driftstyre

Damn. How clean is the metal? Try using a metal brush on a bench grinder and then clean it with acetone, inside and out. If you have a spare argon tank, try switching it.

Xracer

I normally use a scotch bright pad or 320 grit sand paper. then clean with wax/grease remover.

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bungl3

my new cooler pipes roughly made up, just with a mate at the minute whos tig'ing it all up

Xracer

Holy crap are you filling those gaps? I cant fill gaps for shit with a tig.

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blu808

Gaps are fun to fill with a tig. On stainless not only is it a huge waste of time, but it gets the metal too hot.

anyways sick ca18 setup. I cant wait to see the finished product. Is that a drag car with that turbo?

That welding looks good but it would look great if you guys cleaned the metal. A rule of thumb. Get the metal clean enough to eat off of.

that would have made a very nice weld if cleaned properly.

Also I wanted to say that besides my work, and bills that there hasn't been much fab work posted up. You guys have been great by keeping this thread going, but I want to see some effort on your parts, and see some pics.

Do you think its any easier for Bill or I taking pics, while having people yelling at you what they want. All while if it is wrong or if it gets a scratch you get fired.

Do some real fab. Some Man fab, and post some pics. Lets get some people motivated and step it up guys...

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blu808

Is that a shop vac air filter?

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babowc

lol, i've a blue one of those!!I dont know if I've asked this already,
but what do you think of the "chinese" tig machines...
http://smileytools.com/displayProduc...5&categoryId=1

Great for lowbudget beginner?

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blu808

Most likely it will weld like crap, and besides destroying whatever you try to weld, it will discourage you as a welder and make you loose interest.

On the other side, if it does weld it will most likely break down.

Buy a real tig. I bought my tig 4 years ago for $2000.00 I can sell it now for $1500.00 or so. And that is with using it almost everyday. A real tig welder is a good investment. Especially if you buy a well taken care of used miller or lincoln.


MAn up. Weld the real shit.

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Wiisass

Before we get to any fabwork, here's the sweet new gun that came the other day. I haven't even used it yet, but I'm saving the tight spots for last and then I will love having it. It's a flex neck and I could weld my hand holding the gun if it were properly grounded.





And here's some shots of the FC that's I've been working on for what seems like forever. Some of you Socal guys might recognize this car. Just picture it all together with a big sweet wing and a guy with a lot of tattoos driving.

All that's left is to weld the door bars on and put gussets all over the place. I would've had half of the door bars on tonight but ran out of gas at 10pm and my backup bottle is at a friends house.



Here's how it sits now. Halo still needs to be welded to the main hoop, but it's tucked up there pretty nicely and should be totally out of the way.



Due to the desired seating position, I had to move the main hoop back a little bit, but the stupid wheel tubs were in the way. So they got cut and boxed in with a piece of sheet metal.



Then base plates got welded to that. It was so much nicer welding to fresh 16ga. than welding the 12ga base plates to crappy old stock metal.



These are the sweet sleeves that I used so I could lower the a-pillar bars/halo and weld on the top. The sleeves are 2"x0.120 wall DOM tubing and fit very nicely around the 1.75x0.095 roll cage tubing.



Halo as far up as possible. I even cut a little of the stock metal on the inside out so it could go up a little more.



And I did a little stitch welding in the front.

I'll post the finished pics hopefully tomorrow night. But the rest of what I have uploaded is here:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineeri...ipwork/davefc/

Tim

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derek king

here is a bottom mount i welded up at the neukin shop the other day for a buddies car. its a bottom mount sr manifold

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bungl3

the gaps arent being filled, that will be just where its tacked in place, he'll close it all up when welding it at least i hope so other wise it wont fit haha i was going to mig it all up myself with stainless wire but the lad offered to tig it for me at work so it hought why not it'll be infinately better than a mig.

its aimed at track, gonna be competing in time attack uk. should see full boost by 4k on it and 500 - 600 hp

full project thread here if anyones interested
http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=289427

its a huge green cotton one

this thread gives me so much inspiration but tooling for metal work is mega expensive in the uk....thats why we import everything off you guys lol!

lazierhobo

does anyone have any pictures of a dual rear caliper setup on a 240?
i just got in the last of my parts yesterday, so last night i threw the rear 5 lug on so i could get an idea how it all might fit together. originally i was planning on using rear evo brembos and 4 pot wilwood dynalites. with the wilwood being for the hydraulic ebrake.

now its looking like i might need to get a small 2 piston wilwood to replace the brembo due to space limitations. also under consideration is going to a larger rear rotor. right now ive got just a set of evo powerslot rear rotors. im running 17 inch wheels so there is a good amount of room to use a larger rotor to get the calipers further away from the hub.

just curious if other people had attempted something like this before, im having a hard time finding pictures of anything similar.

