looks like crap. That just dosnt make sense.

Keep up the good work on the build.

its easy for all the good welders. the crappy ones charge because they suck at life and and its hard for them.

[MURPHY]

pilot bushing are a paint to remove with out the tool, i tired packing grease into it and forcing it out with the alignment tool... NOT WORKING!!!!

Mine was in good shape, so i left it in there
wtf. why you here too lol

and yea trans are easy after you've done way to many of them :-/

but there is always that one pain in the ass one. last week i had one that the gears inside were perfect and i pulled it all apart and was so messed up that i had to actually just throw it in the dumpster lol

[Bigballin]

this thread bitches!!

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 15 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I finally got the motor in. I've been reading, saving, and planning for almost three years so it's definitely a monumental day.

I started by torquing the tranny bolts down since I didn't yesterday. Then I installed the heater hoses because I knew I would barely have any room between the motor and the firewall. After that it was all cherry picker work.

It took me a while to get the motor into place. This was mostly because I put the motor mounts on the car crossmember instead of on the motor which made it near impossible to get into place. Once I changed that, it went right in. Here are some pictures I took during the process.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0331.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0333.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0334.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0335.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0336.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0337.jpg

"The Eagle has landed."
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0338.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0339.jpg

As you can see by the last couple of pictures, I started test fitting many of my new toys :rawk: I had a little trouble mounting the intercooler. It seemed to want to mount where the horn is mounted but the bolt that connects to the new bracket gets in the way. Anyone hooked up a hybrid development intercooler before? Didn't come with any instructions and their website sucks. Tomorrow I'll be starting on some more of the fun stuff. Getting the wiring harness back in, intercooler, some of the interior mods finished.

As long as I receive all of my parts this week, I may have it running next weekend. Although, I do not expect it to start on the first try.

Trying not to get my hopes up. :bow:

[C. Senor]

damn its looking real good, and you're doing all this by yourself...you're brave.

[bardabe]

damn its looking real good, and you're doing all this by yourself...you're brave.
in a storage Hardfuckincore!

[JDMClifford]

cool, looks like you learned alot, it looks great.

[sepulchral]

not hooking up mafs?

[yaba94070]

defently farther than i got(i couldn't even got the motor mounts undone some dumb ass over tourqed every screw and it didn't get better after 2 years)...
i should of got a storage cell..
man i didn;t think of that, im gonna go get one. Nice computer set up. Never saw a tripple before.
and i am dam impressed on the job you did on the valvue covr. Man that thing looks new. Its time well spent. The car looks great and major props.. your almost there man.. now the hard part hooking everything back up...
lol thats the part that fucked me up

[jrmiller84]

i couldn't even got the motor mounts undone

I had to buy a kit to get mine out seeing as the nuts on mine were rounded off. Came right out after that.


not hooking up mafs?

Yeah, I decided to just kinda "wing it" with my air input. :keke:

jk :bigok: I just put it on to give myself a look at how close I am to being done. I actually didn't have the mafs with me at the time.

Today I have to go fix the tranny mount, hook up the driveshaft, and whatever else I can get done. Should be fun!

[wannabe_drifter]

Looking great so far

I'm in the same situation as you were a while ago i guess, I am a student, I'm too poor and I dream of doing the swap by myself when I get some money...
Your a good inspiration !

By the way you said it cost you 7000 $$ I thought it was less expensive than that did you put alot of good parts on it or is it the "normal" cost of the swap???

[yaba94070]

hmm a kit...
thats cool im not so lucky i need ot go buy an impact gun or a tourqu wrench cause o already broke 2 socket wrenchs so i gave up after that cause they weren't craftsman or snap on so i didn;t have warently on them...
i did break a 1 1/2 foot crastfman socket wrench then i trully gave up my project till i can get it in a shop and work on it in there...

[jrmiller84]

Looking great so far

I'm in the same situation as you were a while ago i guess, I am a student, I'm too poor and I dream of doing the swap by myself when I get some money...
Your a good inspiration !

By the way you said it cost you 7000 $$ I thought it was less expensive than that did you put alot of good parts on it or is it the "normal" cost of the swap???


Thanks!

To give everyone a better idea of my costs here's a breakdown. I won't go into the specifics of which parts are on the first purchase order unless there is an overwhelming demand for the info (it's a lot of shit to write up).

$2460 - SR Blacktop Motorset
$3800 - First Parts Purchase Order
-A fuckton and a half of parts
$267 - Second Parts Purchase Order
-Test pipe
-Dual fan thermostat kit
-K&N Breather Filter
-Nismo clutch fork pivot
$320 - Third Parts Purchase Order
-Greddy Downpipe (the circuit Sports DP was backordered :down:)
-Greddy Turbo Outlet
$664 - Fourth Parts Purchase Order
-HKS Hi-Power Exhaust system
------------------------------------------------------
$7511 - Grand Total +-



This does not include the cost of the storage unit, supplies (rags, degreaser, paint, etc), or alcohol. With that in mind, it's actually nearing the $8000 mark. I tried to spare no expense on the quality of parts so you definately could save money where I didn't but I didn't want this to be a shitty build.

"Do it right or don't do it at all" has kind of been my mantra for this experience.

[jrmiller84]

hmm a kit...
thats cool im not so lucky i need ot go buy an impact gun or a tourqu wrench cause o already broke 2 socket wrenchs so i gave up after that cause they weren't craftsman or snap on so i didn;t have warently on them...
i did break a 1 1/2 foot crastfman socket wrench then i trully gave up my project till i can get it in a shop and work on it in there...


The kit I bought was under $20. This is a similar kit (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Tools+%26+Equipment&pid=00952165000&vertical=AUTO&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes) to the one I bought from Sears. They do have a smaller kit than this $50 one.

Then you just use a wrench and it grips into the bolts and turns them. The ones on that page don't allow for a wrench to be used, but they do have the kit in the store that allows for their use.

