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Old 09-21-2010, 03:52 AM   #3091
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Here are some shots of a C6 Zo6 exhaust I started making tonight.





I actually put all the straight sections in the lathe and turn down each end till it is perfectly beveled and even. Makes for some incredible welding.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:48 PM   #3092
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Started making an H pipe. Notching the tubing on the Milling machine is the way to go.

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Old 09-29-2010, 01:39 AM   #3093
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not my welds, but on my valve cover.

the fittings that turned brown had a hard anodizing on them I only had one -8 weld on fitting, the rest were stupid -8 - 3/8th npt fittings that baker performance had in stock, second time I went there they didn't have shit I wanted. I'll stick with anplumbing in the future.
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:40 AM   #3094
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Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post

the fittings that turned brown had a hard anodizing on them I only had one -8 weld on fitting, the rest were stupid -8 - 3/8th npt fittings that baker performance had in stock, second time I went there they didn't have shit I wanted. I'll stick with anplumbing in the future.
I get all of my AN stuff from Summit and/or Jegs. Between the two, they always have the Earls fittings I need in stock.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:50 PM   #3095
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Yeah it's rare I ever DRIVE to pick these things up, I just wanted to get everything I needed to my fab dude since -10 is what I originally was going to put on the back of the hump but that's too big a hose for the drainback into the block.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:57 PM   #3096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broadfield View Post
I get all of my AN stuff from Summit and/or Jegs. Between the two, they always have the Earls fittings I need in stock.
Earl's store 1 in Hawthorne (been there for almost 40 years) will beat Summit/Jegs, and Tom is an awesome dude. I almost always go through him.
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Old 09-29-2010, 04:57 PM   #3097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
Yeah it's rare I ever DRIVE to pick these things up, I just wanted to get everything I needed to my fab dude since -10 is what I originally was going to put on the back of the hump but that's too big a hose for the drainback into the block.
I don't know, I used -10 on all of mine!?! Are you talking about the fitting on the rear drivers side of the block right under the head?
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Old 09-29-2010, 05:23 PM   #3098
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I don't know, I used -10 on all of mine!?! Are you talking about the fitting on the rear drivers side of the block right under the head?
Yee! that's the one. a -8 (1/2) hose fits it perfectly, -10 (5/8) is probably slightly too big but then again I have an s13 motor, I don't know if the drainback from the valve cover on an s14 motor is larger.



temporary valve cover until my hybrid cover is painted and I get some of those sweet bolts like yours. =)
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:41 PM   #3099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Earl's store 1 in Hawthorne (been there for almost 40 years) will beat Summit/Jegs, and Tom is an awesome dude. I almost always go through him.
I was in a bind a while ago and needed a PS line replacement ASAP
he ended up charging me more than what was advertised on Earl's site
would have rather bought the line or parts online had I had the option

been there a few times and it's always been that way
just a bit more than online
but *shrug* sometimes you just can't wait
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:20 PM   #3100
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quick question to you guys on here, im making a seat bracket and need to bend form 1x1/4 steel, whats the best way to do it other than a press? ive seen people put it in a vise and heat it but idk how safe that is?
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:40 PM   #3101
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Quote:
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quick question to you guys on here, im making a seat bracket and need to bend form 1x1/4 steel, whats the best way to do it other than a press? ive seen people put it in a vise and heat it but idk how safe that is?
If you have an oxy-actelyene setup than you can do it easily. Just heat it up and let it get orange and you should be able to bend it with some pliers and just a little bit of man power.

If you're concerned about the integrity of the steel from being bent and heated, just reheat it till its orange again and quench it in water.

But it's safe, you shouldn't have any issues.
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:08 PM   #3102
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Quote:
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If you have an oxy-actelyene setup than you can do it easily. Just heat it up and let it get orange and you should be able to bend it with some pliers and just a little bit of man power.

If you're concerned about the integrity of the steel from being bent and heated, just reheat it till its orange again and quench it in water.

But it's safe, you shouldn't have any issues.
Agree. Plenty safe.

