tauntdevil

Sorry for the noobiness but seems like nothing has been posted for a bit so thought I would post up first practice plates... first time ever tig welding. Always did mig for years.

The right plate was when I first plugged in the welder and was trying to figure out the settings. Took me a second to figure out what was wrong.

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blockedwizard

Looking good devil, the ahp is an awesome machine. Have you played with the pulse setting at all yet? Going to try it tonight as I've only been using the pedal.

tauntdevil

Yeah a little. I like doing pulse with the pedal though instead of having the machine do it. Just feels better being in full control.

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blockedwizard

Ya that's the reason I haven't tried it yet, I feel a lot more comfortable adjusting amperage through pedal control

Trinidrift3

Mother of god that's bad ass! any running videos yet?

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blockedwizard

Welded SS for the first time tonight, been mostly practicing on aluminum. Getting nasty on the inside was better when I sped up but the puddle doesn't spread as much as aluminum so was having a hard time.

Ahp tools alpha tig 200dx
Around 40 amps
1/16th 2% Lanthanated electrode
1/16th 308 stainless filler
16g 3" Stainless pipe
100% Argon

blockedwizard

Thanks to tauntdevil helping with uploading the pictures!!!'

DeleriousZ

SS welds will prettymuch always look shitty unless you use some kind of backing or purge the tube you're welding with argon.

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z31 Lovin'
http://imageshack.us/a/img337/2396/lowerit.jpg

blockedwizard

Ya that's what I was guessing, I know with manifolds it a must but on exhausts is it gonna hurt having a little sugaring like that? Found out from a friend that I was using to much amperage. Going to try to start at 25a and work up for there.

kingston240

For 16g stainless your amps are about right.

Don't bevel 16g.
Work on your torch angle and speed. Your putting a lot of heat into the tube (wide haz) so i can tell your going too slow.

1/16" filler on 16g (1/16" wall tube) stainless is tough. Use a smaller filler and it will flow a little nicer.

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blockedwizard

Alright thanks Kingston ya I need to get some .45 filler and definitely speed up and keep amperage under control. Appreciate the feedback guys!!!!

blockedwizard

Finally getting it down
AHP alphatig200dx inverter tig welder
16g 3" stainless piping
2% Lanthanated electrode
25-30 amps
No filler

Just walked the cup I think is the proper term and kept moving. No more sugaring!!! sorry for clogging up this thread with this crap

tauntdevil

The issue with out using filler is that if you have any gap (which you will if you are cutting and making this into an exhaust) you will have to use filler so usually its best to learn with it. I unfortunately dont have time to go buy anything thin to practice on, instead I am working with mostly 1 1/4 inch piping .120 wall to practice with for my neighbor since thats mostly all he works with and once he thinks I am good enough, will give me some of his side jobs, etc.

Not that its a bad thing, just practicing with thinner material is a lot better for learning purposes as it is not as errr.. forgiving so could go too hot and blow a hole or two cold and not make a proper weld.

No clue the hell I am talking about, ignore me most likely...

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blockedwizard

Haha no your right just the 1/16th filler I have is to much for this 16g I think, would cool down the puddle every time I added filler, prob .45 would be better for this stuff. And I did cut the pipe in to sections with my MSC bandsaw but just made sure fitment was perfect, some spots I had to use filler due to bad fitment, but overall taking my time to ensure proper fitment ment that I could just fusion weld and believe me it's strong
I have a lot more to learn but progressing every day

ultimateforce

T6 manifold for 1,500hp+ drag cars. Hood clearance isn't an issue, fitting between head and stock frame rails and suspension towers is the main concern. Designed to work for R32-R34 chassis and RB swapped S13 and S14s. RB30 block, RB26 head in pictures.











Support for single or twin wastegates in this design. These are the prototype runners, the final design this week will be simplified. You can see the kink on the third runner required to miss the RB25 and RB26 engine mounts, which are different.

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Assistant Fabrication Manager / Welder at Raw Brokerage

McRussellPants

Turn on the pulse, set to .08, move/heat/move/heat/ect is the easiest way to get the stack of dimes everyone wants to see.