[MELLO*SOS]

Awesome.. You finally got the motor in, congratulations. I'm looking forward to that moment also!

[d*star180]

Congratulations are in order.
Awesome job so far.

[Ninjabread]

Way to jack his thread...

[xblack240x]

Great thread, good job, been watching since the beginning, great work, especially DIY and on your own... Can't wait till I have the money and I'll do a thread like this except with an RB26 =) Congrats on finally getting the engine in (LOL "the eagle has landed," made me laugh)

[jrmiller84]

Update

One word: Bling.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0342.jpg

The turbo outlet is balleristic looking. Really solid as well. Both the downpipe and turbo outlet are Greddy instead of Circuit Sports like I ordered, sadly it was back-ordered so I opted to get this instead.

Last night I only got three hours of sleep so tonight I'm trying to relax and watch the Gator game :bigok: Although, if we win the championship I may have to hit up downtown Gainesville :bigok: I AM going to finish the wiring harness tonight though, I've been slacking on it but now that the engine is in I've gotta get it done. If things go my way(parts get here before Saturday), I could have the car together this weekend. :bigok:

Wish me luck!

http://www.conservativethinking.com/files/florida-gators.gif

[Oubre]

Really Good stuff so far, the basketball game was exciting, for the first 5 minutes... (See the guy get packed by the 7ft Freshman?)

[jrmiller84]

Update

Tuesdays I have class directly after work until almost 10pm at night so I won't be doing anything today. I did get a chance to go out there on my lunch break though and was able to get my wiring harness about 75% of the way hooked up. I'm going to have to redo a little bit of it because I have a few wires in weird places right now. I need some pictures of stock SR's wiring scheme so I can get a feel for how they are oriented. Perhaps it's even in the FSM.

Took this picture while I was there earlier. She's startin' to look mean. :rawk:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0343.jpg

[sepulchral]

time to relocate that wiper reservoir for piping


edit: or remove it entirely!

[bardabe]

Update

Tuesdays I have class directly after work until almost 10pm at night so I won't be doing anything today. I did get a chance to go out there on my lunch break though and was able to get my wiring harness about 75% of the way hooked up. I'm going to have to redo a little bit of it because I have a few wires in weird places right now. I need some pictures of stock SR's wiring scheme so I can get a feel for how they are oriented. Perhaps it's even in the FSM.

Took this picture while I was there earlier. She's startin' to look mean. :rawk:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0343.jpg
damn dude your car loos really nice, if u need pointers ont eh harness, wiring, timing, etc etc, just pm me or Email me. I'll be glad to help your car is coming out very nice. (ive owned several SR's):w00t:

[ManoNegra]

I need some pictures of stock SR's wiring scheme so I can get a feel for how they are oriented. Perhaps it's even in the FSM.

Yes, FSM has oem wiring scheme. Doing swap without consulting FSM...tsk, tsk.. . jp
Cool build man, she's coming along nicely.

[jrmiller84]

Yes, FSM has oem wiring scheme. Doing swap without consulting FSM...tsk, tsk.. . jp
Cool build man, she's coming along nicely.


Oh believe me, I've consulted it on almost every aspect of the swap. I just haven't looked that particular part up yet today :)

If it wasn't for the FSM, my tranny would still be in shambles. :keke:

[steve shadows]

damn its looking real good, and you're doing all this by yourself...you're brave.

its not that hard....

clean job man

[kouki-gymkhana]

time to relocate that wiper reservoir for piping


edit: or remove it entirely!

No need to relocate the reservoir, actually. I turned mine 90 degrees and I was able to cram my cold pipe in there after I cut a hole in the bottom of the battery tray. It's tight but it works. I've got the same IC too, but mine feeds an RB25, lol.

[hatchbaak]

Looks good. :boink:

[byebye_sti]

looking good:naughtyd: can't wait to see it finished!

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 16 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I didn't plan on working on the car today but when I got home I had five boxes waiting for me :D Now I have all of the parts I need to finish! In those boxes were my exhaust, dual fan thermostat relay, oil pan, test pipe, and DOHC power steering lines. For some reason I assumed they would be used (the power steering lines) but they are brand new, very nice.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0344.jpg

The exhaust is so much larger than I thought it would be. It's rediculous. I tried to coax one of our cats into crawling in it but that didn't work... :down:

The quality of the exhaust is superb, you truely do get what you pay for.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0346.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0347.jpg

Oh, and of course, stickers are the REAL reason we pay $600 for an exhaust :keke:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0348.jpg



Once I saw all of the parts, I had to go work on the car. It's all up to me at this point, I'm not waiting on anything else. So I headed out to the storage unit and started busting ass.

The last time I was there, I wasn't able to hook up the driveshaft because the tranny crossmember wasn't lining up accurately with it's holes. So I had to losen the motor mounts and move the motor back some to get it into place.

When I did this, I noticed a small (yet an incredible pain in the ass) problem. I followed the advice of everyone and hooked up the heater hoses before installing the engine, but when I looked at them tonight they were crazy kinked. So kinked in fact I was worried they were going to break :bite:

So while I had the motor mounts loose, I pulled the motor back even more to give myself about 4-5 inches of room and I started reconnecting them. I noticed that the heater hoses I got didn't exactly line up so I wound up having to cut one of them so it didn't kink once the motor was pushed back into place. Once I got that done, I put the motor back in place, bolted up the tranny crossmember and starting connecting the driveshaft.

The driveshaft was a little bit of a pain to get together, at least for a first-timer. Holding that thing above my head and trying to connect the bolts was killing my arms until I had a revelation... use a jack. :doh: After that it was smooth sailing.

