Engine Oil for SR or KA

[akito]

Hey guys whats up. what engine oil do you use when you do your oil change? SR or KA

I was thinking of trying to set up a group buy for Eneos. Let me know if anyone's interested in some. Im sure it'll be cheaper than buying from the local shops as they tend to be expensive. Not to mention Eneos is good and helps save fuel and increase power. It's the stuff i used when i was in japan.

[TforTits]

Sorry dude, I roll Oberon

[steve shadows]

dont use synthetic

[qwikspool]

i use royal purple.

[NemeGuero]

dont use synthetic
Your mom uses synthetic!

Why not?

[steve shadows]

Your mom uses synthetic!

Why not?


Unless you re-place the bearings in the bottom end. The molecular abrasion on the mating surfaces of the bearing is different over time with synthetic. Its like feeding someone who is lactose intolerant, milk instead of soy. If you engine was brought up on Synthetic then thats fine. If it was brought up on DealerShip Nissan 10w-30 Organic Oil then keep it organic.

If you dont believe me, tell me how long your turbo motor lasts under stress after you switch from straight organic straight accross to synthetic.

I went against my own advice once and the results were - failed rod bearings.

If you re-do the bearings and clean the motor, then first fire it on synthetic , then use synthetic for the life after that, youll be good to go.

or maybe im nuts, and this makes sense, im just a poli sci major anyways...

[NemeGuero]

You can't change the other persons diet with break-in mileage?

[Anto]

I personally run GC (German Castrol). It's 0w-30 Syntec.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB51

Shit's bomb.

[steve shadows]

You can't change the other persons diet with break-in mileage?

prolly.

Id love to see a two year test.

equal abuse,

break in change over

full organic

switch straight to synthetic.

maybe we shoud do?

anyone want to volunteer their motors?

Synthetic is awesome, I would just rather run it on my built motor rather than Container Motor etc.

[NemeGuero]

i'm down. I'll get around to rebuilding that blown KA I picked up

[EchoOfSilence]

Yeah, I heard you don't switch to synthetic from dino oil if it's been brought up on synthetic for a long time, as seals tear and i guess rod bearings too.

anyway, I use Castrol High Mileage :keke: 20w50, sohc ka

[steve shadows]

It is a really good question when you think about it.

My cars will stay organic. (KA stock) (SR Stock Bottom end).

The built bottom end will stay Mobil 1 synthetic when dropped in June.

There is something to be said for a gradual switch over. Like 1 quart of Synthetic three of Normal, then two on the next change, then three and then full.

But my question is how many numchucks out there just go straight over.

[steve shadows]

I personally run GC (German Castrol). It's 0w-30 Syntec.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB51

Shit's bomb.

0w-30?

So when your car is running HOT its 0w

_IM RETARDED_and hungover

[drift freaq]

I bought my Hardbody pickup at 21k it had been run on dino oil. I switched to Synthetic it worked fine even after I had put 135k on it. Now I have not personally switched a low mileage turbo engine from dino oil to synthetic. So I cannot attest for that but I would have to say as long as the mileage is low i.e. not much wear there should be no issue in switching to Synthetic.

[steve shadows]

I bought my Hardbody pickup at 21k it had been run on dino oil. I switched to Synthetic it worked fine even after I had put 135k on it. Now I have not personally switched a low mileage turbo engine from dino oil to synthetic. So I cannot attest for that but I would have to say as long as the mileage is low i.e. not much wear there should be no issue in switching to Synthetic.

I am not talking about a hardbody pickup.

I am talking about a battered wife, turbo setup engine. BATTERED like beaten with a pipe. :Owned:

[drift freaq]

I am not talking about a hardbody pickup.

I am talking about a battered wife, turbo setup engine. BATTERED like beaten with a pipe. :Owned:
heh and I was just clarifying the issue, because it was a general question about the engines in general and not per se about strictly a turbo engine. He did list KA in his post. Therefore my answer was valid and correct as well. :Owned: :D

[steve shadows]

yeah true :kiss:

[clutch kick drifter]

so lemme ask this, if ive ran synthetic ( sr20, 350hp stock bottom end ) and im wanting to swtich to regular can i?

[steve shadows]

did you replace the bearings then just ran synthetic?

or did you just run synthetic on a container motor?

