Xicor01

Hey guys I am in the process of breaking down my engine for a rebuild. I am in the process of looking at everything that I need in order to meet my goals. Eventually I would like to reach 500 whp but I wouldn't mind stopping at 250 for a while. Basically I want to rebuild my bottom and top ends for 500+ whp and do everything else with tuning. I plan on planing, boring, honing and cleaning my block.

Right now I am rocking back and forth between boring it to 89.5 or 90mm the question there is, how would the dyno charts read, would the torque band level out or would it spike? I am also going to balance all of the rotating assembly and keeping the stock stroke so don't mention the BC stroke kit, I want to make a smooth high revving engine.

I know the Compression ration needs to be low for high boost turbo's or other forced induction applications. CP pistons i can only find for somewhere around 9:1 compression, for some reason I feel like that's high, I would really like to avoid issues because i bought the wrong compression pistons.

In regards to the crank, has anyone knife edged a crank? if so what was the seen difference? would it be better to buy the BC full weighted crank (with stock stroke, yes they make one) than keeping the stock crank? remember I want to lighten the rotating mass and allow for smooth upper limits.

In regards to the rods, i was going to go with eagle rods, but i think.. crower maybe, someone makes an "Ultralight" rod. How would that effect rev limit or torque dyno. Also i know that keeping it light will make it easier to balance the whole system but how much would going to an ultralight rod really change, i looked up the shipping weight and its the same (3lbs).

I am going cosmetec Head gasket, they have different thicknesses, just point of clarification, that is for individuals who have planed too much off the block/head right? or is there an actual benefit for a thicker metal headgasket?

moving on to the top end, I have read mixed reviews about stoptech, has anyone had any problem with their springs or valves?

I have read somewhere that it is actually more beneficial to have the shop doing your work assemble your bottom end as well, such that they can balance it as they assemble. I know that I can assemble it correctly I am just worried about tolerances and if the BC fully countered crank needs more room in the block. has anyone had the shop assemble it for them? If so how much extra did you end up spending and would you recommend it to someone else as well.

sorry for the wall of text, Thank you for any help you may be able to provide.