Power FC is In

[kuramaya]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/bjorkluv/IMG_3862.jpg

Well The Power FC is isntalled. I had The APEXi shop "Odotec" do the intial Tune for me, and I will take over from here. I can say that my car is running smoother than when I bought it and it was stock. I had a wideband installed already so that borught the price down. The AEM UEGO wires for the Data Logging worked fine. One of the reasons I was worried about the Power FC is I would lose the Decel Air function I had with the SAFC II...I explained this to Odotec and he reccomended I get the APEXi Boost Sensor. It is a unit that has 3 wires, 1 Power, 1 ground, and 1 that runs to the Power FC...Then it taps into the Vacuum line on the manifold...Here is a PIC, it was 17,000 Yen I think...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/bjorkluv/IMG_3863.jpg

The Commander can then display the Boost levels accurately (I am running a manual controller) and allows the Power FC to detect boost cut and combined with RPM adjustments in the Rev section in the Commander Menu... The car can be made to pause at 1500, 1200, and then settle at my current set idle of 800 RPMS..There is more to it I am sure but this is what I got from the explaination.... if someone wants to run atmosphere BOV and copy my settings in that screen its cool with me to see if it works....I am sure you need the boost sensor though. There is absolutely no RPM's drops or stalling when coming off throttle..it goes right to 1500, then after a few secons to idle... As far as the tune, it is great...smooth all the up and down the power band. I would like to get it Power Checked again just to see if there were some hiding PS's with my SAFC II tune and now...I have been studyin the PFC and Commander and playing with it a little bit..Is the water temp accurate on it? I am guessing no, but someone fill me in.
Late
Daryl

[Sileighty_85]

Here take a look at this

https://www.rhdjapan.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=739

[kuramaya]

yeah, I didnt get the full boost control kit since cash is in high demand for christmas..the boost sensor is half of the kit (they sell separately here) now all I need is the solenoid and I will be good...that is 13,000 Yen...for now I am str8 with the Manual, running 1.3 today and the turbo looses efficiency so set it back to 1.1 and I am fine...injectors were at 94% at 1.3 bar as well....
late
daryl

[Slidin240Wayz]

Daryl,
I was told that you should run the injectors no more that 80%. Reason being they injector can stay shut and ... well, you know.

Carlos

[punxva]

wow your car is starting to come along very nicely Daryl

[spdfreek0o]

running injectors at 80% is just a safety feature. You can run them higher with a good tune and still be within reason.

[kuramaya]

well I backed the boost off to 1.1 from 1.3 when it was 94%...I'll have to go full boost tomorrow at 1.1 and let you know what the injectors are at...

thanks guys!

[S14DB]

Sweet, I'm getting the Boost Control Kit now.

[drift freaq]

Actually Daryl the water temp readout is dead accurate. Its the next best thing to having a straight mechanical water temp gauge. It takes the readout directly from your factory water temp sensor. Usually that signal would just go straight to our shitty factory water temp gauges that are crazy inaccurate. You can have a flucuation of 10-15 degrees that would not even show up on the factory gauge and you see it on the commander. I am running a RB so having that readout has been critical for me to bring my engine temp in socal into a reasonable area. I can watch the temp move a degree or two or more and I have tested that by turning on air and turning off air and adding fans.
Its what I used to determine just how ineffiecent Koyo radiators really are. :D

[kuramaya]

Actually Daryl the water temp readout is dead accurate. Its the next best thing to having a straight mechanical water temp gauge. It takes the readout directly from your factory water temp sensor. Usually that signal would just go straight to our shitty factory water temp gauges that are crazy inaccurate. You can have a flucuation of 10-15 degrees that would not even show up on the factory gauge and you see it on the commander. I am running a RB so having that readout has been critical for me to bring my engine temp in socal into a reasonable area. I can watch the temp move a degree or two or more and I have tested that by turning on air and turning off air and adding fans.
Its what I used to determine just how ineffiecent Koyo radiators really are. :D

Thanks brother! The more I researched I found you are right. The temp is at 23 degrees celsius this morning which is the outside temp...cool! It has been running at 80 degrees celsius or so...thanks again...