Just step it down in phases...

I THINK it will be ok. Hope I didnt scare anyone too much.

[CKAMC]

I agree with the statement of "early to synth"

I run royal purple on my daily... used to do mobile one before... and it was born on its first 3k with oem oil.

the car didnt feel that much different from the mobile one change... but at 20k when i did the royal purple... it felt better all around... even when I turn on the ac it doesnt lag as much as before.

I did synthetic on my OLD s13 sohc ka... supposedly the motor was at 115k-ish (and the second one since the chassis had over 295k).

Car was dirty all together... coolant system clean up...fuel system clean...intake clean...oil clean. after doing all that cleaning I did synthetic for shits and giggles and not a single problem... it got beaten to shit a lot because I was a pizza delivery boy back then.

the only reason it died was because of the alternator.... but that was around the 165k mark so it was expected.

[MELLO*SOS]

0w-30?

So when your car is running HOT its 0w


:tweak: I think one of us is confused about how multigrade oils work. I believe the 1st number is the viscosity at cold start and the 2nd is at operating temp?


The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. The first number associated with the W is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as cold as a single-grade 10 weight oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle.

[steve shadows]

:tweak: Are you confused, or is my understanding of how multigrade oils work wrong...

Im actually just really hung over

IM blaming this on JohnGriff lol

I thought that was the case...We got in an argument at Kragen and the guy behind the counter (moron) said it was the other way around.

Never bothered to check.

how about single wieght oil?

like

SAE 50...

[MELLO*SOS]

Damn, and I was going to ask if you were drunk again :rofl: :bigok:

I always thought the W was for Winter... Guess that's not too far off :)

edit: regarding the single grade, it's just that grade all the time regardless of temp. Multigrade "starts" at the low # viscosity and raises commensurate with temperature until operating temp where it stays at the second # viscosity. I guess before multigrade oils in the "good ol days" the dudes would have to change motor oil grade with the season? :lol:

I wasn't really clear on those #s until recently too, read through this wiki page it has some info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

:cool:

[steve shadows]

yeah should always stick to my guns. The reason why I was arguing that was because I remebered it from Auto Shop Class from like 1999 lol...

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#5W30%20versus%2010W30

[MELLO*SOS]

This is a good thread, I have wondered when the time comes to get the RB going what oil to use in there...

Now the question is, where the fuck do you find 7.5w-30 oil? jk... I know that 10w-30 is a decent substitute -- but I don't know whether it was synthetic from the get-go or not. Would changing from synth to dino be less harmful than changing from dino to synth?

Also, do any of you guys run "turbo" specific oils? I read some page on amsoil.com that made me consider this...

[steve shadows]

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

-interesting link, im a visual person and im still really freakin hungover

I cant even comprehend this simple discussion kind of sad lol.

anyways.

I used to run SAE50 valvoline on my ole 62-1 car, never had a problem for about a year, than the oil pickup went saucer and threw a bearing...

If i was baller I would use turbo specific oil, very cool stuff.

Good discussion indeed.

[MELLO*SOS]

^^ I've seen that before and it was an interesting read, thanks for the link.

Here's another interesting "oil" link, kinda motorcycle specific, but has some good info nonetheless:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html


What about this stuff, think it's decent for our turbo-apps? LOL

http://www.packagemuseum.com/exhibits/kendall01/kendall01.JPG

[steve shadows]

I have a case of 20w-50 Valvoline racing oil that I am Mad-Dawging.

[redsuns3838]

so what about if you switch to synthetic but dont push the motor hard for a while? or you think it would have the same ill-effect on the bearings?

I swapped my SR and have been using synthetic ever since but who knows what it was brought up on in japan... Guess all I can do it keep putting synthetic in.

Akito I might be interested on a GB for eunos....but royal purple is on sale at autobacs right now. I just want to change from mobil 1 since they have a big controversey regarding their oils or something.

[MELLO*SOS]

^ I'm in the same position, I can only assume that my motor was ran on synthetic for all it's life in japan....

[Irukandji]

20,000 miles so far on synthetic. frequent track events, long drives.
150k on the original KA, and it's doing fine.

