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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 01-16-2013, 06:33 AM   #1
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s13 Bee*R S13 Issue

My first post on the forum! Because I'm in need of help!

I have an S13 Silvia with an SR20DET engine.
I installed a Bee*R 2-Step limiter yesterday, but it doesn't want to work correctly. I soldered all the connections. I'm 90% sure I have the wiring correct.

I followed the guide here: Bee R Rev limiter install *Guide*
I know it's not for my exact car, but my ECU has the 16p 14p 16p 18p pin out the same as his.
Plus, in the instructions included with the Bee*R, it listed the same pin connections for my Engine.

It revs to the set limit (2500) and engages as it should, but the revs only cut and bounce as they should for about half a second.
After which they completely drop, almost as if the engine has stalled, then cut back in briefly and raise back to 2500RPM, before completely cutting out again and this repeats endlessly.

The light on the Bee*R blinks when it's cutting the RPM's, as it should, but stays on when the revs drop, which I thought was really odd.
It's as if the Bee*R cuts the revs well, then 'freezes' causing the revs to drop, then kicks back in briefly before 'freezing' again.

I've uploaded a few video's of the issue to help try and get it resolved.
The video's
Feel free to share the video's to co-workers or whoever might be able to help.
In one of the video's there is a brief period that sounds like the Bee*R is working correctly, but it doesn't even last half a second.
I do not lift my foot off the throttle at all until the very end of the video's!
Pardon my language too in the final video lol it let out a whopper of a backfire and startled me!
If it helps, when it backfired, it let out a LOT of black smoke smelling of fuel.
So maybe the Bee*R is somewhat flooding the engine? I'm not sure exactly how they work, so hopefully someone can help

Bee*R S13 Issue - YouTube
Bee*R S13 Issue 2 - YouTube
Bee*R S13 Issue 3 - YouTube
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:08 AM   #2
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raise the limiter to 4500rpm make a video of you not letting off at all, i know you said you're not letting of but you are. And it will make a backfire noise that's how I know your letting off. Your supposed to be at full throttle and the Limiter keeps the revs locked at the set rpm (needle will bounce but wont rev higher), then you release the clutch or hand brake (lame honda way) slipping the clutch to control wheel spin if you have any.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:13 AM   #3
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I tired different RPM settings and gain settings but nothing made any difference.
I guarantee I wasn't taking my foot off the throttle until the end of the video's.
In video number 3, you can hear when I take my foot off the throttle when the turbo flutters before the backfire.
I'll make another video of 4500 RPM though for you tomorrow
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:33 PM   #4
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I've cut the grey wire, telling the Bee*R that I have 4 cylinders.
I'm fairly sure the wires are in the correct position, someone can hopefully tell from this photo:
http://i49.tinypic.com/nfjz7m.jpg
I have added coloured circles indicating what colour wire on the Bee*R each is connected to, because it's tough to tell from the photo.
The red and black circles should be swapped, my mistake. The wires are correct, I just put the wrong coloured circle.

Swapping the green and yellow wires causes the car not to start at all.
My engine isn't modified in any way that would effect ignition.

Should the Bee*R be spliced onto CAS 1 degree, and CAS 180 degree signal wires?
Or should it be RPM signal, and Ignition signal wires?
I've found various installation guides, some say CAS signal, some say RPM and ignition signals.
Also, should the Bee*R be spliced in, or should the wires be cut and re-routed completely into the Bee*R?
I tired both splicing and re-routing, neither made a difference.

I'm waiting for a mate to come over, I'll have him film me, while I'm in the car filming the Bee*R set to 4500RPM, to show that my foot isn't being lifted off
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:27 AM   #5
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Here is another angle, to show my foot not being lifted off the throttle.
The RPM limit is set to 4500RPM, and the gain at 1.

Bee*R S13 Issue - Alternate Angle - YouTube

At times it sounds like it wants to work, but it simply won't!
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #6
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I can see slight movement from your foot, but that's ok try adjusting the gain.
It seems like it's working, what's it not doing?
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:39 PM   #7
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I put my foot flat to the floor at first in that last video, then lifted off slightly to about 3/4 throttle.
It revs up and wants to bounce at the set limit, but then it's as if the engine stalls or something, and the revs drop, not just on the tacho, but you can tell by the sound too.
Maybe when it hits the set limit, it's temporarily fouling the spark plugs with too much fuel, causing the engine to not cut back on quickly like it should, but rather just drop rpm.
I'm not really sure how to explain it better than the video's show it.
But I guarantee, I'm not lifting my foot off the throttle lol

Changing the gain only changes the amount of time the engine 'stalls' for.
Like, it'll rev up to the set limit, bounce there briefly (as it should) then drop rpm for longer than when the gain is set to a lower amount.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:44 PM   #8
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It's an ignition cut, not a stall. change the gain or whatever adjustment you have to make the cuts faster or slower try that. Make the cuts faster.

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Old 01-20-2013, 04:07 AM   #9
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I know how the bee*r's work lol I've seen them work first hand on friends car's.
I'm thinking the Bee*r I have must be faulty, I can't think of any other explanation!
I'll try and borrow a mates Bee*R to check. But first I'll attempt to wire it up the 'subaru' way: Subaru Bee*r Rev Limiter Diy - Rexnet Subaru Forums
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Old 02-03-2015, 11:57 AM   #10
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Same problem

Did you get it to work? I have the exact problem...
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:03 PM   #11
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He was probably using a fake unit...
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:05 PM   #12
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How can you tell if its fake? Because the one i got doesent seem to work properly
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:43 PM   #13
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Post up a picture of the bottom, top and front of the unit and i'll let you know if it is and why.
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:14 PM   #14
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image.jpg

There is one i think
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:22 PM   #15
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http://aijaa.com/Uu5f7C
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Old 02-03-2015, 02:51 PM   #16
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Attachment 80867

There is one i think
The picture worked, but it is hard to tell from that one alone. A picture of the top and bottom are the easeist way to tell.
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Old 02-03-2015, 03:17 PM   #17
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Did ylu get the link to open? Aijaa.com somethingsomething
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:24 PM   #18
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I have difficulties uploading pics atm so i will upload them all later
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Old 02-03-2015, 03:51 PM   #19
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Yeah i think my bee*r is fake...
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Old 02-03-2015, 04:26 PM   #20
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You can compare your model to the ones in this thread to determine if yours could be a possible fake.

http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/1...-w-photos.html
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:34 PM   #21
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yeah its fake :/ in your pic i can see where the numbers are behind the dials are blue..every real bee r I've seen are black not blue
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