With all of the large stuff in place (aside from my exhaust) I should have a lot of light work ahead of me. This means I am green for this weekend :bigok: :bigok: :bigok:

[SC_S13]

plumbing is the bane of any installation haha

[ctm_motortrends]

Great job man. I DIDN'T MEAN TO STEAL YOUR POST. IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD. GOOD LUCK CTM_MOTORTRENDS

[monkeyrps13]

Whats the size of storage? Is it big enough for you? I am planning to do a swap in a storage, too....

[fromxtor]

^^ Oh you mean like this?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/fromxtor/000_0436.jpg
He did this all by himself, your doing an excellant job.

[jrmiller84]

^^ Oh you mean like this?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y81/fromxtor/000_0436.jpg
He did this all by himself, your doing an excellant job.

Awesome! If only our kitten wasn't a little bastard... :keke:

plumbing is the bane of any installation haha

You're telling me. I have to figure out how to cut a hole in metal without electricity. :tweak:


Whats the size of storage? Is it big enough for you? I am planning to do a swap in a storage, too....

10x20. I would recommend a 20x20 if you can handle it. 10x20 is enough but it's tight sometimes.

[byebye_sti]

looking goooddd man! keep up the good work!

[drewc87]

what did you end up doing with the harness? what diagram did u use to wire it?

[jrmiller84]

what did you end up doing with the harness? what diagram did u use to wire it?

I wound up recovering the wires I thought were bad since they appear to be like that from the factory.

I used a combination of guides to do my harness. Mainly I used the one found at http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET_Swap_Engine_Harness_Wiring_Guide_SR_SR20_t _26.html since it is nicely detailed. After I finished, I then double checked it against the Heavy Throttle guide (http://srownersclub.com/faq/index.asp#harness) to make sure everything matched up (it did). I feel pretty confident about my harness after that.

We'll see though, gotta stay optimistic. :)

[Z_Spool]

Abosolutely incredible job. Makes me wish I could start cranking on mine right now. I'm definately keeping the storage unit thing in mind though. Again, fantastic work... can't wait to see it done... and perhaps see a fire-up vid?

[jrmiller84]

Abosolutely incredible job. Makes me wish I could start cranking on mine right now. I'm definately keeping the storage unit thing in mind though. Again, fantastic work... can't wait to see it done... and perhaps see a fire-up vid?

I've been considering it, although the quality won't be the best. It should(:x: ) be decent enough to show hopefully.

I may not wind up posting it if it's just a video of me cussing because it won't start, haha. I have a feeling that will be the likely scenario since this is my first swap ever.

[jrmiller84]

Update

I went out to work on the car today on my lunch break. Thought I could get a few small things done. I started by attempting to install my new shiney turbo outlet but realized something horrifying... Ok, maybe not horrifying but definitely time consuming and annoying.

The turbo is not attached to the exhaust manifold securely. I can move it back and forth about half a millimeter. Not good. :duh: Guess the idiot before me didn't think it was that important...

I thought I could tighten it while it was still attached but I can't reach half of the bolts as they are between the turbo and the motor itself. Sooo... I guess that means I'll be taking the headers off tonight to get to the turbo instead of installing my exhaust. I hear it's a beast to get the turbo off too. It will probably set me back a few hours.

[Justin Bernstein]

That sucks man...but taking the manifold and turbo off isnt impossible. Youll need plenty of light and patience because those oil lines are an absolute bitch to get to in such a tight space. I would suggest getting the header bolts off before trying for the turbo lines because it may give you some extra space to get your hands in there from under the car.

Good luck bro. Let us know how it turns out.

[jrmiller84]

That was my plan. Luckily I don't have any other accessories installed so pretty much everything is out of the way. Another problem being that the shock tower is pretty close to the turbo so it's hard to get a wrench in there as well.

[Justin Bernstein]

a socket will def fit in there. I def needed a small extention to get the bolts under the manifold tubes, a regular racheting wrench will help also. The manifold will def have more than enough room to come strait out once the lines are disconnected.

[statik]

That was my plan. Luckily I don't have any other accessories installed so pretty much everything is out of the way. Another problem being that the shock tower is pretty close to the turbo so it's hard to get a wrench in there as well.

Removing the turbo is ezmode, esp with no exhaust on, it's annoying with stock banjo lines, but you will be done in no time, the worst line is the water return against the block, i usually remove the manifold bolts, and the water/oil feed, then I just bend the turbo slightly away from the block to get the ratchet back there. The turbo to manifold bolts you just need to get a wrench in at the right angles and it will come off (or in your case, tighten down) in minutes, don't sweat it. Make sure those locking plates are on too!

[jrmiller84]

Removing the turbo is ezmode, esp with no exhaust on, it's annoying with stock banjo lines, but you will be done in no time, the worst line is the water return against the block, i usually remove the manifold bolts, and the water/oil feed, then I just bend the turbo slightly away from the block to get the ratchet back there. The turbo to manifold bolts you just need to get a wrench in at the right angles and it will come off (or in your case, tighten down) in minutes, don't sweat it. Make sure those locking plates are on too!

Hmm, that doesn't sound too bad. I don't think I've seen the locking plates yet so I'll have to keep an eye out. I did see a plate facing the firewall where the turbo and exhaust manifold meet, that's probably it I suppose.

Maybe I will be able to get that exhaust installed after all.

[t67s13]

Car looks good keep it up.

[statik]

Hmm, that doesn't sound too bad. I don't think I've seen the locking plates yet so I'll have to keep an eye out. I did see a plate facing the firewall where the turbo and exhaust manifold meet, that's probably it I suppose.

Maybe I will be able to get that exhaust installed after all.

