hpipro4

ya i bought stuff frm them bfore. i mainly use 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2

justinbyrant

ok cool, last questions lol did you use a hot knife to cut it? i had someone tell me you could seal the braided stuff with a heat gun? and did you just use shrink wrap to end the wires

hpipro4

nah just use scissors n heat shrink at the end.

dpritchard4

so being a rookie at this, ive finally found the differences between the two harnesses, which may or may not be a big deal, really depends on what your doing with the car. the next step is determining whats needed with an sr swap.

Bubba

I just heated the end of a paint scraper and pressed the sleeving over the hot edge. Homemade hot knife FTW.
Otherwise, heat shrink over all ends to prevent fraying and future wire diagnosis without an act of congress. I like how clean it looks so I will just deal with the headache later on down the road.

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Good at wrenching, terrible at electrical. Lord help me... HAHAHA

justinbyrant

well i got my engine harness all done up now im moving on to the engine bay harness that goes around the outside, it seems pretty straightforward doesnt look to difficult however has anyone found out if some of the relays for the pop ups can be condensed somehow? since there is like 6 of them and a couple fuses

xiteamxi

[QUOTE=dpritchard4;4490188] the next step is determining whats needed with an sr swap. -also interested in this if you have to change plugs or any thing before i get it done then have to tare back into it, also interested in how to eliminate the relays for the flip ups and ac.

justinbyrant

well i got mine all done and running good, i will post some pics up in a few days, i did basicly the same thing hpipro did except i mounted my fuses in my blovebox upsaide down and i didnt link mine, i ran one for key on power and one for constant power with an inline alt fuse, condensed all my relays and put them in the stock relay box that goes under the stock air intake box and put that behind my ecu where the cruise control ecm usually goes

JohanM

Started working on the chassis harness, so far i got the fuse/relay panel done.
Need to get some hardware,and order the right size female conectors (they shipped the wrong size) and then i will have the panel all done.
i will keep updating as i go.

sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


lay out

GSXRJJordan

You have 10 circuits total? I'll give you a hint, you don't need 10 relays.

I dig that people are tackling these projects and do their research on what to buy/etc, and do a good job making the panels/harnesses... but the design is the most important part!! Proper diagramming means that you know EXACTLY what is on each circuit, and design each circuit for maximum functionality with the minimum number of parts (among other things)... that's where a lot of your reliability comes in.

Serviceability is next, make sure you're not throwing those panels some place where they're going to be stepped on or get wet or whatever, but lets make sure you can get to them (preferably while strapped in) if you need to check something.

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www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

Wake

You making complete rewire kits yet?
I would really rather give you my money than chasebays. My business partner agrees.

Ill take just an engine bay harness for now.

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GSXRJJordan

I don't know what you mean by 'complete rewire kits', like kits so you can make your own harness? I've provided them, but no one's ever finished one to my satisfaction. Most end up coming in (along with competitor's harnesses) for us to troubleshoot/finish.

If you mean a complete chassis harness, yes, we've been doing a couple a month along with our other stuff for the past few years actually. Every Formula D car you see with a Jordan Innovations sticker has at least a chassis harness by us. Let me know what you want to do with your bay (in PM or email) and I can go over some options.

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Jordan Innovations has a new web site!
www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

Wake

Sounds good. I just remember mentioning that I was planning on doing something similar to chasebays and you told me the cost to do it myself would be similar. I thought I remembered you saying something about you guys making something along those lines (cabin and engine OEM replacements) maybe I was mistaken.

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JohanM

Thanks Jordan, this is my first time doing something like this so any input from you guys will help.
so far im only using 8 of the relays.
quick question, for the wipers im using only Low/High speeds do i need to run 2 relays?

thanks

GSXRJJordan

Selling you a kit is almost as expensive as having us do it, correct. We've been replacing 100% of the OEM wiring with custom setups for years and years...

No relays on wipers, each stage (low and hi are just two halves of the same motor's windings) only draws 5 or 6 amps. Supply power to one wire, the other two ground through the stock switch (or your own SPDT switch).

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www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

JohanM

Thanks man!

roboticnissan

I love how this thread begins with instilling confidence that i can do this myself, and by the end, im just thinking ahhh fuck jordan will do it ooo much better

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fearlessKouki

does anybody know if it is possible to use 96 s14 fuse box harness in 97 kouki? need to know asap! thanks alot

ShadowMan

Is it ok to remove the relays and assoiated wires related to the H/L RET as its marked on the fuse box lids? Theres 3 in the driver side fuse box and 1 in the passenger fuse box. Just want to make sure my headlights will work if I remove all these un-needed wires?

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GSXRJJordan

Lol don't know how I missed this, but that's rad.

It's OBD2 so a lot of stuff will be there, but not always in the correct spot, and the headlight stuff is different.

You can remove them and the headlights will still work (headlights have two power wires going to the switch and 4 wires coming out of the switch - that's it), but retract won't.

If you're still popup, there are ways of wiring the motors to a simple DPDT switch, but you're relying on the motors internal limiters to cut current at the top and bottom. The factory design is safer, but not very elegant.

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www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

ShadowMan

Thanks for getting back on this, sorry for not being more specific, my car has an s15 front end so the pop ups aren't needed anymore. Trying to get this mild wire tuck finished. This is definitely tedious.

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240Cali

Def gonna be hitting up Jordans for a fuse box Relocate.. 'ISH looks CLEAN!!

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fast250sx

I can never find these in the store, or on line for that matter.

hpipro4

their on the soldering iron aisle.

justinbyrant

I know im reviving a 4 year old thread but I just want to see where everyone is at with their wiring and if anyone went further than they were discussing on here

this was mine when I was finished with the wiring with the ka in it
FB_IMG_1469129015098[1].jpg

and with my almost completed sr swap, engine harness will be tucked and reran after I get it running, AN fittings and lines on the way for my fuel rail, have a AN power steering setup, and a AN blowby setup going in as well
20160115_183343.jpg

TheRealSy90

I tucked my entire s13 engine bay harness with both boxes under the dash and the only wires I modified was extending the wires to the headlights lol. Other than that I just routed the entire oem harness and boxes under the dash. Ghetto but it works and I only had to modify a couple wires. This is on my track car with no climate parts under the dash though.

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justinbyrant

I ran all mine through the dash to but Im still running full interior so it was a pain in the ass lol I was able to delete and consolidate some stuff though, its amazing the things Nissan did with these cars, for example the windshield wiper amp box (little green box that sits behind the strut tower on either side of the engine bay) depending on if the car has abs or not the box sits on the driver or passenger side, if the car has abs its on the driver side, instead of running the wiring through the dash and shortening it they run it all the way around the engine bay so just removing abs and running the box back to the passenger side removed a bundle of wires the size of a quarter from both sides of the engine bay above the wheels

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FB_IMG_1469129463732[1].jpg

TheRealSy90

My 240 is non-abs and the green wiper box was on the driver side of the engine bay...

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justinbyrant

hmmm must be a year thing then or something I have had 3 or 4 and the box has always been on the driver side if it has abs and passenger side if it doesn't I always assumed it was just because the abs unit sits in that spot on the passenger side, are you sure yours is a non abs car and that someone didn't delete the abs prior to you owning it?

d_nice

cool thread.