Full Paint job questions for those who have experience in this area...

[Siizzzoooo]

Well its about that time I put the car in the paint shop now that I'm almost done fitting everything.

anyways, I'm looking to get a full oem ultra red repainted or a minor shade change to maybe a burgundy-ish

Though, I have a few concerns which I'm not too sure about.

I went to the my body shop where I get my stuff painted and full paint jobs begin at $1800. The bad thing is it does NOT include removing any sort of windows or any jambs and whatnot.

I absolutely DO NOT want any tape lines.

My question for you guys is if the windows HAVE to be removed, or is it just the moldings that need to be removed?

Just from looking at my front end rear glass, it appears that they can be peeled back and MIGHT be ok. I'm not really sure, but if the moldings are removed, must the glass come out as well?

The door and rear 1/4 glass molding looks like it needs to be removed. If that is the case, is glass removal necessary for the rear 1/4 glass? or could the molding just be removed, and glass taped off? Same question, if the moldings are removed, must the glass come out as well? My brother told me that there is some sort of ledge that the glass sits on, but he wasn't 100% sure either.

I want to go to the shop with a clear vision of what is needed. That way I get what I want without any problems. Attention to details is what I am after.

I am willing to buy new window trim if necessary.

well anyone with suggestions or things to watch out for, please go ahead and throw out some advice

Thanks guys:cool:

[s14xman]

i'd say remove the seals and get new ones. mask the windows urself as well as anything you don't want overspray on!!! Overspray will get everwere so mask it good or make sure they do.

[rps13sr20det]

just strip the car yourself and then ask how much for the paint job...saves you a ton of money

[Team Rootbeer]

^agreed, do the prep yourself, very easy.......

as far as the windows/moldings go, im pretty sure the window moldings on the quarter glass are encapsulated on s14s, so that means the glass has to come out w/it, and that means more than likely the molding will get fucked up with it...and on the rear glass, all i did was buy the apeture(sp?) tape that goes under the molding to lift it up, worked well......and same w/ the windsheild moldings,......i just taped over the quarter moldings tho, just be extra carefull when you do it and you wont get overspray.......


the body shop should remove all non-sealed glass, ie: door glass, before taping/spraying.......if they dont, then you need a better shop

ive painted a few s14s before, and could go on and on w/ some tricks ive learned, so feel free to pm me with questions

o, btw, you better make sure your getting TOP quality products if you're paying $1800+ for a spray job, especially if your car doesnt have any repairs.......

[blackflag_Rms13]

Shit $1800 is steeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep pricing...

[S13SilviaGirl]

My car was painted at PJ's and I stripped everything at home. I took the back seals off the windows, thinking they were a cheap replacement... HAHAHAHA I was WRONG.

The stripping for the back 2 1/4 windows on the coupe are only sold with the window (already installed on the window). You buy the window and the stripping then have the windows replaced. Cost for EACH window $335 NOT including re-installation. I say let the stripping stay, a good paint body shop wont leave tape lines.

[Siizzzoooo]

well this shop isn't your average shop. they do lots of restoration on corvettes and old school cars so I'm very confident in their work.

I was hoping to get some more precise answers as far as the windows go...

I'm not after a $500 Maaco job, but a near oem fit and finish quality job, so if it costs that much extra...so be it

[Jonnie Fraz]

Shit $1800 is steeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep pricing...
There is an old saying..."You get what you pay for!" Anyone who has looked into painting there own can tell you product will cost you at least $200. If you want top of the line PPG you will be spending $500 per gallon, and that is with my cool dude discount.
I would spend some time with your painter and ask him what he thinks, he will be painting your car and can tell you what to expect, also you can relay your concerns.

[Johny5]

yo sizzooooo, when we painted my dumpster we used rope technique under rear window mold, where you peel it up then place like maybe 10-12 ga. wire underneath the trim, that allowed enough space to paint under where it was gonna go back then just remove the wahhhhhre. on the rear quarter we did a really good tape job and that turned out just fine no tape lines. on the doors obviously you've figured out that you can remove everything down to the metal. and the front window we used rope technique again. all in all i cannot see unpainted areas on my car (thats a huge pet pieve of mine as well) and everything turned out pretty strong. except where i got a huge chip on my roof already :\ but man best of luck with your paintjob. its a huge ass hastle of an experience but damn in the end its mind blowing.

and the price isn't bad, at all. i paid almost 2 g's for mine w/ tinted clear and all that yadda yadda non-sense. for $1800 min. may go up to like 2500 with a nice nice paint and man thats seriously not bad for a good full paintjob jambs and all. btw shave everything :)

