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Old 10-20-2012, 02:31 PM   #2761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsTanCeZ View Post
What do you guys think of this setup?

S14 SR20det
Garret GT2871r 52T .64 A/R @20 psi with HKS actuator
NGK #8 iridium plugs
Tomei Exhaust Manifold and elbow
Isis Downpipe, test pipe, and 3" straight pipe
Greddy Intercooler and Oil Cooler
Tomei 740cc Injectors and Fuel Pressure Regulator
Z32 maf
Tomei 1.5mm head gasket, head studs, rocker arm stopper
Tomei 260/260 12mm cams, type A valve springs, valve guides, retainers, stock intake cam gear (to keep NVCS) and Tomei exhaust cam gear
new oem rocker arms
Greddy Intake Manifold and 70mm N15 throttle body
Stock internals (maybe new piston rings and bearings)
other supporting mods etc, etc..
Enthalpy ROM or Apexi PFC (Which would be better?)

What numbers do you think I could expect with this? Would this be a good setup?
Thanks.
have fun with that internal wastegate and trying to hold that pressure...you should really get an external wastegate setup

codyace makes a sweet setup that uses the stock manifold and you can bolt up/v clamp a 38mm tial too.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:00 PM   #2762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsil80wis View Post
have fun with that internal wastegate and trying to hold that pressure...you should really get an external wastegate setup

codyace makes a sweet setup that uses the stock manifold and you can bolt up/v clamp a 38mm tial too.
If that's true then the Tomei M7960 or Trust T518z turbos must be better because they can easily hold up to 23 psi and they're internally gated. Does anyone know if aftermarket stiffer valve springs make the VCT more likely to fail?
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:42 PM   #2763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsil80wis View Post
have fun with that internal wastegate and trying to hold that pressure...you should really get an external wastegate setup

codyace makes a sweet setup that uses the stock manifold and you can bolt up/v clamp a 38mm tial too.
Why not just get a boost control solenoid and set it hold the desired pressure? I'm currently running internal gate on an .64 A/R with an hks actuator and BCS on 18.5psi with 0 problems.
Maybe I'm missing something here, so correct my newbness if I'm wrong.

Also, the hks actuator held til 15psi without the BCS.
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Old 10-20-2012, 11:35 PM   #2764
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Some have success on internal gate and some have problems right away. The majority of people using internal all seem to have issues eventually. Getting them to hold doesn't seem to be the problem, it's boost spikes and inconsistency high in the rpm range.

It's been mentioned several times in this thread. It's just more reliable to go external and never have a problem holding consistent boost, ever. If you don't have the extra money to go external, obviously you will stay internal and do the best you can.
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:00 AM   #2765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle View Post
Some have success on internal gate and some have problems right away. The majority of people using internal all seem to have issues eventually. Getting them to hold doesn't seem to be the problem, it's boost spikes and inconsistency high in the rpm range.

It's been mentioned several times in this thread. It's just more reliable to go external and never have a problem holding consistent boost, ever. If you don't have the extra money to go external, obviously you will stay internal and do the best you can.
Well I guess only time will tell in my case. If it ain't broke I won't fix it. Haha.

I am running aem ems, would that aid in maintaining consistent boost through some kind of auto correction?
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:41 AM   #2766
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I've been searching on here and on youtube for this. Are they any videos of the GT2871r's boost response between shifts. Basically, I'm looking for a video that shows a acceleration run requiring a few shifts where I can see the boost gauge. Just wondering how quick it is at recovering boost compared to that of a gt2560 or gt2860rs (what I have now).

If it's not too bad, I might upgrade the compressor wheel. I have found a few places that sell a billet wheel for it. The good thing about it being billet is, the hub is smaller (hence lighter), the blades are longer (more flow) and thinner.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:43 PM   #2767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StepN2Boost View Post
Well I guess only time will tell in my case. If it ain't broke I won't fix it. Haha.

