2fast4y0u

/\ yes sir , it should be. but i figure you guys would answer faster then general discussion.

i have ran/ the car about 3 or 4 times with this tune. i actually just got the ecu back from Enthalpy. car runs amazing, its just this morning it was poopy.
im gonna drive it all this week because we finally have decent weather so i will keep trying.

S13 curtis

I was scrolling the fresh alloy forums and i found this dyno graph from a GT2871r.86 56 trim so far this is the highest one i found

Its Not Mine...

jspaeth

I wonder if that car has cams or Greddy intake manifold.

The "thing" that I look at now when looking at GT2871R graphs is

1) When does the motor FIRST make 300 ft-lbs of torque and

2) When does the engine LAST make 300-ft-lbs of torque.

The above car, even though it has a big hp number, makes 300 ft-lbs from 4500-7000 RPM.

Granted it makes a BOATLOAD of torque in between (up to 380 ft-lbs!).

I just think it would be nice to see that torque kick in a little later and hold out a little longer....

I don't know if it's just the SR head or what not, but if you look at Cody's dyno, his torque remains nearly flat out to 6500 before it starts dropping.

If this thing could keep it's peak torque out to 6500, and THEN start tapering off, it would probably result in 460+ whp.....


Maybe I am just full of shit and the turbo is at it's maximum output (most likely)

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slider2828

Also, you gotta look at what dyno graphs you looking at. This is a Dynojet so you gotta have some correction in the numbers being read....

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2fast4y0u

so i finally gave my car some serious hell yesterday. i setup my accelerometer and figured i would make a "1/4 mile pass" just to see what it can do.
well to my suprise it did very well but man was it smoking on the top end. 3rd gear was nothing but a fog machine behind me. couldnt really tell what color the smoke was (blue or white) but it definetely wasnt black. when i let off the fuel pedal i was doing about 120 and the smoke had stopped.
any ideas what this might be? obviously oil or water...but figured i would ask you guys who are running basically my same setup. i checked for oil leaks after the "run" and didnt see any. im gonna do a compression test today hopefully and see what happends.

slider2828

That is not good.... Blue means pretty much blown motor for sure... White could be head gasket or turbo water seal, black is pretty oil seal on turbo...

But sounds like a motor issue at least in my experience turbos won't smoke during boost and when you let go is when it smokes.... at least on turbos that are about to go....

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2fast4y0u

well i took it out yesterday afternoon and had a buddy follow me to check it out. he said it wasnt smoking at all but he can smell something haneous. i put it on the lift last night and i will do a little investigating today. looks like one of my taka lines might be leaking oil. not sure thats the cause of all this but its possible

oh, do taka lines come with the oil restrictor in them already? is this something i can see with it all installed in the car?

Psycho 240 Freak

Anyone know for sure which 2871r's comes with the turbine divider and which ones don't? Looking around, it seems as if the older ones with the 3 in inlet doesn't have the divider on the turbine side while the ones with the 2 in inlet has the divider. Does this sound right?

jspaeth

I have a "newer" one with a 2" or 2.25" compressor inlet, and my turbine housing DOES have the divider.

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slider2828

No divider on the 3 inch inlet.... Those are just the GT Style frames... its not older or newer style really.... They are different frames that is all but performance is the same... Supposedly the 3 inch inlet ones are better....

@2Fast, something haneous could be tranny cause oil doesn't tooo bad hahaha... Old taka do come with restrictor (5 years ago) anything newer no it doesn't come with restrictor.... Buy one...

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2fast4y0u

well i had my buddy follow me the other day, i ripped 2nd, 3rd, and 4th to redline and no smoke. he said he smelled something but no smoke. i havent driven the car since then but its up on the rack and i can see that the oil feed line must have a really small leak because i have little oil drops forming on the fitting.
Heres another weird thing though, i have oil all over the bottom of my manifold and a few drops on my intake pipe.
ill snap some photos and make an actual thread about this. ill post the link up when i do

idahotuner

sounds like your pvc valve might be shot? are you running a catch can? does the t on the valve cover run to your turbo in take.? I know when you start running higher boost the vacuum will be so much in the intake pipe it can draw oil through all the way to your manifold, also if your pvc valve isnt working it would pressurize the block forcing more through the T into your intake. i have a circuit sport catch can, and it doesnt have a baffel between the intake bunge and the exit bung, so the air would suck right across and not drop the oil out.

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2fast4y0u

no catch can...breather filter and stainless braided line to the case.

not even sure that i have a pcv valve on there.

+Waldo+

motor is FINALLY in the car, hopefully running next week, ill post a dyno sheet shortly after


rom tune
2871 56trim .64
tomei 740's
tomei pro cam 260's
tubular mani with custom external WG and open dump
built motor top and bottom end


being excited about getting this finished would be a HUGE under statement. car has been down for going on 5-6 months

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ApexDrift

ok so im hitting a pathetic 250hp with my eprom ecu and the set up listed below i was hoping to hit higher numbers, so i went out and picked up a Power fc l jetro which has finally arrived. thing is the shop that tuned the eprom said the pfc wont be much better. is he talking crazy, and any HP predictions?

