SR Owners... More HP Easy Mod... Catch Can Setup - Page 7 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

g_mac530 · 04-19-2009, 09:25 PM

Im putting things together to get a hybrid valve cover made by MA. My question is what catch can should I run? Should I just get one with a drain and just run one line from the vc to the can and have it drain to the oilpan or should I run a line from the vc to a catch can and then from the can back to the intake?

*slider2828* · 04-19-2009, 09:49 PM

No you need to pipe it back into your intake after the MAFS. The turbo is the best source of internal negative pressure in your car. This will help the life of your motor and more HP. Especially when you are running at the track. If you have a or going to have MA make a hybrid S13.4 valve cover, then t doesn't really matter because your head has oil passages back into the upper oil pan, so you don't need to worry about train back. Pipe back into your intake, your engine will thank you for it.

*slider2828* · 04-19-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX

Okay, so I have a real question for Blu808 and slider because I am genuinely interested in purchasing this. (especially since my setup is JANK right now).

There is no drain for the catch can on your particular setup, right? So if the catch can accumulates oil (which it eventually will, right?) how do you drain it? Remove the lines and dump it?

My setup is super lame right now, just a line routed from the T back, and then one to a "catch-can" (which I think is a spray can?) and a breather filter glued on top. EEEWW.

Also, I see you're running the line off the catch can before the MAF. How would you do this if you were running an Apex'i filter? Make another pipe in front of the MAF so you can run the line into it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by jr_ss

It depends on what type of catch-can system you are using... If you are using an open catch-can system (vented can), then I wouldn't plumb it back into the intake tract at all. I'd hook up your hoses to the VC and leave it like that, it'll vent itself. If you have a closed system(non-vented can), I'd get the special fittings needed to have it plumbed to the exhaust, after the turbo. The exhaust gases passing the fitting will create a venturi effect and will suck all that stuff out of the head through the can and into the exhaust. You can go before the turbo too but, that means you're sucking all that crap from the head straight into your turbo. Personally I wouldn't want it setup that way...

I run a vented can that has 2 hoses from the VC and a drain, that's plumbed back into the upper oil pan, so anything that does collect in the can goes back into the motor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mysharonna

Would like to know also.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRpetey

so what works better? putting the line before the maf or after? and will it work if the top fitting is welded on the side instead?

Dun need to purchase, you can just bring it to a local weld shop. I think I had pictures of hte setup already. ANyways..... THe drainback is through the head, because the has oil passages to drain back into the upper oil pan, so you don't need any drain back at all. After the turbo or the exhaust is a good source, but its harder to plumb... All stock intakes from Nissan has a opening to be piped from the VC to the intake. Its WAY easier to plumb if you have the drain back system in my pictures with a catch to the intake. After the mafs is best because you don't want that crap to be metered..... Also if you have a catch, it catches about 80% of the crap, so you don't need to worry there is dirt and stuff flying back into the turbo. If you are REALLY anal, stuff steel wool into the can and that catches about 90% of crap.....

g_mac530 · 04-19-2009, 10:42 PM

ok thanks that clears things up

PoorMans180SX · 04-20-2009, 09:34 AM

Thanks!

Luke, you have any pics of the modifications you did to the baffling?

*slider2828* · 04-20-2009, 09:49 AM

He doesn't.... But its easy, drill 6 holes under where the top port comes out of.... Just remember the placement of the top port is critical because too far back and you miss the baffling...

born2boost · 04-20-2009, 10:04 AM

here is what we did for crankcase pressure

Ill take a final pic with the lines built
2 -12 an lines (with added baffling) to some moroso catch cans
ive ran 2 events and just drained them and theres not much there. I havent logged crankcase pressure yet but i might soon.

PoorMans180SX · 04-20-2009, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

He doesn't.... But its easy, drill 6 holes under where the top port comes out of.... Just remember the placement of the top port is critical because too far back and you miss the baffling...

Cool. I'm going to shave the letters off my valve cover anyway, so I won't have to worry about hitting them.

Very good thread btw, +1 imaginary rep to you and Luke.

*slider2828* · 04-20-2009, 02:36 PM

Please duct back into the intake, having it blow out the front doesn't help reduce pressure...... If you compare it to stock you are increasing crankcase pressure... Atmosphere = 0 pressure, Intake = negative pressure.....

4x4le · 04-20-2009, 06:25 PM

Yea, the only thing they are really doing there is giving the pressure more places to escape. The amount of oil dont mean you dont have pressure. Lots of oil dont mean you have lots of pressure. Lots of blow by dont mean you have lots of oil.