I am running aem ems, would that aid in maintaining consistent boost through some kind of auto correction?
Not unless you get a electric wastegate actuator. Solenoid on a vac actuator won't be able to respond fast enough to the changes in boost to change the dwell. Why people go nuts messing with their gain settings on EBCs.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:57 PM   #2768
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Somebody on here needs to buy my brand new Garrett 2871 for half price...
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:57 PM   #2769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Not unless you get a electric wastegate actuator. Solenoid on a vac actuator won't be able to respond fast enough to the changes in boost to change the dwell. Why people go nuts messing with their gain settings on EBCs.
Electronic wastegate actuator? I didn't even know they made those. Gotcha, thanks for informing a noob like me haha.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:42 AM   #2770
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Wow,, a new GT2871r for $550,, what's the catch?...lol
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:48 AM   #2771
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Lol there wasn't one. It sold about 30 minutes ago.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:10 AM   #2772
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Changing my setup slightly...... Im afraid of boost controll issues..

Det block cp 8.5 pistons eagle rods bearings
P11 vvl head. 20v cams supertec springs retainers
Gt2871r pure turbo modified 11blade gtx wheel ported t2 .64 iwg. Ceramic coated.
Greddy ls intercooler 3" pipe 3" exhaust hi flow cat.

How much if any do you see the head helping gains compared to a rr head.
Im looking to run some race fuel aquamist for the drag on a highboost map.

.64 and the t2 should cause some severe pressure ratio differences.

A .63 t3 housing is an option how much could i see from doing that? Seems like it would hold torque to the 8012 redline much better.

I dont see anything else i could do to make more power. Ill only do this once and im making sure its correct.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:47 AM   #2773
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Originally Posted by ForeignMuscle View Post
Lol there wasn't one. It sold about 30 minutes ago.
damn i would have driven to pick that up!!
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:26 AM   #2774
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I have a question about a 2871r I recently picked up. I googled the numbers on the center section, and everything came back as a 2871r. The turbo came off an 04 wrx, and has the exhaust side housing to match. Is there any reason I can't purchase the .64 t2 housing and use it on my SR? I also have a Subaru so if I can't it wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'd much rather have it on my SR
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:49 PM   #2775
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I had a tomei m86/72 turbo kit (similar to the gt2871) with tomei Mani,o2 housing, 740cc injectors bc stage two cams, z32 maf, on an enthalpy tune I made 412hp and 365lb-ft of torque on 20psi

Last edited by bluezenkis14; 11-13-2012 at 03:49 PM.. Reason: Psi
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:35 PM   #2776
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just blew my 2871 today... sounds like it has rocks in it. lol. not happy at all. thinking about what my next turbo is going to be now. dont know 100% if these are worth rebuilding or if mine is even rebuildable.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #2777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsTanCeZ View Post
If that's true then the Tomei M7960 or Trust T518z turbos must be better because they can easily hold up to 23 psi and they're internally gated. Does anyone know if aftermarket stiffer valve springs make the VCT more likely to fail?
What a turbo holds,and what it can control are very different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StepN2Boost View Post
Why not just get a boost control solenoid and set it hold the desired pressure? I'm currently running internal gate on an .64 A/R with an hks actuator and BCS on 18.5psi with 0 problems.
Maybe I'm missing something here, so correct my newbness if I'm wrong.

Also, the hks actuator held til 15psi without the BCS.

Zero issues now, but stand on it for a while, and you'll find that the diaphragm ends up wearing out and being junk. It may work tos tart but it won't last.

I ran internal gate. I used every aftermarket setup to control it. Nothing worked. External gate solved it all!

If you are interested in having external gate modification, shoot me a PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Not unless you get a electric wastegate actuator. Solenoid on a vac actuator won't be able to respond fast enough to the changes in boost to change the dwell. Why people go nuts messing with their gain settings on EBCs.
Gain settings are like prolonging pain. It can help the top end, at the huge expense of response.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
Changing my setup slightly...... Im afraid of boost controll issues..

Det block cp 8.5 pistons eagle rods bearings
P11 vvl head. 20v cams supertec springs retainers
Gt2871r pure turbo modified 11blade gtx wheel ported t2 .64 iwg. Ceramic coated.
Greddy ls intercooler 3" pipe 3" exhaust hi flow cat.

How much if any do you see the head helping gains compared to a rr head.
Im looking to run some race fuel aquamist for the drag on a highboost map.

.64 and the t2 should cause some severe pressure ratio differences.

