RB26dett s14

[lonelydriver]

I had a beautifull s14 with an sr20det which I loved to my deepest of deepest loins. My mechanic was driving her and was rear ended. Long story short thank god for insurance against hit and run drivers. Now I want something even better and all I know to do is to build up another s14 with an rb26dett. I saw this one on e-bay and knew that was the way to go.

Ok I am sure that many people dream of this even more than I have for some time but I think I am finally financially ready to start this huge undertaking. But I am extremely short on knowledge of all of the little bits and pieces required for this swap.

here is what I have so far.
money and a good shop who is willing to loose a bay to the operation for a fiew (3 or 4) months.

here are the headaches I know of and would like to find a resolution b4 we start.
downpipe - who makes one that will clear the steering column
p/s lines - custom fab?
a/c lines - custom fab?
guage cluster - can we use the one we get out of the front clip?
motor mounts - back in the day I read somewhere that you put the left on the right and the right on the left. (probably wrong but what the hell)
transmission-I would like the awd but don't have the money for it so which gts trans do I use and what headaches come along with that...

Ok I know you guys are the ones to ask and that is why I asked so lets see what ya have as far as knowledge and sugestions. I know there are a lot of problems I have not brought up but that is because I have no idea. I am just looking for the help to get this done.

thanks in advance for all the great help I am hopefully about to get.

[lucky7]

if your having the swap done by a shop, be prepaired to spend upwards of $10,000 for the swap alone. search around on this site. also go to nicoclub.com they have an RB section. do a search there first, otherwise, like here your threads may get locked with a quickness. good luck.

[NemeGuero]

RB26DETTs are trickier 'cuz you have to buy an RB25 tranny, and due to clearance issues of the twin turbos, all custom piping has to be made and it has to be good.

Contact DriftFreaq. He's the RB guru here.

[BigVinnie]

Rb26 is a great engine, but probably has more potential with a single larger turbo for spool time.
Drift Freaq loves sixies!!!!! Defenitely hit the man up he knows his shit......

[drift freaq]

man you guys are making me blush. hahahhahhahahha
seriously though, I got your email and your call. We are in the process of prototyping what is going to be the dopest RB26 install kits out. Shameless self promotion kicks in :D hahahhahha. You will retain your TT, you will clear steering. You will be able to use the RB26 finned oil pan modded if you chose. On top of that we have new mounts we are designing with the RB26 specifically in mind. These babys are are going to be badass. The kit will come with a custom trick ass stainless steel downpipe as well as mounts and driveshaft. Look at it be like our RB25 kit but for the 26 specifically. We are looking at around 8 weeks lead time right now because the prototype car owner is on vaction.

[NemeGuero]

I knew you'd come!! *siiggghhh*
RB's are your crack-cocaine.

[kouki_s14]

i love my RB25 kit from syko, so no doubt the RB26 kit is gonna be great
i suggest that you definitely buy the syko performance kit and good luck with the project

[!Zar!]

The syko kit is the best rb install package period.

[SilviaNinja240]

I think there's a guy here from TN that has done something like that, I just remembered his movie "25,26,25,26,25,26". I forget who it was, but if he posts here you should PM him and talk to him

[BigVinnie]

I think there's a guy here from TN that has done something like that, I just remembered his movie "25,26,25,26,25,26". I forget who it was, but if he posts here you should PM him and talk to him

I believe it was one of the guys from underground motorsports......
I think (That Guy) made a comment about freeway racing, and how it was bad advertising for his company.....
Is that the one?

[SilviaNinja240]

yea, yea.. that's the guy. lonleydriver, I think you should PM him since he's done the swap before.

[lonelydriver]

thanks for the info so far.

as far as the 10k I have that covered. This car is already sposnored which means almost free labor as well as a fattie insurance check from my last car covers most of the parts. I will probably spend around 7k to get the swap done but that doesn't include labor at all... with labor it would be at least 10k.

we are looking at a front clip from a gts skyline and stripping everything out of a clean s14. I am not sure if we are going to keep the a/c or not but time will tell. From what my research has told me so far I would be able to use the gts motor/tranny mounts in the s14 but the down pipe needs to be custom which isn't a problem for my installer.

Will we be able to use the rwd tranny from the gts clip?

I have always thought of making an awd 240 but the headaches get even larger. Has anyone seen or heard of one? If so please dish the details on the front driveshaft and suspension clearance issues.

Also what clutch setup would you guys suggest for ~450 HP on the rb setup?

I am sure I will have many more questions but this is all for today.

thanks guys!!!

[PITCH]

Tagging this thread. I may ditch my KA-T options and go for the godzilla...:yum:

[SilviaNinja240]

gts? I thought you were doing a 26 swap?

