Exedy Stage 2 Clutch Issues - High Engagement

[slider2828]

Hey Everyone:

Maybe people can help me out here. My clutch has a really high engagement and if I tap the clutch a little pass the free play, the clutch disengages. Basically the clutch engage is REALLY high. I turned the fork rod pretty close to the end of the nut that is on the peddle, but its still really high still. There is about 2mm of free play between the switch(button out) and when the clutch pedal feels a little resistance. Any ideas? Please? Clutch is slipping alittle now. Thanks..

Clutch has about 5k miles, just upgraded to GT2871R, has clutch fluid is a little dirty....

[[email protected]]

sounds like you should be running a pedal stop to limit the throw of the pedal and you are hyperextending the pressure plate...

you have to put a pedal stop in place... lift the rear end of the car with it turned off... put it in gear (2nd etc)... have someone try turning the rear wheels, push down on the clutch pedal, when the rear wheels start to turn easly, set the pedal stop about 1/2-3/4" lower then that point...

There is a way you can either jump the clutch start trigger or you can add a bolt to the clutch pedal to hit the trigger...

[slider2828]

Is the pedal stop basically the switch that tells the engine to allow it to start when it is pushed in? or is it the rubber piece that contacts the metal tab on the clutch pedal which stops it from being depressed too far down?

Also my problem is that the clutch engages very high basically the last 1/3 of the final distance before I am completely let go of the clutch pedal. Is this normal Jason? Thanks

[zenki_240sx]

had the same problem with mines. but mines worst its a brand new exedy stage 2 clucth for some reason when i take off on first slowly, it would make a griding noise and you feel it too in the pedal. does anymone no why its like this?

[HKsilvia]

i have the same problem with excedy stage 1 too, its disengage really high, especially in hot temperature, i was told that it may caused my the clutch's master and slave cyclinder gets old, and since the spring rate of the clutch is different then the OEM one, it may cause you a problem because the fluid can't transfer efficiently. there is not much part for the clutch system so it might be it. I want to change mine but my financial situation didnt allow me to. :(
i may wrong, if so correct me.

[Monkey Boy]

well i did change my master and slave when i did my clutch which is a dual friction centerforce. you have to adjust the pedal rod that goes to the pedal to the clutch master.

[NIK90s13]

Other than bleeding it if you haven't, i would agree with HKsilvia.

[slider2828]

Yah I think it's just how the exedy's are. I just bled the clutch last night with a vacuum bleeder and got every single bit of air out of it. When I installed my engine, I did get a new slave cylinder. Although it leaked a little at the beginning it, seems to NOT leak any more. Well the clutch is slowly going away, so this is probably the last time I will every buy a stage 1 or 2 exedy. Pretty crappy clutch didn't use it for more than 10k miles. God unless there is something wrong, I don't think it could be my master or slave. If anyone has any other ideas? Yes the rod has been adjusted to have 2mm of play from the top stopper.

[[email protected]]

Is the pedal stop basically the switch that tells the engine to allow it to start when it is pushed in? or is it the rubber piece that contacts the metal tab on the clutch pedal which stops it from being depressed too far down?

Also my problem is that the clutch engages very high basically the last 1/3 of the final distance before I am completely let go of the clutch pedal. Is this normal Jason? Thanks


Its normal with alot of clutches to have a shorter throw, usually the higher clamping force clutches etc...

MOST race clutches require shorter throw...

Here are some pictures of a pedal stop in my 350Z... But they function the same way... You see the pedal stop bolted to the firewall and a bolt and couple nuts on the clutch pedal to press the trigger... (essentially the same set up you will need on a 240...)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/PerformanceNISMO/Car%20Stuff/newimage1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/PerformanceNISMO/Car%20Stuff/newimage4.jpg


This will also help the life of the clutch... as your ceramic disc's wear out, the engaugement point will become higher and you will have to adjust the pedalstop as well...

[slider2828]

O REALLY WOW THANKS jason... THanks for the pics... Yah I understand what exactly you are saying. Also I have this stage 2 exedy clutch ceramic disc I assume, how long is it supposed to last? SR20DET with a 2871R at 16psi... its starting to slip in 4th... about 8-10k miles on it? is it suppose to wear that fast? if so do I need to replace the pressure plate or can I just replace the puck disc and resurface the flywheel? One more question, I have a fidanza Fly on it, do you guys sell the replacement surface? Thanks!!

[[email protected]]

Well, how long it lasts depends on how much you slip it under initial engaugement (starting from a stop)...

