Broadfield

I will work on any car as long as it is at my shop. I don't care if you drive it, ship it, float it etc. However, if the car is already some POS wiring nightmare, hack job, then I will decline it. When you say you want my cluster setup, what exactly do you mean? The gauges and HUD I had are no longer available. So just let me know exactly what you want in the cluster and I can shoot you a price. You can find pricing to get you started here:

http://zilvia.net/f/interior-exterio...roadfield.html

Sorry, not even remotely my line of work.

Yes, you can run a cable directly from your device to an amplifier. I would highly recommend the ARC XDi804 and Hybrid Audio Mirius. These would be the very best of entry level gear. Please PM or email me if you need pricing.

As for speakers, I will always recommend Hybrid Audio over anything on the market. However, your Bose setup is amplified... you will not get the same volume or midbass impact without an aftermarket amplifier driving the Hybrids.

As for a hinge, that's easy. But I assume you want the latching device? You would probably need to fab something yourself. Some of those pockets with the "auto" door are somewhat complicated. You could maybe use a spring loaded magnet release setup!?!

I have multiple different sets from MAC, Matco and Snap-On. However, it's very rare I have to de-pin a plug in my line of work. I would ask Chase or Jeff Jordan.

You would simply use a magnetic switch like one of these from DEI. PM or email me for pricing.

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hpipro4

where can i get this carpet you use? thnx

Broadfield

From me! It runs $9/yd and is 52" wide.

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hpipro4

how do you go by taking out the old carpeting on the panels? i have the hatch and dont like the brown carpeting.

thnx

Broadfield

You carpet over the old carpet.

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hpipro4

can you go over the process? pls

do i need to scuff some of the old carpet out or just spray some glue and lay over the new carpet?

thnx

blueshark123

I have a viper alarm question I had bought a AU94tm Sensor for a viper alarm system that i never got to use on. I just got a newer viper 5701, Can this sensor be installed if so how since it doesn't plug into the auxiliary port of the brain. If it doesnt work what do you recommend to use instead of this? 509u?

Big Zee

Thank you!!

Broadfield

You can simply use the can spray adhesive I posted here:

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/4...ml#post4535729

You will want to spray both surfaces and let it set for a few minutes. You can then apply the new carpet right over the old stuff. I'm sure this will take a little practice. You will probably end up with wrinkles etc. It takes a little bit of skill to wrap the panels with no imperfections. However, you can always rip the carpet off and start over with a fresh piece if needed.



You can just cut the plug off and hardwire to the Viper. It should of come with instructions!?! If not let me know and I'll figure out what goes to what.

The only bad thing about that sensor and the Viper 508D for that matter, is the fact that they may false with all of the RF interference there is these days. So now I really only use the 509U and have zero issues.

No problem!

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!!chuy!!

i have a question /questions and need oppinions... here it goes.(spelling sucks)

so ive had my rb25 s1 in my s13 for about 5 to 6 years now...and ive also had a welded diff for the longest time since i first swapped the motor.. and im simply tired of it hahahh ( people with welded diffs know what im talking about ahah) well i love that its locked when i dump the clutch and allows me to go sideways but i hate that its locked when im taking a simple 5 mph turn...all that jerkin need to come to an end lol, but ive wanted a real lsd for the longest time now.... and i dont wanna go thrue the hassle of getting a vlsd.... i have the money should i buy it?

heres were it gets tricky and i cant simply decide what i want to do with my money just yet.... i also want to tune my car.. its stock with just a fmic and exhaust... (and in mind of getting rid of my stuppid maf...i hate that thing..). ive had alot of fun with it threw the years but for a while now ive gotten use to it and i want to feel more power and slowly start adding things on to the motor...thats wy i want to get an engine management system...perferably AEM ems v2 along those lines of a fully programable system. what would you purchase... oppinions greatly appreciated.
i like going sideways but i also like the sound of the engine. so im not sure what i should do first...eventually they will both be purchase and equiped in the vehicle but i need a start somewere... what should i do..................

blueshark123

Nope no instructions all it says is that you have to plug it into the auxilary port. Its 4 wires if you figure out how to make it work please let me know, in the mean time i will try to google up on it some more.

Thanks for the help

TougeLove

is an s2000 cluster plug and play possible for my 89 coupe. if so, ballpark figure for price?

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Broadfield

If it was me I would take care of the diff first... I wouldn't be caught dead with a welded diff. This is assuming that your car is running fine without engine management though.

As for the engine management, I only have experience on the Nissans with the PowerFC. Which I had zero issues with.

Ok, I'll start looking for wiring info on it.

I don't do the wiring side of it for customers without the car in my possession.... I would need your car and cluster to test for proper operation etc.

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upsdude

seriously considering a keyless ignition system. but don't want to just get a cheapy ebay kit. found this on google and have yet to really look around, but what do you think about this:

Advanced Keys - AK-104B Smart Key with Push Start System

i'm a total noob to this stuff but it looks like a good system with the rfid cards and emergency back up cards too. any thoughts?