[lucky7]

gts? I thought you were doing a 26 swap?

he needs the GTS tranny mated to the gtr motor to run rwd. are you refering to him talking about the 25 motor mounts? i dont know about that.

the AWD system to my knowlege has never been accomplished. the altessa system seems to be way to in depth and technical. plus lots and lots of hours spent making custom parts. but again, ive never heard of it being done although im sure its been attempted several times.

as for the clutch/flywheel. i bought an RPS 6 puck sprung clutch. its rated to 520 lb ft of torque. that should do the trick for my RB25 swap. i also just bought a fidanza 10.5 lb flywheel from jgy customs (www.jgy.cc). they shipped it out in 3 days. i believe it was about $350 with shipping, and im almost positive they have one for the GTR. i went this route, because at the time, i couldnt forsee myselft spending the cash on the os giken or the exedy clutch/flywheel set up. they were both $1,000+ IIRC. i believe im right around $800 for my set-up. but again, i was planning on keeping the stock flywheel in there initially.

i really hope this goes well for you. im excited as all hell to get my car back from the shop in a couple months. just intime for the ice age here to melt. ive been so tied-up in buying parts i wasnt origionally going to buy that now i dont have the money for install/tuning. to think, all i wanted was a STOCK rb25 tossed into my S14.. :rolleyes: . ive got several thousand dollars worth of parts lying around waiting to go into this thing. :wiggle:

[MadMax670]

AFAIK, GTS is RB25, GTR is RB26, and why would you buy a GTS clip, all you need is the 25 tranny and 25 oil pan which you can find through the forums. Mckinney sells the motor mounts and downpipe, (allows you to keep the stock twins) they also do wiring (they sell the 25 oil pan and tranny too, but it's a little pricey through them). My 26 is in the garage, still tearing it down and checking for signs of wear.

[drift freaq]

thanks for the info so far.

as far as the 10k I have that covered. This car is already sposnored which means almost free labor as well as a fattie insurance check from my last car covers most of the parts. I will probably spend around 7k to get the swap done but that doesn't include labor at all... with labor it would be at least 10k.

we are looking at a front clip from a gts skyline and stripping everything out of a clean s14. I am not sure if we are going to keep the a/c or not but time will tell. From what my research has told me so far I would be able to use the gts motor/tranny mounts in the s14 but the down pipe needs to be custom which isn't a problem for my installer.

Will we be able to use the rwd tranny from the gts clip?

I have always thought of making an awd 240 but the headaches get even larger. Has anyone seen or heard of one? If so please dish the details on the front driveshaft and suspension clearance issues.

Also what clutch setup would you guys suggest for ~450 HP on the rb setup?

I am sure I will have many more questions but this is all for today.

thanks guys!!!
ok here is the deal lonely, with the new Syko RB26 install kit you will use the Crossmember and engine brackets from the R33 GTST. Yes you will use a RB25DET transmission. Like I said earlier you have the option of using a modified 26 pan which has larger capacity , is aluminum and finned, or you can use a 25 pan. You have a lot of options with clutches.
Syko’s New RB26 mounts are very impressive. They are constructed with CNC machined aluminum plates molded in high durometer urethane. They are encased by a aluminum safety cage to prevent any possible failure in high horsepower applications. This feature was added because of the RB26’s extreme potential. There is not another mount out there that can compare in quality, design or strength.
Syko’s new custom downpipe allows you to keep the TT setup with full flow from both turbo’s. It utilizes mandrel bent 16 gauge full stainless steel construction, with 2.5” primaries leading to 3” main. Compare the flow characteristics of this pipe to any of our competitors and you will see a large difference.
Delivering perfermance while maintaining complete safety was the key issue in this design.

[lucky7]

AFAIK, GTS is RB25, GTR is RB26,


R32 GTS = RB20
R33 GTS = RB25
R34 GTS = RB25 neo

the baffled oil pan can be knotched to fit cant it? (RB26)

[drift freaq]

R32 GTS = RB20
R33 GTS = RB25
R34 GTS = RB25 neo

the baffled oil pan can be knotched to fit cant it? (RB26)
yes it can be. The main thing is your differential housing needs to cut off, grinded down and welded up. In addition there a few smaller mods. needed.

[lonelydriver]

Ok I am starting to see the costs involved in the godzilla swap but, and I know I am missing something here, why not go for the awd godzilla?

If you get a front clip off of an R33 and have an s14-2, the one with the 5 lug already, what would be the big deal with swaping out the front suspension as well??? it seems to me that if I am going to drop another 1400 into a RB25 trans that I might as well spend that on awd and keep the RB26 trans. I know I have to be missing something here so please point me out of the dark.

-LD:bigok:

[drift freaq]

Ok I am starting to see the costs involved in the godzilla swap but, and I know I am missing something here, why not go for the awd godzilla?

