If i go around a corner and press the gas it sputters!

[devonkyle77]

please help me diagnose this.

here is what i am suffering from. after about 5-10 minutes of driving my car gets "jumpy." by that, i mean is goes from having power to not having power very briefly. the longer i drive, the longer the periods of time without power become. during the longer periods of time without power, pushing the gas pedal down further, letting off and then getting back on the gas seems to help "bring the car back" to getting power again. the shifter shakes while this is all going on too.

i have a brand new Nismo tranny mount. also i have a new 1 piece driveshaft and transmission fluid was just replaced.

on with my description.
my rpms do not drop or spike while this happens. they remain consistent.
however, the needle does sometimes fluctuate at idle. not often though. i have a walbro 255 fuel pump and z32 fuel filter. could that cause an injector to go bad?

the clutch is a SPEC stage 2, with about 50k miles on it. the flywheel is the original one and was resurfaced when the clutch was installed. the clutch doesnt seem to slip, can the throwout bearing fail and cause what describe?


if I go around a corner and press the gas it sputters! this is when it happens most often.

i have replaced -
plugs, plug wires, maf, fuel filter, fuel pump, distributor cap and rotor.

[gotta240]

O2 sensor problems often give "wierd" symptoms..

If your POSITIVE its not fuel related....look into 02sensors.

[kandyflip445]

If it sound's like it's a Harley when it sputters it could be an injector crapping out. I had my #3 cyl do that and I did a power balance test to find the faulty inj. That test wouldn't do you any good though because your problem is only under certain conditions. I would get under the hood with the car running (no loose clothes, of course) and start to wiggle the connectors to see if you have something wrong with some wiring.

[devonkyle77]

just replaced both 02 sensors, and neither sensor is throwing a code. still having these issues. also, my car doesnt make any unusual sounds

[SochBAT]

no CEL lights? checked your vacuum hoses for any leaks or anythin likethat?

[BOROSUN]

couple Q?

this only happens when cornering? or idle?

there's no power until you pump the gas and pumping the gas brings it back. do you hear any spark knock? no overheating problem?

first
-check your fuel pressure* at idle and fpr vac off
-check your timing

others
-check vacuum
-clogged exhuast
-check your air filter
-check the Throttle cable slack

[GSXRJJordan]

since you said you replaced the distributor, sounds like you've got a KA (always good to note). I'm guessing it's an electrical or vacuum problem - I'd check everything mechanical first (vacuum is all that's left I guess) and then start checking connections on the harness. Might be a ground that comes and goes, I had a problem very similar (everyone has electrical gremlins) and was solved when I pinned out the harness and reconnected all the ground leads to good grounds.

[ixfxi]

check your voltage on the fuel pump - maybe your wiring isnt as good as it once was.

other than that, try disabling bullshit like the EGR.. could be causing issues.

[HalveBlue]

I have the exact same problem as you're describing, devonkyle77.

For the most part my idle is stable. Every once in a while it'll fluctuate abnormally, especially if I've been driving the car a little bit harder.

Usually, as long as I keep the rev's down I won't have a problem, but once I hit ~3,000 rpm in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear the car will start bogging. If I hold the throttle constant at that rpm range in those gears I will loose power. As soon as I let go of the gas and reapply the problem will go away temporarily. However, after a few seconds it will come back. It sucks, especially during long road trips because I have to constantly give gas, let go, give gas, let go, give gas, let go, etc.

I have replaced the headgasket (unrelated, and the problem occured before the replacement), spark plugs, recirculated the BOV, replaced the Knock Sensor, replaced the fuel filter, checked the MAF, checked the TPS, checked the O2 sensor, reset the timing, and checked for codes (none).

So far none of these have solved the problem.

Next up, I'm going to check compression, replace all the gasket on the exhaust side, and check the injectors.

I have an S13 blacktop, btw.

Let me know if you find anything that solves the problem.

[g6civcx]

Check your fuel injector harness as well.

[MELLO*SOS]

Sounds exactly like the symptoms I had with my code 34 knock sensor subharness short problem a while ago. When the subharness shorts to ground, the ECU throws a code 34 for missing knock sensor or bad knock sensor wiring harness. Now, it will retard spark timing like safe mode from 3000ish all the way past 5000.

[O3DigitalBath]

Sounds like you have a carb instead of EFI :keke:

Check your fuel injector harness as well.

+1 for injector harness...i've been many simliar problems that were caused from shitty connections there.

[sebazztard]

ive had a slightly similar problem for the past 2 years with my car, some days its bad others its no problem. sometimes i can recreate it while the engine is idle and if i move some of the vaccum lines (going into valve cover stock ka)it will bog then accelerate for a short moment then idle. after it does that i will move the same line and it will not do anything to the engine. i have no idea. its like when you think you've found the problem, you havent even touched it yet. im going to replace every hose on the system when it gets nice out (-'s here outside). but thats the only thing i can think of. ive also replaced wires, plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, new fuel pump, new ground at battery, alternator, starter, and still have the symptoms ..altho not as bad as it was. vaccum lines.... thats gotta be it in my opinion.