They look like this

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/engine020.JPG

you should have a pair on the turbo, basically they lay flat over the studs on the turbo side, and then you put the nuts on and bolt the turbo down, the tabs on the plates can be pushed up flush against the nut so it doesn't move, otherwise the nuts tend to back themselves off from vibration

[jrmiller84]

They look like this

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/engine020.JPG

you should have a pair on the turbo, basically they lay flat over the studs on the turbo side, and then you put the nuts on and bolt the turbo down, the tabs on the plates can be pushed up flush against the nut so it doesn't move, otherwise the nuts tend to back themselves off from vibration


Ahh, that makes sense. I wonder if that's why they're loose, could have been. Should be easy to fix with the turbo off. This car better run like a champ when I'm done with it, haha.

I decided earlier this may be an opportune time to install my power steering hoses as well. I'll have the entire turbo and exhaust mani out of the way so it should be a breeze to work near the steering rack.

[trybal]

damn.. i wish i had that kinda money to do things right. I did my entire swap for 1900 bucks including walbro and full exhaust, but it was so half assed, even though it ran!! props on taking your time, the only way to do it imo!!!!

[DUBCITY]

wow.

very impressive considering youre doing this in a storage container or lot.

i need to get me one, apartments suck.
do they care that you work on your car at the storage facility?
how much is it per month?
what are the dimensions of the unit?

edit --- im an idiot. got my qs answered on PG 1. need to start reading from the beginning and not the end.

[trybal]

haha ^^ all questions already answered in this thread buddy.. its a 10x20 and its 100 per month!! read on garth

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 17 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I forgot my camera again today because I'm a dolt, but luckily (for your sake I suppose) there wasn't much to take pictures of. As I was saying earlier today, I had to take the turbo and exhaust mani off because the turbo was moving slightly.

It took me a while to get the rear water banjo bolt off, it's a bitch to get to. Once I finally got it off I started tightening all of the bolts down where the turbo was moving. They were all loose, not one of them was tight like it should be.

The locking plates were in place correctly so he must have not tightened them down to begin with :loco: Regardless, they are tight now. (Thanks for the tips statik)

I then attached my new Greddy turbo elbow to the turbo. I want to warn everyone about this turbo elbow though. While it is a superb part, it has one problem. They don't give you enough room to put one of the bolts through it's hole. I actually had to hammer it into place because it was at an angle and couldn't go through the hole straight. That's not something you typically want to do to brand new car parts...

Tomorrow I will be getting there early in the morning. I want to make serious progress tomorrow. I have been slacking each weekend and not getting there until like 2 or 3 in the afternoon. I still have to figure out how to cut a hole in my battery tray, which I may need to do tomorrow. I might have to go buy a nice cordless drill or something, we'll see. I also still need to get the BOV flange rewelded. I may try to do that this weekend if I can find someone. I'm running low on cash though so it may have to wait until next weekend. :fawk2:

Also, I am going to be retroactively creating a table of contents on my first post of this thread that links to each days work. Maybe it will help some people out.

[sepulchral]

i just got the greddy elbow. i had same problem, im going to use a 8x1.25mm allen head bolt for the top right bolt hole because i found that the hardest one to do anything on

[statik]

glad to hear you get the turbo taken care of and the locking plates are there. I remember the greddy extension being a whore to put on, but its worth the effort, I installed it on the car too. now just NEVER take it off again and always pull the turbo with the extension =]

finish that shit up this weekend

[jrmiller84]

glad to hear you get the turbo taken care of and the locking plates are there. I remember the greddy extension being a whore to put on, but its worth the effort, I installed it on the car too. now just NEVER take it off again and always pull the turbo with the extension =]

finish that shit up this weekend

I'm gonna try my best. I'm worried about the small leak in the hot pipe though. I should be able to get it started at least (I hope).

As soon as I get the power steering, oil pan, exhaust, and turbo hooked up it should be smooth sailing. Although that is a lot of heavy duty stuff to be hooking up. Two days to do all of that should be plenty though. :bigok:

[JDMClifford]

Looking good. This is my baby. Almost done.http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t204/ctm_motortrends/DSC02137.jpg


dude did you paint your shit silve instead of cleaning it? your freze plugs are silver.... hmmm.... i guess thats the easy way out.

[Cybernetik]

Good work James! I call dibs on first ride. Maybe you fixed the gas smell when you replaced the fuel pump. :bigok:

[silviaz]

wow everything seems to be at the right place ;)
good job, keep it up !

[jrmiller84]

Good work James! I call dibs on first ride. Maybe you fixed the gas smell when you replaced the fuel pump. :bigok:

haha, what's goin' on Justin. I think I fixed it, the gasket had a huge gap in it so I filled in the gap with some liquid gasket. It should be completely sealed now.

[derek_s13]

keep the updates comin':aw:

[Jason240sx]

man i always come back to this thread he he he , more updates man

jrmiller84: a couple of questions man , where did you get a power port for the storage? and did you do all the work yourself , pulling out the engine and putting it in and aligning the driveshaft etc or u need friends to give ya a hand?

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 18 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I got out there early like I said and got started. I the oil pan first. Note to everyone who tries this... do it while the engine is out of the car. The last three bolts are hidden by the engine cross member. I had to hoist the engine up about three or four inches to get to them and it was still a pain in the ass.

Once I finally got it out I noticed something... the two oil pans are very different in size and shape. Plus that was on the SR has some kind of device that mounts to the bottom and sits inside of the oil in the pan. Here's a picture of it, anyone know what it is??? I've never seen it on anyone else's car.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0352.jpg

Here you can see the size and shape difference between the two. The one that was in there looks fine though so maybe I'll just use it.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0353.jpg

I also hooked up the exhaust system today from the test pipe back. I was going to connect the down-pipe but I'm going to wait since I don't have the turbo in yet.

I also hooked up the power steering system. I may have to fix one part, I think I may have the lines crossed near the axle. I've got to check out the FSM.

Here are some pictures I took today as an added bonus for you guys :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0349.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0354.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0358.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0357.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0360.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0359.jpg


Anyone know what this thing is? It was mounted near the wiper motor when I had the KAE in. I don't believe it's needed but still.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0355.jpg

[atutt]

could it be the IACV?