If you get a front clip off of an R33 and have an s14-2, the one with the 5 lug already, what would be the big deal with swaping out the front suspension as well??? it seems to me that if I am going to drop another 1400 into a RB25 trans that I might as well spend that on awd and keep the RB26 trans. I know I have to be missing something here so please point me out of the dark.

-LD:bigok:
you are indeed missing a lot. First off who quoted you out $1400 for a RB25 trans. Thats crazy. while expensive they are not nearly that much. Second off no one and I repeat no one I have seen yet, has pulled off a successful s14 to awd conversion(it may be out there but until I have seen it :shakeshead:. You are talking big money and lots of fabrication its not as simple as just swapping out suspension. There are a lot of factors that come into play and you would be looking at a very long down time to even go there.Chassis is not designed room wise to accept awd trans for one. The AWD front crossmember/subframe will not fit into the chassis without major fabrication. The suspension is designed to work around the awd crossmember/subframe in the skyline chassis.
If your going with the RB26 your much better off picking up a motorset anyways because GTR clips are extremely expensive and harder to get.You would definitely save money with a motorset.
I have actually talked to your mechanic about this stuff today, he had already contacted me after you did. Listen to him, he may not be all knowledgable about RB swaps and whatnot but he seems to have a very good grip on the reality of feasable conversions vs non feasable conversions. AWD a S14 is about equivelent to a 2WD 3000 GT owner wanting to turn it into AWD. Its not done and for a very good reason. Its not simple, its not designed that way from the factory and it would basically be a hack job at best.

[lonelydriver]

Ok I slept on it and I am thinking a bit more sanely but I am rethinking the swap. An sr20det setup can see 450 to 500 on the internals b4 problems but I am not sure of the transmission. Why go for the godzilla swap if I am not going to see more? Ok there is torque but is it worth it? A properly tuned SR seems like the way to go to me other than the rarity factor which entises me deepely. I am not bailing on the godzilla but I think I can get a lot more out of the money in an SR20DET. From what it sounds for the money I could have an SR20DET highly tuned and race ready or a seemingly hack job RB. Are the two more cylindars worth it?:2f2f:

[lucky7]

have you considered an RB25?? i personally wouldnt do an RB20, or even consider it for that matter. i would just do the SR instead of the 20. BUT, you can sort of compromise between the 26 and the SR and get a 25. this forum (zilvia in general) isnt all that warm to the idea of an RB swap. people seem to toss out the missconception that the engine weights a million lbs more than the SR and throws off the car's balance in the corners. the reality is this, the engine/tranny weighs 180lbs more. which would generally seem like a lot of weight to toss in the fron to f the car. but really, the majority of the weight is in the trans.. which is further back towards the center of the vehicle. meaning that unless you are an avid track whore, you will never notice the weight difference.

power wise, i am shooting for 300whp at 12 psi on the stock turbo. you dont want to boost any higher than 12psi with the factory turbo. it really lacks in efficiency above that. not to mention the RB25 came with a ceramic compressor wheel... any boost over 12psi, you are risking shattering it and shooting pieces out your tail pipe.. hopefully not sucking any into your engine..

my main goal with the car is to haul some ass. i NEED to get it out of my system. ive driven a 1.6 liter civic for the past 3+ years. by this time next year, i want 450 horses. which can be acheived on a completely un-opened RB25. just a turbo upgrade + all your supporting mods and good tuning. im also going to have my Se wheels widened to about 9", powdercoated black and they're getting M/T street ET's.

dont discredit the 25. it has more potential than you may have realized. do your self a favor and head over to nicoclub.com. go to the RB section and just start reading posts. also head over to racebread.com. strictly RB website. good luck man.

[drift freaq]

Ok I slept on it and I am thinking a bit more sanely but I am rethinking the swap. An sr20det setup can see 450 to 500 on the internals b4 problems but I am not sure of the transmission. Why go for the godzilla swap if I am not going to see more? Ok there is torque but is it worth it? A properly tuned SR seems like the way to go to me other than the rarity factor which entises me deepely. I am not bailing on the godzilla but I think I can get a lot more out of the money in an SR20DET. From what it sounds for the money I could have an SR20DET highly tuned and race ready or a seemingly hack job RB. Are the two more cylindars worth it?:2f2f:
doing a RB is not a hack job. trying to do a RB with AWD would be.
As far as torque goes I will speak firsthand, the RB hands down has so much more torque than a SR its not funny. My friends with SR's trip on the power and torque of my RB.That said its not for everyone.
You will spend to get a SR up 450HP . If you drop a stock 26 in you will get close with very few extras. Perhaps you should be thinking going RB25? You could drop in a RB25 with our install kit and be close to the 300hp range with a close to stock setup with a boost controller. Upgrade your turbo and injectors and you could be in that 400hp range. The effectiveness of the 25 lies in the cost factor. Clip=25-2700. Install kit 1k. Bolt ons another 1k . Its a lot less than a 26 install and its a lot of fun. I like mine and so does Kouki_s14 and a few other people here running 25's.
Its up to you in the end.