I'll usually do that on my exhausts around the rear axle so they have a weak point to snap on the track.

Also, .045 is good for schedule pipe, way too thick for 16g. get on that .035. toss all that 1/16th in the garbage since trying to use it will just mess you up.

blockedwizard

Ya thank you need to play with the pulse setting. Have to set up the trigger on the torch. I just ordered some .45 308, they didn't have anything smaller than that. Orders from USA Weld, I guess ill have to stop by the local wedding supply place if I get a day off this week.

Ordering a belt sander soon for making preping a lot easier, also need some deburring tools. As long I have good fitment I good, once I get size able gaps I struggle badly

GabeS14

Who would be interested in fabbing a 4" oval full titanium exhaust for an S14 chassis, ending into a wider oval outlet through the license plate area?
any idea of cost also?

PS I am located in Las Vegas

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E92 M3 19" wheels for sale///JWT Cams and Springs +30whp for sale... cheap.

Dolph_KYAS13

I really wanted this coilpack cover when I had my S13 and HKS never made one for the RB20 so I made my own



I also made up a vented version (If anyone is interested PM me)

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'93 Skyline Type M

tauntdevil

The issue I have with the package is the metal pedal. It slides around when trying to use it especially if you need to weld low.
Ended up making a base plate real quick. Didnt change any of my settings so was using:
1/16 2% thoriated tungsten
3/32 ER70S-2 filler
and no clue what type of steel it was. I have had it for about a year and decided I should cut it up for something. Magnets didnt attract to it or anything like that. Was difficult getting a solid weld with the pedal sliding all over the place xD

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blockedwizard

Looking good! That pedal is driving me made as well, thinking about either putting some adhesive plastic tabs on it to stop it or just screw it into the floor.

crzsteveo

this thread is awesome, it def is giving me inspiration to make my own headers.

so I have a basic Lincoln mig that has 4 amp settings, A,B,C,D and wire speed. that's about it.

what size wire and amp setting do you guys set to weld on the body metal, strut towers, etc. on a 240?

right now im just practicing with tac welds, new to the welding world

tauntdevil

Yeah, I bought some furnature rubber feet but that only works the first time you put it down then once the rubber gets dirty, slides just as easily. I thought about bolting it to the ground as well but I weld all over the place so wouldnt do me any good. This should work long enough until my plastic pedal comes in. Hoping its the correct connector. Couldnt find much information on the connectors :S

It depends on how strong your welder is.
I use to use a lincoln 140HD and my favorite was .30 wire. As far as speed/heat, depends if you are running gas or flux.
Stitching up the car is a good way to practice on thin metal but only if its a junker and not something you daily as if you mess it up too much, may put a part in risk.

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blockedwizard

Ya I weld in a tiny shed so ill prob end up screwing it down, ya idk about the connector issue. I know it uses the same exact pedal as the Eastwood ac/dc tig, so it seems to be popular with these cheaper welders. Let me know if it works out, good to know thy there more options out there.

Just purchased a belt sander, and getting some .35 308 filler so ill be posting up some pics when I start my turbo outlet and manifold fab work!!!

g2ic02

When extending lower control arms, is it stronger to use a lap joint or a butt joint? I have seen them done both ways.

slidenv8fc3s

alright i need some help here been a fabricator for the last 6 years now and every single time i build a turbo manifold after i finish welding it and get ready to put the runners back to the collector and head flange i always deal with the shrinkage i have not been able to figure out how to get away from it. I understand that its metal with heat so expanding and contracting i get that just want to see if anyone has kind of found a way to help minimize the shrinking.
heres one of the manifolds i am building right now with my welds and this manifold is the reason im posting this tonight cuz i about threw this thing across the shop when i went to put it back together

slidenv8fc3s

that weld is actually straight lol the picture got resized and screwed it all up

slidenv8fc3s

heres another

ultimateforce

Weld the runners attached to the collector and do four tack welds in a north south east west type fashion?

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slidenv8fc3s

but i get an even 1/16th to 1/8th inch gap at the head flange but not all runners do it equally