Solex Locks

[FaLKoN240]

Has anyone put these locks on their cars? S Chassis? I've googled them, ebay'd them no results.

Do they just not make these for our cars?

Anti theft is going to be the new fad.:hahano:

[punxva]

well they look like a good idea, but as everybody knows, if they really want the car they can get it other ways, it doesnt look too hard to install either. I've never seen them on a car but maybe someone else has.

[krustindumm]

worst idea ever. No one who knows what they are doing will go through the lock cylinder. Takes 30 seconds to slim jim a car (w/power locks, 45-60 w/o) with the correct tools.

http://www.lockpickshop.com/p-Auto-Wedge-Kit.html

slip the wedge between the window an the weather strip (on frame less windows, like 240s, its really easy), a lil silicone spray helps, pump it up.

grab the lock rod tool, slip it in the gap and hit the unlock button. done.

without power locks, it is a bit tougher, gotta bend the rod into a U shape and catch it under the unlock lever, then twist the handle. done.

Why spend any time fiddling with the lock cylinder?

[note: I worked for a service station that ran service calls for people who locked themselves out. I have never and will never break into someone's car with the intent of theft.]

If you really want some security, look to the civic guys. Civic's are super easy to break into as well.

The remote door locking kit came from JC Whitney. It's designed for cars that don't have power locks. Came with 2 actuators, 2 remotes, the "brain" and all the hardware you need. Cost was $69.95.

The steel rod is available at any hardware story. Just drill a small hole in the end to connect the actuator to the rod.

The threaded tube from the "Lamp" section of the hardware store. Just find the right ID to be able to slide the steel rod into it. I found the large nuts in the same parts bin, there's one on the inside of the door and one on the outside (visible in photo). Be sure to threadlock these.

1) remove the inside door panel and carefully pull back the plastic.

2) Drill a hole in the door, the proper size for the thread tube. Install the tube and nuts.

2) After cutting steel rod to the proper length, I just dabbed a little paint on the end of it, closed the door, and fed it into the steel tube (from inside the door) until it touched the door frame. The paint on the end showed me where to drill on the door frame.

3) Install actuator and connect it to the steel rod. The kit came with some rods about the diameter of a coat hanger to make the connection. The tough part was just lining everything up correctly. Mae sure you test it before you button it all up and make sure that the rod slides smoothly in both directions and that it doesn't catch on the door frame.

4) As for the "emergency release", I just used a piece of picture hanging wire and connected it to the steel rod where it meets the actuator. From there, I routed it through the door to a place that's hidden, but accessible if necessary. Now if the battery dies or the actuator fails, just pull the wire and the deadbolt opens. It'll be up to you to decide where to route it to.

Here is the deadbolt unlocked:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/pdb4651f26f19ff38930ce355684d74a3/fdd038c1.jpg

Here is the deadbolt locked:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/p4d66cd9734a6bc244c36004009d1368c/fdd038c4.jpg

Here is the hole in the door frame that the deadbolt slides into when the door is closed:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid18/p6490b01cbba9880ba8e9c8b220df00ad/fdd038c5.jpg

The one thing I won't reveal here is my "emergency" method for getting in. If the battery went dead or the actuator failed, I needed a way to still slide the bold out of the door frame. You guys can develop your own methods, just think "wire". Think "fuel door release" for inspiration.

It's simple, but it's a good, effective system to prevent break ins. If anyone's interested, I can post a parts list and where the stuff came from. Total costs, maybe $75 and $70 of the was the remote locking kit.

I would have mounted the lock actuator inside the car, not the door. Either works better than factory though.

[projectRDM]

I had a friend do a similiar thing with his old GTi, mounted a 75lb linear actuator in the quarter panel making a 4inch long deadbolt rod about 2inch in diameter. The only option was to break the glass and go through the opening, which someone finally did, but they still never got the door open.

Another idea I did was to remove the inner rods within the door altogether so you can't open the door manually with the lever, it has to be unlocked with the actuator. Then you can wire in a relay to open the unlock circuit from the door lock switch so when the alarm is armed the switch does nothing. Triggering the SECU unlocks the door and closes the circuit once again so it works regularly. Pretty easy, but again any type of deterrent is only going to pis the thief off more and make him more determined.

[O3DigitalBath]

haha to the deadbolt post....I remember when that was orginally posted on ht.

anyway, after thinking for a while about the deadbolt idea...it didn't seem like it would be all that great. I mean yea they won't open the door, but its easy to grab the window and shake it off the track (it falls down) and they just jump in.

i'll be looking more into ignition and fuel cuts of sorts...

[FaLKoN240]

When I think of anti theft, I'm looking at theft deterence. Whatever it takes to deter theives from my car.

[ispypsi]

ignition and fuel kills are definitely the way to go with anti-theft. 6 windows, 2 doors and a hatch sometimes is more than enough to get into a car.

theft deterrence works only if the car is in an area with often presence of the public. for short periods of time. long periods of time gives the thief so much more room to work with.

i could care less if they broke a window or got the door open and wanted to take whatever's in there (not much), but i'm much more satisfied knowing they won't get the car.

but you gotta think, if they really want the car, they're going to get it. good thieves do recon, and they find a smart time and way to get it easily. the best thieves use tow trucks, no hassle, just hook up and go. so much for the wheel boot, they'll just drag it on up too on the flatbed. plus its easy to take cars with towtrucks, people dont question them all that often, they'll assume the car is broken or something, and often times in apts/condos and such there are strict parking rules, so tow trucks are a regular sight and people dont bat an eye to it. when i see someone's car getting towed if i know who it is, i always go ask them to make sure, esp if its a modified car or something that's often stolen. i would only do it if it was a sketchy looking tow driver, but 99 out of 100 tow drivers are sketchy as hell looking so i dont take the chance to ask.

some thieves some how have access to keys as well, getting to dealers with a VIN# can get you a key i hear sometimes, but i believe most places hav cracked down on that or made it more secure before just getting one made, so those locks would make it harder for them to just waltz up and get in like they owned it.

i've seen those locks on a car before. pretty sure it was a honda too lol.

[AN89HATCH]

I had solex locks on my corolla, and i hated them!! 2 locks broke, and would not let me get the key into the door locks. I could not lock my doors and open them with the key