Blow by is the gases that seap past your rings.
Crank case pressure is the pressure that builds up due to it and can be reduced depending on how your rout your ventilation.
The oil has to do with how strait of a shot the blow by gasses have to your can.

I have tried thinking of several different ways after seeing this thread to run a drain back can from the bottom fitting and routing the line off the top up to the T and than keeping the other side of the T going to my can and then my turbo inlet.

Anyways, I guess Im still going to do it the way shown in this thread because it is the smartest and there are less lines to mess with and its just plain smart.

I REALLY want to see a pic though. I just hear 6 holes, not to big not too small, be carefull of placement although its easy (lol no hate) but as critical as it probably is to get this just right I really would love to see this done first.

And how much would it be if I just send my cover out again? You could take all the pics of it you want!

nsn240 · 04-20-2009, 08:26 PM

Jesus this thread is a mess, so much random misinformation and junk.

If you can sort through it it's legit, I'm glad this thread finally sets this topic straight with some good information--- it's been discussed so many fucking times its ridiculous.

Setup from Blu looks good, my only question is why not route the tubes like the "s13.4" cover?
ex) Run Block vent --> rear VC vent then "T" vent --> the intake?

How did you guys determine that rear area was the best spot to weld the new fitting? - Just cause thats where the baffling is?

Either way it looks good, should work as long as it's a closed system.

*slider2828* · 04-20-2009, 08:37 PM

Damn I straight hate taking off that damn valve cover....

6 holes under the top breather, I think luke use d 1/8" drill bit and drilled 6 holes just spaced evenly about 1/8" apart in a honeycome cluster in the baffle..... Someone can take a picture and I can point you guys along...

-Ken

4x4le · 08-25-2009, 08:54 PM

BACK FROM THE DEAD!!!

Im not going to take any pics of the underside though although I kept begging for them. Luke does GREAT work and its worth your time and money to send it to him to have done.

Here is mine.

I sent him a brand new OEM blank (no paint) valve cover for him to do the modifications to and then I had a local powdercoater bake it up.

Im still waiting to install it because Im a noob (apparently) that ordered the wrong an fittings.

*slider2828* · 08-26-2009, 09:52 AM

So you had luke do this? Luke is really cool to the community, I don't think he minds taking pictures of the under side really.... I have been thinking about routing the PCV side to the negative pressure of the catch can. That would really flatten out the pressure build up on the other bank and the turbo with the negative pressure catch can would definitely be a great source of vacuum than that crappy 2mm opening for vacuum on the intake manifold side....

4x4le · 08-26-2009, 08:43 PM

Yea luke did my cover although I had someone local do the powder.

He is great. I may post pics if he says its cool. I cant remember what he said about it really. Even at that, many people arnt going to have the capability to weld on their cast aluminum valve cover so they would most likely have him do it anyways.

What I am interested in is the possibility of using my exhaust as the vaccume source instead of my turbo inlet. Im wanting to go blow through and i think im going to have a custom maf housing made or run a pmas maf and not ever introducing crank case ventalation to the inkake system would be a great way to keep it spotless in there.

*slider2828* · 08-26-2009, 09:32 PM

Yeah just message him, but the concept of the system came from me.... he executed lol...

steve shadows · 08-27-2009, 12:27 AM

I would make sure you are getting perfect full vacuum to the front of the compressor direct to the crank case and not just sourcing from the valve cover just something to keep in mind.

Just another nod on this.

I had my S13 SR on the Dyno Dynamics at 17 PSI of boost pull 395 WHP without the Crank Case vent hooked up to vacuum (i.e. compressor intake)

AFTER- I hooked up a stainless HKS catch can and ran the line from vacuum to the crank case my hp at 17 PSI went up to 412 WHP!!!

That is a major gain at the crank, close to 25 hp...

The more HP you are making the more you have to gain. The results are better on motors will more miles and factory clearances on the rings etc.

*slider2828* · 08-27-2009, 09:46 AM

God steve, I wanna run a nascar vacuum pump hahaha!!! I think those are belt driving but they get like upwards of 60 psi of vacuum lol, but I think that will turn our motors inside out lol, just like the sour candy face sucking in.

Like Steve said, the turbo is the greatest source of vaccum on our cars. Exhaust needs to escape at a certain velocity to create a large enough vacuum to make a difference. Yes the exhaust can help, but google it as there is a certain angle of the bung to create the greatest pull for vacuum, but either way, turbo is the best or an external source like an actual vacuum pump...

4x4le · 08-27-2009, 06:25 PM

Ok, exhaust idea is out, I really figured you would have to flow a ton of exhaust for it to make as much pull as the turbo.

steve shadows · 08-27-2009, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4le

Ok, exhaust idea is out, I really figured you would have to flow a ton of exhaust for it to make as much pull as the turbo.

