View Full Version : solution to sr20det manifold nuts backing off... ?
sepulchral
09-25-2006, 07:13 PM
some hick guy at the local napa near my school recommended using
Shake proof washers
http://www.bigtoolbox.co.uk/userdata/SPIC-401.jpg
these are internally toothed shakeproof washers, that scratch into the metal to help reduce possibility of a nut backing off..
the guy have me a handfull of these for free, they are some kind of nickel metal, i dont know if i should use it or not or are these worth a try if i got a higher grade metal ?
what do yall think?
blu808
09-25-2006, 07:26 PM
http://www.ben.com/tools/sp175plus.jpg
sepulchral
09-25-2006, 07:28 PM
no thanks, anyone?
sepulchral
09-25-2006, 07:31 PM
i welded my last turbo on to the manifold studs, it worked, but im not going to do it again.
fromxtor
09-25-2006, 08:40 PM
I say lock nut, we use them on aircraft brakes and they dont come loose. ;) That and maybe use a torque wrench and actually torque them, sometimes things have to be more than good-n-tite. :D
Btw before anyone thinks about flaming this post, I am an Aircraft Hydraulics System tech and have been for years. :nod
sepulchral
09-25-2006, 08:47 PM
what kinda locknuts??? nylon will melt, im sure locknuts wont work at all
GSXRJJordan
09-25-2006, 08:58 PM
yeah nylon or normal loctite goes to sh*t at the temps that exhaust manifolds hit.
Also, I dont know if I'd trust those little washers to hold the nuts on, because its the insane vibration that the turbos make that cause the nuts to back off... I just have a feeling that vibration is gonna come right through those washers.
What I've used is ARP hardened studs (I've had the studs break a couple times), with a special high temp loctite (2690 or 2960 or something, got it from allspec.com (sp?) with some soldering tools) and it's designed to maintain 100% locking ability at 240* C or something insane like that. Works well, but not perfectly every time... still looking for the wonder fix...
slideways2004
09-25-2006, 09:31 PM
i am having the same problem right now. and i want to get a better solution before i put the turbo back in the engine
HyperTek
09-25-2006, 09:36 PM
lock washers.. hmm i wonder why yours are backing off.. heat expands the metal, maybe your nuts arent tight enough?
sepulchral
09-25-2006, 09:40 PM
hyper: the heat expand, contracks, the nuts turn over time with constant vibration and the thermal expansion, lock washers ive used have seized up.. turning basically to normal washers... i think i may weld, dunno though.
SidewaysNJ
09-25-2006, 09:45 PM
i had that problem too...i used the red loc-tite on the threads, loc washers under the nuts and the best thing you can do is double nut the studs.....should never come loose.
TheSquidd
09-25-2006, 10:02 PM
Lock washers on mine, I've had bolts fall out. My car sounds like utter shit all the time. I hate these god damn motors.
blu808
09-25-2006, 10:29 PM
Im tellin ya the only effective way is to tighten everything up, and put a tiny little tack weld on the nut, stud, and turbo
bigOdom1
09-25-2006, 10:33 PM
wire them (post
DRIFTING_SIL_EIGHTY
09-26-2006, 12:09 AM
ive had the same problem before. with all the vibration from the motor/road conditions their bound to come loose. ive tried loctite, lock washer, and lock nuts. best way to keep em on is to tack weld it. or if your's was once stock and untampered (like mine) it came with this http://phase2motorsports.stores.yahoo.net/nisrt25tulop.html so either cough up the money or make your own. basically it goes like this.....manifold-> gasket-> turbo-> plate-> washer-> nut. then you bend the tab to lock the nut it place.
DONE !
hope this helps.
drifter808
09-26-2006, 12:37 AM
could look for the locknuts that use metal instead of nylon. I go a few of them but there 10mm size. meant for high heat. The nylon is basically replaced with 3 pieces of metal that lock it on. if you've seen them before then you know what im talking about if not it might be kinda hard to understand.
