bmaddock

This guide details a 1JZ-GTE VVTI swap into a 1993 Nissan 240SX (S13). I hope this thread inspires Zilvia members to do something similar and enjoy the experience. I chose 1JZ over 2JZ because they’re generally cheaper. I chose VVTI because I plan on keeping it relatively stock and the powerband is awesome. Full 280 ft-lb of torque at 2400RPM, half of which it takes for a non-VVTI. It also has higher compression, better cooling, factory single turbo, vtec yo, etc. If big power numbers are your goal, look at non-VVTI because they’re MAP based and will allow you to more easily add a larger single turbo on and make decent power even on stock tune.

Let’s also get price out of the way before we start. Average 1JZ VVTI + R154 costs around $3200 from what I’ve found, where most of the cost is from the R154. Without any discounts, deals, labor, fluids or shipping+tax, my whole swap cost around $7000 for a stock 1JZ VVTI with fresh gaskets, upgraded clutch/flywheel, prepared harness and quality parts. I cut very little corners in terms of quality parts so there’s definitely some room to cut it down but don’t expect this to cost what a basic SR swap does. At the bottom I’ll post my detailed parts list.


Research:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...de-For-Dummies
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...-to-with-pics*
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...ump-comparison
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/hy...-2jz-swap.html
http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/15...0-timing-belt/
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...-vvti-maf.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_JZ_engine
http://www.jdmenginesusa.com/

1JZ-GTE VVTI
R154 Transmission
KA aluminum radiator
Electric fans
Engine Refresh:

Cam seals
Valve Covers
VVTI cam gear rebuild
2JZ waterpump
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner and idler
Front and rear main seals
Thermostat
PCV
Spark plugs
Radiator hoses

Drivetrain Refresh:

Front and rear trans seals
Slave cylinder
Throwout bearing
OEM pressure plate bolts
ARP flywheel bolts

Engine Mount Kit
Custom Driveshaft
Custom Wiring Harness
Upgraded Clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Extended Fuel lines

Common obstacles: fuel lines, shifter placement, heater lines, exhaust routing, cooling, sway bar interference and transmission choice.

Step 1: Remove the factory KA engine.

There are quite a few tutorials explaining this. I won’t go into horrendous details but start by de-pressurizing the fuel rail.
Then drain oil, coolant, power steering and trans fluid.
Disconnect exhaust at the turbo (KA-T) or manifold (NA), remove fuel line attachments, disconnect the radiator hoses, heater hoses, remove mechanical cooling fan or electric fans, and pull out the radiator.
Unbolt the engine mounts from below and remove power steering lines while you’re down there.
Also remove the driveshaft (make sure you drain all trans fluid first, try the speed sensor as that’s a good final drain).
Remove the clutch line.
Now begin removing the electrical harness and battery. Make sure you’ve removed the gas lines and make sure to keep the garage vented to prevent inhaling fumes. Once removed, you are near ready to remove the engine and transmission.
Attach your hoist to the engine. Before beginning to lift on the motorset, make sure the chains are tight and hop under the car to detach the transmission mount. Take care to remove the shifter assembly beforehand as it will drag along the trans tunnel on its way out if not removed and can bend the shift fork. You will now definitely need a second hand to help guide the removal. You’re in the clear now and it’s just a matter of taking your time to hoist the engine slowly out of the car and making sure you didn’t forget something.

Step 2: Pawn off your KA-T setup

Craigslist, Zilvia, Facebook groups, friends you don’t like or suckers you want to set up for failure… kidding I did love my KA-T, just feeding into the KA hate so many swear by.

Step 3: Clean the engine bay

You can go as crazy or half-ass as you want here. At the very least, pull out a power washer, some Simple Green and spray all of the crusted twenty year old road grime. Why start a project with a dirty canvas?
UPDATE(Nov 2017): Take your time and do this now! I’m currently removing my engine again now to tub the fenders and actually paint the bay lol.

Step 4: Go to Jspec and buy a 1JZ-GTE VVTI

Ask:

How many miles are on it?
What’s included?
Can you prove the compression of the engine?
Do you offer a warranty?

You want a front-sump oil pan found in most Chaser 1J’s. Be aware of which variant 1J you are purchasing. From my research, there is two major VVTI variants: JZX100/JZZ30 and JZX110. You want an early model 1JZ VVTI because they aren’t drive by wire. Avoid the models with ETCS-I, DBW is fine but can have a delayed feel. Most seem to prefer the direct feel of a mechanical linkage. DBW is awesome though, no IACV and if standalone you can map different pedal maps. Further explanation in the Appendix.