[S14DB]

What are the numbers?

[kuramaya]

What are the numbers?

nu numbers yet..I will do a powercheck with video and chart maybe next week...we will just say that it is a full under load tune...

[S14DB]

Would be nice to do a dyno before (current state) and after tuning.

[kuramaya]

well actually I did, nothing was changeds since the Dyno in the Sig...299.1 back then...only thing change was Diff Fluid, Oil, and Coolant since then. Just usual Preventive Maintenance items...
Late
Daryl

[S14DB]

I have to figure the change in ECU would make a difference in output.

[drift freaq]

I have to figure the change in ECU would make a difference in output.
Your right AJ. PowerFC is a bolt on power upgrade. I noticed the difference the first time we hooked up a PowerFC to my stock RB before I started upgrading the turbo adding a boost controller and whatnot. Though we did not dyno it you could definitely feel it. As to how much who knows? Though if Daryl dyno's his soon again with no other changes then we should have an accurate take on how much of a power upgrade it is.

[kuramaya]

Your right AJ. PowerFC is a bolt on power upgrade. I noticed the difference the first time we hooked up a PowerFC to my stock RB before I started upgrading the turbo adding a boost controller and whatnot. Though we did not dyno it you could definitely feel it. As to how much who knows? Though if Daryl dyno's his soon again with no other changes then we should have an accurate take on how much of a power upgrade it is.


I think saturday will be the day.....so we shall see..:rawk:

[s13silvia123]

i'm saving some cash for this right now; after i get the turbo upgrade. i heard many good reviews on the power fc. a buddy of mine has it for his evo. and he feels the difference.

[kuramaya]

So I took it out tonight for a bit of Butt Dyno testing and here is how it goes...there is a HUGE noticable difference after I hit 5,000 RPM's it is an insane pull that wasnt there before with my SAFC tune, so I am guessing the inginition wasnt right or I was too rich before...I pushed it until the tires were breaking loose in third gear and I shut down then...here is what the stats were on the PFC after that Run, I cleared the peak hold right before the run:

Boost: 1.3 Kilos
Revs: 6455
Speed 133 kPH
Injectors: 90.3 percent
Knock: 10

I am gonna get a power check this saturday I think along with a buddy, there is no way that it hasnt gained any power, has to be over 299.1 I know that for sure...I have turned the boost back down a few clicks to 1.15
late
Daryl

[DrtyRat]

That's awesome! I'll be getting mine within the next month, and I'm really excited about it. So many good reviews on this thing that I don't think I can go wrong :)

[kuramaya]

Thats Great, big chunk of cash at once but well worth it!:werd:

[drift freaq]

So I took it out tonight for a bit of Butt Dyno testing and here is how it goes...there is a HUGE noticable difference after I hit 5,000 RPM's it is an insane pull that wasnt there before with my SAFC tune, so I am guessing the inginition wasnt right or I was too rich before...I pushed it until the tires were breaking loose in third gear and I shut down then...here is what the stats were on the PFC after that Run, I cleared the peak hold right before the run:

Boost: 1.3 Kilos
Revs: 6455
Speed 133 kPH
Injectors: 90.3 percent
Knock: 10

I am gonna get a power check this saturday I think along with a buddy, there is no way that it hasnt gained any power, has to be over 299.1 I know that for sure...I have turned the boost back down a few clicks to 1.15
late
Daryl
Not bad, looks like you have a grip on the tune. Your knock is nice and low. Though your injector duty is a tad high considering your at 6500 rpm. You would want it be lower at that rev range, or your not going to be able to go higher than that rpm wise, without hitting max duty cycle. IMHO

[kuramaya]

Not bad, looks like you have a grip on the tune. Your knock is nice and low. Though your injector duty is a tad high considering your at 6500 rpm. You would want it be lower at that rev range, or your not going to be able to go higher than that rpm wise, without hitting max duty cycle. IMHO


I agree with the Inj Duty, thats why I have turned the boost back down to 1.1, I don't think I need to run 1.3, shit 1.1 is fine. The tires were breaking loose at 136 KPH anyway...
late
Daryl

[drift freaq]

what injectors are you running again Daryl?