Broadfield

I have actually considered becoming a dealer for this company in the past... just to get one of their units in and check it out to see if it's legit or a hunk of crap. I have no experience with this kit or any other RFID kit for that matter. I obviously work around the OEM stuff everyday and have no complaints.

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Flush240

I apologize if this has been posted already...

Could you provide me a list of the materials you used to prep the engine bay for paint and where did you get them from?

Future240

First off I'd like to offer many thanks for this thread. I have always admired your work.

So I figured it is time to get serious with my car audio. GSXRJJordan has given me a lot of good pointers to start with.

These fronts and highs
6.5" CDT Audio CL-62 PRO Classic Component Set CL62 NEW | eBay

Originally this amp
CADENCE AUDIO 300 WATT RMS 2 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER AMP | eBay

I saw this one and thinking about it now.
XaH175.2 CADENCE ORANGE 2 CHANNEL AMP 700W SUB SUBWOOFERS SPEAKER AMPLIFIER NEW | eBay


Replacing the old pioneer with a newer one. Deciding between these three.
DEH-80PRS - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with 3-Way Active Crossover Network, Auto EQ, and Auto Time Alignment | Pioneer Electronics USA
DEH-P9400BH - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with Full-Dot LCD Display, Built-In Bluetooth®, and HD Radio™ Tuner | Pioneer Electronics USA
DEH-P8400BH - <b>NEW!</b> - CD Receiver with Full-Dot LCD Display, MIXTRAX, Built-In Bluetooth®, and HD Radio™ Tuner | Pioneer Electronics USA

Right now I have a Fi SSD 12" with an Autotek amp.

I want to switch those out with a JL W7 12" ( I really want a 13.5, but I don't think a 13.5 would fit an S14 trunk well) with MBQuart or Hifonics amp (does it really matter since they are both Maxxsonics products?)

HIFONICS HFi1500D 1500 W Car Mono Class D Amplifier/Amp | eBay

MB QUART ONX1.1500D MONO BLOCK CLASS D 1500W RMS MOSFET CAR SUB WOOFER AMPLIFIER | eBay

As far as sound deadening after reading some stuff I think I will be using second skin all over, maybe some foam in the doors, and replacing the window seals all around.

May you give me your thoughts on it?

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Broadfield

Are you just repainting, shaving, filling, repairing? The list of items is going to vary greatly depending on what you are doing.

Thanks for the thanks! However, you are not going to get too much advice from me. This is where I draw the line since my business is high-end car audio. You asking me about all of this Ebay crap is like calling up the Ferrari dealership and asking them which Ford you should buy. Keep in mind, I HATE Ebay... it has ruined the car audio industry. A bunch of nobody's selling car audio for next to nothing out of a warehouse. They are not authorized and only know the product from what the description says on the box. So please understand where I am coming from and have enough respect for my knowledge and service to not ask me about audio product that I don't sell... it would be a conflict in interest.

Funny story: I had a guy come in my store last year and literally asked me what speakers I would recommend so he could go buy them off the internet. I'm thinking to myself, REALLY you just asked me that!?! I quite frankly told him to ask the internet site he was buying them off of. I think he finally got the picture.

If you would like pricing on stuff that I would recommend from my shop then I would be more than happy to help you out. But I will tell you up front that I don't have anything as cheap as what you are looking at for the most part.... but you do get what you pay for.

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Flush240

actually i'm doing all the things you mentioned.

DreamN

Any advice on removing fine scratches and imperfections from the gauge cluster clear plastic cover?

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Future240

I understand, those links I posted are not eBay products. Those are products sold on eBay. I would never buy buy eBay knock offs.

I was under the impression that the stuff I posted is high quality.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/cl_series.htm
http://www.maxxsonics.com/
http://www.cadencesound.com/categories/Amplifiers/



My next question is then what defines high quality car audio? Specially what should one look for when shopping for high quality audio and how to tell the difference between high quality and bottom barrel.

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dkim1985

If you see where the arrow is pointing, the vinyl is 'curving' upward and that little space where the fabric starts is starting to tear the vinyl along that line. I also have another set of doors that have the same problem.

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Broadfield

You will need:

Etch primer
Maybe weld-thru primer
Various grits of sandpaper: 80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 500
Air sander with 36, 50 grit
Electric grinder with flapper wheel sanding disc
Rage Gold filler
Rage Metal Glaze
Seam Sealer
Filler spreaders
Maxx Solv
3M red scuff pads
3M grey scuff pads
3M guide coat or similar

I'm sure I'm forgetting something. If you have any questions as you are doing it, check out my post in this thread or shoot me a PM.

http://zilvia.net/f/off-topic-chat/4...ml#post4535485


Wet sand it then polish it with automotive polish. You will need to use various grits of sandpaper depending on how deep your scratches are. I usually use 1200, 1500 then finish with 2000. I then use four stages of polish from Pinnacle. I sand and polish both the inside and outside. If 1200 grit doesn't remove your scratches then you will need to start with a harsher grit and still end up at 2000.