[drift freaq]

I would say Amsoil,Motul, Redline, Mobil 1 is the score price wise because its $25 a case at Costco. I Have not heard controversy about the their synthetic but by that chart in the link Amsoil and Redline came out on top.

[steve shadows]

http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=163812

[PoorMans180SX]

How about this?

3 quarts Mobil 1 0w-40
1 quart Mobil 1 15w-50

That makes like 5w-45 or something. The best of both worlds. You don't have to worry about colder-weather startup wear with like 20w-50 and you have higher film strength when hot then the xw-30 stuff that everyone uses.

[dirtdiggler666]

ok ill be the test dummy the car is a 95 120k on the engine just about done with the turbo and i will fill it full or mobile1 and beat the shit out of it:aw:

[Jesses240]

I switched today from conventional oil to sythetic today... I don't know what theperson in japan ran on this sr20 but it sure liked the oil change :-D Since im a technician I get extremly cheap oil :-D

[akito]

good info for all those that posted. thought this thread would have died after 2-3 posts. heh.

would anyone be interested in Eneos (nippon oil co.)? thats what most cars in Japan use, if not that then mobil 1/royal purple. theres a few others out there but those are limited to stock in japan.

[seekanddestroy]

If you re-do the bearings and clean the motor, then first fire it on synthetic , then use synthetic for the life after that, youll be good to go.



You would break in a motor on synthetic?? :keke:

I use amsoil high performance full syn 20-50

[akito]

i plan on running Eneos 0w-20. if anyone's interested let me know. id like for some to test and see how they like it on their cars. i plan on doing a dyno run for it on the ka and the sr (yes dyno ka pointless) but itd be nice to see if theres any results.

[drift freaq]

i plan on running Eneos 0w-20. if anyone's interested let me know. id like for some to test and see how they like it on their cars. i plan on doing a dyno run for it on the ka and the sr (yes dyno ka pointless) but itd be nice to see if theres any results.
0w-20 is a little on the thin side viscosity wise for socal temps. I would say you should be staying in factory recommendations. I.E. 10w-30. Or 5w-30 in my RB's case.

[MELLO*SOS]

Dave are you using Mobile 1 Synthetic 5/30 in your RB? Do you have any experience with the Amsoil brand? What kind of Oil filter are you running the RB?

[PoorMans180SX]

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/1859606911.01._SS500_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

In this^ book, they do dyno test with different oils (controlled water and air temps) and 0w-40 makes the most power all out, but the author recommends 5w-50 for overall durability and power (it's a close second in power production). It's Great book, I highly recommend it.

[WILDACEX187]

im running 5w-30 royal purple in my sr here in nyc. temps have been between 20-40's for the past 3 months. my sr clip came with a sticker from a oil change place japan that said the last change was 10w-30 synthetic so im assuming its been running on synthetic for while before me.

[WILDACEX187]

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/1859606911.01._SS500_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

In this^ book, they do dyno test with different oils (controlled water and air temps) and 0w-40 makes the most power all out, but the author recommends 5w-50 for overall durability and power (it's a close second in power production). It's Great book, I highly recommend it.

i dont think royal purple has 5w-50 :(. i havent seen that weight at pep boys in synthetic i dont think

[PoorMans180SX]

use Mobil one

3 quarts 0w-40
1 quart 15w-50

that leaves you with like 5w-45 average or something. Perfect all-season oil.

[TforTits]

except you're not supposed to run big gaps in oil viscosity.

old motor ran on 20-50 Amsoil Severe Service because it was built loose

Container Motor will be run on 10W-30 Mobil 1 because its pretty tight.

[s13gold]

i live in socal where its always hot...20W 50...Mobil

[SochBAT]

I ran organic in the SOHC, wanted to be baller and try synth, fucked shit up, 2 days later threw organic back in. My car didn't like synth, and the viscosity wasn't thick enough. Seems to me SOHCs love that sludge, and run on it.

It was 10w30 Castol Extended Life?

[d*star180]

Ive always run Castrol HIgh RPM 20w50 synthetic blend in my sohc KA.
Never had any real problems with it. Gives me peace of mind when beating the dogpiss out of it.

[PoorMans180SX]

modern technology has eliminated the fear of big oil viscosity gaps.

