Subframe Spacers - I overanalyze everthing...

[AuburnRyan]

So I know I want some rear subframe spacers to rid some slop...now the question is, will I notice any difference in comfort between aluminum spacers and polyurethane like the energy suspension pieces?

If I got the polyurethane, I'd be wanting to cut out a portion on top pieces so I could slip them in without dropping hte whole thing...not smart?

And since you've read this far and I haven't been keeping up on people's comments, tell me who makes the best/cost efficient spacers...


Thanks :love:

[jobestudios]

I am by no means an expert in this field, but the way I interpret it is as follows.

I wouldnt cut a polyurethane bushing because if you want to slide em on, just buy the collars that I've heard about.

Aluminum and Polyurethane are very different, poly urethane still has play, it doesnt have as much, but there is still play, and the difference between them and aluminum is huge, because aluminum has no play.

but i dont know what im talking bout

[DriftSpecial180]

I just got the energy master bushing set. It comes with polyurethane "inserts" for the rear subframe. i also have SPL "collars" in there right now. I plan on using the inserts and collars to hopefully eliminate the slop. The Inserts actiualy go around the bushing and the collars go above and under the bushing.

[sideview_180sx]

I have the 8-piece auminum inserts. DO it!!! don't wuss out, metal is better. You don't get grinding or anything from metal -to-metal contact, but it does firm up the feel of the car considerably.

[P4rD0nM3]

Lol at '...don't wuss out...'. Get aluminum!

[krustindumm]

I have the 8-piece auminum inserts. DO it!!! don't wuss out, metal is better. You don't get grinding or anything from metal -to-metal contact, but it does firm up the feel of the car considerably.

If you're telling him to not "wuss-out" then why did you? SPL sells solid aluminum bushing replacements...not just inserts.

[DriftSpecial180]

If you're telling him to not "wuss-out" then why did you? SPL sells solid aluminum bushing replacements...not just inserts.

He didn't "wuss out", homeboy. I have the SPL ones... its just 8 pieces of aluminum that "insert" around the bushings...

You were confused...

[AuburnRyan]

Oh my god- now you've got me going agian - LOL - search, analyze, search, analyze....

I was really just planning on the collars for ease of install...how important are the inserts or new replacement bushings (i.e. aluminum)? Will the collars take out the slop, or di I neeed more, more, more..... :2f2f:

Car is a daily and see's very little track time...

[axiomatik]

He didn't "wuss out", homeboy. I have the SPL ones... its just 8 pieces of aluminum that "insert" around the bushings...

You were confused...

SPL sells both aluminum inserts and complete bushing replacements made of aluminum. Sounds like you just have the inserts.

[DriftSpecial180]

SPL sells both aluminum inserts and complete bushing replacements made of aluminum. Sounds like you just have the inserts.

I see...ooopppsss

[MadScientist]

Only a few companies make the Uerthane because you have to drop the entire sub-frame to install, therefore the sell less. These are way better for Daily Driving and some weekend warrior.

The Aluminum is easier to install if you get the notched ones... if your hardcore you can get true Solids and remove the bushing. These are good for Daily Driving but can be harsh... excelent for Weekend and Full Time Warrior.

Dropping the Full Subframe is NOT a walk in the park. I highly suggest the use of a Lift, and leave the Wheels ON... this makes it soooo much easier to lower the car onto the subframe. I have done this in a driveway with several Jacks... I almost lost my thumb!

Peace
Drew

[jobestudios]

yay, I love tech school with the lifts/air tools..., I think I may go with solid full aluminum then :)

anyone have any personal stories on going full aluminum for daily driver/backroad touge?

[evoandy]

if going full aluminum, dropping the subframe isn't the only hard part... Removing the stock bushings is a biatch.

[McRussellPants]

Dropping the Full Subframe is NOT a walk in the park. I highly suggest the use of a Lift, and leave the Wheels ON... this makes it soooo much easier to lower the car onto the subframe. I have done this in a driveway with several Jacks... I almost lost my thumb!

Peace
Drew

Getting the subframe out and in with shit bushings or shitbushings with collars is easy as hell.

Its the full aluminums that get bitchy since you have to line them up perfect and then go around tightening each side to keep it from wedging.

I got the full aluminums.

If you have a loud exhaust or an N/A KA with any exhaust the diff whine doesnt matter.

The clunking is bad though if you have a crappy diff. if you have a good one it only happens in first.

[ka_kid]

well polyurethane spacers doesn't necessarily mean you have to drop the whole subframe, check out peak performance's rear subframe bushing spacers, the upper spacers are slit for install without dropping the whole subframe.