I went for the factory extended shifter found on Soarer R154’s, but you can just as easily purchase a W58 (weaker trans) or normal R154 and have the shifter extended rearward to fit with our chassis. There are a few other options such as the Nissan Z33 transmission or the all-powerful Getrag transmissions (V160), but both of these options typically cost a bit more. And regarding the shifter extension, you can purchase extended shifters from companies such as Freed Engineering.

UPDATE (November 2017): It seems over the short amount of time I’ve owned my swap that the CD009 has become far more popular. More adapter plates are available and for cheaper. Don’t overthink the transmission, choose one and go for it. CD009 may have a large upfront price with adapter plate, custom flywheel and new clutch but replacement and maintenance parts are far cheaper than R154 stuff. I have a feeling over the coming years we’ll see R154 prices continue to rise.

Also, make sure if you are buying a 1JZ VVTI that the importer has given you the MAF as the VVTI motors use both a MAF and a MAP sensor. Non-VVTI 1JZ use just a MAP. If they don’t offer it, you’re looking for a ‘95-’96 Lexus LS400 MAF as it’s a direct USDM replacement.

Step 5: Preventative Maintenance & Upgrades

Now that you have an empty engine bay, it might be a good time to do some maintenance and upgrades that are otherwise difficult to do with an engine in there. For example, a wire tuck, relocating relays and fuses, changing out power steering rack, adding a power steering cooler, prepping intercooler pipes, shaving fenderwells, tubbed fenders, relocated battery, and whatever else there is. After all of that a quick spray of the engine bay might look nice.

For the R154, the only part of the firewall/trans tunnel that needs to be massaged is near the starter. This will help you not have to pull the whole damn engine just to replace it in the event of it going. It will also help to bang out the area where the shifter goes as that can be a little tight depending on the mount kit.

Step 6: Install Motor Mount Kit, Sway Bar and other components in preparation for the swap.

I used the S13 Xcessive JZ swap kit. Replaces the Toyota JZ engine mount brackets so they work with your factory Nissan engine mounts and subframe. I also reinstalled everything I took out for paint.

FYI: The Xcessive Trans mount can only use one of the two R154 mount styles. I order Anchor Part #2410 off RockAuto for $6 and filled it with Window-weld instead of the $120 mount from Xcessive.

UPDATE(November 2017): Funny section to re-read, I ended up installing the Xcessive mounts later because the factory KA (even filled with windo-weld) sat the oil pan a little low.

Step 7:Address the Fuel Lines and extend them to the other side of the engine bay.

The fuel lines are simple but there are many ways of doing this. You can buy braided lines from a few manufacturers but I spent my time and did it with hard lines for a factory-style install. It’s pretty fun because you have a chance to choose your own routing. I would advise keeping the lines as far from the front of the vehicle or pinch spots as possible. In the event of a crash, you do not want your fuel lines to be compromised and have a leak.

UPDATE(November 2017): Again I’m redoing this even now. I extended the factory lines initially but am now starting from scratch and bending hardlines from the tank, across the rear subframe and up the driver’s side frame rail. Might sound daunting but trust me this is not difficult and will provide a cleaner and safer presentation.

Step 8: 1JZ-GTE Powertrain Overhaul[INDENT]Valve cover gaskets, cam seals, VVTI cam gear seal, downpipe gasket, front and rear main seals, transmission seals, shifter seals, oil pan gasket, a new water pump, spark plugs, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt pulley, accessory belt, vacuum lines, etc. No sense in having a leaky ‘new’ engine so I recommend nipping it in the butt now. I didn’t bother with the head gasket. There’s quite a few tricks around all of these maintenance jobs such as using a 1988 Isuzu Trooper (4ZEL) 2.6L 4 cyl motor timing belt (Gates T147) off of RockAuto because it’s dirt cheap and the same belt Toyota supplies. There are also many USDM MKIV 2JZ-GTE parts that are the same part numbers or upgrades.

Our friends at Club Lexus did a great job, check out the cross-reference list here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...ts-thread.html

Basic maintenance guide: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...k-service.html

I also upgraded the clutch and flywheel to a DriftMotion lightened flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, new pressure plate bolts and a SPEC Stage 3 sprung six-puck. Something to note here is how to deal with a pull-type clutch (Nissan typically uses push-type where the throwout bearing rides on the pressure plate teeth.

To install this type of clutch interface, it is recommended to fasten the flywheel and pilot bearing accordingly but then slides the release bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disk on the transmission spline. In other words do not bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel just yet. Then attach the R154 to the JZ engine and remove the inspection plates on the lower sides of the transmission. You will now be able to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel without potentially damaging the fork and release bearing.

