koolcat

I followed the diagram above but kind of lost. Don't flame me this is my first time doing this thing so can someone help me, can't seem to figure this out. This is wiring for e5 to j4 ecu, since you have to move pin #9 to #25 where does pin #25 go to? Also what is going into pin 102, 104, 111 and 115 from the image below? I want to have a/c so do i move #106 to #11, because in the direction the last step is from #10 to #11, but i don't have pin #10(green/yellow). My green/yellow is at 106 and it is bigger then the smaller #11 pin which i can't plug in. Please help out.



thanks
phu

SoSideways

Well, it's a bit early for me right now, so I'm gonna take a stab at it... if I remember to come back to this thread later when I'm more awake, I might try it again...

But from what I can understand right this second, pin #25 on the J4 is the #4 coilpack driver, so what do you mean where does #25 go?

If you mean #25 on the old harness, that's not needed, because the USDM 240s never got an exhaust temp sensor. It was used to make sure that the cat isn't clogged and overheats, which the JDM cars got, and the USDM cars didn't have that, so you can just pull the old wires and sensor out if they're still attached to the harness.

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koolcat

Ok so the old pin 25 which is one of the wire in the stock sr white dash connector is not needed?

Also can you tell me about the other pin i asked in the first post? Especially the pin 10 in first diagram (green/yellow), i don't have it there. The only green/yellow pin is at pin 106 and it is a bigger gauge wire which i can't depin and put into pin 11 as the diagram has it.

koolcat

Also can you answer this question as well. I have a j4 ecu and no kouki harness, as of right now i really don't know if my motor is a kouki s13 sr or not. If you know how to tell the kouki s13 sr motor from the others lmk. Will a non kouki work with j4 ecu with harness repin?

thanks
phu

SoSideways

Unless the sensors are completely different, or have completely different amount of sensors, I don't see how the kouki motor would be different than the 94-96 black tops, which is what I have.

My original harness was a J4 harness, but I didn't mess with it at the time. Someone else did, and IIRC he said he only moved the 4 pins for the coil pack wires, but did not move anything else (maybe O2, but I don't remember).

Again, it's a bit too early for me to be using my cognitive and reasoning part of my brain yet, so I'll try to get to it later on today when I'm fully awake and can use those parts of my brain.

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SHIFT_*grind*

The kouki motor is almost the same. I believe the O2 sensor is slightly different, but there's a long-standing debate over whether running a fatty sensor instead of a skinny sensor (and vice versa) really makes a difference at all. At the very worst, you may see a slight decrease in fuel mileage from using a fatty sensor where you should be using a skinny (or vice versa). Either way, the car will run fine. Also, as I mentioned in the other thread, the fuel maps are slightly different than a standard 62/E5 ECU.

Before I owned it, my car had a redtop motor and harness. Redtop motor blew, so the previous owner swapped it out with a kouki S13 blacktop. Used the redtop harness and #62 redtop ECU, just swapped in the kouki longblock. Everything runs exactly as it should.

Well, right now it doesn't, but it would if my MAF hadn't gone bad.

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SoSideways

Well, the fat O2 sensor is required for the E5/J4 to work correctly, and the 62 ECU needs the skinny one to work correctly.

There have been many threads discussing the why's of the 2 different O2 sensors all over the internet if you want to read about it.

In either case, as long as the harness is able to direct the signals from the ECU to the appropriate sensors or electronic components, everything should work, whether it's a 62 ECU running on an E5 harness on a kouki block or what have you.

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koolcat

Guys thanks for the other info but now my problem is this:

and what about pin 102,104,111, and 115, if you look at diagram 2 in the first post those pins have a color to it but don't know from what. Or Should i just leave those alone?

thanks

SoSideways

Well, have you actually read what those wires are?

#102 EAI AIV control solenoid output
#104 Fuel pump relay
#111 Turbo boost control solenoid
#115 Blank

Just match those wires up to where they need to be on the J4 ECU's blue plug and you're good to go.