[jrmiller84]

I'm not sure, I'm trying to find a KA24E FSM so I can determine what it is.

Oh, and amplifi3d, thanks for the negative rep.

"One word bling? More like gay downpipe and shitty elbow."

Real big of you... Next time post it in the forum so everyone else can see :fawk2:

[georgesal]

Once I finally got it out I noticed something... the two oil pans are very different in size and shape. Plus the one that is on there has some kind of device that mounts to the bottom and sits inside of the oil in the pan. Here's a picture of it, anyone know what it is??? I've never seen it before.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0352.jpg

Here you can see the size and shape difference between the two. The one that was in there looks fine though so maybe I'll just use it.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0353.jpg


Im not quite sure about the thing coming out for you oil pump it looks like another type of pump, same for the pan it loos like the same size fomr the pics but the internals are different. the new one you got is pretty much the stock one the right onw for every sr iv'e worked one . that might be like some type of dry sump set up or something along those lines

[georgesal]

one more thing do you think you can take a pic of what it looks like on the inside of the motor, like fomr the bottom

[jrmiller84]

one more thing do you think you can take a pic of what it looks like on the inside of the motor, like fomr the bottom

I guess so? I mean, all you'll see is the oil pan and cross member?

[djp.]

very nice build

[jrmiller84]

man i always come back to this thread he he he , more updates man

jrmiller84: a couple of questions man , where did you get a power port for the storage? and did you do all the work yourself , pulling out the engine and putting it in and aligning the driveshaft etc or u need friends to give ya a hand?


My unit doesn't have power. Get one that at least has a light socket so you can plug one of those light socket adapters into it and get electricity. It will make your life a lot easier.

I have done all the work myself, I have had no help whatsoever. The only person who has even seen the unit is my fiance (and you guys through pictures) and I'll be damned it she's gonna help me. :keke:

[ctm_motortrends]

Man car is looking better and better everyday. Keep up the good work can't wait to see it done.

[420sx]

wow super clean bay and motor

[sepulchral]

that oil pan is really weird... i think you do have a different form of oil pump system.. did the bottom of the engine still have the factory oil pickup (with the little mesh screen) and everything? your upper oil pan is completely different as well because those two oil pans have different bolt patterns. Pics Pics Pics

[jrmiller84]

that oil pan is really weird... i think you do have a different form of oil pump system.. did the bottom of the engine still have the factory oil pickup (with the little mesh screen) and everything? your upper oil pan is completely different as well because those two oil pans have different bolt patterns. Pics Pics Pics


The motor does have the oil pickup on it. I don't think it's an oil pump because the device is not connected to anything within the motor. It just sits in the bottom of the oil pan. The FSM for the S14 blactop doesn't show this device in the oil pan so I'm kinda lost.

All of the pictures I see for SR oil pans look like the one they sent me so I don't know why the motors oil pan is different.

I'm about to head out there, perhaps I will post pics via my phone so we can all determine a verdict.

[statik]

that thing you found near the wiper motor looks like the pump for the windshield wiper fluid. Your oil pan doesn't look like a stock SR oil pan, the new one you got does, which seems strange. Can you take a pick up the upper oil pan (bolted to the block) specifically where you would mount up the lower pan. The weird thing that bolts inside the oil pan could be some oldschool jdm tyte oil temp sensor or something, shrug

[slow240sx]

I see you replaced the stock vacuume line to the brake master cylinder make shure that line is high quality or it will colapse under the vacuume, ive seen this first hand on a friends car.

[jrmiller84]

that thing you found near the wiper motor looks like the pump for the windshield wiper fluid. Your oil pan doesn't look like a stock SR oil pan, the new one you got does, which seems strange. Can you take a pick up the upper oil pan (bolted to the block) specifically where you would mount up the lower pan. The weird thing that bolts inside the oil pan could be some oldschool jdm tyte oil temp sensor or something, shrug

I'll try to take a pic of it tomorrow on my lunch break. I'm gonna send the pictures to Enjuku tomorrow and maybe they can give me an answer as well. I'm stumped as well. :bash:

I see you replaced the stock vacuume line to the brake master cylinder make shure that line is high quality or it will colapse under the vacuume, ive seen this first hand on a friends car.

That's not staying. I put it there thinking I could use it and then decided it was probably a really bad idea. A new tube will be going on there soon.

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 19 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

Today I spent a lot of time hooking the turbo back up. I had some trouble getting the banjo bolts back in. The steel oil and water supply lines didn't want to line up with the holes on the block. After much frustration I finally got them in there and lined up correctly. I was going to hook the turbo elbow up to the new downpipe but I am going to have to hoist the engine up slightly again to get the oil pan on and I didn't want too much weight hanging on the turbo.

After that I started to run some of the vacuum lines to the various devices that need them. I ran one hose across the front to where the BOV will be, another one to the FPR which also split to the boost gauge and boost controller, and also hooked up the vacuum lines between the wastegate and the boost controller solenoid.

Then I ran the vacuum lines up into the engine bay. Ran one into the headliner where the boost controller will be mounted and one to where the boost gauge is. Tonight I've got to extend some of the wires to the gauges because they're just way too short to make it to the accessory wires under the dash. I've also got to extend the power wire for the dual fan thermostat kit. Took these today as well.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0364.jpg

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0365.jpg

I started hooking up some of the lower wiring harness but then stopped because I don't want those wires to get stretched when I hoist the engine back up again. I also had a hard time determining which ones went to which sensors. Guess I'm kinda waiting on a verdict about that oil pan for quite a bit now. :down:

I guess next weekend will be the big weekend, sadly. That's alright though, I don't want to rush anything.

