4-20sx

[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

ive never seen that type of gt2871r before

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di-devol

Just drifting, at one of the short tracks is basically hot lapping(short and tight corners lots of transistions). The other tracks are more sustained high rpm long sweeping turns.

It will be on 92, this is my daily as well. Maybe 20 psi is pushing it? lol

Thanks!

gotta240

Alright guys, just bought a used 2871R turbo. What do I measure/check other than shaft play, to see what I got? Do I need to take anything apart or can everything be measured without taking anything apart?

Also, it seems like everyone running an internal WG on these turbos has problems. What does it take to go external WG on a tubular bottom mount manifold? Anything to be aware of? Any types/brands external WG suggested?

cotbu

Wheel Trim | Turbobygarrett

First read the tag on the chra. Then search www.turbobygarrett.com. If it's missing remove, exhaust and compressor housings and measure the inducer and exducer.
I don't think it's necessary though, unless you were sold a gt3071r?!? Either way, you still win!
Manifold, Get a stock manifold fitted with an external gate, Hit up Cody Ace, or your local welder. Don't mess around with the crackafolds. If you have to use a megan type manifold, use the internal gate for now. Just check the wastegate with a pressure source, make sure it fully opens without sticking and then slowly add pressure to see when it starts to crack. If the internal gate is adjustable? Make it looser than 10psi(crack) and keep an eye out for boost creep. I'm sure you have all the supporting mods already, but add a decent EBC to your list, if you don't already have one. I hope you understand that gibberish...I'm a little smeenashed!

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codyace

I'm sure there is going to be a spec on actual shaft play, but for the most part some nominal movement up down isn't going to be an issue, as the bearings fill with oil during operation.

The big thing to look for are any scrapes/damage inside the turbo housings of wehre blades may have rubbed. That's the only thing that would scare me.

With that said though, most Garrett GT turbos are still in good shape.


As far as the best/only solution to boost control is to go external gate. Check out my group buy if you're interested in having your's done.

http://zilvia.net/f/forced-induction...your-sr20.html

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gotta240

Thanks Cotbu and Codyace! You guys are just about the only guys on here I actually trust with advice!

This turbo does have shaft play which concerns me, but the fins do not hit the walls of the turbo. Supposedly it has about 2k miles on it, but I'm finding that hard to believe with the shaft play it has up and down.

Two more questions for you pros- If I remove the intake/exhaust housings, is there any special process for putting them back together? Any sealant/gaskets etc or is it just as simple as removing the bolts, taking housing off, then replacing?

2. Is it true that you can just take a .64 exhaust housing and slap it on a 2871 that initially came with the larger .86 exhaust housing or are there other changes made to the turbo to make the housing work? I would never actually switch my .64, but just wondering if it can be done(I saw another turbo for sale that claims to have done this.)

edit- codyace- Looks like I need to find a stock SR exhaust manifold to go external gate. I have a very nice tubular manifold but it sounds like I shouldn't do external waste gate on this. Not quite sure why, but i'll trust the advice from people who know way more than I about turbos.

cotbu

It's pretty safe to say you have a 71mm 56trim compressor wheel. The compressor housing is a little tricky(mainly the snap ring) so just leave that alone. The exhaust housing and swapping .64 to .86 and vice versa is just as simple as, slapping it on. I don't think you really need to worry about any of that, as much as having a properly functioning turbo. Get it installed, with the proper oil restrictor. Look for smoke, look in the hotpipe and Inlet for oil. And of course listen for weird sounds!

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JN1AS4

My little "e-clip" came off the internal wastegate on my 2871r so the flap was just opening and closing and it would only build like 2-3psi.

JN1AS4

I have a s14sr with PFC, 850cc, 2871r .64, z32 maf, walbro, mid-mount IC setup, rocker arm stoppers, arp head studs, cometic HG, STOCK HEAD/STOCK BLOCK. And it was tuned conservatively at 20psi on 93oct. And it made 325hp/305tq on a dynojet. Knock value peaks at 20-30 during pulls on my PFC commander. I've only ran the setup on 14.5psi even though it was tuned for 20psi. Do those numbers sound about right??? And are those knock values something that I should really be concerned with???

Silverbullet

That is good to know. It should be pretty safe with stock 370cc in that case. It shouldn't make too much of a difference, but what exhaust manifold were you on, and im assuming it is a 3" turbo back?