[DJ_Sunrise]

ive been using my Power FC for a long time, and absolutely love it.. its easy enough to learn how to tune yourself, and does the job better than AEM EMS IMO. Requires datalogit for the immense number of functions it offers tho.. haha. ive hit 99.8, 98.9, 96.4, 100.0 percent injector duty and my car still runs fine without problems. I attribute this to sheer miracles why my engine is still in one piece.. next thing im buying is the PFC boost controller so i dont blow my engine..

-Bart

[kuramaya]

what injectors are you running again Daryl?
550's brother...

[sante]

Sup man? I not sure what a proper intro to myself would be but I wont take to much of your time. I have a 95 240 with a red top. I am looking into a stand alone computer, either a power fc or an aem. I was wondering what the difference is between the two and if its worth it to spend more for the AEM? I was also wondering if it is hard to tune with the power fc. If you can help that would be great!

[kuramaya]

Sup man? I not sure what a proper intro to myself would be but I wont take to much of your time. I have a 95 240 with a red top. I am looking into a stand alone computer, either a power fc or an aem. I was wondering what the difference is between the two and if its worth it to spend more for the AEM? I was also wondering if it is hard to tune with the power fc. If you can help that would be great!

I dont know shit about the AEM EMS, everyone with the exception of a few guys I know here run the Ljetro and Djetro Versions of the Power FC..it could be since the availability of knowledge is better out here since know one tunes the AEM that I know of here...Most of us Street tune our rides, I usually do my own and will take over from the initial Tune I had done on my Power FC. To tune, you NEED a wideband and a Datalogging software setup. It is good to also have a Exhaust Temp guage for ignition MAPS.
Late
DAryl

[Ninjabread]

Hey Daryl, you are still running with a MAFS system right? no MAP as of yet?

[kuramaya]

Hey Daryl, you are still running with a MAFS system right? no MAP as of yet?

Yeah I am going to stick with the Z32....you know I kick myself in the ass for things like this, but hopefully I do not want to change my mind later. Like the 550's, I shoulda got 740's I am now limited again, I plan to stick with a T28 based Turbo, maybe the 2835 or 2871 next, but still will be limited with the 550's...theres my rant on my injectors:wackit:

[Ninjabread]

740's are ftw... doesn't hugh have 740's on his stock sr? lol. anyway if you want really good top end, fuck a 2871, get a gt2540r, i can vouch for those things. massive turbo, but awesome power up there. local guy here has one with some mild cams, intake mani, full race mani he is doing 350 crank hp at 15 psi... he's shooting for over 400 next season.

only thing is that turbo is a dinosaur compared to a 2871r.

[drift freaq]

Yeah I am going to stick with the Z32....you know I kick myself in the ass for things like this, but hopefully I do not want to change my mind later. Like the 550's, I shoulda got 740's I am now limited again, I plan to stick with a T28 based Turbo, maybe the 2835 or 2871 next, but still will be limited with the 550's...theres my rant on my injectors:wackit:
Interesting, see I am going to 550's with the Z32 MAF, my turbo is a HKSGT2530. Its been pushed to 368hp over there on a RB, though I do not know if that was at the wheels or at the crank. I do know that 550's should be good for what I am shooting for which is a max of somewhere around 330-350 whp. Right now with my PowerFC and the stock injectors and stock maf I was running at close to 90 duty cycle at .9 bar. I feel I was pretty much in the 300whp range. I know that on the stock computer with 6lbs of boost I dynoed at 239 whp. So its not hard to figure I picked up 70hp on the extra 5lbs of boost and the PowerFC. All I know is the car was god awful fast. The next dyno run will be the tune run when I install my 550's and wire the Maf.
All in all the PowerFC is the shit, its to bad Apexi has announced they are discontinueing the product for the RB25. Thats a heads up for RB25 owners, if you want a PowerFC now is the time to get one. Before they stop showing up new and you have to search for one used.