[GSXRJJordan]

Wow, I saw this when you first started, and hadn't checked it in a while. I'm glad Statik was here, his posts were right on with what I would have said. I actually made a pin-to-pin diagram for the SR harness (which pin on the ECU plug goes through which wire to which sensor/plug), I should have posted it up for you.

The oil pan thing has me stumped. I've NEVER seen a totally square oil pan, or the weird pump-lookin thing that you've got in there.

[jrmiller84]

Wow, I saw this when you first started, and hadn't checked it in a while. I'm glad Statik was here, his posts were right on with what I would have said. I actually made a pin-to-pin diagram for the SR harness (which pin on the ECU plug goes through which wire to which sensor/plug), I should have posted it up for you.

The oil pan thing has me stumped. I've NEVER seen a totally square oil pan, or the weird pump-lookin thing that you've got in there.

Yeah, I sent Ray at Enjuku some pictures of it and they're stumped as well. He said that I might have an S15 upper and lower oil pan that may have come with an oil level sensor. The world may never know.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/aforth/christie/tootsie.jpg

I guess I'll just be putting it back in there in case it's needed somehow. The old oil pan looks fine (no dents) so it should be Ok to use.

Perhaps I'll get a new upper and lower oil pan someday if there's really any benefit.

[ni5mo240]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0355.jpg

that is from your cruise cont, you don't need it if you don't want cruise cont.

[jrmiller84]

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0355.jpg

that is from your cruise cont, you don't need it if you don't want cruise cont.

Awesome, something else I can trash. Never used it.

Planned on getting a quick release anyways since the complex I'm in is kinda shady.

[s13gold]

^^^dont forget a KILL switch.

[jrmiller84]

^^^dont forget a KILL switch.

Yeah, I'm bringing the whole gamut of security features.

Quick release, kill switch, and a two way alarm.

I'm also going to be looking to up my insurance some. Hopefully a company that will insure me for all of the mods if I'm lucky.

[Howard92884]

Very nice and clean build up! I can't wait till I leave this shit hole so I can start on my project. Keep up the good work and keep us posted! :bigok:

[93 240 s13]

i just read from start to finish, very time comsuming ;)

amazing work my friend... inspires me to want to buy alota things for
my SR haha what do you have in mind for suspension? cant wait to see what happens this weekend :) im sure she will purrrr on the first start up....

[racerx1222]

Congrats and good work especially considering you've never done anything at this caliber before. Goes to show how research can help you out a lot and people on Zilvia that are willing to give a helping hand.

[statik]

Yeah, I sent Ray at Enjuku some pictures of it and they're stumped as well. He said that I might have an S15 upper and lower oil pan that may have come with an oil level sensor. ... I guess I'll just be putting it back in there in case it's needed somehow. The old oil pan looks fine (no dents) so it should be Ok to use.

Perhaps I'll get a new upper and lower oil pan someday if there's really any benefit.

That sounds possible heh, as for replacing the upper/lower, I wouldnt bother thinking about it until you have the motor out again, or i would just get a new lower S15 pan (assuming it looks the same and enjuku is correct) if the stupid sensor bothers you. Anyway, just make sure to RTV that sensor in there, wouldn't want any leaks from it.

[jrmiller84]

That sounds possible heh, as for replacing the upper/lower, I wouldnt bother thinking about it until you have the motor out again, or i would just get a new lower S15 pan (assuming it looks the same and enjuku is correct) if the stupid sensor bothers you. Anyway, just make sure to RTV that sensor in there, wouldn't want any leaks from it.

Agreeded, I thought about welding a plate over the hole where the sensor goes when I go to get my hotpipe fixed on Friday :keke: But I don't want to mess that pan up in the odd case I actually need that sensor or if I somehow break the pan and can't find a replacement.

I've been trying to find pictures of the S15 oil pan but I can't seem to find one anywhere.

[statik]

Agreeded, I thought about welding a plate over the hole where the sensor goes when I go to get my hotpipe fixed on Friday :keke: But I don't want to mess that pan up in the odd case I actually need that sensor or if I somehow break the pan and can't find a replacement.

I've been trying to find pictures of the S15 oil pan but I can't seem to find one anywhere.

Actually, that can't be correct

http://www.optionimports.com/grbigoilpanu.html

Same oil pan is sold for all RWD SR20's

EDIT:
maybe greddy is wrong:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11110-SR20T&Category_Code=

Genuine Nissan factory replacement
# Application SR20DET Redtop/Blacktop S13
# SR20DET VVT S14

[jrmiller84]

Actually, that can't be correct

http://www.optionimports.com/grbigoilpanu.html

Same oil pan is sold for all RWD SR20's

Yeah, that's what I was coming up with across the board.

I can probably find a used upper oil pan to fix the issue if something ever happens. Watch my block not be the same then, haha :bigok:

[89dc240]

Yikes, just did a start to finish on this thread. much less time til the end of work. Great job man. THe insurance you want is called Stated Value Insurance. You will likely have to take pics and show reciepts and maybe even have an adjuster come look at it to determine the insured amount. Good luck with everything

[Farzam]

I'm still watching and amazed with how well you did this.

I'm glad you didn't go to a shop.

And i'm glad you're premie.

[Mr. H]

First off, build looks great congrats and good luck on finishing up. Have a couple of questions though. I was looking at your price build up and was wondering what was in the first parts purchase. I was reading through Heavythrottle's what parts are needed and all that was listed was
SR20DET Swap
• SR20DET
• HKS Exhaust
• Front Mount Intercooler
• Intercooler Piping
• Koyo Radiator
• BOV
• Electric Fan
• Clutch
• 3” Down Pipe
• Intake Filter Kit w/ MAF Adapter

Recommended
• High Flow Fuel Pump
• Boost Gauge
• Oil Pressure Gauge
• High Flow Catalytic Converter

was that all that you got or did you buy additional parts? Also how different is the S14 install is it pretty much the same, I have a 1995 and hope to be putting a S14 SR20 in it.

