jedi03

did you make your own rear crossmember or use someone elses?

loucal

Hey All,

I've had this up and running for a couple of years now. You are 100% rubbing on the chassis. It literally hits somewhere on every side of the trans/tunnel.

Also what deff said, when i was first fitting everything up i was hard up against the top of the tunnel.

What cross member are you using?

Lou

LovetoSlide

Man all these suggestions but none coming from someone who actually uses the trans......I bought a brand new OS giken twin plate, brand new cd009 when everything was swapped in. using maverick's adapter plate where the bellhousing was trimmed to fit.

The noise is super obvious on decel and it sounds like a fighter jet....before the old mounts (they were either stock or nismo) it would sound like a freight train coming off it's rails....now after my mech switched it to solid mounts....the noise is bearable at the most but still apparent.

I notice the noise goes away a lot when you muzzle the shifter....I want to say that's the best we can do at this point is just get a shit load of sound deadening in the area.

My buddy has the same set-up and gets the same sounds......the car feels and shifts great, grabs so hard that v8 stang, STI's are child's play. even my friend's s14 with 300+ versus my stock turbo set-up could only pull away from me by inches.

It sounds awful but it's definitely not mechanical, sounds like what loucal says about chassis rubs.

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TheRealSy90

TS2BD clutch? What flywheel bolts did you use? Did you have to cut them shorter like the instructions say?




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canadians14sr20det

So I've thought about this issue a lot lately lol as I had my GT3076R grenade itself (waiting on parts).

Here's what I have:

• Makes the noise slightly in neutral (clutch pedal out) and in gear (clutch pedal in) with the car stationary.
• Makes the noise BADLY under load (driving or rear wheels in the air with ebrake dragging)

My thoughts on causes are now only the following:

• Transmission is shifting hitting the body under load.
  (I really doubt it's this, as the shifter barely moves and I have clearanced the shit out of the tunnel, ensuring there's at minimum half an inch. I've also tested this by moving the transmission down another inch on its mounts, still makes the noise.)
• Resonance in the z33 transmission.

I think it's resonance. I'm using the S-chassis mount on the transmission with a crossmember I fabricated. If you look at the oem nissan mount it's a completely different design. It's also secured to the crossmember by a bolt nissan itself calls a "damper bolt". Nissan also uses a dual mass flywheel to smooth vibrations as well. I'm thinking this transmission is just super noisy by design.

Solution? I don't really have one, but I'm gonna build a new crossmember that uses nissan's mount system over the winter, but until the snow flies I'm just gonna drive it.

wurley

Could you explain to me how you did this please? It might help my cousin dealing with a similar vibration on a different car.

If clutch pedal is pressed in with the car stationary, doesn't that mean nothing is moving in the trans?

When converting from a dual mass to regular flywheel, people often talk about having more vibration and noise. I have seen threads on bmw and volkswagon forums about this.

loucal

You all realize that these transmissions right out of the box are extremely loud right?

Go on a 350z forum and you will see plenty of complaints about how loud they are and that is in a car that has much better sound deadening than our cars. I have about 3,500 miles on my setup and am making 400whp and the trans is perfectly fine, and loud as hell.

I wouldn't worry and go ahead and enjoy the car.

Lou

canadians14sr20det

This isn't just this car being loud, trust me. This is some sort of resonance that vibrates the entire chassis, feels like the car is gonna come apart. Also the fact it happens at one part of the rev range is concerning. Resonances like that can be highly destructive.

Get a vibration measuring app for your phone. I used "Vibrations" on a samsung s6 edge. It uses the accelerometer and microphone to figure out the mechanical and audio vibration. It's pretty accurate surprisingly. I just set my phone on the valve cover and opened the throttle to 4000rpm. Then you can convert the vibration from Hz to rpm by doing this:

http://www.kylesconverter.com/freque...ons-per-minute

If you get a Hz reading of say 134, you know the vibration is occuring at 8000RPM or twice every crank rotation if your are revving the motor to 4000RPM and holding it there. Generally, if it happens in the first order, look at your rotating assembly (flywheel, crank, pistons/rods and balancer). If it happens at the half order (or less) look at your valvetrain. If it happens at the second order good luck, it can be a ton of things. Read up on vibration analysis in machinery for more on this. Hope that helps!

If the clutch pedal is pushed in with the car in gear it means nothing is moving in the trans. If the pedal is pushed in but the transmission is in neutral drag on the clutch disk and input shaft snub will still rotate the transmission a bit, but not a lot.

canadians14sr20det

Has anybody used the mazworx sr to vq bellhousing? Also thinking of going this route, would like to know what the noise level is in that thing before pulling the trigger on a $900 part.

