View Full Version : sr problems
rush20
10-08-2006, 09:23 PM
ok. so basically i am stumped with my s13. i have a 92 with a redtop.
I have had the car parked for 6 month due to licence being suspended. Before i parked it, it began to cut out around half throttle at random times. I read through the forums and narrowed it down to the oxygen sensor, CAS, or water temp sensor.
While the car sat i installed a
walbro 255 lph fuel pump
sard fuel pressure regulator
new bosch fuel filter from 300zx
denso iridium plugs
ran new vacuum and fuel lines where needed
water temp sensor
hcr32 Front and rear brakes
hcr32 lsd
300zx master cylinder
greddy coilovers
now two days ago i went out changed the fluids checked over everything for leaks and went to fire it up. it cranks over but wont start. now i have had problems with the relays in the past, could not tell you why, but the relay for egi pump when installed, the fuel pump will not prime when the key is in the on position. if I hard wire it without the relay the fuel pump will turn on but still wont start. please help me i have looked everywhere on the net. thanks
blkrps13
10-09-2006, 04:21 AM
have you looked at the ignitor chip??? As for the pump not priming are you running stock sr ecu or aftermarket ie PFC or emanage or something??? If the pump is not priming, check the ecu pin out and see if you get voltage at the wire that sends a signal to the relay, if you have power there its wiring to the pump not the ecu to the relay, hell replace the relay, check for power at the relay if no stay, its the relay, check the power at the pump if it gets signal then the pump is faulty, but basiclly just try to look for signal from the ecu all the way to the pump, if everything checks out ok then maybe your ecu is screwed... hope this helps... shoots...
rush20
10-10-2006, 08:12 AM
aight thanks man. ill try that.
cmcdougle
10-10-2006, 01:15 PM
How did you hardwire it? did you go straight from the battery, or just bypass the relay?
When you crank the engine, does the fuel pump run?
The first thing I would do is check the fuse, then change the relay.
[DRFT-S14]
10-10-2006, 03:59 PM
wuddup fellas im sorta running into a lil issue wid my sr in ma kouki... went drifting bout a month ago went to crank the car up 10mins later the car atomatically shuts off...i assumed it was the terminals loose as a goose as usuall but nothing happens...so home it goes on the back of a tow truck...i change out the only fuse that seems to be blown the 30 amp ignition fuse, but no matter if the car is being started or happens to stay on, that same fuse still seems to blow. iv checked all the grounds twice and found that the coil pack harness had a gash in it, at night i could see it shorting to the block... after swapping coil pack harnesses the car ran good for bout 3 hours then while driving, the car just shuts off. took it 2 ma buddies shop and tested the battery and the alternator and they both seemed to be in good condition...after that took it around and ran fine till bout 3 grand (full throttlte) when it would sputter then die...thats another fuse to add to the 30+ fuses the car already ate...went right back to the shop ther i find the harness to the starter switch was fried. just got da harness replaced and now its eating more fuses... and this is were i need help... any other electrical shtuff i should digg around 4...
statik
10-10-2006, 04:34 PM
']wuddup fellas im sorta running into a lil issue wid my sr in ma kouki... went drifting bout a month ago went to crank the car up 10mins later the car atomatically shuts off...i assumed it was the terminals loose as a goose as usuall but nothing happens...so home it goes on the back of a tow truck...i change out the only fuse that seems to be blown the 30 amp ignition fuse, but no matter if the car is being started or happens to stay on, that same fuse still seems to blow. iv checked all the grounds twice and found that the coil pack harness had a gash in it, at night i could see it shorting to the block... after swapping coil pack harnesses the car ran good for bout 3 hours then while driving, the car just shuts off. took it 2 ma buddies shop and tested the battery and the alternator and they both seemed to be in good condition...after that took it around and ran fine till bout 3 grand (full throttlte) when it would sputter then die...thats another fuse to add to the 30+ fuses the car already ate...went right back to the shop ther i find the harness to the starter switch was fried. just got da harness replaced and now its eating more fuses... and this is were i need help... any other electrical shtuff i should digg around 4...
