Originally Posted by FaLKoN240 I followed you back on IG. You've come A LONGGGGGGGGG way. It's always great to see someone make their passion of cars into a career that they enjoy. Congrats and best of luck. I know you'll actually finish the car and fucking DRIVE IT. Unlike most posers on here.

Originally Posted by Apex Eight Amazing work. Keep it up!

Originally Posted by BiG MiKE86 Oh wow this is going to be an insane chassis! Loving your work man

Originally Posted by OBEEWON What's your instagram? Would like to follow this build since im not on here a lot. Seriously good welding. I need to get my skill up.

Originally Posted by Hoonigan19 hey man, Your CRAZY AS FUCK. awesome craftsmanship. Nice tig welds btw!

Originally Posted by yetijeff man I remember following the old build thread... awesome work man you have come a long way in a very short time. PROPS!

Originally Posted by NISSeAN I was confused with your selling the front clip, now I see you're a boss.

Originally Posted by Roc777 Amazing work cant wait to see the rest

Originally Posted by aga that rubber is insane. rubber's gonna rub. rub rub rub.

Originally Posted by tricky_ab Whoa! I'll be watching this build for sure! This is amazing fabrication work that you've done, so far.

Originally Posted by DreamN This is all awesome an all, but where are the EVO rear seats now? lol

UPDATE!!

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The girlfriend and I make a pretty good team, here we are finishing up the firewall riveting process.






Sometimes you have to do whatever is comfortable. Even if it’s getting into an odd position to get a weld completed.




Welded in the driver side strut mount plate. My friend, Zach, came down for the weekend to lend a hand with some of the welding.


There it sits, the almost completed front structure. In the background near the firewall you can see the rear vertical support tubes for the strut towers welded to the saddle type base plates made of .125” steel.


Front suspension is going back in. I had some trouble adjusting the height on the passenger side PBM coilover so I gave up at that point and just continued working, I will address that issue soon. You can see the incomplete caster arm mount on the driver side.


.25” Stainless steel caster mounts. Formed on a press brake for the most part then I cut a small slit into each of the lower bends and took it past 90* to achieve the current angle. Then I filled the v groove with a stainless weld.


Here they are tack welded into position.










Dropped the built KA-T back into the car and took it for a photo shoot in the driveway. :P






Ordered some cool stuff. Tilton pedal assembly with reverse mount triple masters, this was my best option given the lack of space on the outside of the firewall now. Brake bias adjuster not pictured.


That is a 98” long 1.25”x.095” mild steel tube about to be bent 6 times with 4 different rotations, how fun! Why mild-steel and not DOM? Because mild-steel is weaker and I want to keep the DOM main structure undamaged in case I ever do get into an accident of some sort. That is the reason the new frame rails are so short, more crush zone.


Alright now that I worked some voodoo magic, I ended up with this. A perfect upper V-mount support made out of one single tube.




Quick mock up of it sitting in the bay, and no the radiator won't sit up top.




For the same reason I used a weaker tube; I will also use these cool non-interlocking connectors. Same reason as above these are weaker than the interlocking type and won't transfer as much force into the DOM structure.






Some cool little tabs that my girlfriend tacked 6mm nuts to that are being used to support and hold the fenders in place via .25” solid steel rods.

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Originally Posted by Dima1127 subbed, keep the updates coming.

Originally Posted by bova17 Thats exactly what I want to do, looks amazing and definitely one of the best fabrication builds

Originally Posted by denian_cellphone I'm loving every little bit in this build thread. Definitely subscribing for more!

Originally Posted by JohanM damn dude, i have fallow you on instagram and seen a lot of your work through time and this is just amazing man.

Originally Posted by xoxide Gun it towards the nearest mailbox, rip the ebrake, countersteer.

Originally Posted by GTR-Garage Handling, power and style must be in harmony.

Originally Posted by skrizzi I'd be careful with the use of aluminum rivets on steel. Dissimilar metal corrosion is a bitch, and I've heard of aluminum rivets completely rusting out on steel patch panels (doesn't take long either). http://www.aluminiumdesign.net/desig...on-resistance/| That link has an example of aluminum sheet and steel fasteners, used in an automotive application. Dope build though. Did you notch the tubes manually?

UPDATE!!

I've been really busy, so I just waited until I made some progress before I finally updated my build thread. Also, if you haven't seen my little feature on Speedhunters, check it out! THE CREATOR'S THEME #IAMTHESPEEDHUNTER

Everything else is written in great details below. Looking forward to seeing what you guys think of my progress. ^__^

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The end goal for this car is to be a rolling fortress of tubing and fabrication art that I call the “Spirit of Fortune." I will be fabricating every part of this car myself, from the chassis to the suspension links. I have spent countless hours on the tube designs for it to be functional, yet visually aggressive. All of the lines are pre-meditated.