[kuramaya]

drift freaq - 500's are fine for your plan, I just see that i coulda got the 740's with the ability to go higher if I wanted to, get rid of the limits...I was at 1.3 when I hit that 90%, and that is only 90%. As you know you can tune 740's down, but not 550's above their limits. Might as well have gotten the 740's. The price is the same usually anyway. You will be fine with that setup. Also that is a bad ass turbo...great for the slide!

Matt89 - Yeah Hugh is running the 740's. I am not as worried about a high top end as compared to quick spool. I love being in Full boost before 4,000 Revs...I will be doing Gymkhana and Sliding only so top end is not a really big concern as compared to power on demand...

[drift freaq]

drift freaq - 500's are fine for your plan, I just see that i coulda got the 740's with the ability to go higher if I wanted to, get rid of the limits...I was at 1.3 when I hit that 90%, and that is only 90%. As you know you can tune 740's down, but not 550's above their limits. Might as well have gotten the 740's. The price is the same usually anyway. You will be fine with that setup. Also that is a bad ass turbo...great for the slide!

Matt89 - Yeah Hugh is running the 740's. I am not as worried about a high top end as compared to quick spool. I love being in Full boost before 4,000 Revs...I will be doing Gymkhana and Sliding only so top end is not a really big concern as compared to power on demand...
Ya, the GT2530 is fucking instantanious spool monster. hahahhahhhaha. It spools up so quick. I can drop out of my driveway onto my street at 10mph with cars going by at 40-50 and hit the gas and it looks like they are standing still. I wind up 2-3 car lengths up the street from them in like 2- 3 seconds. Hahahahaha.

[WILDACEX187]

im surprised u're doing 90% duty cycle on the injectors. i was told 550's would be good for up to 330whp or maybe a lil more. why the high duty cycle?

[kuramaya]

im surprised u're doing 90% duty cycle on the injectors. i was told 550's would be good for up to 330whp or maybe a lil more. why the high duty cycle?

easy, you can see that I was at 299 before, this run was at 1.3 bar well over what I used on my Dyno Run, plus I have REAL tune, not the SAFC Tune I had when I did my last power check. I am sure I am at 330 now...My car is hella fast man...

[WILDACEX187]

ohhh ic now u didnt dyno u're car at 1.3. ok i get it:bow: u running a s14 t28?

[kuramaya]

ohhh ic now u didnt dyno u're car at 1.3. ok i get it:bow: u running a s14 t28?

Yep...still going strong..

[JohnC]

Hi,

wanted to know if part numbers for the sensor and harness:

415-XA04 harness
499-X001 sensor
This will be for my S14 SR20DET.
Thanks in advance.

[kuramaya]

:confused: what do you need John?

[JohnC]

Sorry but I worded it wrong.
I want to make sure those part numbers are the ones I will need to order
To also be able to monitor boost in my L Jetro PFC.

Thanks

[harlockssx]

Daryl! It's Matt! You going to get that power check soon to show these guys what you've got now? I will say that your duty cycle IS a lot higher than it should be...maybe you should bump up your base fuel pressure to compensate? I don't think Odotech has your injector timing set up correctly...either that, or you may not have 550's, but something a little smaller.

[drift freaq]

Daryl! It's Matt! You going to get that power check soon to show these guys what you've got now? I will say that your duty cycle IS a lot higher than it should be...maybe you should bump up your base fuel pressure to compensate? I don't think Odotech has your injector timing set up correctly...either that, or you may not have 550's, but something a little smaller.
I would tend to agree. That is why I was msytified when he said he was running 550's. Need to go back and check the flow caculator on RC engineerings website, but I think the last time I did, 550's were good for at least 400 whp with headroom.