If you didnt hyper extend the pressure plate so much that it reduces clamping force, then you can just get a new disc *(exedy does sell them (and we sell exedy as well)*

We also sell the fidanza flywheel surface replacements as well...

With the clutch you have, I do not have personal experience with to see how long it will last you... I have seen cerametallic clutchs last anywhere from 3000 to 30000 miles, it depends on the driver really...

Ultimately, if you get the car going without hearing the flywheel and clutch disc scrape on eachother (the squeeky sound) then it will last longer...

[NismoSilvia270R]

theres alot of good info here. i just got a new disk and pressure plate in. i noticed when i torqued the PP that the forks became depressed. so instead of sticking out, they are flat.
this causes the slave to extend to its limits to even reach the fork. i remembered reading about someone putting a socket behind the slave pin, but it reaches alright without it.
my problem is the same as above, despite pedal adjustments.
is it that my PP is beat?
it seems that the PP is 'always' hyperextended and weak. im thinking its the wrong PP and it should sit farther away from the flywheel so that the fingers arent depressed before the clutch pedal is depressed.

if this makes any sense to anyone, input would be good. thanks.

[nrg]

here's how you fix the problem. you must bleed your clutch system again. but FIRST you have to adust the push rod on the clutch master cylinder. turn it all the way down. If you cant, then just release the pressure on the slave cylinder, then get into the car and adjust the push rod all the way down. now bleed your clutch like normal. what this does is "reset" the starting point of the push rod. so you have more room to adjust. Now you can go and adjust with more tread on the push rod.

the peddle stop only adjust the stopping point of the peddle. I have mine lined up with the brake peddle.

[NismoSilvia270R]

here's how you fix the problem. you must bleed your clutch system again. but FIRST you have to adust the push rod on the clutch master cylinder. turn it all the way down. If you cant, then just release the pressure on the slave cylinder, then get into the car and adjust the push rod all the way down. now bleed your clutch like normal. what this does is "reset" the starting point of the push rod. so you have more room to adjust. Now you can go and adjust with more tread on the push rod.

the peddle stop only adjust the stopping point of the peddle. I have mine lined up with the brake peddle.

ill try this in the morning. thanks.

[NismoSilvia270R]

eh.. ill have to look for another clutch setup. i adjusted the full length of the rod and it engages in the same manner no matter where on the pedal stroke it engages.

[slider2828]

Yup.... it kinda sucks that manuf. don't tell you these things and then your clutch goes because of the hyper-extension of the PP. Man.... Maybe they do it on purpose.

[kouki_s14]

hmmm so jason do you have any idea whats going on with mine? i might also be hyperextending my pressure plate.

i have the exedy hyper single plate clutch kit
when cold my engagement on the pedal is midway, but after driving awhile and it warming up, it catches right up at the top of the pedal play. i thought it might be the heat from the turbo and engine heating up the clutch fluid and making it more pressurized, although i do have a SS clutch line.
i cant seem to fix it, any ideas?

[slider2828]

I know that when a clutch heats up the plate material causes more of a slip, therefore harder to bite to the flywheel. It might be that... 1st question is do you have any play at the top? Like 1-2mm off the top stopper? Like I have talked about and jason has talked about?

[nrg]

NismoSilvia270R and Kouki_s14. i had that same exact problem!! i removed the damn LOOP on the clutch lines and bleed my lines. fixed it!
I even made a thread about it a few months ago LOL.
it seems like the loop had tons of air in it, even after bleeding like 20 times.

[kouki_s14]

nrg- i have no clutch dampener, if that's what you're talking about

slider - i have absolutely no play in the pedal, it is stiff from top to bottom when warmed

[NismoSilvia270R]

i have ss line and damper-delete. there is a mil or two of play, until i feel feedback. then it disengages right away.

slippage around 4500k

[nrg]

with a twin plate clutch or a very hard pressure plate. it's best to use a nismo slave cylinder. Did you guys try to do a gravity bleed?
nismo and kouki s14, mine did that same thing. It took me a month to fix it. i must have bleed 2litters of fluids lol.

[kouki_s14]

with a twin plate clutch or a very hard pressure plate. it's best to use a nismo slave cylinder. Did you guys try to do a gravity bleed?
nismo and kouki s14, mine did that same thing. It took me a month to fix it. i must have bleed 2litters of fluids lol.


been there done that
i've got a speed bleeder on a nismo slave. i even bled the speed bleeder like it wasnt one and it didnt help