[lonelydriver]

I was close to 300 with my SR20 and it isn't unheard of to get an SR to 360 with a T28 turbo which isn't a dificult or even expensive swap. But I have already had that car. I want better. What are the low end torque numbers out of an RB25 and RB26? I was seeing 260 ft-lb at 3k rpm with a T25. I am looking at the RB26 because of the smaller twin turbos and lower spool rpm. I understand that the 26 is probably another 2k over the 25 and that is managable but it seems to me that by the time I get done I could have built an SR20 to the hilt, but then it would just be another SR20 s14. Dam these dificult decissions...! More soul searching and research is needed. I will keep everyone posted on my decission and I am always open to more input.:rawk:

-LD

[BigVinnie]

Rb25 with NEO head is the way to go from what people have told me. Power output is greater than using older model RB25det's made before 1997 production. It is a low emissions head.
More affordable and much more cost effective than getting an RB26dett.

[drift freaq]

I was close to 300 with my SR20 and it isn't unheard of to get an SR to 360 with a T28 turbo which isn't a dificult or even expensive swap. But I have already had that car. I want better. What are the low end torque numbers out of an RB25 and RB26? I was seeing 260 ft-lb at 3k rpm with a T25. I am looking at the RB26 because of the smaller twin turbos and lower spool rpm. I understand that the 26 is probably another 2k over the 25 and that is managable but it seems to me that by the time I get done I could have built an SR20 to the hilt, but then it would just be another SR20 s14. Dam these dificult decissions...! More soul searching and research is needed. I will keep everyone posted on my decission and I am always open to more input.:rawk:

-LD
Well all i can say is there is no way your close to 300hp SR had the kind of torque a RB has. I don't have a torque number off the top of my head but its going to be there. Plus you will feel it even before you hit boost, unlike a SR. Also the turbo on the 25 is just small enough to spool quickly and fact is in either engine you won't experience lag on the stock turbos due to the natural torque of the 6 cylinder. A SR built to the hilt still will not compare to a RB. IMHO. If you have never experienced a RB you are in for a surprise. you just can't compare the SR to the RB in the end the RB will always win in the power and torque department. There is a reason Nissan went with RB's in the Skylines instead of SR's.

[SYKORB26]

I was close to 300 with my SR20 and it isn't unheard of to get an SR to 360 with a T28 turbo which isn't a dificult or even expensive swap. But I have already had that car. I want better. What are the low end torque numbers out of an RB25 and RB26? I was seeing 260 ft-lb at 3k rpm with a T25. I am looking at the RB26 because of the smaller twin turbos and lower spool rpm. I understand that the 26 is probably another 2k over the 25 and that is managable but it seems to me that by the time I get done I could have built an SR20 to the hilt, but then it would just be another SR20 s14. Dam these dificult decissions...! More soul searching and research is needed. I will keep everyone posted on my decission and I am always open to more input.:rawk:

-LD

To answer your question about torque, we must compare the engines in an even manner. Thus, I am listing the stock specs for the engines. According to my references, the red top SR20DET is rated at 28 KG-M/4000 RPM (about 202 ft/lbs). The R33 RB25DET produces 30 KG-M/4800 RPM (217 ft/lbs). The rating for the R33 RB26DETT is 37.5 KG-M/4400 (271 ft/lbs), and the R34 RB26DETT is 40KG-M/4400 (289 ft/lbs).

Also, keep in mind that the above is only measuring peak torque. A smaller engine with a large turbo may me able to produce a large amount of torque once in full boost. However, it may not produce much torque at all while in a lag condition. This is something to consider if the car will be driven on a daily basis.

For all around driveability, the RB25DET has several advantages. It has 2.5L displacement, a 9.0-1 compression ratio, VTC system, and a small ceramic ball bearing turbo. This translates to a very linear power band. In other words, the engine is super responsive with hardly any noticeable lag.

While the RB26DETT is in the same engine family as the RB20 and RB25, it is basically a refined race engine. Just look at the individual throttle bodies, twin turbos, and beefy block. With proper valve train modifications, this engine can reliably rev to 9K. Try doing that with the rocker arm system on an SR.

Lastly, consider reliability. While an SR can be pushed upward of 500HP, it requires major internal work to do this. Even if the proper parts are installed, and quality labor is done, the engine can only be considered slightly reliable because it is running at its maximum potential. A properly built 500 HP RB26DETT would barely be breaking a sweat.