Note: release bearing assembly:

Further info: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/596-gu...he-7mgte-r154/

While you're there attach your Future Fabrication turbo elbow for an easy off-the-shelf part to tackle the issue of exhaust routing. More info down in the appendix.


Step 9 : Install the entire motor set

Time to find out if all your hardwork has paid off. Test fit and make sure everything has room. I'll be honest the Xcessive mounts 100% work but required some extra work. I would spend some time and bang out the trans tunnel some before installing. Although it does all fit, the extended shifter runs into the trans tunnel a bit and needs the shifter hole opened up some more towards the rear of the car.

Then I would begin to thread the nuts on the intake side engine mount, then halfway tighten the trans mount, and lastly pick up just the exhaust side and install the final mount. Sounds odd but trust me, it works. Once everything is halfway on, put a jack under the trans so that the jack is parallel with the frame rails and just barely picking the trans up. Do the same with the engine hoist to the engine. Ensure the car is completely secure and shake/push the engine back. The purpose of this is to settle the drivetrain into place so that there is no bind. In the end I had about a thumbs-width between the back of the valve cover and the firewall.

Step 10: Modify or install the one-piece driveshaft & Order Electric Fans

My measurements: 46.5"
From my experience, the shifter hole must also be clearanced to allow the extended shifter to sit back.

And don't worry about wheels being on the ground, that's from Shaftmasters.com and is accounting for other suspension configurations. Both the transmission and rear diff on a 240 are hard mounted and do not articulate with suspension travel.

I also waited to order electric fans because I wanted to verify clearance and figure out if the radiator support shroud needed to be cut in order to tilt the fans forward. With Xcessive mounts, stock S13 engine mounts and the 1JZ pushed as far back as possible I had just enough room to fit the Flexalite 420 fans and a thick aluminum radiator. If you have a chance, grind down that snout on the waterpump, it sits a little too close for comfort.

Step 11: Mechanical Connections

Connect the intercooler piping, radiator, cooling fans, radiator hoses, heater hoses, clutch line, and power steering. A/C not covered in this tutorial as I opted out of it, plenty of threads explaining their Frankenstein AC setups using Nissan and Toyota parts. Or just go to any hose supplier and they should be able to help you out with custom lines.

Intercooler coupler sizes:
J-pipe/Compressor Intake = 2.75"
Compressor Exhaust = 2.25"
Throttle Body = 2.75"

Toyota temperature gauge (single pin) thread pitch = M16-1.5
KA/SR radiator hose size = 34mm

Step 12: Electrical Connections

Wiring harness job. I did not want to spend my limited wrenching time connecting the two harnesses and chose to pay someone to wire my harness. Panic Wire offers great prices and fairly quick turnaround, give them a shot. You’ll also have a hard time finding companies willing to wire the VVTI engine mostly because of the late model drive-by-wire.
*UPDATE*- Wiring Specialties now does VVTI harnesses

Please be patient in this part of the build. You really should contact your wiring guy as soon as you buy the engine as lead time is usually a little longer for this part.

If you do wire it up yourself, here's a JZX100 pinout. Sorry for the cached link, seems like a lot of forums are dying off.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us

Or here is Soarer ECU pinout: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing

Here's my harness completed:

Step 13: Fluids

Fresh coolant, oil, power steering and trans fluid. I’ve read that only red Toyota coolant should only be used in the JZ motors. I’m running Dexron III ATF for power steering fluid, Rotella T6 5W-40W synthetic oil, and Redline MT-40 trans fluid.

Step 14: First Start-up

Look over your engine bay and talk yourself through starting your engine. Do you have all your grounds, filled all your fluids, primed your oil and fuel lines, and connected all of your drivetrain? Cross your fingers and go for it. Some people disconnect their intercooler pipes from the intake for first start to blow any crap that might have collected in their while doing the swap...not bad idea.

FYI: The firing order for the VVTi 1jzgte is 1-5-3-6-2-4

Exhaust work:



Step 15: “Break-in” Procedure

This isn’t a new motor but I would go easy and drive the car lightly around to make sure you’re not leaking like crazy, overheating, smoking, on fire, have good oil pressure and the AFR readings appear accurate. Break in a new clutch if you installed one. After that I wouldn’t wait too long before running the engine through its paces. If it’s going to break, it’s going to break and you might as well do it before you waste a day at the track.

04/06/2016: Appendix moved to Post #2. Added problems and troubleshooting section.

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