Mr. H
P.S. sorry for the long post

[jrmiller84]

First off, build looks great congrats and good luck on finishing up. Have a couple of questions though. I was looking at your price build up and was wondering what was in the first parts purchase. I was reading through Heavythrottle's what parts are needed and all that was listed was
SR20DET Swap
• SR20DET
• HKS Exhaust
• Front Mount Intercooler
• Intercooler Piping
• Koyo Radiator
• BOV
• Electric Fan
• Clutch
• 3” Down Pipe
• Intake Filter Kit w/ MAF Adapter

Recommended
• High Flow Fuel Pump
• Boost Gauge
• Oil Pressure Gauge
• High Flow Catalytic Converter

was that all that you got or did you buy additional parts? Also how different is the S14 install is it pretty much the same, I have a 1995 and hope to be putting a S14 SR20 in it.

Mr. H
P.S. sorry for the long post


They have a good skeleton for a project but you're going to need more than just that. While those are the main parts of the swap, there's a lot more you're going to want to buy for a decent build. That is unless you want a completely stock build, which will still require quite a few parts. Not to mention the money you're going to spend in supplies and possibly tools, it's not cheap.

Also, the "recommended" parts are things you'll pretty much want to get except for maybe the cat. You can skip the oil pressure gauge, but I wouldn't recommend it.

First Parts Purchase Order
Hybrid Intercooler Kit
HKS SSQV BOV - New Design
AIV Plug
SR20DET Belt Set
CUSCO Motor Mounts
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Wix High Quality Oil Filter
SR-1 Synthetic Motor Oil
OEM S13 DOHC Power Steering Line Kit
Visteon Aluminum Radiator w/ Dual Fans
Samco SR20DET Silicon Radiator Hoses
SPEC Stage 2 Clutch Kit
OEM SR20DET Oil Pan
Walbro GSS341 255 LPH Hi-pressure Fuel Pump
Greddy Profec-B II Electronic Boost Controller
Autometer Dual 2" Gauge Pod
S13 SR20DET Air Intake Pipe, MAF Adapter, & Cone filter
Megan Racing 52mm Boost Gauge
Megan Racing 52mm Oil Pressure Gauge
SPEC Billet Steel Flywheel
Wix Fuel Filter
Heater Hoses



As for everything else, I'm not going to do the research for you. I have never owned an S14 so I have no idea. I would guess it's about the same but you've gotta search. These swaps are very popular, information is extremely abundant. In fact, start here. (http://www.zilvia.net/f//showthread.php?t=62607) It will answer a lot of your questions. You won't survive long on Zilvia without doing your research first.

[Casse]

Very nice write up on how your build is going, I now know how I am going to prep my engine bay before I put my KA in thanks alot.

[Mr. H]

thanks I have been doing lots of searching, both here on zilvia and other sites, I've found lots of stuff on the swap however mostly for the S13 SR going into an S13. My question about the S14 was more directed at those reading this thread who may have done it, not that I don't appreciate your input

[jrmiller84]

Update

Weekdays I don't get much done to the car. Usually the only day I get to work on the car is Wednesday since I don't have class. I can sometimes squeeze in 20 minutes during my lunch break, as is the story today.

Went out there today and finished relocating my battery. I already had the positive wire run from the engine bay to the trunk. I lifted up the carpet and took the fiberboard out to look for a suitable ground. I found a nice sturdy bolt on the passenger side about a foot from where the fuel pump sits in the tank. I made sure that the bolt didn't in fact go into the fuel tank or attach to it in any way.

Once I was sure of that I attached the negative battery cable to it and tightened it down really good. My good friend Justin suggested that I cover the connection to the chassis with silicone to prevent corrosion as well as the possibility of the bolt pulling itself out or touching something in the trunk. With that in mind, I covered the entire bolt as well as a good inch of the cable to make sure that it wasn't going anywhere. After that it was solid as hell, not going anywhere.

I then felt compelled to test the connection and see what would happen. So I hooked the battery up and jumped in the driver seat and turned it to accessory. Low and behold, all of the lights came on, a cd popped out of the cd player (haha), and my windshield wipers started going nuts. I turned all of them off (they just got turned on during the mayhem of the swap) and electrically everything seems to be working as it should. I even heard the Walbro fuel pump turn on for a second which made me feel good.

It was nice to see her come alive like that today.

Just to give everyone an idea how much I have left to do, here is a list of my remaining tasks. I will be shooting to get all of these done this weekend.


Connect wiring harness to new ECU
Connect remaining wiring plugs including lower engine harness plugs
Install motor grounds
Finish wiring new gauges up inside of car
Install Boost controller bezel and wiring
Install downpipe
Buy/install new bolts for radiator
Install radiator fan controller
Install and bleed new slave cylinder
Install BOV onto hotpipe
Install spark plugs
Tighten motor mounts
Fix Welds and add nipple to cold pipe
Cut holes for intercooler piping
Install MAF and intercooler piping
Reinstall oil pan
Install new fuel line
Install oil filter
Fill oil and radiator
Fill gear oil with another 500 mL
Set Timing
Drive


Some of them are little five minute things so it won't take me too long. I'll be taking care of some of them tonight. I have my camera today so pictures will ensue later.

