koukie
09-15-2006, 11:18 AM
Here's an easy way to fix ur dash for all of those DIYers. Theres a product out there call Performix Plasti Dip that you can buy from Lowes and Home Depot in the paint section or from the Performix Plasti Dip website. In a nutshell, it is a rubber compound packed in a can that you can dip into. Another cool thing is that they come in Blue, Red, Yellow, Clear, White, and Black. They are mostly used for making grips on hand tools, protecting children from sharp edges, and any other needs you can think of. The good thing about this product is that they also come in an Aerosol spray can making it very feasible to rubber cover a lot of things.
**Link Deleted**
Now this works well on dashes that are mildly cracked with little nicks here and there. However, if you're trying to fix a badly cracked dash that seems like its been through a 6.0 earthquake, you're out of luck and might as well get a new one. Also note that if you have brown or shit-color or blue color interior and you want to convert to black, you can use this product to achieve the desire color, texture, and feel with a bit of grip.
On a bigger note, for those who have mild cracks and those who are swapping in an uncracked dash, the Plasti Dip should be used to prevent future cracks since the Plasti Dip pretty much act as a weld-made molded dash cover which can prevent sun damage and cracks. For those who are wondering what color and texture the Plasti Dip looks like, it is VERY identical to your dash color and texture. So basically you're getting a dash redone that will look exactly stock and not those ugly flat or weird glossy colors (something that can blind you while driving, that is why they don't make shiny dashes DUH!!!)
OK as you been waiting for, here are the instructions!!!
Tools:
3-4 x spray cans of Performix Plasti Dip
If you have a lot of small cracks, you might want to buy 4 cans
1 x Philips screwdriver to remove some screws
1 x Flathead screwdriver to remove vents
Each can is like 5 bucks, so total should cost you 15 bucks for 3 cans.
1) Prepare your work area with newspapers and make sure the area is free of breeze and dust or dirt because you definitely don't want shits in the rubber layer.
2) Clean the dash with a wet towel. Make sure there are no dusty or dirty spots left.
3) If you are changing dash, remove the VIN plate by drilling into the rivets and you can throw that VIN plate away. Later you can use screws to screw your car's VIN plate onto this dash or you can use rivets too. If you are not changing dash, also remove your VIN plate because you don't want to rubber paint over the VIN plate now do you?
4) Remove all of your vents (3) and any stuff hanging onto the dash that you
don't want to rubber paint.
5) This fifth part needs patience and time, so bear with it. You are going to paint the dash now. You will be painting about 4-5 coats depending on how much you use per layer. The flash time (or waiting period between each coat) is about 30 minutes. Also note that I will say wet, smooth, and flat over and over because it is for a reason if you want your dash to turn out good.
Follow the instructions carefully on the can and shake as you go. When you paint, make sure you get a WET and SMOOTH look before moving on, but not so wet that'll it will make runs or overlaps. A good tip here is that don't cover the finger you are using to press the spray can in the way of the nozzle, because your finger will collect rubber paint and it will droop all over your coat.
The distance between the spray can and dash should be about 6-8 inches and moving at a steady pace one line at a time back and forth. Press down the button on the spray can for a 4-5 seconds each interval and shake after. What we basically want here is a smooth and flat coat.
If you are trying to cover cracks, put a heavy coat around that area, but don't just point the can at that one spot for like 5 seconds. Go back and forth around that area too while trying to diminish the cracks. Say if you have two 4 inch hairline cracks in this one area, paint over those cracks and the area around it so you can get an even look, and not some noticeable bump. Also before painting over the cracks or nicks, try to make those surfaces flat by removing the broken or chipped layer off.
Yea, this part is pretty hard because not all parts of the dash is on an even level. Don't try to cover everything on the dash on the first coat and you shouldn't anyways because you might put too much in one spot which can results in a bumpy surface later on. Continue with each coat with a flash time of 30 minutes until you finish all the spots and cans. On the last coat you should try to make the coat as NICE, WET and SMOOTH as possible. This will results in a very nice texture and feel after it dries.
6) When you are finished painting your last coat, you should leave the rubber to cure itself for about 8 hours. Don't try to touch it or handle it. Just let it dry and takes its place
7) Now you can decide whether to rivet or screw your VIN plates in. I prefer just screwing it in, so in the future I can replace it easier.
