Black240Ct

similar to suspicious auto mounts, but mine are from ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1816796...&ul_noapp=true

they sit the motor a little bit forward where i had to trim the lower oil pan to clear the oem sway bar, and still had clearance 300zx trans issues.

granted it would fit, but i want as much ground clearance as i can get.

Mister.E

Yeah I just looked and I'm going to stick with the R154 and get a 4.6 rear end. My install is clean right now, but i can already tell that i will have to murder my tranny tunnel/firewall to get the adapter plate and CD009 smashed in there.

Here is how everything sits as of yesterday:



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BlackZenkiS14

Wow, that looks great man!!!

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Mister.E

Thank you! I still have so much more to do but I'm hoping to have it running in the next few weeks. I still need to change out the fuel pump and make the lines and then finish up interior wiring along with a few other things.

Here is my build thread if you are interested:

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=614797

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rswails

What is best Altima e fans to get, and for what setup?

Current setup:
Koyo Sr20det nflo radiator
s14
2jzgte vvti stock twins
Want A/C after getting initial setup working decently.

I know stock twins setup is way different than going single ( lots more room with single ), so please keep in mind I am asking about stock twin setup for now. Should I go slim fan of some sort, or make room for the Altima fans? Read more below.

I have done a lot of research on cooling and wanted to ask you guys this. I have an S14 with 2jz GTE vvti swap. I kept stock twins, engine is far back as possible before rear twin hits firewall. I bought a 1997 altima e fan for $30, ( 4 blade / 5 blade ), and still isn't enough clearance. I'm wondering if I should cut my rad supports to push things back, or spend more money for less CFM and get something more slim...

***EDIT*** I did cut my upper rad support to make it fit. I had to cut about 2". Also trimmed the e fan shroud to make it fit my radiator.

The kicker is I want to leave condenser in for AC, ( which I will hook up completely later ). This leaves less room, and makes more heat, but still I want opinions from similar setups.

As info, 1997 Altima e fan thickness is 4.5", not slim at all, but the 4 pin harness is compatible with s14 stock e fan connector.

I appreciate any help. I'm so ready to get this f u cker on the road!

NOLAGG

I have Oem 350z fans you could use which blow down houses lol

Sky80

I just replied to your email, sorry for the slow response.

I ran your exact setup in my 98 for almost two years. Working AC and all. Custom cut Altima fans, twin 5 blade mod and yes cut into the core support to make them fit. This pushes the condenser forward but there is still plenty of room. So much so that this year after going ProEFI and single I decided to add a pusher fan in front of the condenser (between the FMIC and condenser) and it triggers on with the AC switch from the ProEFI.

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'10 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT

rswails

Anyone know of a working FMIC intercooler kit for s14 2jzgte vvti with twins? I dont have easy access to weld custom bends.

My FMIC size is 2.5" O.D pipeing going in and out. I think that is how you measure it? The FMIC was setup for sr20det before so I have piping for that but doesn't look like it will help much.

I already have the air intake kit, just need hot pipe TO intercooler connection, and cold pipe to intake connection FROM the FMIC.

bova17

I would say it's very similar to the s13, the cold side can be just 2 90* bends and a few couplers. As far as the hot side goes I can't tell you exactly but you should be able to make the sr20 piping fit.

rswails

Very helpful pics bova17, quick question, if you have a stock hood, did your hood close with maf installed and everything else installed, with that setup?

bova17

I am not sure if it closes since I still have not put it on lol

BlackZenkiS14

Went to the drag strip tonight in the drift car, had a little trouble with getting the boost level I wanted, couldnt make over 18psi, but I'm overall fairly happy with the results.

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Black240Ct

heres how my 350z trans swap went. where it sits etc. i went with maverick motorsports kit, cd009 external slave, actclutch



ended up making the trans tunnel larger to make as much clearance as possible with the trans and ground


grossly mig'd some steel




exhaust and trans

Mister.E

So...1JZ in an S14 w/R154. Should i get a 4.625 or 4.636 gear set for my diff? Or is the difference between the two negligible?