The most important thing when making this type of decision is to decide on the purpose of your car. Are you building a daily driver, compromise car, or a purpose only track machine? In my opinion, anything over 400 RWHP is useless for a street car. Even for drifting or circuit racing this level of power can often be distracting for a begining to intermediate driver. You will be more sucessful if you are in control of the car. For a daily driver, consider drivability and reliability as key factors. For a purpose only track car, anything goes, but be prepared to buy a truck and a trailer to go with your car. For a compromise car, I'd suggest having a second vehicle around as these cars usually lack driveability, reliability, and get poor gas mileage.

Obviously, cost is always a factor. The place to start is to figure out your budget. Also, try to be realistic about the power level you want to achieve. Once you know these two things, research all your possibilities and purchase whatever gives you the most performance and reliability that you can afford.

[kouki_s14]

I was close to 300 with my SR20 and it isn't unheard of to get an SR to 360 with a T28 turbo which isn't a dificult or even expensive swap. But I have already had that car. I want better. What are the low end torque numbers out of an RB25 and RB26? I was seeing 260 ft-lb at 3k rpm with a T25. I am looking at the RB26 because of the smaller twin turbos and lower spool rpm. I understand that the 26 is probably another 2k over the 25 and that is managable but it seems to me that by the time I get done I could have built an SR20 to the hilt, but then it would just be another SR20 s14. Dam these dificult decissions...! More soul searching and research is needed. I will keep everyone posted on my decission and I am always open to more input.:rawk:

-LD

funnie how all we RB owners always take such interest in threads like this

now on to the topic at hand

With 10k you can have a nicely built SR, but will it be reliable in the long run?
It is another SR powered S14, but who cares it's your car and its still dam fast, but reliability again comes into play. You had a good amount of power from your old SR, you were happy with it were you not? But you say you want better, then isn't one decision is already made? Almost everything about the RB is better than an SR except for the weight issue, many will disagree with me here. I honestly did not feel any change in how my car handles, and there are a lot of people that claim that having an RB help with understeer problems, which I believe is true. If you purchase the Syko kit a majority of the added weight is in the transmission which will be positioned lower and towards the center of the car, along with the motor itself, to help lower the center of gravity . A lot of people that go from KA to SR say they miss their low end power, but love it when the turbo spools. After doing my 25 swap, obviously I was not missing the low end power of the KA let alone anything else about it. You can also look around and find what is the maximum power that someone has made from an SR? I believe its somewhere in the low 600hp range. The RB can do that like SYKORB26 said "without breaking a sweat", with maixmum output to be well over 1000hp. You tell me which is a better motor.

So it comes down to RB25 or RB26.

The 26's TT I'm sure spool up great, but i feel absolutely no lag in my RB25. Hit the gas a bit you will instantly hear the turbo spooling, it is dam loud. Both motors will be great, 26's are hard to get and are expensive, not to mention you will need the 25 tranny like you already know. Unless of course you have really deep pockets, then you can be the first to make the S14 AWD. But if you do decide to get the 26, it has great power stock, twin turbos, and hell its Godzilla, but is all the extra cost worth it to YOU? That is the question you need to answer yourself and we can only give you our opinions, some will say its worth it's and some will says it's not. Some opinions may have already been influence by others so when it all comes down to it, in the end YOU have to make the decision. No one will have the same opinions and some people probably will hate me to death because i said the RB is better.

again what are you doing with the car?
you decide
it's your car, your money, and your decision alone

but if you want my opinion, I vote RB25 with Syko kit, unless of course i get the RB26 for the same price as the RB25, or within reasonable range, including 25 tranny, which will probably never happen
it's the best bang for the buck IMO

henry

[BigVinnie]

Any engine that has 2 less rods, and 2 less pistons than an inline 6 cannot come close to contending internal max power ratings. It just can't be done and goes against many physical elements.
If you have a 4banger that uses the same forged metals as the 6 banger it still wont come close to the peak power of a six banger, even if you evenly match the 4bangers displacement. Six bangers do less work when it comes to achieving power.
An sr probably could achieve alot of torque, but never near enough to that of an RB engine that has more rev, and 2 additional pistons.

[efextasy]

GO RB26DETT aWD, actually i remember reading and article about some shop in canada that did that swap with AWD

[lonelydriver]

Ok... this car will be a nice day daily driver and definate weekend track car. I am looking for the best of both worlds. I can drive a car with 450 HP daily as long as it doesn't rain. I am looking at either an AEM or Motec stand alone ECU which would give me the daily drivability and the 450HP at the flip of a switch. From what I have seen so far the RB26dett comes in about 4k more than the RB25det by the time it is all done. I just want to make sure it is doable. I don't want to get 80 or 90% into the swap and have to wait for six months for something to be fabricated. I am looking to have this be done and finished and drivable b4 the end of the drag season. I know the 26 swap has been done b4 and I feel like anything less than the best building blocks would be a waste of money. I expect to spend another 5 to 10k on the car next season on better internals and turbos. So for me I think I am going to go with a RB26dett.