Last weekend the biggest problem I had with getting these done was organization. I was just staring at a bunch of parts on the ground and a half assembled car and couldn't determine where to start. This weekend I have a game plan and most importantly, more money. :bigok:

[jrmiller84]

Work Day 20 [Back to index] (http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?p=1291433#post1291433)

I got to the car at about 5:30 today which gave me about two hours of sunlight. Within that time I was able to reinstall the oil pan. First thing I did was make sure I had all of the old liquid gasket off of the oil pan, or at least as much as I could get off with a paint scraper. I also made sure to get it off of the upper oil pan as well. Then I used a towel to get all of the old oil out of there. Luckily there were no metal shavings :bigok: Once done, I jacked up the motor about 2-3 inches so I could get my hand behind the engine crossmember to screw in the three bolts that hide back there. Once I had the pan back on, I reinstalled that device that was sitting in the oil from before. I applied liquid gasket to it and bolted it back in there. Here's the oil pan after I cleaned it up.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0378.jpg

Then I started working on the exhaust. I got the downpipe connected to the test pipe and then started to connect it to the turbo outlet. Sadly I have to connect them the other way around. I need to connect it to the turbo outlet and then the test pipe. It didn't want to line up right and the cars frame runners were in the way of lining it up correctly. It shouldn't take me but a few minutes on Saturday so no big deal.

The last thing I did was connect the new slave cylinder up to the transmission. Now this is the first time I've ever replaced a slave cylinder and it seems pretty straight forward, but is the pin supposed to be at such an angle? Here's a picture of it.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0379.jpg

I suppose it is since the old slave cylinder was the same size, just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. Technically it should pivot just fine inside of the bowl on the slave cylinder so perhaps it is correct. After that I was out of sunlight so I had to head home.

Took this picture as well today. Didn't realize they made Acrobat Reader for PocketPC's :aw: So I put the FSM on there today ;)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j83/jrmiller84/Project%20240/DSCN0377.jpg

For when you REALLY need those torque spec's :bigok:

I will definately be finishing this weekend. I'm really close to being done finally.

[Ronald_Mcdonald]

This build is awesome, and inspires me to actually get un-lazy on my build.

You are doing amazing work, keep it up.

[statik]

that slave doesn't look like its sitting right at all, kinda blurry but

http://www.teamhpi.org/gallery/d/1715-1/DSCN1493.JPG

Where did you get the new slave from?

[jrmiller84]

Yeah, I don't know how I feel about it. I got it from Discount Auto Parts. I will probably just hit up Auto Zone on Saturday. I need to set them side by side and see what the difference is.

There doesn't happen to be some kind of mounting plate is there? I'm curious if the KA24E slave cylinders just don't line up or something. I put the old one on the tranny to see how it looked and it too was not lined up correctly.

[statik]

nope just bolts right up, what was wrong with the sr slave?

[chawaiian]

damn dats a sweet job...

[jrmiller84]

nope just bolts right up, what was wrong with the sr slave?

Didn't come with one. :confused:

Perhaps I should check out the compatibility list in the FAQ and see what should be used.

[statik]

Didn't come with one. :confused:

Perhaps I should check out the compatibility list in the FAQ and see what should be used.

ka24de slave will bolt right up

[jrmiller84]

ka24de slave will bolt right up

That's what I figured. I'll just buy one of those then. I'm gonna have one hell of an Autozone purchase, haha. It'll be damn worth it though.

[Zero-Offset]

wow, i am amazed on how much work you were able to do on your own!
i definately thought you would have someone helping you with all that work.

its coming together, now just get us some sweet vids of that "moment of truth" start up.


this really is a case of take your time, and do it right. Much PROPS!!

[Jason240sx]

wish u best of luck man u must be very strong that u can do everything by yourself.

mad props to you bro

[s13gold]

i'm loving all the detailed pictures.

[swift_style]

Nice work done with the wiring. +1. I may have to follow your guide.

[ni5mo240]

on your slave cylinder it looks like it's lined up straight, your slave is ok. What looks mis-aligned is your clutch fork, did you set it in right on the pivot ball? Check that because when my pivot ball broke my slave looked like that. Nice build up, keep up the good work

[jrmiller84]

I checked that before I put the tranny together. It's snapped onto the pivot ball and the fork is snapped onto the throwout bearing. I tried pushing on the fork when I couldn't get them to line up and it wouldn't go in any further, it wouldn't even budge really.

[statik]

I checked that before I put the tranny together. It's snapped onto the pivot ball and the fork is snapped onto the throwout bearing. I tried pushing on the fork when I couldn't get them to line up and it wouldn't go in any further, it wouldn't even budge really.

Are you saying when you had the tranny off the motor you couldnt push the fork by hand (where the slave pushes it) and move the throwout bearing? If so, then yes your fork may be misaligned.

[jrmiller84]

haha, no no. I meant that I couldn't push the fork IN anymore. As in pushing on the fork towards the center of the tranny. I could move the throwout bearing just fine when the tranny was off. I can't push the fork in now(as the slave cylinder would) to engage the throwout bearing, but I figured that was because I'm not strong enough to push it on the pressure plate unlike the slave cylinder would be able to. Is that correct?

I'm starting to worry all around that something may be wrong though. I hope I don't have to pull the motor again... I noticed that my tranny is slightly hard to take out of 3rd and 5th gear, but I figured that was because it hadn't been run yet, it didn't have enough gear oil(didn't fill it all the way yet, only 2/3s of the way), or because of the new pilot bushing.

[statik]

haha, no no. I meant that I couldn't push the fork IN anymore. As in pushing on the fork towards the center of the tranny. I could move the throwout bearing just fine when the tranny was off. I can't push the fork in now(as the slave cylinder would) to engage the throwout bearing, but I figured that was because I'm not strong enough to push it on the pressure plate unlike the slave cylinder would be able to. Is that correct?

I'm starting to worry all around that something may be wrong though. I hope I don't have to pull the motor again... I noticed that my tranny is slightly hard to take out of 3rd and 5th gear, but I figured that was because it hadn't been run yet, it didn't have enough gear oil(didn't fill it all the way yet, only 2/3s of the way), or because of the new pilot bushing.

Yeah you cant push the pressure plate by hand, if you could move it fine before than im sure it's ok.

[S14DB]

Take the rubber dust boot off and look in there to see that it's on the ball and TOB. Could have easily been bumped during the install.