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codyace

Did your car have cams? I figured it still push some boost as my car certainly did as it simply couldn't vent enough.

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JN1AS4

Stock intake/exhaust manifold. And yeah 3" turbo back.

JN1AS4

Nope...STOCK CAMS!!!!!

di-devol

I'm not sure on the knock values so someone will have to chime in on that.

As for the power, get a set of some good cams. The stock cams are holding you back.

boniomario

X2^^^

You do need cams to leash the potential to 400 BHP

You've done the right setup but I do advise that once you do cams might want invest a little more and do valve springs and retainers

Walperstyle

Just placing this here:

I have a GT35R .82 hotside housing
I need a GT35R .63 hotside housing

T3 flange to manifold, 4 bolt/vband exhaust

anyone want to trade? or sell? PM please

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EsChassisLove

PowerFC is set to warn you of any knock value over 60.

Honestly, I don't like anything over 15. That's just me. I've hit 50 before and hear no sign of pinging or detonation at all.




So fellas I need some new cams. I hear great things about JWT but I'm unsure which ones to get. Tax Season is stupid good to me this year. So I am upgrading a lot before finally heading back to the dyno for a better tune.

Heres a basic layout of my current mods

Apexi PFC D-Jetro W/Commander
Built bottom end SR20
Bone stock head
ISIS intake manifold
Tial MV-S 38mm wastegate
GT2871R .64
Currently running a rather large GReddy FMIC but i am switching to the PBM HMIC
Nismo 740cc injectors in a CS Fuel rail powered by a walbro 255

I may be missing something. But this is what I am getting before going back to the dyno-

Apexi AVCR
Competition Stage 4 clutch/flywheel
PBM HMIC with recirc'd BOV
New Apexi headgasket
ARP studs
Possible water/meth injection
And then the cams.

My ultimate goal is 400whp on pump.

Would S3 cams be good? Or a little overkill?

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boniomario

With the setup you want to run S3 cams sounds good, however like I stated above when doing cams don't forget to do the valves and valve springs the stock ones are not made to handle aftermarket cams due to their spring rate

Also meth system is too complex for the power goals you're trying to reach stay away from that but everything else sounds good

Also if you're thinking of taking out the head to do the headgasket might as well as overhaul the top end and get new valves and do a 3 or 5 angle valve job or get it machined and balanced properly for durability

just my opinion of what I would do if I had your setup right now

EsChassisLove

Depends on how much the porting costs. I would love to have it polished and orted but I didn't get that much money back lol

What about adjustable cam gears? Good decision or is it not needed?

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boniomario

It all depends on what cams you go with, personally I went with the tomei poncams just because of what my tuner has told me about the tomei build and those cams do not need cam gears therefore you can save more money but this is as far as I know and someone can correct me if I'm wrong if you go with more aggressive cams then you would need cam gears.

I know what you mean on getting the money back, if you can't port it then just make sure you do the other steps right of having a good set of valve retainers and springs ... BC springs are pretty good and affordable as well.

The most affordable and safe route that I took was

- Circuit sport rocker arm stoppers
- Tomei poncams
- BC valve springs and retainer kit
- Tomei/Nismo 740 CC injectors (they're made at the same factory)

That's all I did with no built bottom end and other bolt ons to hit 400 BHP

EsChassisLove

I've already got the BC0200 kit just waiting to be installed with the rest

As far as the Tomeis go, I love those cams. I don't want a really agressive cam because this is a daily driven car. I don't need a blapblapblap idle at red lights haha.

So I think this is the route i am going to go

JWT S3 cams
GReddy cam gears
BC0200 kit
And brian crower stainless steel valves.
Depending on if I get the porting or not will determine whether or not I get the +0.5mm, +1.0mm or just normal sized valves.

Edit-I am in contact with DriftSpeed down here in SoCal and seeing how much all of this would cost. I want to go solid lifters also. I don't like Hydraulics at all.

Editedit-Tomei Poncams are almost $100 cheaper than JWTs and allow me to use solid lifters. I think I will go that route. 260 or 270 is the question now.

