Boost adjustment preferences??

[sean350z]

After a bunch of research on Zilvia, Freshalloy, and others I've seen a large debate on 'which boost controller is the best'. Currently I'm debating my own choice as to what I want to control my boost with on my stock S14 SR. Knowing that my setup is stock now, I might in the future upgrade to a GT2871 which will necesitate more boost...so do I plan for the future or just go actuator.

1. HKS Actuator - $99, no boost creep, solid but limited to .9 - 1 bar
2. Blitz Dual EBC - best results shown in holding boost in past tests, 400
3. Apexi AVC type R - seems to be a favorite on Zilvia, not digging the scramble crap, 450
4. Greddy Profec S - simple to use, cheaper, old technology but tried and true
5. HKS EVC EZ - super technology, easy to use, cheaper than Blitz and Apexi

Which would you choose if you had to do it all over again?

[Cashizslick]

^ You need the HKS actuator if you wanna safely control boost up to 1 BAR.

I have a Greddy Profec B spec II with the remote switch & the HKS Actuator kit.

I'd say its pretty good as far as EBC's go, but it does have its drawbacks.

1.) The instructions on how to properly tune the gain functions suck.

2.) The unit will display either kPA or PSI, but it will only let you chose your desired boost pressure and boost response (gain) on a % basis.

3.) If you interact with the unit, the warning light (for limit) wont go off anymore although it is still working (you have to turn it off & on again to get the warning feature back). . .this is good or bad depending on if you want to hear "beep beep beep" everytime you get near your desired boost pressure.

4.) I would advise against adjusting this unit w/out an extra boost meter because there is no way to fine tune for boost spikes on a digital display.


Pro's of the PBSII

1.) It looks cool

2.) It's reliable (once its set properly, w/or w/out the warning functioning properly it holds true to the settings you have input on both the Lo and Hi modes.

3.) The remote switch is badass. Its great when you need sudden bursts of power and dont wanna take your eyes off the road. It comes in real handy.



OVERALL: I like it, but its a bit frustrating at times.

[Angel]

Forge Motorsport adjustable actuator, 4 different springs plus the adjustable turnbuckle coupled with a Forge Motorsport Unos ball and spring mbc. I use these on my GT2871R.

[drifter808]

im running the HKS one and its a great deal for the money. the only drawback is after you test the boost level you have to wait for the turbo to cool before you can touch the actuator. And if you run the wastegate hose into the cold pipe and then "T" it into the intake you can hit any amount of boost you want. I know from having my lines wrong. with no excess lag, it will still spool at 3000.

[DoriftoSlut]

GReddy Profec B spec I (not the lame spec II). The new Profec S is back to basics (aka a Spec I with cooler looks). The Spec II sucks.

Anyways, this is the industry-standard for reliability, ease of use and consistancy. Sure, it doesn't have crazy features, but take it from me, my roomate has an e-01 linked with e-Manage and it NEVER works how it should.

Get a Profec B spec I or Profec S, a boost gauge, and leave all the fancy-pants bullshit alone, it will only cause problems. I have never spiked, even with high gain, and I'm running 1.1 bar on a t3/t04e. No slouch, my car hauls ass and has no boosting problems.

[Maeda]

The e-01 works, just the profec spec b 1 or s work better.

for less money!

[sean350z]

hmmm well i have a boost gauge (defi link) so i don't need the display...

is this the actuator you were talking about?? Forge Motorsport Actuator (http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0001&product=FMACS14B)

once you got the GT2871 did you have to make a custom bracket for it?

seems the actuator might be the best, reliable, but least 'on the fly'

[sean350z]

plus i'll be running the wastegate from the hotpipe and was going to be hooking up the Defi between the pressure regulator and the throttle body....i'll probably be reading an incorrect pressure b/c greddy intercooler and piping...

anyone else have experience with the forge motorsport actuator??? and where could you find one of these (seems they are out of the UK)

[DoriftoSlut]

???? Run the greddy Profec vac. line from after the TB, then tee it off and run the boost guage from that same line so your gauge and your EBC read the same boost.

Fuck actuators and all that crap. I ran 1 bar fine on my previous turbo (stock S14 t28) with no actuators.


Internal wastegates are the SUCK anyways. Get rid of that shit. Ext. gates for life!

[sean350z]

Fuck actuators and all that crap. I ran 1 bar fine on my previous turbo (stock S14 t28) with no actuators.