You clearly dont understand how to use a forum, but since im posting, you have a short somewhere in your harness, check every connection that was made during the SR swap. Now, about these forum things, next time lets start by creating your own thread. To the thread starter: You say you can get the pump primed and it wont start, do you have spark?
rush20
10-10-2006, 09:55 PM
I tried both ways. when i went straight from the battery the fuel pump would stay on when i tried starting but would not go. just cranks and nothing happens. when i bypass the relay the fuel pump will come on but when you go to crank it over it goes off.
im going to buy a relay and check voltage from the ecu and from fuel pump tomorow and see what happens.
rush20
12-04-2006, 07:33 PM
I still cannot figure out what is wrong with my sr. now im getting fuel but no spark... while trying to figure out what is wrong with it i have replaced. Mafs, Cas, water temp sensor, and ignitor. i have also checked over my wiring harness for bad wires and shit. does anyone have any other ideas? i havent driven my car in along time, it would be nice :)
daryl337
12-04-2006, 09:04 PM
CAS, ignitor, spark wires, coils... and ecu... Look into them all. :)
fliprayzin240sx
12-04-2006, 09:06 PM
Have you physically checked for spark? Start off from the plugs back to the cas. Id say ensure the plugs are gapped properly, pull each coilpack out with the plugs and ground them on the block and check it spark. If theres no spark or its weak, swap it for another one of the coil packs to make sure its not the coil pack. If all try this process for all 4 coilpacks. If all 4 is acting up or weak, then work your way back to the ignitor chip. Again, you said youve replaced it but its still easy to get a bad chip. Try to see if somebody else got one and swap it, if it works, then theres your problem. Also make sure the ground for the coilpack harness is properly grounded. Sometimes people over look this lil thing.
rush20
12-04-2006, 11:22 PM
tomorrow I will start at the plugs and work my way back and see what i can find. someone told me to check the knock sensor, anyone know if it would be worth a try?
downshift_sideways
12-04-2006, 11:29 PM
is the fuel pump good? Take it out and have it tested for power.
EDIT: sorry I didnt read your previous postings..
rush20
12-05-2006, 12:49 AM
I have a new walbro 255lph and a sard FPR. the plugs are wet when i pull em. so im pretty sure im good on fuel.
rush20
12-06-2006, 12:10 AM
ok so i went out and checked to see if theres power getting to my coilpacks and there isnt. theres also no power going to the ignitor. i didnt have time go go farther than that it started to rain. any ideas?
also what exactly does the knock sensor do? thanks
ladiesman8527
12-06-2006, 10:43 AM
a knock sensor detects engine knock and sends a signal to the ECU. it keeps fuel from detonating. i doubt thats your problem. i'd find an ECU and swap it out and see what happens.
rush20
12-06-2006, 02:10 PM
ive been trying to find an ecu to try but, I dont know anyone local that has a redtop. anyone near seaside oregon want to help me out?
garbury
12-06-2006, 02:41 PM
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/garbury12/100_0345.jpg
crack open your ecu and look for a fried terminal in this exact location (pin 36). It pretty common from 12v wires in the engine bay grounding out.
http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabase/Nissan/Nissan_SilviaS13SR20DET__91_93_180SXSR20DET_91_95. pdf This will be your friend for that. If it is burnt, you can go to a tv repair/electrical place and have them fix it for about $25. If it is burnt, you have a grounded out wire, most likely maf or cas. I would fuse the 5 12v (5 amp) sources to save your ecu from further annihilation and to possibly buy you driving time until the wire grounds itself into metal permanently
rush20
12-07-2006, 02:07 PM
so my ecu looks fine. i also pulled my ignitor and there is 5.86 v going into it. then theres nothing after that. when i unclip the coil pack harness one of the 5 pins has power and it 5.80 v. i dont know whats goin on with this thing.
garbury
12-07-2006, 03:53 PM
Did you check to see if the ecu red light comes on when you turn the key to prime the fuel pump? I still think its your ECU if all systems the ECU controls do not get power. The burnt terminal I had was really hard to see, kind of like a "Where's Waldo". You could have a resistor burnt out as well and have no visual evidence.
rush20
12-07-2006, 05:27 PM
the light on the ecu comes on when i turn the key to the on posistion. when i crank it over the like will either go off or flicker. Ive been messing with it all day i cant figure the thing out. is there a relay or fuse that controls anything with spark? i really dont want to have to take it to a mechanic. im broke.
garbury
12-07-2006, 06:39 PM
yes, when I blew my ECU there was a fuse that also blew. It was in the engine bay labeled EGI, 7.5A. Not sure if you checked that one, I'm assuming so. That held me up a little while too. Thats as much as I know, but I'm sure the fsm shows the relays. I hope this works out for you man, electrical problems suck so bad but when they are resolved you appreciate the car so much more.
rush20
12-07-2006, 09:04 PM
im going to check everything over and get someone to help me out. thanks alot for your help.
bardabe
12-07-2006, 11:16 PM
ehhh make sure you didn;t plug in the fuel lines backwards. its a common mistake.
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