My question is why mess with 1/4" steel? ~1/8" is what Wedge uses for their brackets, and what I've always used. You trying to make a 20lb seat bracket or what?
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:11 PM   #3103
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^^^^ lol Factor of Safety yo!! of like 100!! He's right though, 1/4" is freakin beastly, and mad overkill.
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:15 PM   #3104
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Wish, I had your skills.
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:46 PM   #3105
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Agree. Plenty safe.

My question is why mess with 1/4" steel? ~1/8" is what Wedge uses for their brackets, and what I've always used. You trying to make a 20lb seat bracket or what?

i have wedge brackets on there right now, but they sit way too high, i took a micrometer to them and it was 3/16s, so i figured its like wood, were the actual measurement is a bit smaller like a 2x4 is actually 1 7/8 x 3 7/8, im new to metal

thanks for the info guys ill look in to a torch and some 1/8 steel,
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:57 PM   #3106
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Luke you've nailed it on the head, there needs to be more informative posts on zilvia, and this is a step in the right direction.

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love this thread idea..this is coming from someone who will be getting into fab very soon.

might i add that perhaps some details on what techniques were used to fab. ie, what equipment was used to bend tubing, what was used for mockups, what type of welding, what equipment was used for welding, etc..

just a though for us fab wannabes.

+1 for unique thread idea.

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Old 10-12-2010, 06:37 PM   #3107
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few random shots from work lately





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Old 10-12-2010, 06:59 PM   #3108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManoNegra View Post
I was in a bind a while ago and needed a PS line replacement ASAP
he ended up charging me more than what was advertised on Earl's site
would have rather bought the line or parts online had I had the option

been there a few times and it's always been that way
just a bit more than online
but *shrug* sometimes you just can't wait
Get and bend soft steel for the hardlines.
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Old 10-13-2010, 01:57 AM   #3109
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few random shots from work lately






On the mig weld what process do u do to get a weld like that?
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:07 AM   #3110
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Is that MIG'd? Looks TIG'd. If it's TIG'd how many amps did you run for that?
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:17 AM   #3111
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Wow. Nice welds. def TIG.

Here are some custom Blu808 control arms I made today.





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Old 10-13-2010, 08:35 AM   #3112
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We finished the plug for the miata roof wing


And also built the mold.


Upper Half

Lower Half


We are going to start popping wings out this week!!

I also put together a little blog for our projects.
ChaserGarage.com | Custom work and Fabrication at Chaser Aerodynamics, LLC.

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Old 10-13-2010, 02:23 PM   #3113
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cage i just knocked out in a week and a half for my car. 1.5 x .095 DOM tubing, built per the 2010 FD rulebook





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Old 10-13-2010, 10:06 PM   #3114
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Nice cage.

Also, totally didn't make the connection about Chaser being local to MD till I saw the newish 1812 anniversary tag on the miata. Roof spoiler thing looks good.
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:26 PM   #3115
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Is that MIG'd? Looks TIG'd. If it's TIG'd how many amps did you run for that?

the mild steel drill bit is mig. welding with flux core @ 350 amps. weaving the weld for that look. the aluminum is tig @ 300 amps, pre heated material to 350 degrees.

also got bored and made a bash bar for my car. gonna add some 45 angles on the ends to extend to the fenders tomorrow.


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Old 10-20-2010, 11:44 PM   #3116
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:24 PM   #3117
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cage i just knocked out in a week and a half for my car. 1.5 x .095 DOM tubing, built per the 2010 FD rulebook







Sorry, but that cage isn't built to FD specs, the rear bars have to tie into the rear frame, no more strut tower connections for the rear bars. Found that out at Irwindale........
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:10 PM   #3118
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Who told you that? My roll cage goes to the rear towers and passed tech at Irwindale.
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:20 PM   #3119
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Sorry, but that cage isn't built to FD specs, the rear bars have to tie into the rear frame, no more strut tower connections for the rear bars. Found that out at Irwindale........
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Who told you that? My roll cage goes to the rear towers and passed tech at Irwindale.
I'm with Blu808 on this one, I know three local guys (Miro and the Tuerck brothers) that went out to Pro-Am and their cages are tied to the rear strut towers.

Here's a shot of Miro's car, he placed 3rd in Pro-Am I believe.

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Old 10-22-2010, 10:45 AM   #3120
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he might just be confused.
they can tie into the strut tower,...not the strut tower bar
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