[kuramaya]

Injectors were voltage tested with chart from speed factory when I bought them matt. I have the fuel pressure set at 3 Bar, think that why? I did another run at 1.23 Bar of boost and injectors were at 73%...it wasnt consistent. On the run I first spoke of in this thread the as end broke out, so that could be when the injectors hit the high level..I am not sure...important thing to me is I am not gonna run past 1.15 on this turbo anyway...when I move to a bigger 2835 turbo I am gonna throw 740's in I think anyway...Ill let you know whats up with the power check...it is weird though...I will go out after work tonight and make a few runs and log it to get an average injector duty cycle..
late
daryl

[WILDACEX187]

so if 550s can be good till 400hp will my 480's be good for 300? i have s15 injectors and turbo, just looking to break the 300 mark

[kuramaya]

so if 550s can be good till 400hp will my 480's be good for 300? i have s15 injectors and turbo, just looking to break the 300 mark

480's are fine for 300 WITH A GOOD TUNE

[s13silvia123]

just wondering when you got the power fc does it have a rev limiter in its functions too.

[kuramaya]

just wondering when you got the power fc does it have a rev limiter in its functions too.


Yes, you can set your rev limit to wherever you want. Mine is set at 8,000 Revs now.

[WILDACEX187]

does the s14 turbo hold boost that high? when do u get boost fall off? my t25 feels like its dying around 6k

[s13silvia123]

Yes, you can set your rev limit to wherever you want. Mine is set at 8,000 Revs now.


thanks that all i needed to know. hoping i can let some fire come out of my exhaust.

[GreekRPS13]

Hey awesome setup really likeing it could you possibly PM me about it maybe if you get a chance cuase i was looking to buy the Power FC and maybe you could tell me some more about it like what functions it controls and what not and what you need to buy with it to run smoother thad really help me thanks

[Felon_Monk]

thanks that all i needed to know. hoping i can let some fire come out of my exhaust.

DO NOT RUN OVER 7000 RPM if you dont have Rocker Arm Stoppers (On the SR20's). well you can.. but you have a better chance of causing some catastrophic issues under your valve cover.. lol..
What it does:
The rocker arm stopper kit stops the base of the rocker arm (where it pivots on the hydraulic lash adjuster) from moving up and down at high revs, stopping your rocker arms from being sloppy, which stops the chance of the rocker arm from moving out of the rocker guide shim on the valve stem tip. This means that your engine will be able to withstand more revs safely without breaking rocker arms.

Edit: before i get spammed.. i know there are alot of people out there that rev higher than 7000rpms on their stock engined sr20s and have no issues.. but all it takes is that one time..

[s13silvia123]

dont worry about it i knew about that all along i'm doing some head work right now.

[kuramaya]

Tomei 256 Cams and Gears+Rocker Arm Stoppers+1.0 Tomei Head gasket = 8,000 RPMS's sounds mean as Fuck! and safe too (as long as your tune is on point)....It's good have a fast ass, high revving motor man. Beats the hell out of looking good hard parked, but for some that's their thing. 140 Horsepower is good for some. Me and the boys I roll with like Felon_Monk up there and ejkisela who has recently joined are all about the GO and DRIVING our cars! If you need any help feel free to ask. You can also Join http://www.zeroyon.com and learn a shitload from us. Just make sure you do an introduction thread first. You will never get yelled at to search either. But have thick skin, cause anything goes and we are hard on each other there. Tell them "kuramaya" sent you..
Late
Daryl

[s13silvia123]

yes you are right on but i'm going to the more aggressive side i'm going for the 272's or 280's < if i can find the 280's> valve springs, 1.2mm head gasket i wanna keep its like this ause i know i'll change somthing sooner or later if i go with lower cams.

[johngriff]

This thread is insane.

s13silvia123: 280's What turbo?

bjorkluv: 90% Inj duty cycle? (only 300whp?) Yeah no fun, on your power check, have the tech hook up an oscilliscope to an injector lead, and get an injector ms reading off of it. In my experience with the power fc: When setting new injector size information, the duty cycle output does not represent the larger injector increase. Too bad you didnt go Djetro, screw maf.

