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View Full Version : clutch not disengaging, non-hydrolic issue


Silverbullet
03-03-2007, 04:24 PM
Symptoms: Clutch does not disengage fully at times. I used to notice that it only happens when the temp is REALLY cold outside and it would drive fine when it was warm. I havn't drove my 240 all winter due to the problem I've had and no time to look at it. Lately the temp has been fair so i thought it would be ok to drive. i noticed my clutch all of a sudden died on me. I can Push down on the pedal and i would still be ableto accerlate to a certain extent.

Possibilities: air in the line, Bad Master/slave cylinder, leaky clutch line, bad pressure plate (not likely?)

Checked: Both my master and slave cylinder are only a few months old and OEM. I have also checked for any leaks while the clutch doesn't work. All the connections are dry. I've bled the clutch many times. I have speed bleeders so its impossible that the bleeding procedure is incorrect. That pretty much eliminates air in the line, bad master/slave cyl, and leak in the line.

Conclusion: What remains is the mechanism of the clutch rather than the hydrolics. I can't imagine the throw out bearing causing this... whats left in my mind is the pressure plate.... Is htis even possible? I've never heard of such problems with a pressure plate. I have a Spec Stage II clutch BTW. Its been in my SR20 for almost 3 years.

Additional: To prove it is not a problem with the hydrolics, i set up a camera under my car while i pushed down on the clutch. As you can see, the rod extends the full amount (or so i think?).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ1asOBNrvE <---- uploaded but may take some time to appear


Any input and suggestions would be nice...

Phlip
03-03-2007, 04:37 PM
The little fork that holds the throwout to be pressed to the pressure plate could be broken/breaking, that is what happened in my S14 a couple years ago, I used the opportunity to replace all of them, clutch, PP, throwout and that damned fork.

Silverbullet
03-03-2007, 04:44 PM
i would not have thought of that. I'll take that into consideration

But that dosn't really explain why there was a stage where it would work when it was warm and would not when its cold.

az_240
03-03-2007, 05:26 PM
check your clutch pedal height

g6civcx
03-03-2007, 06:04 PM
I suspect you have issues with the internal components, but before you do all that, fix the easy stuff first.

Here's what you do.

1. Take the stopper bolt out of the clutch pedal assembly. This allows your clutch pedal full travel.

2. Adjust the master cylinder rod all the way out so that the rod is fully extended when the clutch pedal is released.

3. Remove the clutch damper if you haven't already done so.

4. Get a Taka Motorsports braided clutch line that goes straight from the master cylinder to the slave.

5. Bleed the clutch line.


I highly recommend replacing the master cylinder with a new OEM unit and the slave with a Nismo unit. This ensures that you have no issues with the hydraulic system.

If the clutch is still not disengaged with the pedal fully depressed, then I would suspect the internal components.


Good luck and let me know.

Silverbullet
03-03-2007, 06:45 PM
i have OEM master and slave cylinder and they are both only half a year old.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ1asOBNrvE <-- a little dark but you can see the rod move.

i set a camera under my car while pushing my clutch pedal. As you can see, it works fine. This is why i believe its a problem with something inside the bell housing.. Even if it is, i can't imagine what it could be.

g6civcx
03-03-2007, 07:56 PM
I saw the video before making that post. It looks like the rod is moving. I'm not sure if it's moving enough to fully disengage the clutch disc.

Do what I said above and see what happens.

I would suspect a faulty release fork, pressure plate, or one of the release springs or bearing/sleeve broke or fell out.

Silverbullet
03-04-2007, 11:00 AM
I just wish there were more obvious symptoms... such as screeching noises when i push down on the clutch haha.. but there there are none.


How likely is it for a fork or pressure plate to be faulty? I'd hate to say it but i think its one of those that is faulty just by process of elimination, but still not completely sure... not enough solid evidence -_-

frankist
03-04-2007, 11:18 AM
fork's can bend, pressure plates go bad, when installed wrong. check the fingers when you take out the tranny.

Silverbullet
03-29-2007, 08:46 AM
*Update*

The spring was broken. F U Spec.

My setup has been replaced with a Competition Clutch Stage 4 kit. Grabs like a mother.

statik
03-29-2007, 08:48 AM
Glad to hear you fixed it, im guessing by spring you meant the spring in the clutch disc?