You can do the Exhaust method, just make sure you do it right.

Supras and cars with biggest displacements work much better.

But good pointing this out

Exhaust is also a good way to set itup...make sure you use some heavy duty check valves, stainless lines and set up the cir properly though

VQMaxFan · 08-29-2009, 03:36 AM

Im a bit confused, possibly has something to do with the time. haha

But from what I've collected so far, in my situation: Blow-by not being a problem with my motor, and i only really do drag, auto cross, and just drive the thing around is to just leave it routed stock and put a catch can that doesn't vent between the timing chain facing end of the T and the vacuum source.

Also mine doesn't have the separator on the firewall side. Since i'll have a catch can on the vacuum side of the T I'm assuming there shouldn't be a problem with the stock separator missing? Atleast other than the fact that the new catch can would be doing double duty.

Let me know what you guys think about what ive gathered from this thread. Thanks!

*slider2828* · 08-30-2009, 11:55 PM

Yes there is a sock separator but I didn't use one because it won't fitwith some turbo manifolds. Secondly, I just plain didn't use one because I wanted to relieve as much crankcase pressure as possibly and the separator really becomes an inhibitor to flow. I run on full course tracks with lots of elevation changes, like laguna seca, infineon, and thunderhill which WILL through oil to the top of the crank case just because of the elevation. Yes you can do it your way, as long as its a closed system, BUT the stock design is retarded because yes there is an oil separator, but that T is just plain stupid. It passes right through and nothing gets captured BACK into the oil system. So if any excess oil goes through, it goes into the catch can and you will need to empty it. This system basically is a really closed system where any oil or oil will be fed back into the head and back into the pan eventually. Hence why this design mimics a S13.4 valve cover without the expense of getting 2 valve covers, cutting it and welding it.

4x4le · 09-01-2009, 09:33 PM

*slider2828* · 09-02-2009, 12:03 AM

That is SEXY!!! Just remember to have a air tight catch can which is plumbed back into the intake track....

JacksonBrown · 09-02-2009, 09:08 AM

Question: that 90 fitting on the top/back of the valve cover -- why did you put it there? I'm assuming because pressure rises so therein the natural place to put it, correct?

*slider2828* · 09-02-2009, 09:47 AM

Its there because there is a baffle right under there.... So based on the valve cover design there is sorta like a filter. Ensures that only air escapes from the valve cover.

4x4le · 09-02-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slider2828

That is SEXY!!! Just remember to have a air tight catch can which is plumbed back into the intake track....

Thanks bro.

I actually do have a can installed, it is just out of the shot. The braided line runs to it, and you can see if you look really close that reinforced clear hose is plumbed back into my turbo inlet right before the turbo. (that line running from the catch can.)

moses · 11-22-2009, 05:26 PM

So how long till this is complete with the final product and how much is being charged for this? Very interested

blu808 · 11-22-2009, 08:05 PM

anyone that wants one PM me or slider2828 this is not a for sale thread.

4x4le · 11-22-2009, 09:14 PM

Yup. And final product is out..

Hey Luke. Bro, I still need the graphic emailed or pm'd to me so I can get some decals printed btw. I didnt get my car in the mag last event anyways because I hit the wall before the photoshoot....... Cars almost back together so send me the graphic design!!!!

btw, still loving the valve cover to death! People think im a baller or something and it creates more conversation than anything else on my car.

04-19-2009, 09:49 PM	#182
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	No you need to pipe it back into your intake after the MAFS. The turbo is the best source of internal negative pressure in your car. This will help the life of your motor and more HP. Especially when you are running at the track. If you have a or going to have MA make a hybrid S13.4 valve cover, then t doesn't really matter because your head has oil passages back into the upper oil pan, so you don't need to worry about train back. Pipe back into your intake, your engine will thank you for it. __________________ Turn and Burn!

04-20-2009, 09:34 AM	#185
PoorMans180SX Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Michigan Age: 33 Posts: 5,430 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: PoorMans180SX Feedback Score: 16 reviews	Thanks! Luke, you have any pics of the modifications you did to the baffling? __________________ Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs.

04-20-2009, 09:49 AM	#186
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	He doesn't.... But its easy, drill 6 holes under where the top port comes out of.... Just remember the placement of the top port is critical because too far back and you miss the baffling... __________________ Turn and Burn!