[Siizzzoooo]

yo sizzooooo, when we painted my dumpster we used rope technique under rear window mold, where you peel it up then place like maybe 10-12 ga. wire underneath the trim, that allowed enough space to paint under where it was gonna go back then just remove the wahhhhhre. on the rear quarter we did a really good tape job and that turned out just fine no tape lines. on the doors obviously you've figured out that you can remove everything down to the metal. and the front window we used rope technique again. all in all i cannot see unpainted areas on my car (thats a huge pet pieve of mine as well) and everything turned out pretty strong. except where i got a huge chip on my roof already :\ but man best of luck with your paintjob. its a huge ass hastle of an experience but damn in the end its mind blowing.


well if that is the case and would work in my situation as well, I might go ahead and see if thats what their technique is. I don't mind paying for them to do it, but if I can get by and not have to pay them to remove the windows, then I'm not going to


and the price isn't bad, at all. i paid almost 2 g's for mine w/ tinted clear and all that yadda yadda non-sense. for $1800 min. may go up to like 2500 with a nice nice paint and man thats seriously not bad for a good full paintjob jambs and all. btw shave everything :)

I agree, the price isn't bad to me neither. I plan on shaving my trunk lid spoiler holes and antenna. I'm thinkin about shaving the 3rd brake light, but I'm not sure...

but I will get a more precise estimate once I bring it up there next week.

keep the advice coming :cool:

[Neejay]

Sorry to be off topic, but Siizzzoooo your car is clean as hell man. Clean and stock looking. Good job :)

[Siizzzoooo]

lol well, this one not so "stock" looking anymore, thought I have a couple of other S14s that are...haha

still waiting on my wing, but other than that, it will be like it is

[Team Rootbeer]

+1 for the shaving of third brake light
i went ahead and did it, glad i did now....so much cleaner
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y119/teamslideshow/buildupprt1041.jpg

[hipro]

I have done it both ways, with glass in and with glass out. I like glass out because you can fix everything. The S14 rears are relatively easy to remove, much easier than S13 coupe or hatch rears. When you get the glass out, you can see where any potential problems/rust spots are, taking care of all issues before painting. Just exercise caution in removing the glass and don't damage the seals as you are cutting the bead under the glass. If your front and rear glass and molding are in good shape, and you are not doing a color change, I would leave those in place; for a color change, I would pull all the glass.

[Neejay]

lol well, this one not so "stock" looking anymore, thought I have a couple of other S14s that are...haha

still waiting on my wing, but other than that, it will be like it is
Ah, ok. I was going by your cardomain page, but I see that was last updated 1/06. lol.

[Johny5]

yo sizzzo check it, uras style wing just says no to 3rd brake light homey

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/kidnrg/chit.jpg

oem bumper is fucking gay, can't wait until my aftermarket rear is done being repaired!

[VROOOM]

the place i got my old 240 painted at had a sign in the office that said "Good paint jobs ain't cheap, cheap paint jobs ain't good" but a good paint job can make a HUGE difference.

[PITCH]

You can strip most of the car yourself. That's what I did. The only thing that wasnt removed by me was the rear quater, and front and rear windshield glass. The moldings, bumpers, mirrors, headlights and trim + weatherstripping was removed by me. I did the bodywork and laied down the primer. I had someone shoot the paint.

[Siizzzoooo]

how easy was the side door and window moldings, and front and rear windshield moldings to remove and reinstall? and were they reusable after removing them?

[Siizzzoooo]

yo sizzzo check it, uras style wing just says no to 3rd brake light homey

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/kidnrg/chit.jpg

oem bumper is fucking gay, can't wait until my aftermarket rear is done being repaired!

that shit is hott son! :drool:

[rcapili]

yikes..toe-in rear?

[alexchanman]

what do you mean exactly by "full paint job"??

[InlineS13]

They make tape that you can use for all of the molding. It's got a piece of plastic and the end of the tape, you slide the plastic in and pull back the molding. I used some yesterday. And 1800 is cheap as shit. For a good paint job, you would go into the negative charging that low. Well...good luck with that dude.

[hybrid_eg]

yeah 1800 for complete paint job is cheap as hell if you they will give you an OEM finish.. reputable shop and so on.. take out windows all the way around.. basically do it right.. here in CA.. at a decent shop you're looking anywhere between 2500+.. depending how picky you are.. of course i dont even wanna go into those 500 dolla deals.. with paint you definitely get what you pay for unless you're having a friend do it as a favor.. for which i'm sincerely hoping :-) 300 bucks for an entire professional re-spray.. basically a favor my friend owes me and i kick him down some money for materials.. rest on him.. otherwise there is no way in hell i'd be painting it.. unless i was just sitting on 3K and really couldnt figure out what to do with it :-) good luck i hope they do your car right!