If anyone knows where to buy a RB26dett front clip cheaper than e-bay please let me know.

Thanks for all the great threads guys... and keep them comming.:squintd:

[SYKORB26]

If your goal is a 450HP daily driver/weekend warrior, the RB26DETT would be a great choice. Built right, it could deliver that type of horsepower with reliability and yet be very streetable. Although you may spend some extra money up front, you will be laying down a proper foundation for reaching your final goal.

As long as you stay with a 2WD configuration, the fabrication side should not be too involved. The hardest part of the swap is positioning and mounting the engine in a way that will allow enough space for the downpipe, yet give you a lower center of gravity and better front to rear weight distribution. This can easily be done using a properly designed conversion kit.

As SYKO PERFORMANCE is my company, my opinion is obviously biased when speaking about conversion kits. My suggestion is to research the different ways you can go about the installation before making a decision. Our system is different than the others as it utilizes the factory R33 GTST (RB25DET) engine crossmember and engine brackets. Although it may add a slight bit to the cost of the install, the results are well worth it in the end. The reason we do this is because the stock KA engine crossmember does not line up with the mounting position of the RB series engines--requiring a long extension bracket to be used. In our opinion, this type of entension bracket is a weaker design and gives the conversion a "hacked" look.

As the SYKO mounting design centers around factory Nissan parts, the install looks very clean and is much stronger. In order to reposition the engine, we utilize custom urethane motor mounts for the engine and aluminum brackets for the transmisssion. In order to address the extremely high output potential of this engine, we have added a safety feature in our new mount design which will limit the amount of stress placed on the urethane under high torque conditions. In essence, the mounts will offer the comfort of an insulated mount under idle and low to mid-range conditions, yet offer the strength of a solid mount under heavy load.

The other advantage our kit offers is a non-restrictive downpipe design. As the downpipe must be designed to clear the steering shaft, this gets a bit complicated. One of our competitors has solved this issue by notching into the primary pipe for the front turbo. We feel that this type of design does not let the front turbo breath properly--limiting the power potential of the engine. We have spent a lot of time to design our downpipe to fit without needing to pinch off the flow of the exhaust. As I stated earlier, my opinions come from a biased position. Do some research, and make your own decision. I'm quite sure that when you compare the quality and design of our products, you will see a difference.

As for other parts needing fabrication/modification, the intercooler piping will need to be made. This is actually quite simple for a qualified shop. The other area you need to deal with is the oil pan. For this you have two options. The first is to use a pan and oil pick-up from an RB25DET. This only requires minor modifications. The second option is to modify the factory aluminum RB26 oil pan. This is much more involved, but in my opinion is the best way to do it. Just look at the two pans and you will see why. As for modifications, the differential housing must be cut off and ground down. The holes where the axle went through the pan then need to be welded up, and some ribs need to be ground down (for clearance). Although this method solves many issues, it also creates one as well. The factory sway bar will not clear this pan. About all you can do is either notch the front of the pan for clearance, or build a custom sway bar. As of now, we have not decided whether or not to make a sway bar to resolve this problem. If there is enough demand to justify a run, a sway bar kit may be designed in the future. For now, you are on your own.

Assuming your shop can handle the fabrication/modifications listed above, your swap should go quite smoothly. Please let me know if there is anything else we can assist you with. Also, be aware that our RB26DETT downpipe is still in production and may take 6-8 weeks before completion.
-Gary Narusawa
SYKO PERFORMANCE

[lonelydriver]

Sounds good to me. I am going to be cryotreating the engine and other components extensively because of personal connections. So a 6 to 8 week lead time is not that bad of a deal. We will have to exchange contact info. Actually I think you have been in contact with Frank, my mechanic, so it may all be in the works already. I can't wait... but I will and I know I will be satisfied.

[0110-M-P]

Just curious, but I see the conversion kit for the rb25 costs $1250, what will be the ballpark cost of the rb26 conversion kit?

[NemeGuero]

1250 is wayy low, put down the crack pipe.

RB26 doesn't have a "kit" 'cuz it doesn't just drop in. You need an RB25DET tranny 'cuz you can't fit the 240 with AWD without at least another 10k.

So you have to buy an RB26 front clip AND an RB25 Tranny. +1k (or so) for Syko Performance install kit (Not yet ready for production)
So, without AWD.. still its upwards of 6-7k

[kouki_s14]

1250 is wayy low, put down the crack pipe.

RB26 doesn't have a "kit" 'cuz it doesn't just drop in. You need an RB25DET tranny 'cuz you can't fit the 240 with AWD without at least another 10k.