04-20-2009, 10:04 AM	#187
born2boost Leaky Injector Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Charlotte/Concord, NC Posts: 99 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	here is what we did for crankcase pressure Ill take a final pic with the lines built 2 -12 an lines (with added baffling) to some moroso catch cans ive ran 2 events and just drained them and theres not much there. I havent logged crankcase pressure yet but i might soon. __________________ www.HaydenHorton.com

04-20-2009, 02:36 PM	#189
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Please duct back into the intake, having it blow out the front doesn't help reduce pressure...... If you compare it to stock you are increasing crankcase pressure... Atmosphere = 0 pressure, Intake = negative pressure..... __________________ Turn and Burn!

04-19-2009, 09:25 PM	#181
g_mac530 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Allentown, PA Age: 36 Posts: 576 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	Im putting things together to get a hybrid valve cover made by MA. My question is what catch can should I run? Should I just get one with a drain and just run one line from the vc to the can and have it drain to the oilpan or should I run a line from the vc to a catch can and then from the can back to the intake?

04-19-2009, 10:42 PM	#184
g_mac530 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Allentown, PA Age: 36 Posts: 576 Trader Rating: (11) Feedback Score: 11 reviews	ok thanks that clears things up

04-20-2009, 06:25 PM	#190
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Yea, the only thing they are really doing there is giving the pressure more places to escape. The amount of oil dont mean you dont have pressure. Lots of oil dont mean you have lots of pressure. Lots of blow by dont mean you have lots of oil. Blow by is the gases that seap past your rings. Crank case pressure is the pressure that builds up due to it and can be reduced depending on how your rout your ventilation. The oil has to do with how strait of a shot the blow by gasses have to your can. I have tried thinking of several different ways after seeing this thread to run a drain back can from the bottom fitting and routing the line off the top up to the T and than keeping the other side of the T going to my can and then my turbo inlet. Anyways, I guess Im still going to do it the way shown in this thread because it is the smartest and there are less lines to mess with and its just plain smart. I REALLY want to see a pic though. I just hear 6 holes, not to big not too small, be carefull of placement although its easy (lol no hate) but as critical as it probably is to get this just right I really would love to see this done first. And how much would it be if I just send my cover out again? You could take all the pics of it you want!

04-20-2009, 08:26 PM	#191
nsn240 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: pa Posts: 641 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Jesus this thread is a mess, so much random misinformation and junk. If you can sort through it it's legit, I'm glad this thread finally sets this topic straight with some good information--- it's been discussed so many fucking times its ridiculous. Setup from Blu looks good, my only question is why not route the tubes like the "s13.4" cover? ex) Run Block vent --> rear VC vent then "T" vent --> the intake? How did you guys determine that rear area was the best spot to weld the new fitting? - Just cause thats where the baffling is? Either way it looks good, should work as long as it's a closed system.

04-20-2009, 08:37 PM	#192
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Damn I straight hate taking off that damn valve cover.... 6 holes under the top breather, I think luke use d 1/8" drill bit and drilled 6 holes just spaced evenly about 1/8" apart in a honeycome cluster in the baffle..... Someone can take a picture and I can point you guys along... -Ken __________________ Turn and Burn!

08-25-2009, 08:54 PM	#193
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	BACK FROM THE DEAD!!! Im not going to take any pics of the underside though although I kept begging for them. Luke does GREAT work and its worth your time and money to send it to him to have done. Here is mine. I sent him a brand new OEM blank (no paint) valve cover for him to do the modifications to and then I had a local powdercoater bake it up. Im still waiting to install it because Im a noob (apparently) that ordered the wrong an fittings.

08-26-2009, 09:52 AM	#194
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	So you had luke do this? Luke is really cool to the community, I don't think he minds taking pictures of the under side really.... I have been thinking about routing the PCV side to the negative pressure of the catch can. That would really flatten out the pressure build up on the other bank and the turbo with the negative pressure catch can would definitely be a great source of vacuum than that crappy 2mm opening for vacuum on the intake manifold side.... __________________ Turn and Burn!

08-26-2009, 08:43 PM	#195
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Yea luke did my cover although I had someone local do the powder. He is great. I may post pics if he says its cool. I cant remember what he said about it really. Even at that, many people arnt going to have the capability to weld on their cast aluminum valve cover so they would most likely have him do it anyways. What I am interested in is the possibility of using my exhaust as the vaccume source instead of my turbo inlet. Im wanting to go blow through and i think im going to have a custom maf housing made or run a pmas maf and not ever introducing crank case ventalation to the inkake system would be a great way to keep it spotless in there.

08-26-2009, 09:32 PM	#196
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Yeah just message him, but the concept of the system came from me.... he executed lol... __________________ Turn and Burn!

