View Full Version : P/s system confusion
jkgaddis
03-02-2007, 03:02 PM
Before I begin, I would like to assure you all that i used the search feature and cannot find one person with my problem. If you feel that i did not search enough and you find a thread for this, please point me in that direction.
My problem: I have no powersteering after my sr swap. My rack was pefrect before the swap and was removed during the swap and inspected, everything was fantastic. It is a Ka24De Hicas front rack. my swap came with a hicas swap so i went to a local shop and picked up a non-hicas pump. i installed the pump and bled the system as per the FSM using Mobil1 ATF. Im sure i have no leaks because i checked EVERYWHERE for them. Also, my level is fine and doesnt drop. Also, at 50-70 MPH and also under heavy acceleration, my steering wheel shutters left and right about a 1/2".
I cant figure this out for the life of me. The only thing I can think of is that there is a regulating valve of some sort that is malfunctioning. Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.
You say your swap came with hicas, meaning you have hicas power steering pump and reservoir. Did you remove your hicas componets on the car? Hicas pump has two outlet and one inlet. When you installed the non-hicas pump, what did you do with the extra line? What about the extra valve on the hicas reservoir.
I believe your lines are either on backwards or you have one line left open and all the ATF came out.
You didn't need to buy a new pump. you could've just removed the keyways on the rear of the pump and plug the 3rd valve. Then plug the 3rd valve on the reservoir.
jkgaddis
03-02-2007, 07:42 PM
I did remove the hicas completely. i do realize that i could have converted the hicas pump, but im a whore for doing things right. so i did the entire swap non-hicas pump, non-hicas rear subframe, non-hicas resevior (my spelling sucks). the only things from the original system are the front rack (which shouldnt matter) and the front rack lines (also should not matter). there is a slight possibility that you did not read the full original post where a specified that i am 100% positive it is not a leak. so the "it all leaked out" theory is out. the lines im also sure are in the correct place since i match marked them with a paint pen prior to disassembly.
i was looking through the fsm and i came across the pump teardown and it mentions a flow control valve. is it possible that this is sticking and not allowing flow? also, without hooking up a pressure gauge, is there a way to tell if the pump is working. i took it apart and all looked well, but i know looks can be decieving.
jkgaddis
03-03-2007, 06:56 AM
any other ideas?
g6civcx
03-03-2007, 07:26 AM
Did you adjust the rack via the rack adjustment bolt as per the FSM?
Check front wheel and tyre balance, and brake caliper sticking. Do an alignment. Check front suspension bushing.
My money is on worn out tension rod bushing.
jkgaddis
03-03-2007, 11:48 AM
yeah, the wheels were balanced but im gonna have that checked again. this would solve the shaking problem. but for just for info, you would have lost your money. full energy suspension kit just installed. so all new bushings. calipers rebuilt and new everything. im gonna chekc on that wheel balance though. the only thing other than that that i could think would be air in the rack.
my theory is that either my pump isnt making pressure or the flow control valve is damaged. there by no pressure to the rack. the rack works, im sure of that. as far as adjustment, ill check it.
Jesses240
03-03-2007, 12:51 PM
after you install a new power steering pump (because the one you put in is bad), making sure the belt tension is good... then lift the wheels up in the air and very slowly turn them all the way lock to lock a few times and check the p/s level.
p.s. your powersteering pump is most likely bad... so replace it.
jkgaddis
03-03-2007, 02:07 PM
yeah, on the list of "to do" for tomorrow
GSXRJJordan
03-03-2007, 03:01 PM
Yup, pump would be the thing to replace. As stated above, get the wheels off the ground and go side to side a bunch, filling the resevior when needed. When I do it, I'll go back and forth, and then hit the same side a few times, just to go full lock, slightly off, then full lock again... works like a charm :)
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