8) After 8 hours and if you have done the last coat NICE, WET and SMOOTH as it can be, your dash should look AWESOME. Same color and texture as stock with a touch of grip. For about 15 bucks, you cant beat the price!!! Replace your dash and HAVE FUN!!!
**Link Deleted**
Now this works well on dashes that are mildly cracked with little nicks here and there. However, if you're trying to fix a badly cracked dash that seems like its been through a 6.0 earthquake, you're out of luck and might as well get a new one. Also note that if you have brown or shit-color or blue color interior and you want to convert to black, you can use this product to achieve the desire color, texture, and feel with a bit of grip.
On a bigger note, for those who have mild cracks and those who are swapping in an uncracked dash, the Plasti Dip should be used to prevent future cracks since the Plasti Dip pretty much act as a weld-made molded dash cover which can prevent sun damage and cracks. For those who are wondering what color and texture the Plasti Dip looks like, it is VERY identical to your dash color and texture. So basically you're getting a dash redone that will look exactly stock and not those ugly flat or weird glossy colors (something that can blind you while driving, that is why they don't make shiny dashes DUH!!!)
OK as you been waiting for, here are the instructions!!!
Tools:
3-4 x spray cans of Performix Plasti Dip
If you have a lot of small cracks, you might want to buy 4 cans
1 x Philips screwdriver to remove some screws
1 x Flathead screwdriver to remove vents
Each can is like 5 bucks, so total should cost you 15 bucks for 3 cans.
1) Prepare your work area with newspapers and make sure the area is free of breeze and dust or dirt because you definitely don't want shits in the rubber layer.
2) Clean the dash with a wet towel. Make sure there are no dusty or dirty spots left.
3) If you are changing dash, remove the VIN plate by drilling into the rivets and you can throw that VIN plate away. Later you can use screws to screw your car's VIN plate onto this dash or you can use rivets too. If you are not changing dash, also remove your VIN plate because you don't want to rubber paint over the VIN plate now do you?
4) Remove all of your vents (3) and any stuff hanging onto the dash that you
don't want to rubber paint.
5) This fifth part needs patience and time, so bear with it. You are going to paint the dash now. You will be painting about 4-5 coats depending on how much you use per layer. The flash time (or waiting period between each coat) is about 30 minutes. Also note that I will say wet, smooth, and flat over and over because it is for a reason if you want your dash to turn out good.
Follow the instructions carefully on the can and shake as you go. When you paint, make sure you get a WET and SMOOTH look before moving on, but not so wet that'll it will make runs or overlaps. A good tip here is that don't cover the finger you are using to press the spray can in the way of the nozzle, because your finger will collect rubber paint and it will droop all over your coat.
The distance between the spray can and dash should be about 6-8 inches and moving at a steady pace one line at a time back and forth. Press down the button on the spray can for a 4-5 seconds each interval and shake after. What we basically want here is a smooth and flat coat.
If you are trying to cover cracks, put a heavy coat around that area, but don't just point the can at that one spot for like 5 seconds. Go back and forth around that area too while trying to diminish the cracks. Say if you have two 4 inch hairline cracks in this one area, paint over those cracks and the area around it so you can get an even look, and not some noticeable bump. Also before painting over the cracks or nicks, try to make those surfaces flat by removing the broken or chipped layer off.
Yea, this part is pretty hard because not all parts of the dash is on an even level. Don't try to cover everything on the dash on the first coat and you shouldn't anyways because you might put too much in one spot which can results in a bumpy surface later on. Continue with each coat with a flash time of 30 minutes until you finish all the spots and cans. On the last coat you should try to make the coat as NICE, WET and SMOOTH as possible. This will results in a very nice texture and feel after it dries.
6) When you are finished painting your last coat, you should leave the rubber to cure itself for about 8 hours. Don't try to touch it or handle it. Just let it dry and takes its place
7) Now you can decide whether to rivet or screw your VIN plates in. I prefer just screwing it in, so in the future I can replace it easier.
8) After 8 hours and if you have done the last coat NICE, WET and SMOOTH as it can be, your dash should look AWESOME. Same color and texture as stock with a touch of grip. For about 15 bucks, you cant beat the price!!! Replace your dash and HAVE FUN!!!