[bing]

i just removed my subframe and i sell slotted collars and full bushings, aluminum only.

slotted collars are a WAY easier install and will make a difference. However, after driving my buddies car whom i gave full aluminum bushings to i decided that i have to have them.

btw, you slot the bottom piece, not the top piece.

you drop each bolt and let the corner of the subframe sag. you can place the whole collar over the top bushing and then you squeeze in the slotted collar around the bushing underneath. easy peasey

[AuburnRyan]

Bing -

Are you sure the bottom is slotted, not the top? :ughd: Look at Daryl's (BjorkLuv or something) writeup in the FAQ...I don't see how the bottom would need slots- remove bolt, insert clooar on bottom, and replace bolt...

[bing]

yeah you're prolly right now that i think about it...

i havent done it since august soo..

[byhi]

1. buy the spl subframe collars

2. you dont have to drop the subframe, jsut lower it like 1.5 inches, its like 10 bolts total

3. the whole swap takes about 40 misn to an hour

4. it will be the best 85 bucks you ever spent

[krustindumm]

if going full aluminum, dropping the subframe isn't the only hard part... Removing the stock bushings is a biatch.


Only took a couple hours with basic garage tools, BFH, prybar, butane torch, chisels.

Torch the bushing and pound out the center, pry out the rubber, chisel out the sleeve.

[$D$]

putting the spl solid ones in was a nightmare, definatley more solid though

[Muzzy]

i hear lots of stories about the alum. collars makeing noise when driving like squeeking when cornering and braking. i was thinking about going with the peak performance collars from phase2 that are urathane. http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/pepeursubu.html they eliminate some slop but dont produce noise like the alum. ones.

than again....i do have a blitz nur spec exhaust and i do listen to music kinda loud at times..with a small sub. u think i would notice the noise of the alum. collars?????

[WILDACEX187]

would putting grease around the aluminum collars stop the squeaking?

[AuburnRyan]

I'm going with the peak unit because I'm a wuss, and want whatever silence I can save...I hate clunking LSD's...LOL

I'll reply back here with my opion after install.

[McRussellPants]

Only took a couple hours with basic garage tools, BFH, prybar, butane torch, chisels.

Torch the bushing and pound out the center, pry out the rubber, chisel out the sleeve.


The Torch is useless.

Take a C clamp and tear the center out.

Use a saw to cut two notches in the top of the bushing case center.

Pry the notched lip up.

Hammer a screwdriver / punch in between the casing and the subframe.

once it goes all the way through it will just fall out.

I spent like 2 days trying to do it with the torch and cutting the bushing shell out. I spend 20 minutes doing the other three my way.

[bing]

I'm going with the peak unit because I'm a wuss, and want whatever silence I can save...I hate clunking LSD's...LOL

I'll reply back here with my opion after install.

just get the ebay gear... it isnt like it is any different from anyone else.

they are just hunks of aluminum no matter where you buy it... save your money.

hell, i have like 8 sets of the slotted collars here now...

[axiomatik]

I think he is talking about the poly ones

[bing]

eeeeeeeeewww... why?

just get the collars then. you retain your stock bushings anyways so there is still some give.

i just pressed in the full aluminum bushings into my subframe this evening.

[AuburnRyan]

Correct - I ordered peak urethane collars from Phase2. Keeping the stock bushings, but hope to firm it up.

Now the car won't start - *crying* :faint:

[Muzzy]

yay!! hey let me know how those work out(poly)!!!! i've been wanting to get them.
im eagar to hear about them

[bing]

Ryan you are a total wuss.... check out where the true ballers are at:

http://bings.ca/images/pink1.JPG

http://bings.ca/images/pink3.JPG

full aluminum bushings, my own brand of multi-link, modded D2's, pure-virgin pink, lots more to come...

[SoSideways]

Ryan you are a total wuss.... check out where the true ballers are at:

http://bings.ca/images/pink1.JPG

http://bings.ca/images/pink3.JPG

full aluminum bushings, my own brand of multi-link, modded D2's, pure-virgin pink, lots more to come...

True ballers wouldn't be running cheap D2s :spank:

Heh.

Anyways, what's modded on the D2s?

[Muzzy]

oh shit son!!!! in your face!!! bangin on your lame ass D2s!!!!

ballers dont have cars that vibrate like fuk and their girls complain about it.
obvioulsy ryan doesnt want a really harsh/squeeky ride much like me. its our daily cars we are working on. we jus want a better ride/response.

[Slip&Sliden 240]

I daily drive mine with, KTS coilovers, welded diff, and collars. Its not bad at all. I love the way the car drives like this. If your smooth with the throttle around corners it feels real good.