I guess I should of said crappy Ebay sellers who are not authorized to sell the product. However, most of those brands you listed may actually encourage internet sales. All your legitimate big name brands do not allow traditional internet sales... shopping cart websites etc. Since I do not sell from a traditional site, I get away with it. It's impossible to buy something from me with out direct contact with me first. That way I can make sure my customers are getting the correct product for their needs before they purchase it.

As for being able to tell the difference between crap and good... the price. One of those amplifiers was like $119 or something for a "700" watt amplifier. Christ, I can't even buy a pair of jeans for that cheap. Anything that cheap is for sure made in China, most likely designed in China and has a cookie cutter circuit board copied from some other cheap Chinese made amplifier. It won't put out 700 watts because it goes against the laws of electricity to be able to do that on a 40 amp fuse. It would need 17.5 volts at 40 amps to produce 700 watts. An amplifier that cheap will typically have minimal capacitance, cheap power supply, poor signal-to-noise ratio, poor dampening factor, poor ground loop noise isolation etc.

CDT is fine, definitely not as good as Hybrid Audio, but nothing is. MB Quart used to be really good when I started my career.... 20 years ago. It's total cheap crap now unfortunately. A 1500 watt mono block for $164 makes me laugh. I can't believe it's possible to make an amplifier that cheap.

The only way to fix that is to remove the tweed and vinyl from the insert, glue the vinyl down where it's lifting, then reupholster the insert with new material.

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upsdude

well i guess i could try it and do a review lol

Future240

What are your thoughts on signal processors and capacitors?

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Broadfield

Go for it!

I don't use capacitors too often... most customers don't fork over the dough. And believe it or not there is a big difference from one brand to the next. If you buy a $50 capacitor it isn't going to do a damn thing for you. Check this out:

Do Capacitors Do Anything - The Truth About Car Audio Capacitors - YouTube

As for signal processing, this is totally up to you. It's designed to supplement any deficiencies you have in your staging and frequency response. I usually like to keep it simple so I usually forgo processors. I only use quality speakers that will accurately reproduce the notes as they were intended in the original recording. Marry a good set of speakers with a decent amplifier(s) and that will take you a long ways. Now if I competed on a national level then that would change things... I would have a pretty mean processor.

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milk_with_pulp

Toby,

Upgrading 1998 240sx Ground/Power. AKA Big 3 Upgrade.
Currently the wires are stock and have read information about upgrading Alternator Wire, Chassis Ground, Engine Block Ground to improve audio performance.


What type of Battery Terminals to use for the wire
What type of cable/wire
What gauge do you suggest
What points would you recommend to upgrade

Looking for a distributor that would sell terminals that are worth while, I see many cheap terminals and some which are extremely expensive to connect the wires to a battery, most seem to be a rip off where people buy for the hype.

From my few years in wiring homes, I know of gauges for wiring, curious though as I see some recommending 2 gauge/ 0 gauge for these grounding points. The wire is extremely stiff and was wondering what you recommend.

Also, would ask for any suggestions on antennas for a Nissan to replace the long antennas, it was a fixed antenna non powered and would like something small, less of an eyesore.

Any help and information is appreciated and do you suggest any forums for car audio that you frequently visit or read for information?

Broadfield

I use IXOS for my really nice wiring/connector product and also some Stinger product. There is a HUGE difference quality of wire. Most of the car audio power cable out there is not solid copper. And anything that is cheap in price probably uses the Chinese system for rating the gauge. I have some 4 gauge Walmart/Ebay brand power wire at the shop that is smaller than my IXOS 8 gauge wire I sell. Even IXOS's GT series power cable is twice the weight of their lower line power wire... same length, same gauge, same strand count. One is solid copper and one is copper clad. So for that very reason the XIOS 100 series 4 gauge for example will support 650 watts. While their 400 series 4 gauge will support 1400 watts... there's that big of a difference. I would hate to even guess what the Ebay 4 gauge will support

As for the wire being flexible are you talking about home wire? Because you absolutely cannot use AC power wire for 12 volts. For what it's worth my IXOS 4 gauge you can take and wrap around your pinky.

So you will want to upgrade the power cable from your alternator to the battery. Gauge will depend on what gauge you are running from the battery to the amplifier(s). If you are running 1/0 gauge to the amplifier(s) then you obviously want to run at least that big from the alternator to the battery. Same with ground... upgrade the battery ground to the chassis and block ground to the chassis.

As for the antenna, any length other than the standard 32"(which is 1/4 of a wavelength) will decrease reception.

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killer skittle

How has the SEM paint/dye you used on interior pieces help up? How long have you used it? I would LOVE to redo my dash, center, and door panels with that stuff. Just think a year or two in the sun and it would be worse off than it is now. Do you just use wax/grease remover then spray a coat on?

chiboy002

hey toby
i'll give you a call tomorrow to go over some stuff if thats ok but for now, and i'll prolly forget this post ever posted lol, but

what do you use for the 200mL applicator gun for the 3M seam sealer?
i derped a little bit and forgot i needed an applicator gun before i bought it, and its like 200 god damn dollars. Any recommendations on something cheaper? This is probably the only time i'll ever use it, so don't want to drop that much on it.

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