In order to mount the front bash bar and lower splitter support, I needed to design a mount to attach to the ends of the frame rails. This slip joint mount is what I came up with.


It will bolt onto a receiving flange that has been welded to the ends of the forward frame rails with 6 bolts each. A cross bolt will be used to fix the bash bar and splitter support in place.


Next up was to design a bash bar that will support the front bumper. I used the recessed pockets for the position lights as the support location. The 1.5" tubing fits in nice and snug.




I have recently been working on some 2nd gen CTS-V caliper adapters. These are the final versions made of 4142 Chromoly before zinc plating. The upper knuckle whole needs to be drilled out to 9/16" to accept the 14mm bolts that the CTS-V calipers use. These are now available to purchase on our website. www.streetfaction.net


You might have noticed the upper V-mount support was missing vertical bracing to hold it up at the correct height in previous photos. So, keeping aesthetics in mind, these braces were made. I also added some simple corner bracing to the bar.


Now this part was a pain. I got it in the first attempt, but it wasn't easy. This is the 108" long splitter support, which is about to be bent 8 times with multiple rotations.


6 bends in and it's going great. Up until the last bend was nearly impossible due to the part contacting certain parts of the hydraulic bender.


The bender needed to be reverted back to manual operation for half of the bend and then back to hydraulic to finish it up.


After all that struggling, the splitter support came out perfect.




Slipped right into its respective mounts. Woohoo!


Now that the main support is done; I cut, bent, and notched the rest of supporting bracing.




Set up the TIG and laid some beads on all of the notched joints.




Some of the beads from the splitter support. Pictures are crappy.


Picked up all of my Zinc plated parts from a local shop, the finish looks amazing! The rotors will be cut later.


These strut towers are designed to sit higher than the OEM upper frame rails and position the coil over top mount .75” outward. They tie into the dash bar structure inside of the car to successfully join the front end to the rear end through the door bars.


The dash bar layout ties into the structural bulk head of the A-Pillars and triangulates into the factory structural bracing (only comes on the convertibles) above the transmission tunnel.


These are the intricately designed door bars with an incorporated Warren Truss design for strength.


The driver side has an untouched fender which allows you to see how wide of an over fender I will be making to cover the 18x11 Cosmis Racing wheels. The dark colored structural tubing on this car is A513 DOM.

The bright colored tubing is just your basic ERW Mild Steel tubing. This tubing will be used in high risk impact areas and is about half the strength of the main DOM chassis as to not transfer much of an impacts force.


The prototype 50mm wide body fender was made a few months back using sheet aluminum. A couple friends of mine helped with the shaping of it, the lines will be following those of the FC RX-7. The final version of these overs will look much different.


There’s a few hidden details in this engine bay. For example, the firewall has been swapped for a simple aluminum version which features a bead rolled step around the border and is military spec riveted into place. The removable upper V-mount support is designed specifically to hold an intercooler at just the right height within the bay. The lower splitter support is made from an assembly of tubes, but if you look closely you will notice that the main bordering tube is one piece that has been bent 8 times and still slides into the snug fitting slip mounts on the frame rails.


I came up with a removable slip-joint design for the mounting of the bash bar and lower splitter support. You can also see the incomplete castor arm mount on the frame rail made of .25” stainless steel.




Triangles are a strong shape, you can see the strut tower bracing that merges into the triangulated bracing of the dash bar.


The upper V-mount support is easily removable via four non-interlocking tubing clamps.


Due to lack of space in the engine bay, I decided to run a Tilton overhung manual pedal assembly. You can also see the custom collapsible steering shaft supported by a mount made out of an old KA24DE connecting rod. Hidden behind the steering shaft mount is a Howe 1.5:1 steering quickener.


In case you missed it in the previous pictures, the front frame rails were replaced by 2” x 4” x 3/16” rectangular tubing which is 12” shorter than the OEM rails. This was done mainly to increase to amount of crush zone in case of an accident. Not to mention the new rails are aesthetically more appealing.


If you pay close attention, you will notice that all of braces within the tube structure merge together for strength, it’s most clear within the door bar design.


Yes, that is a KA24DE sitting in the engine bay that will push 350 horses to the wheels with the help of the TD06-20g at 15psi.


In order to fit these 2nd generation CTS-V six-piston calipers, I designed some caliper adapter brackets on SolidWorks, stress tested them, and once they passed strength standards; I got them machined out of 4142 chromoly. The rotor and brackets are zinc plated black to resist corrosion.


Same goes for the rear. It’s a second generation CTS-V four-piston main caliper paired with a secondary Z32 used for the hydraulic E-brake that required a custom bracket to be designed and machined out of 6061-T6 aluminum.

To purchase a set like these, visit our site at www.streetfaction.net

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FOLLOW FOR UPDATES
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ONLINE SHOP: www.streetfaction.net