[zoomswimmer]

You should never break an engine in with Syth. It's a good way to ruin your seals. Also older cars that haven't been running Syth, it wouldn't be a good idea to switch either. The reason the Syth is better is because the molecules are smaller. Which means they lube better. It also means that if you have an engine with alot of miles, running Syth could mean the oil is getting into your combustion camber, and that's never a good thing. I just changed my SUV to a blend to get better gas mileage, and my Mazda (with only 20000 miles) to Syth and it seems to be working great. My Nissan is out of commision right now, but once I drop the new (used) engine into it, Syth is going into it first and I'm going to see how it runs, if it runs fine, I'm going to keep running Syth, if not, I'm going to try a Blend, and if that doesn' work just conventional.

[S13 Charlie]

Here's another interesting "oil" link, kinda motorcycle specific, but has some good info nonetheless:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html


What about this stuff, think it's decent for our turbo-apps? LOL

http://www.packagemuseum.com/exhibits/kendall01/kendall01.JPG

Anyone else notice that this oil label is chunkin a deuce? How can you go wrong! But on topic - Turbo 711 can you explain why modern technology has removed the fear of large gaps in oil weight? Do you mean that engines are better made these days, and oil pump technology is much improved over the good ole days?

[kassed33]

if you want to switch from reg to syn you shouldn't just switch it. You should do 3 or 4 oil changes with a syn blend first then make the switch.

[S14DB]

I have never read so many old wives tails in one thread before. I am extremely disappointed in the bullshit that has been spewed out here. When I calm down I'll type something out based on fact.

[steve shadows]

You would break in a motor on synthetic?? :keke:

I use amsoil high performance full syn 20-50


yeah i know thats not right, its light organic first fire, then syn.

[S14DB]

Damn, all those motors that come from the factory with mobil 1 are going to be fucked... :rolleyes:

[steve shadows]

Damn, all those motors that come from the factory with mobil 1 are going to be fucked... :rolleyes:


Thats not the point...

The point is if they don't...:duh:



side note : mobil 1 is the best oil imho

[Flybert]

I run mobil 1 10w30 in my track car on non-rebuilt SR and change it about every 2 track events and I don't drive it on the street, just to the track and back. The key is to change your oil as often as you can that way you know it doesn't thin out. When I dailied and tracked, I changed it every event which was about every month or two. All of my motors have been golden on the inside with perfect compression. I attribute that to good oil and frequent oil changes.

[drift freaq]

Dave are you using Mobile 1 Synthetic 5/30 in your RB? Do you have any experience with the Amsoil brand? What kind of Oil filter are you running the RB?

I ran Amsoil in my Hardbody pickup,KA24e. I bought the truck at 21k . Stuck amsoil 10w40 in and ran it that way for eight years. Worked great, 25k extended drain intervals with Amsoil less than 1 micron filters changed out every 7k and top off. So basically it was 3 filters 4 quarts with 1.5 quarts added in top off. I did the math and I was actually spending less on oil and oil changes than I would have using dino oil and doing 3k changes. Engine ran like a champ when I sold the truck at 135k and I revved the piss shit out of her and did delivery with her in San Francisco! So lets just say hard driving.

Toughest deal about Amsoil is getting it for a good price. I use to be a distributor just so I could get the hookup. If you can find it for a good price its well worth it. It is by far one of the best synthetics on the market. Their filters are some of the best as well.
The RB had dino oil put in it at the install. I am about to most likely switch to Mobil 1 5w-30. I have not decided on a filter but I am looking for a 1 micron or less filter. The better your filter the more extended drain intervals work for you. Mobil 1 is so easy to get at Costco its kinda of a no brainer.

[PoorMans180SX]

Anyone else notice that this oil label is chunkin a deuce? How can you go wrong! But on topic - Turbo 711 can you explain why modern technology has removed the fear of large gaps in oil weight? Do you mean that engines are better made these days, and oil pump technology is much improved over the good ole days?

No, oil technology has. 15w-50 Mobil 1 is now guaranteed for 15,000 miles. The newest additive packages and molecular modifiers are much farther advanced than they were back in even 2000. Also, you'll notice that the "high-performance" oils from reputable companies like Greddy, HKS, and Apex'i are all large gap viscosities. Greddy makes a 10w-60, Apex'i a 5w-50, and HKS makes 5w-40. Guys in Japan and the UK run these oils exclusively.