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di-devol

^270 would be a bit much don't ya think for a 2871r?

mattsil80wis

you can run s3 cams with stock valve train

and i would not go with solid lifters as the maintance with them (shimming them all the time iirc) is a hassle

your best bet is to sell all the BC stuff and cam gears and just run the s3 cams and have some extra cash in your pocket

boniomario

sounds good ... poncams only come with one lift 11.5 and that is 256 duration the others are procams not to get both confused

270 is a lil too much and I stuck with 256 and love the results

codyace

If anything can be more wrong, it is some of the stuff boniomario is posting.

A good cam does not require cams nor springs

As EsChassisLove have discuess through PM, the best way to fly is oddly the cheapest; that is the Jim Wolf S3 cams (while expensive initially) are the best to run as they will cost you less in the end. By far they make the most torque and power, and only require stock valvetrain to make it all work.


The best, and cheapest way to run is JWT S3. Anything is spending money where it doesn't need to be.

...with that said, if you DO want springs/retianers, run the same brand as your cams. Dont' fall into the cheapass trap of running BC stuff with high seat pressures and hoping for thebest.

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boniomario

Codyace, I know you're a respected member of this forum and may have had some experience in building your own SR's or other engines throughout your tuning life

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of how they want to build their car ... Putting in valve springs and retainers with a good set of cams ensures that the valves close on the proximate timing because the OEM valve springs do not have the spring rate as the aftermarket springs do ... BC are not known for their quality but what OP is aiming for is 400 BHP benchmark and that is plenty for that

OP can go out and buy the tomei valve spring set and spend a lot more money but since BC has worked for myself and many others that I know who run the same setup as I do, it is only wise for me to post what I know and have seen

I know you're a huge fan of JWT cams and have probably claimed that 10089529542389 times throughout this thread and many others ... I can respect that as well some people prefer one brand over the other ... In my personal opinion I think JWT cams are junk and I think canned tunes are the worst thing a person can ever do to their car but I've never discredited you when you mention they're the best

I'm not attacking you just letting you know that some people are entitled to their own opinions when it comes to building cars

cheers mate

di-devol

Cody only said some of the stuff you said was wrong. Like what I quoted. Poncams come only in 256 not 260. And 256-260-270 etc. is the duration of the cam not the lift.

You sir are confusing.

boniomario

you sir are absolutely right about me being confused on one part and the others not so confused

sorry, that's what I meant with the 260 the duration not the lift I will admit to my mistake

I will stick to my original statement about valve springs ... flame on

inopsey

all sr20s are atleast 10+ years old from the factory, and the springs are just as old. valve springs are always compressed weather the engine is running or not, so the springs will wear by age and not just engine mileage. worn springs can prevent the engine from making peak cylinder pressures at high rpm and power levels; therefore it is always a good idea to do the valve springs, at least new oem, when upgrading to aftermarket cams.

Seraphim38

hello,
So I got a new SR20DET built for me and for the life of me I can't seem to get an Enthalpy tune that will work. It's driving me crazy. It shouldn't be this hard. I have been through 4 sets of chips that are either very rich or very lean, and none of them have been close enough to make it work by adjusting base fuel pressure to compensate. Configuration:

SR20DET #62 ECU flashed by Enthalpy
GT2871R .64 using the internal wastegate and stock actuator
Circuit Sports braided turbo oil & coolant lines
BC264 12.0mm cams (new)
JWT cam gears (new)
Greddy valve springs, BC titanium retainers (new)
Megan tubular exhaust manifold
Stock SR20DET S13 intake manifold, S13 throttle body (motor is a black top non-vvt)
Z32 N62 MAF
Apexi Z32 suction kit
Injector Dynamics ID1000 top feed high impedance fuel injectors (new)
HKS top feed fuel rail (new)
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, Aeromotive 10AN filter and Aeromotive AN push lock lines (new)
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
Wiseco 9:1 pistons, 86.5mm (new)
Eagle rods (new)
ARP head studs (new)
Apexi 1.1 head gasket (new)
Blitz i-sbc ID digital boost controller
Greddy turbo elbow and down pipe
Invidia 3” full exhaust with Magnaflow 3” spun metallic catalytic converter, and extra 3” Magnaflow race muffler to quiet it down
Greddy hot pipe
Greddy front mount intercooler
Greddy blow off valve

Yesterday it stranded me at my work because it fouled out all my plugs by covering them with unburned fuel just trying to start it. I am thinking of giving up on the ROM tune and going AEM, but everything I have read tells me that I shouldn't HAVE to do it. Are there any 2871 guys who have gone standalone?