A .63 t3 housing is an option how much could i see from doing that? Seems like it would hold torque to the 8012 redline much better.

I dont see anything else i could do to make more power. Ill only do this once and im making sure its correct.
I'd run the larger AR housing on the VVL and be happy. IF you need better control, PM me for a manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bussitcustoms View Post
I have a question about a 2871r I recently picked up. I googled the numbers on the center section, and everything came back as a 2871r. The turbo came off an 04 wrx, and has the exhaust side housing to match. Is there any reason I can't purchase the .64 t2 housing and use it on my SR? I also have a Subaru so if I can't it wouldn't be the end of the world, but I'd much rather have it on my SR

You can easily put a .64 housing on it without issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by AsleepAltima View Post
just blew my 2871 today... sounds like it has rocks in it. lol. not happy at all. thinking about what my next turbo is going to be now. dont know 100% if these are worth rebuilding or if mine is even rebuildable.
Mine is sitting here in the shelf staring at me. Cussing Turbo Altimas and collecting dust....
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:09 PM   #2778
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Thanks Codyace, youre the man!
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Old 11-16-2012, 06:08 AM   #2779
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Codyace, good to see your still around. What manifold btw?
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:26 AM   #2780
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Mine is sitting here in the shelf staring at me. Cussing Turbo Altimas and collecting dust....
haha, yeah im cussing turbo altimas too with my pretty little turbonetics making a nice paper weight in my storage room.
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Old 12-23-2012, 03:33 PM   #2781
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Relatively new here..

I'm gathering some info online, (including the forums) for my future sr20 or 1J setup.

I'd love to find a cheaper s14 with a stock SR, to build that.
If I can't, I'll just look for a s13 or s14 shell on CL and pick up a 1J motor from"Foreign Engines" in my area.

It'll be my daily driver for a bit 'till I can afford another car to replace it.
I want a reliable 400-500hp and I will have at least 10k to work with.
I will have the guys at the PSI shop building and tuning for me.

If I were to build an SR, this is what I have down so far..

GT2871r + Greddy intake manifold - $1600 (brand new from a friend)
Spec Stage 2 clutch - $350?
Power FC - $1400?
Nismo 740cc injectors - $800?
Greddy FMIC - ?
Tomei 256 PonCams - $350?

How's that look?^

I'm unsure as to what I would run with a 1J though.. (turbo, injectors, manifolds, intercooler, transmission etc.)
If someone could provide me with a parts list for a 1J, I'd appreciate that. I know the motor would be able to handle 400 on stock internals. Not sure about the SR though. They're both great engines.
Also, which one would be more reliable? Long term? Short term? Maintenance?
(I know it's not specific to this thread)

Any comments/suggestions are welcome! Thanks!

Last edited by Kouki_206; 12-23-2012 at 05:36 PM..
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Old 12-24-2012, 01:49 AM   #2782
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Intake mani is worthless
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:16 AM   #2783
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Unless you have a Tuner for that PowerFC. Get your stock ECU chipped.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:59 AM   #2784
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Why is it worthless?
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:47 AM   #2785
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Why is it worthless?
NO NO wrong question!
Why is it on my list? Is the right question!
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:59 AM   #2786
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My question stands.. lol
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:04 PM   #2787
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Kouki do not go Apexi PFC for management. There is SOOOO much better out there for the price. Like AEM V1 or V2 for instance. O
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:06 PM   #2788
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Intake mani is "worthless" because of its short runner design. It kills HP and TQ at the low/mid range. But makes up for it up top.

Long runners are better for overall gains. Ie-stock.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:15 PM   #2789
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Kouki do not go Apexi PFC for management. There is SOOOO much better out there for the price. Like AEM V1 or V2 for instance. O
Yeah? I'll keep that in mind, thanks man!

I'll be just fine with an FM then haha. Any good kits out there?
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:19 PM   #2790
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Go with hks 264 cams
Go with the intake.
We have done multiple gt2871 setups with this setup and hit 400 hp with a good power band and the intake helps up top.
We see lag problems when using BC 264s because early intake cams were built a good number of degrees retarded and needed a cam gear and setup to be properly timed. Once that was done they made good power.



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