So you have to buy an RB26 front clip AND an RB25 Tranny. +1k (or so) for Syko Performance install kit (Not yet ready for production)
So, without AWD.. still its upwards of 6-7k

i think you may have read wrong, he said rb25 KIT not clip, i assume thats what you think he said because 1250 is a bit on the higher side actually

[NemeGuero]

Well, he said an RB conversion kit. You may be right, but I think a conversion kit would be more than just the motorset?

No?

[drift freaq]

Just curious, but I see the conversion kit for the rb25 costs $1250, what will be the ballpark cost of the rb26 conversion kit?
Here is the deal. RB26 conversion kit is going to sell somewhere in the range of $1400. Straight suggested retail is $1650. Current website pricing on the RB25 install kit is basically a shipped price $1250. That should clear the confusion up.
If I start another group buy on the RB25 kit it will be $1100.

[0110-M-P]

drift freaq, thanks for the info. I have been planning this for a long time now and will finally be able to start it late in the spring and through the summer. Countless people I know have tried to talk me down from a rb26 to a rb25, but my mind is set.

nemeguero, sorry for the confusion (crackpipe lol), but by conversion kit I was talking only the parts that are needed to make a motor fit in the car (i.e. mounts, driveshaft, downpipe). My actual costs I will be putting aside for the complete swap (to be performed by myself) is about 7k dollars and then I need to buy a 240 w/ a bad motor (maybe 1k or so for a 89/90). But I will probably end up buying the motor first and then all the swap parts and get the car last or when i just find a good deal.

[Muzzy]

ok.....obviously u need to get the RB25 and not the 26. for your needs teh RB26 is more trouble then its worth. you'll have that oh so cool wow factor. but so what. u could have that same power and reliability in a RB25 for a few grand less. and parts will be a bit cheaper because its not a RB26!!!

so teh choice is simple...RB25....end of story.

[Destructo]

I havent driven a sr yet. But i do own a rb25 and it feels like a very nice combination in a s14. THere is plenty of adiquate torque for dicking around and saving gas by not spooling for daily driving. That the car wont feel like a snail(Ka). And when you mash that gas its as simple as shift+fun=rb.

[NemeGuero]

Yah, I suck. Haha, sorry for the (semi)wrong info.

[kouki_s14]

We saw his words in different ways, no need to apologize at all.

Also the RB25 is plenty of fun before boost and no doubt the 26 is also. It really comes down to what you want as the end result for your car. A lot of people have the mentality that the RB26 is soo much better than the 25. i believe its all in the person's head. The person wants to say "i have a GTR motor, the godzilla of all motors, not a gts-t". It seems like getting a 25 will make you regret not getting the 26 instead, thats not how i feel at all. The two blocks are essentially the same. the 25 can handle upwards of 500hp with just as much work as it would take the 26, not to mention the money you saved putting in the 25 can contribute to these funds. If you plan on more power than that a complete rebuild of the motor must come into play, ie stroker kit valvetrain etc, so the two motors wont be very different in the end.

henry

[0110-M-P]

ok.....obviously u need to get the RB25 and not the 26. for your needs teh RB26 is more trouble then its worth. you'll have that oh so cool wow factor. but so what. u could have that same power and reliability in a RB25 for a few grand less. and parts will be a bit cheaper because its not a RB26!!!

so teh choice is simple...RB25....end of story.


Why is it so obvious, lol? I'm not looking for the wow factor, just purely for myself. My goals with this car is completely stock motor, w/ just exhaust, boost controller, and some reliability mods. I already have a 424rwhp TT 350z so i'm not trying to build another car with a ton aftermarket parts. The stock 240 w/ the rb26 is all I want at this point. I just like working on cars and its a project I have wanted to take on for years now.

[NemeGuero]

fuggit.. why not go AWD then? hahah

[Muzzy]

um its obvious beacuse u dont have real high expectations of the motor.
wut would your justification to get teh RB26 over teh RB25?? All RB25 and 26 are practically the same as far as construction. yea it has ITBs..but...u arent lookin for that much power so the extra thousands that it cost is far from worth it?? ....oooohh....perfect example....teh blitz D1 Skyline sedan...guess what motor it has in it...RB25!!! if that motor is fine in a skyline sedan...i think it will be more then enough in a sport coupe (yea its not swapped but so wut).
so yea like i said...end of story.:boink:

please feel free to point out the benifits to me cuz im not seeing it. but im sure what ever you say im sure i can shoot down.:axe: :D

[SilviaNinja240]

It's 0110-MP's (<--strange nick btw) money, let him do what he wants. If he wants a 26 then more power to him. This is thread is becoming just like SR vs. KA-T, but in RB format. anyways...






btw, 26>25 ;)
the end

[koukidough]

wow rb26! Once you get that puppy in there I wonder what your max speed will be...180mph+ doubt it but it can happen.

