levinitup

Hi everyone,

i am new to this website and i am seeking help. tips and opinion base on your own experience. please hear me out. so here's the deal.

i have '92 nissan 240sx with a '98 s14 ka24de engine.

i bought this car with with the ka swapped already. i was told that the clutch was replaced as well.

after driving the car for couple months approx. about 3 - 4 months while cruising at the freeway and i wanted to shift down and i couldnt shift into any gears. so here what happens, i start the car on neutral and tries to step on the clutch pedal and it makes a rattling noise and i cant get it into any gears. so what i ended up doing to get the car home is before starting it i put it to 1st gear and crank it, and it would shoot the car and start driving and i would shift without using the clutch just so i can pick up a little bit of speed.

i have read alot of threads already regarding about the same problem. and i have downloaded a fsm and watch a couple videos on how to change the clutch.

i just want to get more info and tips and what to watch for doing this replacement.

i have purchased a exedy clutch for the '98 ka24de engine.
and i will be resurfacing my flywheel.

i have already tried adjusting the pushrod for the clutch pedal and it didnt work.

please let me know what to exactly what to look for and any tips on how to get the tranny out.

such as what do you recommend for tranny fluid. which rear main seal. which silicone..

TORQUES? for flywheel, pressure plate?

TOOLS: what to use? what should i have on doing this.

i have a experience on how to replace a clutch but not on the s chassis, i also own a '86 corolla and replaced my clutch couple times.

i am planning on doing this tomorrow.

thanks my fellow 240sx drivers.

let5l1de

first of all, congrats to your first post!

second, i'd like to introduce you to the search dropdown located on the top right area of the navigation bar.

You most definitely have a completely work clutch and might even have a damaged diaphragm. Look for the clutch disc to have wear all the way down to the rivets. Just the 3 or 4mm difference in clutch wear makes a huge difference. Also look at the pressure plate for excessive wear on the fingers and on the disc surface area. If you drop the clutch often, ride the clutch and or clutch kick, you may want to replace the flywheel since its most likely heat checked, cracked and scored. The throw out brg is most likely chewed up as well. Just replace it with a new one and be sure to properly lube the moving metal parts.

g/l

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levinitup

thanks alot for your quick response, thats what i have suspected, i think the diaphragm went out. and no i dont abuse the car that much, it's my dd.

bmoses

Before you do anything, check your hydraulic lines and attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. Do this the same way you bleed brakes. Look it up if you are not sure how. Two people really help to do this job. If there's even a little bit of air in your lines, your pedal might feel normal but you would not be disengaging the clutch like you think you are.

levinitup

okay, sure will do it tomorrow, but heres what i have done already, i checked all the lines, clutch mc, clutch slave. and theres seems to be no leak or any sign of oil residue around. when i adjust the pushrod assuming that it wasnt pushing the mc enough to push the slave. it actually didnt help and made the pedal so much harder to step on. so i ended up putting it back to normal setting.

by the way, when im on neutral and i try to step on the clutch it makes a really loud rattling noise.

but before i try replacing the clutch i will try bleeding it first. any brand for the fluid you guys would recommend? thanks in advance

thank you!!

TTrx7Pete

Regular Dot 3 or 4 Brake Fluid is all you need for that.

Definitely bleed it and see if that helps.

The rattling could be a bad throwout bearing. Also check your transmission fluid levels and make sure it's topped off.

Other than that, if you go about replacing the clutch, use the FSM. It will have all of the torque values and the order/steps of removing the transmission bolts. It's a pretty straight forward process if you have replaced a clutch on an AE86.

Just make sure to make your life easier that you have a lift, transmission jack, a friend, and some pneumatic tools. Swivels are a bonus.

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1997 Nissan Silvia

shmiddy

thats good advice. you wanna make sure everything is working properly with the simple stuff 1st before doing a job like a clutch.

check tranny fluid, hydrolic lines, slave cylinder, and the clutch master cylinder for leaks. if all checks out ok then make further hyposisies

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levinitup

thank you guys, what tranny fluid do you guys prefer?

TTrx7Pete

I run Royal Purple Synthetic 75/90 (i think) in my RX-7, it's been a while since I changed it since I hardly drive it.

I'm running GL-4/5 in my SR20's transmission. I recommend Royal Purple brand though, it's all most of us RX-7 guys use.

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1993 AW Mazda RX-7
1997 Nissan Silvia

SilviaSR20DET

pennzoil synchromesh ftw!!!!

S14DB

Not with our syncro's...

I like Mobil1 75w-90. A lot of people like the Redline MT90.
But really any 90w will keep the gears happy.



The rattling noise can be 3 things:
If the clutch was operating normally it would be the TOB going bad or the input being so bad the input shaft is walking.
Diaphragm going out and binding up.
Spring popping out and wedging between the diaphragm and clutch.

I think it's one of the later cause the clutch is not disengaging. Going to have to replace the clutch and the diaphragm.



When inspecting the MC/SC, Did you have someone pump the clutch pedal while you watched the SC operation?

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levinitup

thanks alot.

yeah i had someone pump the clutch pedal and it was fine.

by the way i have purchased a lucas 80/90 what do you guys think?

thanks alot for the help i really appreciate it.

levinitup

okay pulled out the tranny today, found out that where the throw bearing goes broke in half.

i dont really know what that part is called but, theres the tranny shaft and theres like a housing for the shaft and then thats where the throw out bearing slides back and forth.

that part broke and it separated from the tranny.

levinitup

okay the part that broke was the input shaft, but i have fixed it already.

matter fact i have fixed the car already and test drove it.

but my main concern now is that i feel like the clutch is slipping this time. i have purchase a brand new exedy clutch which came with a brand new disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing.

btw, i didnt think i had to resurface my flywheel it looks really good, no grooves or engravements on the flywheel.

is the clutch no good for the ka24de? i feel like its reall not bitting at all. or do i just need to break it down more.?

S14DB

It still needs time for the disc and pressure plate to heat cycle for it to get to full clamp. Disc also needs to wear in a deposit some material on the flywheel/PP.

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levinitup

i thought so, thank you so much, so maybe around 500 miles of breaking in