TheRealSy90

The timing should never be changed in an effort to correct the engines idle speed.


Were the butterflies in the intake manifold deleted when you removed all the emissions stuff? Could have something to do with it.

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S13.5F

Lol I'm talking about the mild dizzy adjustments from the outside. I didn't remove it and move it tooth or anything. For all I know it was off to begin with and now it's right. The reason I had to readjust the throttle is because I've had to make adjustments to compensate for rough low idle.

S13.5F

Car runs insane good now. Pulls like a champ. Smooth and hard. I can now experience the power gains from the cam swap, s14 upper plenum, and race balanced bottom end. It also has a lightened flywheel, racing clutch, and full exhaust headers and all. Oh yeah and a welded diff, lol. This thing hooks and moves now. Love it!!!

TheRealSy90

Even adjusting idle by rotating the dizzy is wrong. The idle should be solely adjusted with the iacv. Timing should be set mechanically and electronically and then not touched.


Now that you have the iacv again, the throttle plate is supposed to be FULLY closed at idle, and air should only be getting into the manifold via the iacv.

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S13.5F

Thank you for clarifying what I did!

kruked

If you are adjusting the throttle by means of the jam nut at the throttle WHEEL/BUTTERFLY, you are also throwing off the TPS.

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

TheRealSy90

Yep, so you'd have to adjust the TPS sensor every single time. Another reason for it to remain fully closed at idle.

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kruked

Some years back, I wasn't aware of that off rip and I kept chasing my tail. It took me about an hour to realize that I wasn't getting anywhere.

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

S13.5F

Exactly. I've had the volt meter glued to my hip this whole time. Constantly testing everything. Including tps. Ive kept a little box in the car Since I've been in bug fix mode. 10Mil, 14Mil, 19Mil, 22Mil, 5/8 plug sockets and wrenches. Phillips, flathead, needle nose pliers, Allen wrenches, a few extensions, vacuum tester and the volt meter. Everything needed to loosen/ tighten/ test everything pertaining to air/fuel/spark. It was a battle to work all the bugs but it was worth it.

kruked

Are you not comprehending anything that most of us are saying?

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

S13.5F

Sounds like I lot of male testosterone egos trying to be "right".

A little "I know more than you's" and some "you obviously don't know what your doing's".

Listen, I've worked my ass off rebuilding this car without previously knowing ANY 240SX specific knowledge. And I did it all by myself. I needed some help. i.e. some 240sx KA24DE specific things I may have over looked.

The timing is SPOT ON. This car was sitting in a field for two years in pieces with a rod knock. wires everywhere. everything fucked up. I didnt start with this car intact. This was a ground up balanced, blueprinted, every factory spec torque, volt, ohm, levels, and measurements had to be dialed in. EVERYTHING was off. and without the car being factory spec'd out it was a tedious back and fourth effort. Especially since I didn't already know 240 specific things. This has been a MAJOR learning curve. Plus this is now my daily. And I needed it remotely drivable. So until I got it perfect I had to mess with throttle screws, and dizzys just to back and forth to work. Every night I'd come home and cross another thing off the list. Well last night and this morning I got it all fixed and dialed in right. which included setting the dizzy back to where it should be and the throttle adjustment back to where it should be.

Does that explain my end a little clearer??? or do you need more details

TheRealSy90

Sounds like you need a standalone EMS for your baller engine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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S13.5F

lol its far from "baller". it was built well though. rotating assembly balanced to the gram, everything blueprinted. block was fully disassembled and hot tanked. cylinders honed, valves were professionally cleaned and reseated. all new parts seals, bearings, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing chain kit. every step of the assembly was torqued to spec. even the 7 in pound bolts on the front cover to the 44lb specs for the brackets. I'll tell you whats scary, cam shaft sprocket bolts 130+ ft lb torque. I swear you'd think it was going to break a cam. scared me every time I did it. (jim wolf adjustable cam sprockets)

The result is an engine with immaculate compression, not a drop leaking anywhere, and now the rich problem is gone it doesn't even remotely smoke. and the engine temp stays a notch below the half way mark. the noisiest part of the engine are the injectors. not even the slightest valve tick. Im proud of it. I took my time and did it right. its got 950 miles on it lol.

Today some dude in a decked out crown vic v8 (ghetto rims, exhaust, paint job god knows what else) felt the need to race me. those are rated around 250hp I'd say he was probably more like 200hp but either way I was walking him. pulling away nice and steady.

I don't have it dyno'd but i built this thing to have around 200hp N/A. Its why I balanced the rotating assembly. to squeeze as much hp out of it as possible. i knew it wouldn't be much but with everything else I did, It could only help. This thing pulls like crazy for an N/A. Id like to put it up against a stock SR20DET to see how it holds up.

I do plan on turbo. I wanna do suspension mods and get some wheels first though.

Once its turbo'd then it'll be baller, lol