[SYKORB26]

Both engines are great. If you are looking for a cost effective well mannered sub 300 HP daily driver, the RB25DET is the best choice. It can actually get decent mileage as well, when not driven hard. However, to get this engine past 300HP starts getting pricey. At this point, the turbo, injectors, cams, computer, and head gasket should be upgraded. In addition,for a clean and efficient FMIC set up, the Greddy intake should be added. As the stock internals are good for a reliable 400HP, this should be a target range for this set up.

Now consider the RB26DETT. It comes with twin turbos, 440CC injectors, ITB's, and a front facing intake plenum. With proper tuning, this can easily yeild an additional 100HP over the mildly tuned RB25DET. In other words, a mildly tuned RB26DETT is capable of reaching close to the power range of the RB25DET running larger turbo, injectors, etc.

In making a decision, consider the cost of all modifications needed to reach your target power range. While the RB26DETT may cost more up front, it does offer more to make up. I'm in no way saying that it will be cheap to install. However, the end result is worth the money.

The RB26DETT is not for everybody. If you want cheap, get an SR. If you want more, go RB25DET. If you want the ultimate, install the RB26DETT, but expect to spend some cash.

[speeddreamz]

Go import a SKYLINE GTR, or , go rb26 w/ rb25 tranny.

Enuff said stop being a retard, this has been discussed everywhere including RB and Skyline forums a-nausea

[NemeGuero]

It's 0110-MP's (<--strange nick btw) money, let him do what he wants. If he wants a 26 then more power to him. This is thread is becoming just like SR vs. KA-T, but in RB format. anyways...


btw, 26>25 ;)
the end

Ka-T > *

Hahahahaha... just playing.

If I had the money, I would be RB26 over RB25.

[Muzzy]

yes RB26 is greater then the RB25 but not worth the extra expense for his goals.

[lonelydriver]

Wow a lot has been said since I last checked this thread I started. I am looking for a 450 BHP daily driver reliable car. I had completely forgotten about the stroker kit. but either way here are my options as I see them.

SR20 - :zzz: been there and already have the t-shirt. I am looking for more torque and more power.

RB25det - :rawk: 2k cheaper for the front clip and comes with the tranny I need plus all the goodies. I would go with the gready intake and a good sized FMIC, probably a 6" deep. I am thinking an AEM ECU and with the install kit and a T3T4 hybrid I am looking in the ball park of the ammount of power I want...

RB26dett - :wtf: it doesn't seem to me that it is worth the extra cash to get er done. With the correct engine management and turbo setup I think i can get into the HP range that I am looking for. the cost benifit analysis says no but the glory at the end says yes.

Bottom line - I think I will go with a RB25, stroke it, and bigger turbo. :hitit:

PS - Where can I find the stroker kit for the RB25 and what are the things I look for to make sure I get the newer neo head design on the gtst engine?

[Muzzy]

ha HA!!! so u see it my way huh???? YYYAAAYYY!!! wise decision sir.
suk in that 0110-M-P!!!! :p

[umsports]

I've owned just about every combo you could imagine in a 240SX, and I'd recommend the RB25DET over the RB26....

Reason being...most people will never push the RB25 block to the point where it will require upgrades..

If you are shooting for 600+whp, I may suggest the RB26...but because most are happy with 300-500whp, the RB25DET is the best motor for the job, IMO.

[lonelydriver]

O' mighty gods of the RB... what turbo would your guys suggest for 450 hp at the wheels for the RB25?

I am looking at a T04E with an ar of 0.63. Let me know what you think.

[Muzzy]

well....first..change your manifold. then run a To4s or the greddy T51z i'd say.
perhaps a GT30 or GT32.<---best choices i think

[umsports]

O' mighty gods of the RB... what turbo would your guys suggest for 450 hp at the wheels for the RB25?

I am looking at a T04E with an ar of 0.63. Let me know what you think.

It would suggest a GT35R with a .82 a/r (.63 a/r is too small for the 2.5L 6 Cylinder, IMO)...No point in changing the stock exhaust manifold as it's a T3 based setup..I would however go to the Greddy Intake Manifold as you will pick up some HP, most definately...

[kouki_s14]

It would suggest a GT35R with a .82 a/r (.63 a/r is too small for the 2.5L 6 Cylinder, IMO)...No point in changing the stock exhaust manifold as it's a T3 based setup..I would however go to the Greddy Intake Manifold as you will pick up some HP, most definately...

i also suggest the greddy
i dont have it myself, but the way my IC piping is routed over the radiator back to the stock manifold just heats up the piping seems to negate my front mount. i touch the cold piping near the end tanks and the piping is cold, but once i feel the piping near the IM it gets HOT. :ugh:

henry