View Full Version : easiest way to remove carpet
Ricks15
04-06-2006, 08:20 PM
what is the fastest way to remove the stock carpet? I want to rip mine all off completly starting from the back of the seats to where the pedals are at. If anyone can post up a pic of a fully stripped out 240 that would help a lot.
g6civcx
04-06-2006, 08:25 PM
Drop the dash and remove the seats.
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/sucker1.JPG
Ricks15
04-06-2006, 08:30 PM
so to start ripping the carpet I outta start from the edge and make my way up. I think Ill half ass it taking the dash is to much work. Plus I daily this car so It wont give me enough time to put the dash back together.
NMS1lvi4
04-06-2006, 08:30 PM
i just gutted my 240. i just cut around the center console to get it out
oh and try to cut underneath the center console a lil in case you want it in again you can tuck it underneath
Ricks15
04-06-2006, 08:32 PM
one more thing what chemical do you think would be good to remove the old carpet glue that will be stuck on the tar.
g6civcx
04-06-2006, 09:21 PM
The dash isn't hard. I drop it once a week to fix something. Go figure :)
VitaminT
04-06-2006, 11:51 PM
You don't HAVE to take the dash out. The carpet is seamed behind the dash support so if you reach up there and rip it on the seam.
On the tar removale...dry ice. But to be honest if it is a daily driver I wouldn't take either out. I mean why? 15lbs doesn't matter THAT much.
OMGWTFBBQ
04-07-2006, 12:45 AM
http://www.cbswords.com/images/uc1130.jpg
fastest way
Ess14
04-07-2006, 05:47 AM
G6 that is nice is that yours? You removed the bar along the frame and stuff I see does that mean the dash cant even be put back on now?
I would remove the center console and trim at least if your removing the carpet -- It's hardly difficult.
The seats are pretty much a must and are incredibly easy to take out anyways.
g6civcx
04-07-2006, 07:50 AM
Yes, that's mine. I removed the crossbar to install a new heater core. It's back in now. Everything is back together.
The reason I say remove the dash because the carpet with composite sound deadening runs behind the dash. It's not tar patches. It's held on by plastic trim screws. You can just pull it out.
You don't need to drop the dash. You can just cut the carpet as far as you can, but the best way to remove the carpet is to drop the dash and remove the seats.
It's really dirty. I took it out for cleanliness reasons. It also weighs a lot as well.
Ess14
04-07-2006, 09:56 AM
Yeah I re-carpetted my 240 a couple days ago with a molded carpet from online. Straight black carpet looks 20x better than stock it turned out awesome.
And you put everything back together? Did that take several days? All the wiring that was removed I would think that would be a huge task.
Airbag back in?
Did you leave the tar sound deadening?
Anything at all you completely removed?
g6civcx
04-07-2006, 10:07 AM
It took me about a week working on and off. I probably could have done it in several days if I worked straight through.
The wiring is complicated but wasn't that bad. I completely redid the body harness, eliminating every wire I don't need and checking those I do need.
It's SOHC so no airbags. Good thing because it's less complicated.
The tar is still in for now. The previous owner started scraping them off but I'll have the interior properly grinded down and painted later.
All the interior from the B-pillar back has been removed. The only options I kept on the car was rear defog (not for long after Lexan is installed), power steering, and 2-speaker radio (for listening to the traffic report). Obviously all the lights and turn signals need to be there for it to be street legal.
The auto seatbelts weighed a lot. It has B12 Sentra 3-point belts now. The seatbelt ECU and wiring also weighed a ton. Saved almost 25 pounds in wires and harnesses alone.
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/rewire2.JPG
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/sucker2.JPG
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/WeightReduction.JPG
i8yourfwd
04-07-2006, 11:22 AM
The dash isn't hard. I drop it once a week to fix something. Go figure :)
haha I know the feeling.. I must've done it 5 times in a week one time.. XD
VitaminT
04-07-2006, 04:25 PM
Can you give me any pointers on where to start working on the body harness? I have gutted from the b pillar back and have removed all the tar patches. It has been a while now and I want to work on the harness to remove most of the rear wiring. Keeping basically the fuel pump and rear lighting and thats about it. I am currently only running a stock radio and front speakers.
NemeGuero
04-07-2006, 04:31 PM
Damn g6civcx, thats some handy work there.
g6civcx
04-07-2006, 04:39 PM
Off the top of my head, these are the wiring that runs to the rear of the S13 beyond the exterior lights and fuel pump:
* Antenna (rod & glass integrated in rear windshield)
* Automatic seatbelt wiring
* Rear defogger
* Rear speakers
There really isn't a huge need to go through the harness. I did it to reduce complexity for reliability. I'm also rewiring the whole car so I went through every single wire. You don't really need to do it. You can save a little bit of weight if you're careful.