[S14DB]

I got these off eBay:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Suspension/SubBush.jpg
Wasn't that hard to drop the sub-frame once we got 2 jacks in play. One for each side at the lowest points of the sub-frame. They fit perfectly. I dunno how they ride cause the car is still on jack stands.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Suspension/SubBushingsRear.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Suspension/SubBushingsFront.jpg

[AuburnRyan]

Bing was just being friendly...LOL...Pink is hardcore - but it looks too RED!


S14DB - are those sererate peices or one peice spacer/collar?

[Muzzy]

well bing has alum bushings as opposed to alum collars.

hey how do u have purple bolts S14DB?? or is that red locktite??

[bing]

oh shit son!!!! in your face!!! bangin on your lame ass D2s!!!!

ballers dont have cars that vibrate like fuk and their girls complain about it.
obvioulsy ryan doesnt want a really harsh/squeeky ride much like me. its our daily cars we are working on. we jus want a better ride/response.

oh, i guess you dont know much about coilovers then do you?

its a damper and a spring and mounting hardware, thats it....

when you have a room full of dampers and the resources to rebuild, recharge and revalve them then you come talk to me.

until you do that, you can pay $1500 - $3000 for the same thing with a different spring and a damper with different valving.

the internals of the dampers are very similar to Penske dampers, but of course if you havent had one apart you wouldnt know that.

and those dont look like D2 springs that rot out and corrode do they?

off-the-shelf is for posers

[jmauld]

oh, i guess you dont know much about coilovers then do you?

its a damper and a spring and mounting hardware, thats it....

when you have a room full of dampers and the resources to rebuild, recharge and revalve them then you come talk to me.

until you do that, you can pay $1500 - $3000 for the same thing with a different spring and a damper with different valving.

the internals of the dampers are very similar to Penske dampers, but of course if you havent had one apart you wouldnt know that.

and those dont look like D2 springs that rot out and corrode do they?

off-the-shelf is for posers

Let's see a shock dyno.

[Muzzy]

^^^^^^
damn son...all in your grill again!!!!

bing i dont give a shit ok? i was jus jumping on what SoSideways said.

[HyperTek]

this is gay.. Just put collars/spacers/ whatevewr you want.. Improvement will be felt.. If you dont want rattleing shit or are worried about noise, then dont be modding your car =As simple as that. You gotta pay to play , and your paying with your comfort.

The more soild = the better the rear suspension works.

Hell another cheap mod is the LSauto.com steering bushing eliminator that goes into your steering rack. a pain in the ass to install, but direct steering feel is well worth it.
http://lsauto.com/pix/steerspace/ssalone2.jpg

Regarding the D2, if they where not revalved, i dont think id bother with changing the springs, but I cant judge them since I never used them.

[bing]

whatev, no biggie..

just dont appreciate ghey comments from people who havent done the research when i have already gone out of my way to do it for the benefit of self and others.

and yes we have a shock dyno

[SoSideways]

^^^^^^
damn son...all in your grill again!!!!

bing i dont give a shit ok? i was jus jumping on what SoSideways said.

I was joking about the D2s, since I know Bing knows his shit and he said he modded them.

Notice how I asked him what he modded on them?

Anyways, I guess I can PM Bing more about that.

[HyperTek]

its cool man, I was looking at some of the suspension items on your site.. should do a gb sometime

[bing]

potentially, but right now i am back ordered with all the demand north of the border...

i have better images and write-ups on zt and son if you have seen them. my site is pretty static thus far, it will look much different in a months time hopefully.

[AuburnRyan]

Update - Peak urethane spacers installed with some other parts.

NO negatives, I can tell no degredation of ride quality - I'm on Tein FLEX on soft for the street though...so stiffer coilovers might feel them more. I also installed front tie rods, T/C rods, and VLSD, so object review of only spacers would be hard...but the car feels very smooth - no noises or harshness. Transition to slide and back is smooth.

I've only drove it about 2 hours, I'll update agin after my HPDE next week.

So far, I'd recommend them, perfect for me. I also see no reason I wouldn't like aluminum peices as well...but these seem great. I forget they're there.

[Muzzy]

yyyyaaaayyyy. u actually followed up!! cool!! glad to hear they worked out. looks like i'll be gettin me some soon.

[KoukiRookie]

I know this is an old thread but my question is if I have solid subframe bushings an I add urethane spacers would that get rid of the noise or reduce it from going to the cabin?

[booey13]

I'm not sure what you're referring to by urethane spacers but I believe the spl kits come with some kind of "spacer" to reduce noise. So I thats what you're talking about then yes.