Internal wastegates are the SUCK anyways. Get rid of that shit. Ext. gates for life!

hahahahahaha to point...not going external though (would require a new manifold + me welding shut the arm + wastegate = overkill for me right now)

i'm just going to stick with the internal wastegate and look into the forge or hks one.

[DrtyRat]

Great thread....maybe some of you w/more knowledge can chime in

[DoriftoSlut]

Oh i'm sorry, I don't know anything. I wished for it in prayer and Peter Popoff delivered me 350 hp, i didn't do it myself.

[Angel]

hmmm well i have a boost gauge (defi link) so i don't need the display...

is this the actuator you were talking about?? Forge Motorsport Actuator (http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0001&product=FMACS14B)

once you got the GT2871 did you have to make a custom bracket for it?

seems the actuator might be the best, reliable, but least 'on the fly'

Yes, although not that exact one, but of that same design. If your 2871R comes with an actuator you could just reuse that bracket with one of those assemblies, or Forge can get you one complete with bracket. If you go to www.forgemotorsport.com you can easily contact the US office. While true that actuators aren't suited to "on the fly" adjustments, if coupled with a good Manual or electronic boost controller they can be a worthwhile upgrade and help you to reach and most importantly mantain higher boost levels. External is the ideal way to go for various reasons but not always practical or cost effective....

[Angel]

Oh i'm sorry, I don't know anything. I wished for it in prayer and Peter Popoff delivered me 350 hp, i didn't do it myself.

OH ultimate god of boost and drift, can you please grant me the wisdom to improve my pathetic attempt at boosted s chassis motoring? I see that not only did you run 1 bar on your T28 but you also managed 350 hp... On Purpose! Show us the way great one.

Chill dude, there are several ways to go about this that are worthwhile. And since he is doing research he is looking for multiple opinions/case studies, not just yours... don't try to play up your accomplishments as special, or unusual, because they are not, my car isn't either... anyone with a little bit of cash could duplicate either one, and they could even do it with a different boost control scheme than either of us are running. I know, it's crazy right? The mind boggles.

[DoriftoSlut]

I'm just defending myself... apparently i don't hav e enough knowledge to contribute to the thread according to some people.

I've seen first hand at track the following:
AVCR: overboosting peice of garbage.
SBC- iD: Nice boost holding, but i HATE the interface, and it's expensive as shit.
HKS EZ: Copied Greddy Profec B
Apexi PFC boost add-on: crapped out and would not allow the car to boost.



All of which support MY OPINION that you should just get the most reliable and proven boost controller out there: Prfec B spec 1 or Profec S. HKS EZ is basically the same thing, but more money.

MBCs... the gain SUCKS. boost creep all over the place and good bye to spool time.

[Maeda]

After personally USING almost all major boost controllers i'm still sticking to Profec b spec 1.

Easiest and most relable i've ever used.

Are you all happy now?

[Cashizslick]

GReddy Profec B spec I (not the lame spec II). The new Profec S is back to basics (aka a Spec I with cooler looks). The Spec II sucks.

How so?

I run the spec II w/no complaints other than the minor ones i listed :)

[DoriftoSlut]

Well take the complaints you listed. Then subtract them.


That's the Spec 1.

[SpeedMonkeyInc]

+1 Profec S
No fancy lights, readouts or goofy stuff to set up. Easy to install, and so long as you dont screw that up it works great. Set it and drive.

[Cashizslick]

+1 Profec S
No fancy lights, readouts or goofy stuff to set up. Easy to install, and so long as you dont screw that up it works great. Set it and drive.

What is the readout on the Profec S's dials? Is it in Kpa or in PSI?

[sean350z]

it's just min/max with dots....no fancy stuff there....just get a nice boost gauge to compliment it. i'll probably buy an hks actuator then when it comes time for higher boost go with the S

[sideview_180sx]

BTW spring style wastegates usually lose there efficency after 1 Bar, for those of you considering running the actuator setup. Which is why you run an EBC, a MBC won't compensate for change in temp controls and more prone to spikes and creep. If you want to have an integrated guage +1 for EVC, AVC-R, and Profec S. Bling = EVC. Nitty gritty and does the shit rite Profec S. AVC-R does, spike witnessed all sunday during drift circuit. 1.2 Bar was limit, spiked to 1.7 a few times.

[sean350z]

well just so happens i ended up finding a brand spanking new greddy profec b (the original) so i'm going to go with that

[nismostate]

Blitz Dual EBC - best results shown in holding boost in past tests, 400

got a deal on one of these. anyone got experiences with one of these?