View Full Version : Bah stupid EVAP code 108 keeps happening intermittently, HELP
zomgdrft
03-07-2007, 07:29 PM
Started happening a few days ago. My CEL came on giving me code 108 (EVAP system). I checked all lines quickly, everything seemed fine, so I just reset the CEL. It drove fine for 2 days, but now it's back on, during my drive home from work. Checked it at home, and sure enough, code 108. Where should I start?
I'm browsing over the FSM and seeing several main components to this EVAP system. The EVAP CANISTER PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE is one, the second is EVAP CANISTER PURGE CONTROL VALVE and finally the EVAP CANISTER VENT CONTROL VALVE. Obviously changing out other things to, such as hose and the gas cap may cure it. But as far as advanced things go, where should I start? And the vague pics in the FSM don't really give me a good idea where these parts are located. Thanks
orion::S14
03-07-2007, 08:33 PM
New gas cap...
Or a gym membership...and tighten the gas cap with your new-found strength.
Hehe.
- Brian
projectRDM
03-07-2007, 09:51 PM
Incorrect. Bad gas cap is code 75, EVAP small leak. Check that, but I think you'll find a blown fuse is the culprit.
zomgdrft
03-07-2007, 10:02 PM
Which fuse is blown, though?
Under the hood or under dash?
You don't think there's anything wrong with any evap canisters? The charcoal one or whatever?
shayrgob240
03-07-2007, 10:20 PM
Started happening a few days ago. My CEL came on giving me code 108 (EVAP system). I checked all lines quickly, everything seemed fine, so I just reset the CEL. It drove fine for 2 days, but now it's back on, during my drive home from work. Checked it at home, and sure enough, code 108. Where should I start?
I'm browsing over the FSM and seeing several main components to this EVAP system. The EVAP CANISTER PURGE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE is one, the second is EVAP CANISTER PURGE CONTROL VALVE and finally the EVAP CANISTER VENT CONTROL VALVE. Obviously changing out other things to, such as hose and the gas cap may cure it. But as far as advanced things go, where should I start? And the vague pics in the FSM don't really give me a good idea where these parts are located. Thanks
dude, you don't have an "intermittent" problem. The MIL/DTC doesn't come on right away depending on what the issue is. There are continuous and non-continuous monitors on your car. The reason why the MIL didn't come back right away is b/c the EVAP system is in the "non-continuous" monitor part of the testing that the ECU does. In other words, the EVAP system isn't tested all the time. The car has to be running under certain conditions for the car to self-test the system. So what I'm saying here is that the problem existed since you got the MIL.
The problem is that you erased the code WITHOUT fixing the problem. Why would you do that? Obviously the car has a problem so always diagnose first, fix the problem, THEN erase the code OR let it erase itself.
So w/ that said I would start w/ checking the solenoid first and by making sure that is ok. Go ahead and follow the precedure in the FSM. it should be enough for you to find the problem.
zomgdrft
03-07-2007, 10:30 PM
dude, you don't have an "intermittent" problem. The MIL/DTC doesn't come on right away depending on what the issue is. There are continuous and non-continuous monitors on your car. The reason why the MIL didn't come back right away is b/c the EVAP system is in the "non-continuous" monitor part of the testing that the ECU does. In other words, the EVAP system isn't tested all the time. The car has to be running under certain conditions for the car to self-test the system. So what I'm saying here is that the problem existed since you got the MIL.
The problem is that you erased the code WITHOUT fixing the problem. Why would you do that? Obviously the car has a problem so always diagnose first, fix the problem, THEN erase the code OR let it erase itself.
So w/ that said I would start w/ checking the solenoid first and by making sure that is ok. Go ahead and follow the precedure in the FSM. it should be enough for you to find the problem.
No need to be an ass, man. I didn't know it was a non-continuous monitor. Christ almighty. This is why I'm asking for help. And, as much as I need help, I don't need people acting high & mighty about the whole ordeal. You didn't even tell me anything I didn't already know (aside from it being a non-continous monitor).
Where the solenoid? Is it the one under the intake manifold? Or is that the one by the right rear wheel? Also, please try and be as specific as possible when explaining where these parts are, as I said, the pictures in the FSM are pretty vague IMO and don't really do a good job of explaining where everything is.
zomgdrft
03-08-2007, 01:02 AM
Basically, is this what's wrong or what needs to be replaced?
http://www.hamstermail.net/images/240sx/evap_volume.jpg
Can I just remove the top of the intake manifold, or does the whole thing have to come out :(
projectRDM
03-08-2007, 07:51 AM
1) Check ALL fuses. It's incredibly rare for several solenoids to go out all at once, in fact a single solenoid going out is uncommon.
2) Check vacuum lines. All the EVAP solenoids are fed by vacuum from the lower plenum, make sure each one is fitted properly and there's no breaks or cuts in any of the lines.
shayrgob240
03-08-2007, 09:08 AM
No need to be an ass, man. I didn't know it was a non-continuous monitor. Christ almighty. This is why I'm asking for help. And, as much as I need help, I don't need people acting high & mighty about the whole ordeal. You didn't even tell me anything I didn't already know (aside from it being a non-continous monitor).
Where the solenoid? Is it the one under the intake manifold? Or is that the one by the right rear wheel? Also, please try and be as specific as possible when explaining where these parts are, as I said, the pictures in the FSM are pretty vague IMO and don't really do a good job of explaining where everything is.
wasn't really trying to be but if that's how you took it I apologize. it is extremely difficult to get at all that b/c it's under the intake. IMO it would just be easier to take that thing off and see what's up. When I said check the solenoid I meant check continuity and then you can also feed it 12V and make sure it clicks. If that happens then the solenoid is working properly.
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