SR20DET black top
Greddy Vspec front mount
Megan turbo manifold
GT2871R .86
3” Megan down pipe
3” Megan test pipe
3” cat back
HKS SSQ BOV
550cc STI injecters
Rom tune ecu
Z32 Fuel filter
Z32 MAF
255cc walbro fuel pump

Psycho 240 Freak

I'll be looking forward to seeing your numbers too. I have a similar set up and plan to get mine dyno when I get back. What dyno will you be dynoing on?

How much psi are you pushing? What dyno is it going to be on? Mine was dyno'd before with a HKS GT2530 on a Mustang dyno and only made 270 whp at 17 psi, yet my car can keep up with guys who claims over 300 whp. On the 1/4 mile, I also trap around the same mph as they do as well with a lower boost setting. I have the GT2871R .64 now, so I'm curious as to with the addition of cams what my numbers will be. I'm sure it'll be another dissapointment with the Mustang dyno, but the trap speed on the 1/4 will paint a better picture.

slider2828

Contact SteveShadows for a base map for the PFC.... then call it a done day....

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+Waldo+

not sure yet, this is the first time i have a set-up worth looking into so i gott research around. the only thing im waiting on is wiring in my gauges and gismo, manual brake booster to clear the mani, and making my IC piping since im running a half way backdoor IC set-up lol.

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2fast4y0u

what kind of vacuum at idle are u guys getting with the 2871 and 264 cams? thought was low so i did a leak test and i have no leaks at all...but ihave low vacuum at idle

slider2828

Idle I get about 8psi @ 950RPM... I dunno what hg that is.... built motor je pisonts, eagle rods all stock bore... HKS 264 Step1....

One thing is with 264's you gotta raise the idle to about 950 to 1000..... it won't idle very well below that....

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jspaeth

I have 264 Step 2's (12/11.5 mm lift) and my vacuum is WAY lower than stock....

Stock I was seeing like -20 inHg or so....which is like 9.5-10 psi....

With the bigger HKS cams, I see like maybe like 5.5 psi or so at 800 RPMs....

They definitely have way more overlap than stock cams, so you are gonna have substantially less vacuum at idle.

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u_contempt

i'd just like to throw my 2 cents in on this turbo.i am running a similar setup as to everyone here. gt2871r .86 264 cams with built bottom and top end and PFC. but i absolutely love this turbo. it has great response and it pulls power to my redline. i just finished up my motor break in and i am running 11.2-11.9 a/f with 9psi and i've walked cars that dynoed 300whp. i still haven't dynoed my car yet but it's still impressive with only 9psi. i'm looking forward to dynoing the car and running 18-20psi. i'd really hoping that i can get 400whp out of it. but again i really won't know until i dyno it. but i have no complaints on how great this turbocharger works. i mean of course there are bigger out there. gt2871r love it! ha

2fast4y0u

just making sure my vacuum is in order. having idle issues and i wanted to rule that out. im seeing about 8 psi around 800 rpm

slider2828

It will fluctuate at 800 RPM... 950 Trust me....

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derass

does anyone with the gt28 have compressor surge at all? i just installed a tial bov and after doing some reasearch...i learned that even after i get the bov tuned as best i can i will still experience surge in vacuum/low boost.

i am wondering if anyone has driven for any extended length of time with some surge on their gt turbo?

slider2828

Normal... I have it.... don't get your panty's in a bunch lol

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jspaeth

It is impossible to simultaneously have a BOV that DOESN'T leak at idle but also DOESN'T surge period.

It is a simple spring mechanism.....any surge from letting off under 5-6 psi or something is really not a big deal.

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Daily driven

codyace

Did you reset mechanical timing? This is usually always the issue with cam swaps in cars. Even if you stab the CAS correctly, timing can still be off. You'd probably be best resetting timing and then going from there. Also, raising idle a hair can also help (as said above)


Sidenote: GT series turbos and their ball bearing CHRA's are very resistant to surge damage

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2fast4y0u

cody - explain just a bit more if u can. by mechanical timing, do u mean cas?
i have had the cams installed and running for a few years now, just seems like my vacuum got low recently.still looking for vacuum leaks.

codyace

When you restab the crank angle sensor, you should re verify total timing by using a light. Even the slightest 'off' when restabbing it can result in timing flucatuations.

When I stab a CAS, I light up the dots as noted in FSM, and then make sure the 'adjustment' is in the middle of the range. I stab it, put a light on it, and reverify timing to make sure. I've noticed with aftermarket cams, it is sometimes different...doing it with a light really sets them up perfectly.

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