If you still want to do it, I highly recommend you download the FSM from zeroyon.com and get familiar with the EL section. The best way is to unwrap the factory tape and looms. Chances are they're dirty as hell. Pluck out all the harnesses you don't like and pull out all the wires as far as you can.
Nissan uses stupid crimp-on wire connectors. You can clip off the wire you want and retape the connector back up. Nissan also uses stupid retaining clips that are a PITA. Just be patient with them so you don't damage anything.
Tape up your whole harness after you're done. Slip on wire looms. I prefer to use zipties to hold them to the body and out of the way, not the stupid retaining clips.
If you can take some pictures of your harness I can highlight what you can safely remove.
Before and after shots of the engine harness. Properly rerouted on top of the strut tower instead of letting the tyre chew it up. Much tidier and less strays :)
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/BeforeHarness.JPG
http://g6civcx.angryhosting.com/S13/Tech/AfterHarness.JPG
VitaminT
04-07-2006, 05:13 PM
Thanks for the advise. I have a copy of the fsm on my computer but up until this point am only very familiar with my SR engine harness. I figured it was just a matter of unwrapping everything and weeding it out.
I also have manual belts so I am wanting to get rid of that wiring. Hmm maybe I will start on this on Sunday when I have some time. Again thanks for the help.
Ricks15
04-07-2006, 08:31 PM
Now where can I buy DRY ICE here in socal? at the market??? I really got to rip off everything from my interior like right now!!!!!!!
g6civcx
04-07-2006, 08:34 PM
S13 wiring is pretty easy. All the systems are pretty much standalone. Nothing is tightly coupled to the ECU so you can yank as you like.
PM me if you get stuck. I don't think you will though.
Ad-Rok
04-08-2006, 03:34 PM
Yeah I re-carpetted my 240 a couple days ago with a molded carpet from online. Straight black carpet looks 20x better than stock it turned out awesome.
And you put everything back together? Did that take several days? All the wiring that was removed I would think that would be a huge task.
Airbag back in?
Did you leave the tar sound deadening?
Anything at all you completely removed?
Hi guys,
First time poster on these FANTASTIC forums, I apologize if this has been answered earlier, but I guess I'm just looking for a little encouragement. I too bought a molded black carpet from an online store and am about to get to stripping my interior, but I'm a little hesitant.
I've looked at the FSM body and interior section and I'm a little scared that with all the plastic "poppers" I'll break them trying to remove panels. Plus, I've never gutted an interior before...
Any tips for putting a molded carpet in without breaking anything when I remove it? I'm also planning to put some heat and sound insulation down, secured with aluminum tape.
Thanks much,
Adam
VitaminT
04-08-2006, 07:45 PM
Yeah there are a few pop clips that hold the carpet in place under the front edge of the back seat. I think there are also some in the middle maybe under the front seats. You will have to remove the bracket at the rear of the console, seat belt ecu just in front of that and the ebrake handle. I don't think I broke many pop clips but if you do they aren't that expensive at the dealer or autozone.
I dyed my factory carpet black in a 33gal garbage can with hot water and rit dye from walmart. Entire project took about an hour to do and a few days to dry (less if you remove that padding/sound fluf backing). Cost was under $10 I think. Looks 20x better now.
On adding sound deadening that is up to you but there is a good bit of it already on the metal and the carpet has that 3/4" pad on the back. I did see where Enjuku racing on their race car put some of that gold foil on the underside where the downpipe goes to reduce the heat which is a damn good idea because I removed the padding on the carpet and sound goo there and it gets hot.
Oh well maybe some of that will help you in your quest.
Ad-Rok
04-08-2006, 07:54 PM
Oh well maybe some of that will help you in your quest.
Good advice, thanks man. I'm thinking that I will look and see if the roll padding I bought (basically a dynamat replacement) is needed and make a judgement call when I've got the molded carpet in there. I got both from stockinteriors.com, in case anyone was wondering.
Note to others doing this on a '91 -- I stupidly cracked my dash as I was starting to take it off even though I was following the excellent instructions here: http://www.jdmrice.com/tech/dash/dash.html. So, I decided to put the dash pieces back on and rip/cut the carpet where I can't get to it.
I'm about 3 hours into the project and literally found squirrel acorns under the back seat and carpet. It's now painfully obvious that the previous owner did not give a crap about his interior, so hopefully my new carpet and new Sparco Torinos will dress things up nicely.
Thanks again for the advice!
-Adam
EAS13
04-10-2006, 12:35 PM
Dry Ice in So. Cal?
I got some in North Hollywood, across from the metro station on Lankershim.
A quick google search turned this up, you can probably find somewhere near you from this list:
http://www.partypop.com/Categories/Ice_Dry_Ice/Los_Angeles_CA.htm?CFID=4339732&CFTOKEN=72707685
Also, I think welding supply stores have dry ice, it's possible there's one near you.
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