08-27-2009, 12:27 AM	#197
steve shadows Post Whore! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: LA and OC Posts: 8,202 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I would make sure you are getting perfect full vacuum to the front of the compressor direct to the crank case and not just sourcing from the valve cover just something to keep in mind. Just another nod on this. I had my S13 SR on the Dyno Dynamics at 17 PSI of boost pull 395 WHP without the Crank Case vent hooked up to vacuum (i.e. compressor intake) AFTER- I hooked up a stainless HKS catch can and ran the line from vacuum to the crank case my hp at 17 PSI went up to 412 WHP!!! That is a major gain at the crank, close to 25 hp... The more HP you are making the more you have to gain. The results are better on motors will more miles and factory clearances on the rings etc. __________________ Like Me on FaceBook !

08-27-2009, 09:46 AM	#198
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	God steve, I wanna run a nascar vacuum pump hahaha!!! I think those are belt driving but they get like upwards of 60 psi of vacuum lol, but I think that will turn our motors inside out lol, just like the sour candy face sucking in. Like Steve said, the turbo is the greatest source of vaccum on our cars. Exhaust needs to escape at a certain velocity to create a large enough vacuum to make a difference. Yes the exhaust can help, but google it as there is a certain angle of the bung to create the greatest pull for vacuum, but either way, turbo is the best or an external source like an actual vacuum pump... __________________ Turn and Burn!

08-27-2009, 06:25 PM	#199
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Ok, exhaust idea is out, I really figured you would have to flow a ton of exhaust for it to make as much pull as the turbo.

08-29-2009, 03:36 AM	#201
VQMaxFan Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Mobile AL Age: 32 Posts: 464 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Im a bit confused, possibly has something to do with the time. haha But from what I've collected so far, in my situation: Blow-by not being a problem with my motor, and i only really do drag, auto cross, and just drive the thing around is to just leave it routed stock and put a catch can that doesn't vent between the timing chain facing end of the T and the vacuum source. Also mine doesn't have the separator on the firewall side. Since i'll have a catch can on the vacuum side of the T I'm assuming there shouldn't be a problem with the stock separator missing? Atleast other than the fact that the new catch can would be doing double duty. Let me know what you guys think about what ive gathered from this thread. Thanks!

08-30-2009, 11:55 PM	#202
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Yes there is a sock separator but I didn't use one because it won't fitwith some turbo manifolds. Secondly, I just plain didn't use one because I wanted to relieve as much crankcase pressure as possibly and the separator really becomes an inhibitor to flow. I run on full course tracks with lots of elevation changes, like laguna seca, infineon, and thunderhill which WILL through oil to the top of the crank case just because of the elevation. Yes you can do it your way, as long as its a closed system, BUT the stock design is retarded because yes there is an oil separator, but that T is just plain stupid. It passes right through and nothing gets captured BACK into the oil system. So if any excess oil goes through, it goes into the catch can and you will need to empty it. This system basically is a really closed system where any oil or oil will be fed back into the head and back into the pan eventually. Hence why this design mimics a S13.4 valve cover without the expense of getting 2 valve covers, cutting it and welding it. __________________ Turn and Burn!

09-01-2009, 09:33 PM	#203
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews

09-02-2009, 12:03 AM	#204
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	That is SEXY!!! Just remember to have a air tight catch can which is plumbed back into the intake track.... __________________ Turn and Burn!

09-02-2009, 09:08 AM	#205
JacksonBrown Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: recliner of rage Posts: 226 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Question: that 90 fitting on the top/back of the valve cover -- why did you put it there? I'm assuming because pressure rises so therein the natural place to put it, correct?

09-02-2009, 09:47 AM	#206
slider2828 Premium Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 5,824 Trader Rating: (13) Feedback Score: 13 reviews	Its there because there is a baffle right under there.... So based on the valve cover design there is sorta like a filter. Ensures that only air escapes from the valve cover. __________________ Turn and Burn!

11-22-2009, 05:26 PM	#208
moses Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jacksonville, ar Age: 34 Posts: 555 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: moses Feedback Score: 2 reviews	So how long till this is complete with the final product and how much is being charged for this? Very interested __________________ Thats what I said

11-22-2009, 08:05 PM	#209
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 38 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	anyone that wants one PM me or slider2828 this is not a for sale thread. __________________

11-22-2009, 09:14 PM	#210
4x4le Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Manchester, Tn Posts: 1,253 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Yup. And final product is out.. Hey Luke. Bro, I still need the graphic emailed or pm'd to me so I can get some decals printed btw. I didnt get my car in the mag last event anyways because I hit the wall before the photoshoot....... Cars almost back together so send me the graphic design!!!! btw, still loving the valve cover to death! People think im a baller or something and it creates more conversation than anything else on my car.

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