The shop that did your tune was an excel shop? Keep in mind that is the equivillant of XS engineering doing your tune here. How much did they charge for the tune? If you were using the AFC to control 550's before, then yes, your timing map was off, WAAAY off.

The power FC out of the box has a much more aggresive timing map than the factory ecu it replaces. Simply bolting it on will make more power out of the box. Timmig off EGT is so 1995, i suggest advance to maximum torque on dyno ftw.

Engine management selection can be difficult, make sure you have good support for the equipment you are purchasing.

I am excited to see your charts!

John

[kuramaya]

This thread is insane.

s13silvia123: 280's What turbo?

bjorkluv: 90% Inj duty cycle? (only 300whp?) Yeah no fun, on your power check, have the tech hook up an oscilliscope to an injector lead, and get an injector ms reading off of it. In my experience with the power fc: When setting new injector size information, the duty cycle output does not represent the larger injector increase. Too bad you didnt go Djetro, screw maf.

The shop that did your tune was an excel shop? Keep in mind that is the equivillant of XS engineering doing your tune here. How much did they charge for the tune? If you were using the AFC to control 550's before, then yes, your timing map was off, WAAAY off.

The power FC out of the box has a much more aggresive timing map than the factory ecu it replaces. Simply bolting it on will make more power out of the box. Timmig off EGT is so 1995, i suggest advance to maximum torque on dyno ftw.

Engine management selection can be difficult, make sure you have good support for the equipment you are purchasing.

I am excited to see your charts!

John

Thanks for all the scoop John. Gonna have to do another powercheck soon. My Manual (yeah your gonna tear me up for that) Boost controller isnt holding boost. I hit 1.16 for a second and then it drops to .8 and holds...acuator is ruled out, I am have HKS. I orderd the PFC control kit

.... shit man...I just realized you must have seen the POST Dyno thread..here is the thread
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=127786
Late
Daryl

[Felon_Monk]

Hopefully we can see about a dyno run this weekend.. That would be sweet. lol..

[kuramaya]

Oh yeah...the tune was done by a Guy that is an AUTH APEXi tuner...he knows his shit..and is cool with the Americans..which sometimes is hard to find with the big name shops here in Okinawa...

edit, IDK sat night is looking like touge night...

[WILDACEX187]

8k rpm? is the turbo still giving u power there?

[Hugh]

Actually, I'm running 850cc injectors on my stock tubro SR20DET. (everything else that bolts onto it is not stock, however)

You can push side feed injectors to 100% without making them fail. They typically hold up to a lot more abuse than your average top feed. It has something to do with the operation of the solenoid, or the design of the fuel feed into the thing... but they are saturation type injectors, and not peak/hold injectors. Tope feed peak/hold injectors will fail much quicker at very high duty cycles (according to everything I've read on them - I've yet to run them myself, and if I do, they will be huge injectors that don't require me to hit 100%)

550cc injectors are only safe to a little over 360hp unless you run really high fuel pressure (making idle difficult) or you run water/alcohol injection. I pushed 550cc's to almost 400hp using straight water at 270cc/min over 10psi. I don't reccomend this, however, as my tune was on the bleeding edge at 12.5:1 and my timing was advanced a lot. I ran typically 2 degrees advanced further than your average SR tune to make that power. If the water ran out, the motor would pop in a few seconds.

Going bigger on injectors is the smart thing to do. You can run a stock motor on 850cc's, so why not do it? Your gas mileage does not drop drastically as some people think it will. You only run the injectors at the required duty cycle, using exactly the same amount of fuel you would with smaller injectors at a higher duty cycle.

The advantage is that the 850's will be pushing only half their limit when smaller injectors run out. I've got headroom for days to grow into.

The injector duty cycle displayed by a computer is based on the fuel map. You can look at a fuel map on many standalone ECU's in injector duty cycle format. When I look at my Tec3's map, I can tell you exactly what my duty cycle should be at any given RPM or boost level... because its pre-determined in the map. I will know I'm going to hit 100% long before I ever do it.


