Sr20det Operational Tempertures

[scca_civic]

I got an S13 w/ the SR20DET... I have the factory temp hooked up and when warmed up or running hard, it stays in the middle of the range, doesn't differ very much. However, I installed an aftermarket sensor on the pipe where my thermostat is attached. It runs around 180-195 degrees on a very easy run, but will climb all the way up to 220's when horsing around. Could where I mounted it play a big factor in the temperature change - because it can literally be at 180 degrees and I can accelerate really hard and it will run up to 210 degrees in about 30 seconds, but it will also cool down that fast as well. But on a 90 or so degree day - at 70 mph - just crusing - it is right around the 215-220 mark, but the factory gauge doesn't reflect a change at all??? any ideas?

I have a large alum radiator and two 12" fans that pull 3200 cfm each...

[Cone]

The stock temp gauge isn't very accurate, it's made like that so it's not jumping all around all the time. If it did it'd freak people out and they'd go to the dealer and complain.

[King 240]

on average, my car runs about 80 degrees celcius (I have the power fc, so it reads only in C not F)
On a hot day its about 85 degrees, 90 if I beat up on it hard and constantly.

[johngriff]

This is the reason why high quality aluminum radiators like the fluidyne, PWR and ARC are worth their weight in gold.

A turbo charged engine creates allot of heat very quickly, and a radiators ability to quickly dissipate the heat during acceleration, as well as strong fans to back it up will help correct the issue you are seeing.

[projectRDM]

Above 200 is something to be concerned with. The OE system works fine at keeping temps right around 185-190 degrees. With cooling upgrades it should be even less. The OE cooling fan kicks on at 202, that should tell you something.
As for the OE gauge's accuracy, middle way on the gauge is anywhere from 165-245 degrees. Don't even bother looking at it unless you're just bored.

[GSXRJJordan]

above 200 is something to be concerned with?

First off, nothing is wrong with either of your sensors - it's normal for the in-dash to not move until 220+, and your aftermarket one is probably placed in a fine location.

Everyone knows the SR runs hot. You have a big radiator with a couple fans, thats great. [NOTE: There are other tricks besides a radiator and fans that can lower your temps about 20* F, like ducting and some Water Wetter] The fact that your have those mega fans doesnt mean much when you're at freeway speed - the radiator has plenty of air moving through it to keep the car around 180* F, which is very close to optimal for the SR. Those fans help a ton in traffic or while drifting/auto x'n at low speeds. That being said, as soon as you start boosting (a lot or for a while), the temps climb above 200, regardless of what cooling system you have - having watched my Pro-Comp LFG (supposedly one of the most accurate) very closely the past 6 months or so, I would say don't worry unless:
- you're driving normally, not in the boost, and see temps above 200 on a sub-90* day
- you're driving hard and see temps above 220

It takes A LOT to get the engine up to 220 with a big radiator, which is approaching the danger zone as far as water's ability to transfer heat. Water at "ambient" pressure starts to boil a touch over 235*, but any boiling starts to pressurize your cooling system, so even at 240* you're still getting cooling done. Anything that high really is bad on metal parts (gaskets in particular) and should tell you that you have a large problem.

I know this is a lot more than "my car runs about xxx degrees", but hopefully it helps make you more comfortable about seeing varying coolant temps.

[johngriff]

I have had better luck using Dexcool and distilled water vs water wetter... unless there was some great improvment with it.

What jeff said is pretty much right on target.

Describe the rest of your settup.