Xracer

What type/size and where do you guys get your tube/pipe for those stainless manifolds you guys are building. They are so sexy.

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IIIXziuR

I promise to step it up as soon as my MIG comes in Luke!
Even though I am gonna be at little boy weakling status.
Like I stated before, I really appreciate you and all the other guys that take pics of their work. I know its a pain in the ass to do but it really motivates me to try more and give it my all.

Luke, Bill Washburn and TIP Tim are the masters!
You guy are intimidating with you awesomeness.
Much Praise due.
Please keep the fotos coming everyone!

Brian W.

hey guys. i didnt think anyone else would be interested in this but someone reading this thread...


ive got a nice jump shear for sale....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110246750984

let me know if youre interested and i hope its ok to post that here.

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2ilvia

um im telling ^

hehehe

hey luke, your pm box is full, could you make some room please =)

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J ROK

rear bash bar


easy location for jacking up car



thanks for looking

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Wiisass

Just be careful when making a crash bar not to make the mounting too strong. Otherwise it goes from being that last energy absorbtion effort into the thing that transmit all the force into the weaker chassis. And then you have a crash bar that you can reuse on your next chassis.

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J ROK

In the rear, it still bolts in with the factory bolts, but in the front its stitched in, so I think it will break, only one way to find out.

The bars are roll cage metal, so im sure no matter almost any crash, ill be able to reuse them. who cares about S13 chassis anyways. lol sort of..............

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babowc

dag.
that's the harsh troof. lol
i can't drop grand+ on a tig welder right now
I'll go get some lessons @ a tech college

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driftstyre

Finished the intercooler mounting/undertray cage support. It weighs 7.5 lbs and uses the intercooler as a stressed member. The intercooler adds 20lbs and the oil cooler should add 9. I measured all dimensions to 1/8th inch, which I used to be very lax about on things in the past.
I'm going to work on the exhaust exit over the next week (which requires some plasma cutting of the drivers footwell) as well as the front/rear torsion bars. I need to work some late nights soon as time is really flying by.

EJ253

very impressive bill

i was curious how that would end up
but can you explain, why have stress on the IC? it seems like simply adding two more verticle tubes would take any stress off the IC without much added weight

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driftstyre

The main reason being that I wanted to keep the exhaust side of the IC clear for ducting. I definitely thought of doing it that way. Also, its not really that stressed.

Wiisass

Bill, a stressed IC, I think that's the first time I've seen that. Have you thought about stressing the engine to any extent? Or how much you could tie it in and if it could handle it.

Anyway, I got that FC all done, so here's the pics.

























and the rest:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineeri...ipwork/davefc/

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driftstyre

Lookin good Tim What's that bike/motorcycle frame in the background?

GSXRJJordan

I love those style door bars (if they'll fit around whatever bucket seat you've got)... what do you call those?

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blu808

Looking great!!!


Jordan. those are called offset X doorbars.

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Wiisass

Thanks Bill. The bike frames in the back are both late 70's/early 80's Suzuki GS450's. It's a cafe bike project that a friend and I have started and were working on, but cars and other stuff got in the way. We took the bikes apart at his house and I just have the frames there so make rear set mounts and weld some other tabs on.

I guess since it's fab work, here's a pic of one of the rear set mounts:


The rest of the pics of that project are here:
http://www.theoryinpracticeengineeri...ikes/rearsets/

Jordan, it's hard to see in some of those pics, but the door bars are bent outward towards the door to give extra room for the seat. I think there's about 3" between the edge of the seat and the edge of the door bars.

And I'm not exactly sure what the technical term is, but I like to call them awesome door bars. Which are similar to sweet door bars. And the complete opposite of elbow killer door bars.

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blu808

Awesome door bars works.

haha.

Lets get drunk and play with the plasma cutter.

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theslows13

you guys have some phenomenal fab skills. i am in awe. may i ask, where do you guys get your training to do all this? trade schools/vo-tech? colleges? on-site training. Luke, your shit is so crazy, I honestly want to know how/where I can learn how to do the vast array of fabrications that you do. I do car audio wiring/minor fab/etc for a living right now but am looking to step up to something more in your field, baller-ass fabbing.

Hit me up with a response here on a PM please.

Keep up the hot shit guys! Im addicted to this thread now... just read all 19 pages straight thru for the first time. Sick sick sick...