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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-01-2020, 02:06 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Posts: 97
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White bunny Clutch not fully disengaging
I?m a bit lost here, I?ve searched and tried many things to try and solve this problem but no luck.
Ok, so I recently completed a 5 speed swap on my car. I purchased a white bunny clutch kit from enjuku. Also got brand new clutch master and slave cylinder as well as a braided clutch line. When installing the clutch I used the alignment tool, torqued everything down to spec, etc. I bench bled the master, and then bled again from the slave. Everything seemed fine until I took it on a test drive; the clutch itself engages almost at the firewall and slips anywhere after 3000 rpm, to me it felt like it wasn?t fully disengaging/grabbing. Next I adjusted the clutch pedal to factory specs with the proper amount of play as well. After this I couldn?t get into gear at all while the car is running. The only way I can get into gear is with the clutch pedal fully extended about an inch or so above the brake pedal. So I went to check the slave and make sure the clutch fork was engaging properly. I removed the clutch fork dust boot and it sits fine on the pivot ball, and looks to be pressing against the pressure plate just fine. Next I removed the clutch slave, and upon removal I couldn?t get it mounted back on. In order for it to mount to the holes on the trans, it would be applying pressure to the clutch fork (disengaging the clutch) about an inch. Has anyone had this problem or know a way I can fix it? I shortened the pushrod coming out of the slave to allow me to mount it with the clutch fork at full rest, this only resulted in me not being able to go in gear again, so I put the regular push rod back in which is engaging the clutch fork at full rest.. |
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