As far as tuning the ignition map goes, I don't like the stock PowerFC map. When I tuned a few of them I pulled the whole map out and put in what I consider to be a safe and powerful curve. If you're street tuning, going with a proven map and then adjusting to compensate for exhaust temp and knock from there is a safe and viable way to tune for big power. Doing his I gained a lot of power over the intial map on Brett's 180sx, and wowed the guy at Odotec when he power checked it on the dyno and saw 363rwhp with a smaller turbo than he ran on his own 180sx. (and then Brett destroyed him in a few drag races)

Obviously tuning on the dyno for max torque is gonna be better, but some people don't have that option at hand all the time.

[kuramaya]

Oh Shit Hugh is here:aw:
I am gonna move to 740's soon enough. Probably in the Spring which is when I plan on changing over Turbos. Like the story goes, I shoulda got them before. Thanks for the great post.
Late
Daryl

[steve shadows]

your using an internal wg?

your calling this a race setup?

Internal wg are SATAN

get a top mount mani with a gt2860 with a gt30 housing....

seriously

what is the ground breaking or did i miss something?
:mrmeph:

+ IMO the power fc is one of the worst investments for somone in the states...

its just terrible

you can only use it with the HARNESS it is MOLDED for...and thats it

its resale value is poo poo, especially if you wake up tomarrow and no one wants to tune 240s anymore...

IMO go with something you can swap from car to car that comes standard with MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE and AIR TEMP readings

with fresh sensors, your high quality , japanese tuned motor deserves full control...

not data logit, power xl only or hacked software...

go haltech

[kuramaya]

Never said this was a race setup or racecar. I am on a busget. It is a stock S14 Turbo. I will go external gate when I can afford a better turbo. This car pulls nice as it is for now so I am happy with it. It has come a long way in the 2 years I have owned it. Baby Steps.
Late
Daryl

[S14DB]

+ IMO the power fc is one of the worst investments for somone in the states...

Wow you really pay attention to that fact that he's in Japan.


go haltech
Yeah it's only twice the price...

[Hugh]

Damn, Steve... little harsh?

He's living in Japan, and the PowerFC's are a dime a dozen over there. For the price, you just can't beat it in his situation.

I say forget Haltech, go Electromotive!:naughty:

[WILDACEX187]

daryl. pls tell me when ur boost starts to fall off :(

[kuramaya]

Thanks Hugh and S14DB, yeah the Power FC was bought solely on the fact that EVERYONE i know here has been bugging me to get one for over a Year. I have been running an SAFC II since 2 christmas' ago, and this is night and day, I love it I can actually be stopped on a hill now and not blow fuel when I take off anymore.

Also I do want a larger Turbo as well. But as I mentioned, money is not available for that now. I have dumped 10 Grand into this car already (5 was the car itself) if my wife had any clue of how much I have spent she would be on a plane back to Yamaguchi with my Son and Dog:ugh: Well maybe she would just be pissed for a couple days, but still. I save money in increments, just like I just bought the Power FC, had been sacing since August. 20 here, 20 there, you get the idea.
late
Daryl

[sr20tom]

i am ordering mine this week with the d jetro sensor so i can finaly get rid of that stalling MAF. I got the 550cc in there now and i made 320 rwhp on the GT2871R at 18psi. I cant wait to get the Power FC so i dont stall anymore and get that sick rev limiter so i dont have to look at the RPMs going sideways. Can I make more power with a tune and the PFC without maxing out my Apex 550s?

[WILDACEX187]

ok i'll stop asking

[kuramaya]

ok i'll stop asking


Sorry ACE...It falls off as soon as it hits peak, different times, different peaks. It's the controller. I can gurantee the time from the Dyno since we were watchig it was 1.16 BAR. Yes to asnwer your question earlier, the T28 can handle 8,000 RPMS of 1.2 Boost. After that you are pushing it from what I have been told. This is why I will boost at 1.10 or 1.15 once I get the PFC Boost Control kit. Sorry I missed your post.
Late
Daryl

[kuramaya]

Can I make more power with a tune and the PFC without maxing out my Apex 550s?