Also the locking plates help out alot.
fliprayzin240sx
09-26-2006, 12:51 AM
+1 Locking plates...I mean shiet if your so worried bout it, buy new plates from the dealers. I mean ive had that shiet happen to me too, got tired of it, so i bought fresh plates from nissan and slapped it on. Havent had any issues yet...
sepulchral
09-26-2006, 07:18 AM
wire them (post
wire them??????????????????????????????????????
TheSquidd
09-26-2006, 09:30 AM
Yeah I lost one of mine. Ugh It's such a bitch to take the turbine off.
My bolts on the manifold > turbine, turbine > elbow, and elbow > downpipe all back off. The gaskets are owned too. :rl:
statik
09-26-2006, 09:39 AM
+1 Locking plates...I mean shiet if your so worried bout it, buy new plates from the dealers. I mean ive had that shiet happen to me too, got tired of it, so i bought fresh plates from nissan and slapped it on. Havent had any issues yet...
agreed, dealer part, works perfect
3day240sx
09-26-2006, 01:18 PM
has anyone ever tired a lock nut of them. the nut is tapered in the treads so when you tighten it down it locks to the bolt. some are made with a piece of plastic to lock it on but there are some that are all steel.
TheSquidd
09-26-2006, 01:31 PM
I have steel locknuts on mine. They are loose. ;)
zenki-217
09-26-2006, 02:45 PM
Ive been havng this same damn prob lately and Im sick of it... I bought poly eurotheyne exhaust mounts hoping to calm down some of the shake now the exhaust wont move at all.. Just used some red loctite and has seemed to work so far has came lose this week anyways....
Any of you guys having this problem have the downpipe bracket mounted?
And what are these nissan locking plates you guys are talking about?
fromxtor
09-26-2006, 02:48 PM
theres all metal lock nuts that have are castlated and have little cuts to it wont back off. Or you could safety wire the nuts you already are using also. They look like this : http://www.gototem.com/Webgifs/ClipArt/Fasteners/LockNut.GIF you could probably get them at your local hardware store.
3day240sx
09-26-2006, 04:31 PM
has anyone ever tried stainless stell or chromeoly bolts and nuts.
sepulchral
09-26-2006, 05:13 PM
i ordered dealer parts... does anyone freaking know what these people mean by safety wire???
zenki-217
09-26-2006, 05:28 PM
i ordered dealer parts... does anyone freaking know what these people mean by safety wire???
Are they talking about maybe using a cooterpin?
projectRDM
09-26-2006, 05:33 PM
Safety wire or a small tackweld. The weld can always broken loose if needed.
mrk9182
09-26-2006, 05:50 PM
this is what you guys need
http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=15&cs=125&cm=70
they are prevailing torque nuts its basically an all metal lock nut. they are used in many OEM applications for exhaust mani and turbo studs
LB.Motoring
09-26-2006, 05:52 PM
i ordered dealer parts... does anyone freaking know what these people mean by safety wire???
wiring around it,
i would suggest the locking nuts, maybe with a combo of locking washers, or if you wanteded to go extreme, you could do like the machine studds do, and have a hole drilled tapped into the studd and you put a saftey wire through and pulled on the the nut...
GLuck
http://myword.info/images/lock_washer_1b.gif
anthony240
09-26-2006, 06:09 PM
cooterpin?
ROFL! good one!
it's cotterpin, and i think it's a smart idea
fromxtor
09-26-2006, 07:51 PM
This is the best civilian safety wiring guide i've found : http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm
Safety wire is a method used in alot of different fields to prevent nuts and bolts from coming loose due to vibration. Basicly you use nuts/bolts with holes drilled in them and wire them togather in a way that pulls tight (to the right) so if one nut/bolt tries to come loose it pulls the other to the right preventing threading off. :) Here's a few more, I use this on my F-15s so I'm pretty sure it will prevent your nuts from vibrating off.
http://robrobinette.com/safety_wire.htm
http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/safetywire.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?Ntt=safety+wire&N=-113344&part=MOR-62280&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch
TokyoNights
09-28-2006, 01:01 AM
I got these copper nuts at autozone where the top of the nut is cut halfway and bent up
plus added some lock washers
never had the problem again
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