a_ahmed

Hey guys,

Okay so I'm kind of fed up of this issue... I've had it for quite some time now, maybe a few months now?

The rear end feels like its gona steer itself where it shouldnt... it hops in a wobbly manner side to side. If that makes sense.

I recently installed front and rear DC Sports STBs, and well it reallyyyyy firmed up the front and rear... the shocks started working better, everything seemed better.

However, recently... well... last few days I don't know if i just got accustomed to the changes but, its going back to similarly how it was.

I mean once I installed the STBs everything was firmer, even the wobble went away and noises kind of went away too.. it still is firm... but this wobble.. man this wobble... and the noises kind of are coming back...

Another thing was, since I installed the STB the noises while gone for a while (now seem to be back) there was a new noise... a squeeky loose nut kind of sound (not the struts or STB, they are bolted tightly).

Recently I looked under the car and I saw that the PDM/whiteline subframe spacers I had installed when I rebuilt the car a year ago were MISSING lol... they were non metal ones, and so it makes me wonder is this the issue?

I don't know how they 'disappeared', but they sure as hell aren't there as they were bright as bright gets in yellow... its just a kind of empty space now......

Help?

mad-ass

alignment issue?

D1GP

the problem is called dog-tracking. most say it is due to the subframe bushing so i would suggest new collars, solid bushings (SPL), nismo (hard rubber), or polyurethane (ES 300zx). it could also be bad rear ball joints.

mad-ass

if you are going to get new sub frame bushings, just get Nismo's.

they are fairly cheap.

a_ahmed

Okay... well, then... damn it... I didn't want to spend money right now working on the rear end (well i do, I want to rebuild the rear end better... but i had some other plans......)

While I'm at this...... i might as well ask about the subframe and what could be done with it. I want to get the subframe in order... since its such a pita to take off in the first place... so if I take it off I want it fixed up and powder coated...

Anyways I have a Canadian 91 hatch with a HICAS subframe, i have a kazama hicas eliminator installed though.

I plan to build this car up pretty mean, so I theoretically already intended to swap another subframe of sorts previously (on my to do list).

I thought non hiacs s13 subframe or something better like the S15 subframe as I read thats a good option (not that i know plus isnt it hicas as well). And ultimately have it nicely sandblasted, reinforced and installed with the SPL alum bushings...

What are my options though as I have no experience from the get go? I remember reading people saying that an s15 subframe is worthwhile... is that a wise choice? Kind of hard to source even though so doesn't seem like it...

Otherwise could I get a used s13 non HICAS subframe and get it sandblasted and welded by some shop (if I could be guided as to which parts would need to be reinforced?) Cause honestly I can't do the fabricating or work on it myself... I don't even have space or tools to do the welding/etc...

What are my options that I can take though. I don't want to cheap out (eg; PDM whiteline inserts... instead of full subframe rebuild... they snapped out I guess?)

mad-ass

why are you going to powder coat something that you'll never see unless you lift the car up? preventing it from rusting or something?
good pressure washing will do that just fine, and if you want to prevent rusting, just spray some paint over to seal it up.

and if you want to do all things nice and easy as you say so, with your plans ahead, get what subframe you want, and just replace all the bushings on it when doing the swap

!Zar!

You're making everything more complicated then it needs to be.

Keep the subframe that's on the car then purchase spl subframe collars. They are like seventy five bucks and can be installed without removing your subframe.

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jspaeth

yah call up kuah and get some subframe collars...they are a MUST have and take like 30 minutes to install

before i had them, i felt like the ass end of my car was running into itself when i got on it, then shifted....after putting them on, everything is nice and together

amplifi3d

My rear end would feel wobbly and unstable at certaint speeds. Made driving my car very irratating. My problem was that the rear toe was realy off on one side causing the car to feel as if it were kicking out for a brief moment. Take it to an alignment shop and have them check it out.

a_ahmed

I don't care too much about the looks, I just want it rebuilt and rustless... that is all, and at the same time if i were to do it, have the subframe strengthened... Likewise shed some weight from the hicas subframe and hicas eliminator and use that weight some place else or something...


I might again just do it on the quick cheap fix route and just get the alum inserts from spl then... but i do want to and have planned already to get the whole subframe redone... I'm not doing the car on the cheap this time around...

darius_tii

yea i think its ur toe that is relaly messed up in the rear...get an alignment and fix that toe and all will be well!

-Darius

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Darius

aznpoopy

if your toe is fucking whacked the rear end will feel really loose when it squats

your toe will generally be fucked when you've done any significant height changing suspension mod or replaced suspension arms, and then neglect to get an alignment. alot of people do this unfortunately

lunchtime

Necro replying, but got here from a google search in 2021 and can confirm that I'm having same issue with my S15.

Recently replaced all the rear suspension arms. Currently putting in collars and new solid diff bushings along side engine and tranny mounts. Should stiffen everything right up without replacing actual subframe bushings.

2-Way LSD in the rear, making me thing worn diff bushings may also contribute since it's mostly noticeable while the rear end is locked up.

I'll try and report back if this DOESN'T fix the problem. Otherwise, assume subframe collars do the trick.

cured13

please do and fill that empty space in the subframe bushes with polyurethane (windows weld) before closing it up with collars. Easy, quick, cheap. Oh and post some more pics.

SupaDoopa

The collars - to me - are a temporary fix until you have time to drop the subframe. I'd either replace the bushings with solid or NISMO depending on your goals and purposes for the car. If you plan to swap them for solids, just get the SPL kit because it'll come with the bushings and collars together. You can use one while waiting to do the other.