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10-20-2015, 09:42 PM | #62 |
Post Whore!
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guess I need to start one of the 10 I have lol
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10-25-2015, 05:31 AM | #64 |
Post Whore!
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is that the kei office s15 ?
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10-26-2015, 11:57 AM | #67 |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX Prefecture
Posts: 1,663
Trader Rating: (15)
Feedback Score: 15 reviews
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Just learning as I go....
URAS ER34 on VSKF's Rocket Bunny FRS/BRZ MCR Factory R34 GTR Mazdaspeed GTC Concept FD3S Wangan / Top End style NSX Top Secret S15
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10-26-2015, 12:00 PM | #68 |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX Prefecture
Posts: 1,663
Trader Rating: (15)
Feedback Score: 15 reviews
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Kouki S14 with upgraded brakes, R34 GTR wheels, Exhaust & Rear diffuser and front mount intercooler
KPGC110 Skyline R Tune R34 GTR
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10-26-2015, 12:11 PM | #69 |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX Prefecture
Posts: 1,663
Trader Rating: (15)
Feedback Score: 15 reviews
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Vertex FD3S
RASTY S13 Veilside MKIV Supra FC3S on Model 5's S30Z Vertex S15 on TE37's. TRD N2 Levin Corolla Did a custom livery on it. Top Secret R34 GTR Kunnyz JZX100 HKS Kansai Service R32 GTR
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10-27-2015, 12:39 PM | #71 | |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: TX Prefecture
Posts: 1,663
Trader Rating: (15)
Feedback Score: 15 reviews
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Quote:
For clear parts, I usually outline the edges of headlight/tail light lenses in black to make them look a little cleaner, then use Elmers since it dries clear, or dab the edges in cement very lightly. Definitely open to whatever advice you may have. I also have the Kei Office S15, Weld JZX100, Kunnys JZX100, Blitz ER34, HKS S15, Greddy FD3S and Team Samurai FC3S, from the D1GP series, but I don't have the pictures uploaded yet.
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10-27-2015, 01:06 PM | #72 |
Post Whore!
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you have all the kits I haven't built yet , just started my type x kit
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10-29-2015, 03:51 PM | #73 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: VA/Madrid
Age: 32
Posts: 390
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Quote:
how do you lay your primer down? Are you thinning your paints when using the air brush? Have you tried wet sanding after spraying the color coat? You can wet sand using very high grit (like 3500) to bring it to a smooth surface even before spraying clear. It will make it pop up more under clear coat. Once you spray the clear you can wetsand (again) and polish to a very nice surface. Id HIGHLY suggest using the 10 mL bottle of tamiya X-22 clear for clear parts. Not much risk of damaging clear parts and also it cleans up rather easy. I also do the "weather strip" to the lights, turns out more realistic. You should also mask and tape off the widnow trim. Tape the area off and with a sharp knife cut around the trim. Just becarefull if its a new blade not to go too deep and scar the plastic. When done right it looks 10000X better when sprayed with semi gloss black, X-18. I just started the Blitz R34 and since the decals are 10 years old they completely got deteroriated when in warm water If you ever find any D1 kits, let me know!!! |
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10-29-2015, 03:54 PM | #74 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: VA/Madrid
Age: 32
Posts: 390
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Also, addding panel lines adds more realism to the models. There are various methods of doing them. The way I do them is using a 0.05 MM marker. Very easy and very clean.
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10-30-2015, 03:58 PM | #76 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I dont like doing panel lines on my models or RC bodies, but sometimes depending on the color, they do need it. I wonder what a model car would look like if you do the panels the same way you would for military airplanes, spraying black around all lines before applying the primer and paint.
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11-03-2015, 02:45 PM | #77 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: VA/Madrid
Age: 32
Posts: 390
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Body lines add more realism to the model IMO. Some people do over kill it though. Only parts Id do would be the doors, bumpers, fenders, trunk, sideskirts. I try to do them as lights as possible as well.
Ive never tried the body lines prior to primer. Doesnt seem like a bad idea but maybe more work to clean up though?? |
11-07-2015, 12:23 AM | #78 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
Dont Be Lazy and do it lol
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01-15-2016, 04:09 PM | #81 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: VA/Madrid
Age: 32
Posts: 390
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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It all depends on the model. For example, on the Aoshima S-Chassis, I remove the working spring and cut the top of the bump stop so the strut can travel further up. It all depends on how the model is built. You can play with the suspesnion and have great results. Did you get the LXZs from Ebay?
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01-18-2016, 07:12 PM | #83 |
Post Whore!
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Late Night Crew #1 |
07-03-2016, 10:36 PM | #84 |
Post Whore!
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What brand marker
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07-10-2016, 02:11 AM | #85 |
Zilvia Junkie
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01-30-2019, 08:46 AM | #87 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Rochester NY
Age: 41
Posts: 1,331
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
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All your projects look really good. Ever do any UCF10/11? I thought I eyeballed a 20 once upon a time.
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01-30-2019, 04:05 PM | #88 | |
not giving a fuck
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Los angeles
Age: 35
Posts: 15,080
Trader Rating: (104)
Feedback Score: 104 reviews
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Quote:
i actually still have a Blitz Er34 i havent built... apperantly its worth good money now too
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LOL 240... whats better than 1? 5 1's ...lol PSN & XBL GT : Wh0pp3r68 CLUB LEXUS : Wh0pp3r |
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01-31-2019, 12:24 PM | #89 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Quote:
I have done some VIP and have this one pictured in the works; however, things have been hectic for me and the hobby has been taking a back seat. I believe i was in Los Ángeles when i first posted and since have bounced from Texas to now Georgia. In the process of moving to my own apartment. Budget and life dont have space for this hobby so progess is very slow. By the way, i have kits im trying to unload if anyone is interested. Ive priced them low but the dang post office charging almost $10 for one kit shipped. Also been out of the R/C drift scene so im going to unload that stuff too and start living an old man life lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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