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koolcat

Cool, how bout the old pin 25 where does it go since you have to remove it for pin 9. Also, i don't have a pin 10 for a/c relay but there a ac on output at pin 106, is it the same? And it is a bigger pin than pin 11 position so it won't go in the spot so do i have to cut another pin head and spice it with that wire?

koolcat

No what i mean is if you look at the j4 side what are those suppose to be from the redtop harness? Cause if you look at 102 and 106 of the j4 side those are both orange/black and there is only one o/b

SoSideways

If you are unsure, then bust out your multimeter and check for continuity in the wire.

If you think that pin #106 on the J4 harness (the orange/black wire) is the A/C output just like it was for the 62 ECU, just with different colors, then the easiest way to test it is to test for continuity of the $106 pin to the A/C on wire on the grey/brown plug up there by the battery.

I don't quite remember where it is on the plug, but you'll need to match it to the chassis side of the harness, so just find it on the chassis side (it'll be a blue/green wire) and match it to the engine side harness, then put 1 side of the probe from the multimeter on it, and put the other probe on pin #106, then check for continuity.

If there's no continuity, then pin #106 is not the A/C on signal wire.

If there is continuity, then pin #106 is the A/C on signal wire.

Between the 2 diagrams, I'm pretty sure if you just look at the two, a lot of the functions of the wires are the same, they're just different colors. In that case, just work with it, don't worry so much about the colors, because underneath, they're all just strands copper.

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koolcat

If the said don't worry about colors then how should i know which wire it is if you look on the second diagram for instance, the pin 9,11,115, etc i would know what to put there since it has no description and you said don't worry bout colors? Sorry not trying to be an ass but it is confusing.

SoSideways

Nissan changed the colors of their wires over the years, even on the same type of harness.

Prime example, the E5 ECU's harness actually has a few different color wires as the 62 ECU's, but they do the same thing.

IIRC, the O2 signal wire is like, brown or something on either the 62 or E5 harness, and it's different on the other.

All I'm saying is, you really just had to switch over the 4 coilpack driving wires, and then maybe check the O2 sensor wires.

From what I can tell, the 2 harnesses are pretty much the same.

As for all the wires that you're FREAKING OUT ABOUT, again, look at the 62/E5 pin out, compare it to the J4 pin out, then tell me if you're missing anything important.

If you're missing something important, then look at the 62/E5 pinout, and try to use the multimeter to check for continuity at the engine side of the harness, and find out if those wires changed at all for the J4 harness, ie. the A/C on signal wire.

Seriously, you're looking too deeply into this.

Take a step back, and ask yourself, "is the AIV related wires needed?", or "are the EGR related wires needed?"

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Slow Poke

Just to add... The sensors are not all the same on the Kouki S13 SR 97-98 type X and the Chuki 94-96 SR.

I know the temp sensor for the gauge cluster is not the same and I know the 02 sensors are not the same. I have a feeling any other sensors on the 97-98 SR are shared with the S14 SR20 rather then the S13 redtop SR20's (like the early blacktops)... I have not done a ton of comparison to know all of them though.

koolcat

Yea i think i am freaking out lol, let me just try it and ill update if i need some more help, thanks for all the info

koolcat

Well i just finished moving everything. All i did was follow the steps at the bottom of the first diagram except for the last step. Then i took pin 106 and spliced it with a smaller pin and move that to 11. So now im done. Do i need to move any other wire? lmk thanks you guys especially sosideways helped me a lot. HOw do you give reps so i can give yall some. Also, if i want to hook up the consult wire in the dash harness which wire is it?

SoSideways

From that bottom diagram, pin #15, a green wire, on both the 62/E5 ECU and J4 ECU, are the same wire, and that's the signal wire to the Consult.

Match that to the dash plug.

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koolcat

thanks man ill give this a try in the next couple of days.