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articzap

RPM...........4.625 Gear.4.636 Gear
8000 RPM 133.79 MPH 133.48 MPH
7500 RPM 125.43 MPH 125.13 MPH
7000 RPM 117.07 MPH 116.79 MPH
6500 RPM 108.71 MPH 108.45 MPH
6000 RPM 100.35 MPH 100.11 MPH
5500 RPM 91.98 MPH 91.77 MPH
5000 RPM 83.62 MPH 83.42 MPH
4500 RPM 75.26 MPH 75.08 MPH
4000 RPM 66.90 MPH 66.74 MPH
3500 RPM 58.54 MPH 58.40 MPH
3000 RPM 50.17 MPH 50.05 MPH
2500 RPM 41.81 MPH 41.71 MPH
2000 RPM 33.45 MPH 33.37 MPH
1500 RPM 25.09 MPH 25.03 MPH
1000 RPM 16.72 MPH 16.68 MPH

Math was done assuming 1:1 transmission ratio and 26" tire.

A burnout would make a bigger difference then difference between those two gear sets.

The real question is why do you want such a low gear. It's essentially useless.

BlackZenkiS14

Love how this turned out. Looking for 11's this summer.

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Mister.E

I was told that the gearing of the R154 is drastically different from the SR/KA/CD00A and that the 4.6 final gear was necessary to avoid having to drive at high RPM at low speeds, is that not true?


I'm a complete moron when it comes to gearing. Thanks for those numbers by the way!

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articzap

Most people who JZ swap opt for Q45 diff's, which are 3.5-3.6 depending on year. The small the number, the taller the final drive, the less RPM you turn at highway speed, the more top speed you can get per each gear.

The higher number final drives are often used in very low power setups to keep RPM's high, and in the torque span of the engine.

Mister.E

Damn, I'm a dweeb. Maybe a 3.6 would be best...I'm off to google to see if I can find a good gearing calculator, thanks for your help!

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Black240Ct

i jsut sold my 4.36 i used for my SR and am going back to 4.08 for this motor set up. im sure the torque will be improved with a 1jz

Mister.E

I'm going to find a 3.5 or 3.6 and give that a try. I'm still going to keep the factory 4.083 just in case.

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TJ_240

How was your experiience with the W58?

RaNMaN

I have a Q45 3.69 ring and pinion on an OBX helical differential in my original s14 diff housing. It was a lot of work to put together so I'm not going to just give it away but it goes together perfectly with the r154 and otherwise stock rear end.

I can't reuse any part of it with my new setup (3.13 pathfinder diff) so it's for sale. Message me if you're interested.

2stepGoesPowPow

Welp, had a good run. Now parting out my 717whp sil80. If anyone needs xcessive mount brackets/trans bracket, aluminum 1 pc driveshaft, r154 that needs a rebuild with shifter extension or wiring specialties harness for s13 with a haltech ecu pm me! Motor nfs.

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Mister.E

Thanks but i already bought a 3.6. I already have a 2 way differential so all I need to do is have the holes enlarged to 13mm. It's really not all that much work.


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NOLAGG

Why are yot parting it out?

RaNMaN

Yeah, but it's not exactly easy. I bought drill bits to do it myself but they didn't cut shit and I had to have a machine shop open them up. Then you have to set the new pinion height using a custom spacer and crush a new washer to the correct torque. The spacer needs to go to the other side of the diff and then set backlash. It might be easy to somebody that does this stuff everyday but I wouldn't call it easy to do right to the average joe.

2stepGoesPowPow

Dont feel like dumping the $2500+ to put my cd009 in this chassis. Ready to upgrade to a different car.

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TJ_240

Sad, did you ever considered the T56? that woul've been a way better upgrade than the cd009

fd94

1jz r154 s14 for sale located in Miami DL. Need it gone ASAP! http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=630178