Just as a note, I wouldn't recommend 10w-60 for street engines, as 60 weight has a hard time fitting in between a lot of things, especially on high-rpm or newly rebuilt motors. I'm pretty sure 10w-60 is intented for loose built, high (metal) expansion racing motors built for MAX power.

drift freaq, may I recommend Pure Power? www.gopurepower.com

[chibo]

Just as a note, I wouldn't recommend 10w-60 for street engines, as 60 weight has a hard time fitting in between a lot of things, especially on high-rpm or newly rebuilt motors. I'm pretty sure 10w-60 is intented for loose built, high (metal) expansion racing motors built for MAX power.[/url]
For what it's worth my father's E60 M5 runs 10-60; it redlines at 8300 or so and it's got the tightest tolerances of anything I've ever touched.

[S14DB]

M5 is almost a race motor, with a huge oil pump to push that thick oil.

[chibo]

M5 is almost a race motor, with a huge oil pump to push that thick oil.
You are correct :bigok: It's actually got four oil pumps and a wet sump though :rofl:

[CylonFrakker]

I run Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Oil. Its great and thick enough for a high revving race motor. Never had a problem with it at all. You should try it. Its cheap and it works. I just wish they made a lighter oil in it. i would be happy with a 10W-50

[sr20drifter1]

I use Motul 5w-30 on my sr20det.It's good and light for my car in winter.When Spring starts,I use Motul 10w-30.I make sure that I use their engine cleaner once after 2 oil changes.It works for me.

[WILDACEX187]

I use Motul 5w-30 on my sr20det.It's good and light for my car in winter.When Spring starts,I use Motul 10w-30.I make sure that I use their engine cleaner once after 2 oil changes.It works for me.

where do you buy motul oil?

[akito]

ill be buying oil next week. if anyone wants in to try it out.
options available are
for the crazy enthusiasts on the track 0w-50... 8.50$/qt 51/box
then as follows for the daily drivers
0w-20 = 7.75$/qt... 46.50$/box
5w-20 $7.75/qt... 46.50$/box
5w-30 $6.25/qt... 37.50$/box

1 box = 6 qts

[DJ_Sunrise]

my old s13 ran on regular oil till i bought it withhhh.. 120k? switched straight to royal purple, ran for 20k... sold it.. current owner uses royal purple for another 15k, engines never been better.. still holds perfect compression. theres about 30k on top of my S14 SR on royal purple.. who knows if it ran with reg. or synth.. runs like a champ, perfect compression. i work at a car dealership.. when you come in for an oil change, the oil you get anywhere.. is absolutely the cheapest shit the owner will throw in there. all toyotas start with toyota motor oil for first 5k-15k miles, and then are switched to semi-synthetic that resembles slightly discolored water haha.. without a hickup. occasionally we get high, really high, or jesus.. its still running high.. mileage cars.. first time customers who decide to switch to synthetic on 400k mile sienna engines, and once again.. do it without a hiccup. maybe theres fact to whats being said, but 36 mechanics at my work, and of course at other places.. will tend to disagree that it will cause damage.. they just recommend against using synthetic if your engines leaking oil like a SS autochrome manifolds leak exhaust haha :)

[drift freaq]

my old s13 ran on regular oil till i bought it withhhh.. 120k? switched straight to royal purple, ran for 20k... sold it.. current owner uses royal purple for another 15k, engines never been better.. still holds perfect compression. theres about 30k on top of my S14 SR on royal purple.. who knows if it ran with reg. or synth.. runs like a champ, perfect compression. i work at a car dealership.. when you come in for an oil change, the oil you get anywhere.. is absolutely the cheapest shit the owner will throw in there. all Toyotas start with toyota motor oil for first 5k-15k miles, and then are switched to semi-synthetic that resembles slightly discolored water haha.. without a hickup. occasionally we get high, really high, or jesus.. its still running high.. mileage cars.. first time customers who decide to switch to synthetic on 400k mile sienna engines, and once again.. do it without a hiccup. maybe theres fact to whats being said, but 36 mechanics at my work, and of course at other places.. will tend to disagree that it will cause damage.. they just recommend against using synthetic if your engines leaking oil like a SS autochrome manifolds leak exhaust haha :)


