weird problem with coilpacks maybe?

[k2fender]

Okay, so I've been having a lot of trouble getting my s13 redtop to run right. Yesterday I was testing spark in the coilpacks. I put a screwdriver in the number one cylinder's coilpack, had someone try to turn the car over and I couldnt see any spark or anything. I tried it again while applying a little pressure to the coil inside the coilpack, and this time the car turned right over, but cut out right away. I put the coilpack back in and tried to turn the car over again. Nothing. I took it back out and put a little pressure on the coil again with the screwdriver and it turned right over, but cut out life before. I fixed the CAS timing, so that should fix the idle problem. I've checked grounds, checked wiring, and everything. I think it may be a short in the coilpack. Any ideas? Ive been having a lot of problems with the car randomly turning over. Sometimes I would crank it and nothing, other times it would turn right over. I need help asap. I'm ordering coilpacks tomorrow unless it sounds like im completely wrong.

[k2fender]

I tested some stuff with a mulitmeter today and found out some more stuff. I found out I am getting good voltage to the coilpacks. I am also getting the correct voltage to the plug that goes to the coilpacks, along with the plug that goes to the bottom of the ignitor chip. I tried a different ignitor chip to see if that might be the problem. Still no spark. There is a possibility that the ignitor chip i tried might have had a problem but it should be fine. I tried a different ECU, still nothing. I am also having a problem with the clock on my guage cluster. It flickers on and off when i turn the key in the ignition. I think it may be my wiring harness now. I guess it could have became damaged sitting in the engine bay and getting moved around while I was working in the bay. Anyone have any ideas before I go ahead and get another harness? I really dont wanna end up buying a harness and installing it and that not being my problem.

[RPS1392]

Check and recheck your ground points. Ive bought cars for next to nothing because they dont run. Later to find that the ecu/engine ground points are disconnected or corroded. Other than that do you know anyone you could borrow a coilpack from to test your theory?

[k2fender]

Grounds are good. None of the coilpacks are getting spark now. I don't see how they all could have gone bad when they all worked beforehand. The flickering light on the guage cluster that I talked about is also leading me to think that its wiring. I'll double check grounds again though. Any thoughts on anything?

[Gramentz]

How's the ground look for the coil packs? (the one on the back of the head) I know you mentioned that the coil packs are getting power, but how are the coil packs themselves? Take each coil pack out, disconnecting the plug, and with your multimeter check the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. If you're holding the coil pack so the pins are facing you, 1 is on the left and 2 is in the middle. The resistance should be around 1 ohm. (mine were around 1.3 ish).

Is the ECU throwing any codes?

Did you test the CAS itself via the FSM? Is it properly aligned?

What spark plugs are you running?

[k2fender]

How's the ground look for the coil packs? (the one on the back of the head) I know you mentioned that the coil packs are getting power, but how are the coil packs themselves? Take each coil pack out, disconnecting the plug, and with your multimeter check the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. If you're holding the coil pack so the pins are facing you, 1 is on the left and 2 is in the middle. The resistance should be around 1 ohm. (mine were around 1.3 ish).

Is the ECU throwing any codes?

Did you test the CAS itself via the FSM? Is it properly aligned?

What spark plugs are you running?
Ground for coil packs is good. I regrounded it to clean metal on the chassis temporarily just to make sure it was perfect. I haven't checked the coilpacks out themselves yet. My main reason for doing so is, I dont see them all going bad at once. Like this. None of them are getting spark. I'll check the resistance tomorrow though. I havent checked to see if the ECU is throwing any codes yet either. I will check that tomorrow as well. The CAS is aligned properly and set to 15 degress. I should probably check to make sure I am getting power to the CAS also tomorrow. The plugs wouldnt be sparking if this ended up going bad. I'm running NGK Iridium plugs gapped at .30. Any other ideas on things to check out? Thanks...

[k2fender]

Where in the FSM is the procedure for testing the CAS. I couldnt find it. Page number would help. Thanks.

[Gramentz]

EC-111-EC-112 is for the CAS. Definitely check the ecu codes though, it will most likely put you in the right direction to begin your troubleshoot.

What heat range are those spark plugs for? Check to see if its throwing a code, and we'll work from there.

[k2fender]

EC-111-EC-112 is for the CAS. Definitely check the ecu codes though, it will most likely put you in the right direction to begin your troubleshoot.

What heat range are those spark plugs for? Check to see if its throwing a code, and we'll work from there.
ECU isnt throwing any codes. Only code was 55 which means no code. I checked voltage to CAS and it's getting what it needs. The spark plugs are heat range 6. Which is what I need since I'll be running no more than about 12lbs of boost. Any ideas or does this sound like wiring?

[k2fender]

I took out the whole wiring harness today and cleaned all the plugs with electrical cleaner and checked for loose wires. I reinstalled it and the flickering clock light problem is gone. Still not getting any spark. The only things I can think that would be causing this problem now are the CAS or the coilpacks. Any ideas?

[Gramentz]

When you checked the voltage at the CAS, did you remove it, turn the key to ACC, rotate the CAS by hand, and watch the voltage fluctuate?

See if someone close to you has a spare set of coilpacks that you can test out, otherwise, check for stripped wires. Maybe there is/are a few wires that are exposed near the firewall, or where the harness runs across the front of the head to the CAS and the MAF. Just a thought.

[k2fender]

What should I be looking for in the voltage when i see it fluctuate? Just to see if it does fluctuate or any particular numbers? I'm trying to track down some coilpacks. All of my buddys with sr's daily drive their cars and I rather not run the risk of possibly shorting out one of theirs if thats what happened with mine. Thats the only way I can see all 4 going bad. All the wires are good. I completely pulled the harness out today and checked it over.

[Gramentz]

It's somewhere in the EC section, I don't recall the exact page. What you do is remove the two bolts holding the CAS in, pull it out, shove the red probe into one of the terminals, and the other on an engine ground. Turn the key to accessories, rotate the CAS by hand, and watch the voltage on the multimeter fluctuate. I believe it should range from .1V to 5V. Obviously the faster you turn it, the faster the readings will vary from .1 to 5.


AH, EC-201. Test that..

[k2fender]

CAS is fine. Tried a different one today, and still didn't get any spark. I'm gonna test the coilpacks as soon as I can get a hold of some. Any other ideas?

[Gramentz]

Did you check the coilpacks according to FSM?