Hugh is more of an expert in higher HP's on the SR, but I think you are okay but will be pushing it much passed 320. 340 is what I have been told is the MAX to run on the 550's safely.
Late
Daryl

[S14DB]

The cons to running the 740's over the 550's? I saw the MPG mentioned?

[kuramaya]

The cons to running the 740's over the 550's? I saw the MPG mentioned?


Really I think there are no cons at all. Shit the prices are the same or close. I have even seen 740's go for cheaper than the 550's. For me, I went with the 550's since my Ultimate goal IS/WAS to break 300. As long as you have the engine management to tune the 740's I would think it would be a negligable difference fuel efficiecy wise form the 550's since you are still flowing the same amount of fuel according to your tune, you can just Boost Higher and flow more when you need it. Fuel on demand basically.
Late
Daryl

[johngriff]

740's over 550's.

Some "lesser expesive" injectors(740's) pop trying to idle an sr with cams with no IACV map correction. I think the better quality new design, and better solenoids do not have this problem. Basically the design of your nismo or nissan side feed does not seem to like 1.2ms time and lower. MPG should not really be affected at all, since an injector is not a static flow device, it is a dynamic flow device.

Haltech is $1475 for kit ready to go. (http://www.rpsport.net/product/RPSNISNS13-E8STRTKIT)

So... Make sure you have good idle motor and idle timing control, or you will be forced to idle high (1500+) to get a stable idle out of large cheap injectors with a cam.

Or just spend the money on higher quality injectors.

SR20Tom: I would most definately go 740's with that turbo if you are looking to squeeze out more power, on pump gas.

Hugh actually chimes in on zilvia, fucking sweet! :rawk:

[Hugh]

Injectors prices are not based on flow rates. It doesn't cost them any more to make an injector push 740cc than 550cc. It's just a larger hole, basically. Granted, for huge custom sizes you're probably looking at machine work being done by someone to make them flow higher.

You can idle just fine on 740cc injectors, but as mentioned above... idle can sometimes be a little rocky.

To smooth out an idle with big injectors and cams, don't try to run it near stoich. Run that bitch nice and rich and it will smooth out. I find that my car likes to rest somewhere around 12.0:1 at idle on 850cc's... thats at 1000rpm.

When I ran it on Japanese 100 octane, it had to idle even richer than that to smooth it out.... maybe 11.5-11.7:1

I had some preconceived notion that you had to idle at 14.7:1 or something. It turns out my motor wouldn't do it.

I don't have any IACV control at all. I have a Q45 throttle body with 'thermo-mechanical' cold start idle control. (for lack of an official term, thats what I call it) Anyway, the throttle body adjusts the idle as the motor warms up based on coolant temp through the throttle body. This sort of 'smart' throttle body is the same found on the later SR20DET's, and makes idling on a standalone very easy.

[kuramaya]

Hugh actually chimes in on zilvia, fucking sweet! :rawk:

Yep ZY is up in this bitch

[S14DB]

My thermo mech is screwed up. I think the previous owner disabled it by popping the spring off.

[Felon_Monk]

get your boost controller yet?

[kuramaya]

get your boost controller yet?

Nah, gotta have someone call yoshioka for me and check, wifey has no clue I ordered that shit:coolugh: Gonna roll my fenders tomorrow at the hobby shop at lunch. if you wanna cruise by, give me a call.

[johngriff]

I heard that the AVC-R was a better option (or any externally programable boost controller) than the power fc controller because it did not have as many functional controls. An apexi sales rep told me this.

[kuramaya]

I heard that the AVC-R was a better option (or any externally programable boost controller) than the power fc controller because it did not have as many functional controls. An apexi sales rep told me this.

I have heard the same. Heard the difference was negligable, but if given the choice the AVCR is the best. Thing is, with the PFC BC, thats one less unit in my car. I'm only gonna rock Oil Prs/temp guages now. Since the PFC has boost and water temp readouts. This will keep it clean inside.

[johngriff]

Yeah that and the PFC Controller kit is less expensive IIRC.