People were not saying it cause's damage per se. What they were saying is the fact that a engine ran on petroluem based oil for a long time when switched over to synthetic would start leaking oil and be a waste of money and due to leakage could go down the road of damage if oil levels were not maintained because of leakage.
Now this happens to be a fact. Petroleum based oil over times swells rubber seals and gaskets. It also gunks them up with buildup. When you run a synthetic it tends to not do this and also does not gunk up. When that happens after using petroleum based oil and switching to synthetic it causes leaks because it cleans the gunk out and also no longer swells the seals. Thereby causing possible leakage and waste of money due to oil loss and if the owner of said vehicle is not careful low oil due to oil loss which can cause damage. These are all proven facts and many mechanics can attest to it.
Now if your engine is well maintained with a petroleum based oil not allowed to gunk up and does not have a lot of mileage than switching over is not a problem.
Though higher mileage engines run on Petroleum should stay on Petroleum for the above stated facts.
P.S. most higher mileage engines are not well maintained oil wise anyways and what I stated above rings completely true.

[sTalnOut]

i use GReddy GR2 oil

[boozels]

Torco is one of the best. Sr1 or if your baller the Sr5

[Atljunglist]

I use Motul 5w-30 on my sr20det.It's good and light for my car in winter.When Spring starts,I use Motul 10w-30.I make sure that I use their engine cleaner once after 2 oil changes.It works for me.
What kind of cleaner do you guys recomend??

[steve shadows]

I use K&N , Mobil 1 or Nissan OEM for filters....

CLeaner? You mean engine solvents? for cleaninginternals?

I clean my engines via re-builds and hot tanking. thats about it.

[sideview_180sx]

im on my 3rd KA and my 2nd s13. all 3 engines got mobil 1 10w30. along with a standard tune up. and i've never had smoking. leaking. or a change in performance. these motors aren't built motors with tight tolerances. they are quite robust and can take a beating. don't baby it, beat it. and i also get amsoil at stupid cheap pricing. thanks to a sponsor. but i will be using that in a different motor. if you want clean oil. bite the the bit get a good oil filter. i have the trask setup and my friend is using the canton setup. super awesome filtration and i can run the oil in the car longer (currently 7K miles on the mobil 1 oil with the trask filter and the oil is still a nice brown). Good oil is only part of the equation, the filter is the main ingredient IMO. to having the best setup.

[illvialuver]

okay i just red this and im tired so i think i got confused. is it okay to swith to organic from sinthetic? i dont knwo what the person ran in it before i bought it.
and another thing, i hear that the est filter is the one from the dealership cause the filter isnt paper like fram. that just waht i hear and what i use.

[O3DigitalBath]

so how many people are runnin some of the thinnest shit they can find and a big oil cooler with theromostat so it doesn't thin out too much?>

[420sx]

well i ran alot of different oils... i really like 10w30 for how it feels. 5w30 a lil too thin, pressure drop. higher than 10w40 isnt necessary if u have a low mileage sr.
i use torco now. i love this stuff.

used redline. my favourite. this and torco.

used royal purple for 2 years. its ok dont get me wrong but lookin at the data its inferior to torco and redline
used all other offshelf stuff. ofcourse its not as great.


also look into amsoil. but if u gonna order anyway, then might as well use torco.

10w30 ftw. and i track my car just fine with it 1-2 (sometimes) a month. u could run an oilcooler and be golden.

[kandyflip445]

When I bought my car it was at 130k miles and had been on dino oil its entire life. There were receipts to prove it was changed every 3000 miles. The front main seal was leaking so I replaced that and switched to synthetic. Runs great, even better than before from the sound of things. I haven't had any leak trouble from the engine since the front main seal either.

I like Redline 10w30 in my car. I may try a 10w40 next but right now I'm running the AutoRx treatment to clean it out some. It has been getting more quiet since I started running the "clean" phase and I'm almost to the "rinse" phase. I'm using Valvoline for the AutoRx cause it says to use dino oil. Also, using a PureOne filter.

[Jung918]

I'm hearing a lot of good things about this Enios oil. I might have to pick some up from you.

[akito]

so now that hybrid performance posted up something before i did.... anyone interested lol