TheRealSy90

I'll be using it myself, haven't installed it yet. These transmissions ARE "noisy", but shouldn't be anything crazy. But they are louder than the stock trans for sure.


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wurley

yeah that defiantly gives me something to try. thanks.

are you 100% you ruled out the motor by putting on the sr bell housing? it sound like your tests of clutch in/out dont point towards the trans. Just trying to make sure you dont overlook anything.

just wondering: how high does your mount system hold the trans? I heard they hang below the frame rail with kits on the market

canadians14sr20det

I can't be 100% sure it's not in the motor. It doesn't do it particularly badly unless the car is under load. Only way to be 100% sure would be to swap back to a known good sr20det trans. However I'm pretty sure it's in the trans as the car did not have this noise at all before the swap.

The motor mounts I'm using are filled oem ones. They feel similar to a buddy of mine's nismo ones, but they sit lower to help with transmission clearance at the top of the tunnel. It definitely hangs below the frame rails, but less so than some other z33 swaps I've seen.

insa

I have the same issue here. SR20DET with Z33 transmission swap. The transmission is loud by itself, which is fine, but I also have crazy vibrations.

Hours were spent checking clearance to the transmission tunnel, and I think this is not causing this.

The transmission worked fine at some point in the past, but problems started when when a downpipe to engine block bracket was added to support the exhaust manifold and take weight off it (as I was having a problem with cracks). At the same time I changed the Z33 OEM rubber transmission mount to a polyurethane unit, which increased the vibrations to a level where you felt uncomfortable driving the car. Changed it back to Z33 OEM rubber mount, which helped. Then changed again to a hardened rubber mount, which is acceptable, but not good.

A rubber connecting mount (don't know the exact english word for this) was added to the block to downpipe connection, which only helped a bit. If downpipe and engine block are not connected, the vibrations are nearly gone. But then I have the manifold cracking issues again, and I don't know which is worse...

insa

Yes, this was checked again and again. This was an issue (which sounded different by the way), but the box was taken out twice and space was made (using the good old hammering method )

This only occours at a certain point in the rev range (~4.5/5k rpm). Both when driving and also when reving stationary.

R3b

Just my .02 but I think its normal if your running a puck clutch. I have a similar issue with my ka-t setup. I had spec before and had crazy vibration around 3.5-4k on decel, did literally everything from mounts, bushings, driveshaft and even cracked open the bell housing and everything checked out.

Just rebuilt the motor and had the whole rotating assembly balance with comp bunny clutch for more power and right after starting up the car and driving down the block the noise was still there but less aggressive.

Its just "racecar" problems and something you have to deal with, running a puck clutch in any sorta car will make crazy noise having less dampening and stuff outside of oem shifter, mounts, flywheel etc will just make it louder than it should be.

Does it sound like this? Asked the guy and he told me the exact thing just being the puck clutch and is "normal" @17:33

Teambadrun

ok so
the z33 transmission is always noisey, and being a SMF it will be even noisier then stock.
i wouldnt worry about it
we have done loads of conversions of the z33 box to RB, JZ and SR20's and most are noisey, unless its a totally new transmission then the noise is minimized
thanks

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insa

Nope, it doesn't sound like in the video at 17:33. In my case, we are also still running a dampened organic clutch...

It's not about noise. Don't really care about noise. It's about vibrations, as these can be harmful to other components.

I guess I will make a video next year...

fatduece

Teambadrun what is smf?

R3b

So much fun

hanzbrady

Single Mass Flywheel.

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fatduece

Thank you.

travon47

Are you running the harmonic weights that are attached to the back of transmission stock? I am not running them but do not have a problem with ls1>cd009. 4 cyl just put off a lot of vibrations naturally, the reason a lot come with balance shafts.

fatduece

^What balancer shafts are you talking about? Pictures would be great.

hanzbrady

He's talking about balance shafts that are OEM parts to engines like the 4G63

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fatduece

I know about the ag63 but he said harmonic weights attached to the back of the transmission. I've. Ever herd of that before.

travon47

There are 2, one on each side right below the shifter
http://www.slidegood.com/nissan/03-n...sion-weight-mt

gaz_moose

if your going to pull the thing to pieces then maybe have a look at your spigot bearing in the back of the crankshaft as if the adapter plate sits the box out of line ever so slightly it can wear the spigot causing the input shaft to wiggle around.

fatduece

Thank you. Man that's weird. I bought a new cd009 and it didn't come with those.

hanzbrady

I sell new CD009's and I've never seen those lol

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travon47

Makes sense because its an add on to the trans. I am not sure if they would fit with a custom trans mount in a s chassis( I took mine off before installing into car) but if I can find mine I could send them to whom ever if they pay shipping