GhostlyCoupe

After completing a SR20DET swap into my S13 I decided to compile a list of information that's not always found in swap guides while it was still fresh in my mind. This will include information about the things I couldn't readily find in the swap guides or issues I ran into that aren't often mentioned.

I will continue to add more information as necessary and as I remember it. Please feel free to ask questions about part numbers, how to fix an issue, or just leave a comment.

The guide is divided into sections for easy reference:

1. The "dreamers section" (Contains answers to questions for people wanting to do the swap)
2. The "The upgrading your SR20DET section" (Contains information about questions regarding upgrades and limits)
3. The "something went wrong section" (Contains solutions to problems that crop up with a swap)
4. The "part numbers section" (Contains part numbers for things you may need)
5. The "parts interchange section" (Contains information about parts you can use from other Nissan models)

------------------The dreamers section---------------------

This section focuses on questions commonly asked before doing the swap.

Why choose the SR20DET?

Main reason: Ease of installation. Since this engine was originally installed on JDM market S13's the swap is straightforward with all the parts you need available as OEM parts. Aftermarket support for the SR is widely available as well.

Is the swap legal?

Laws regarding engine swaps vary greatly from state to state and sometimes even county to county. The legality of whether you can use a car with an SR20DET on public roads in your particular area is something you will have to research for yourself. That said, most people are able to do the swap and drive the car without any problems. This does not mean it is legal and this does not mean you are exempt from federal law or local laws that may apply.

How much should I expect to pay for an SR20DET

As of the writing of this guide, SR20DET Red and Black top Motorsets typically sell for around $2000-$2500 including ignitor, ecu, etc and SHIPPING.

How much will it cost to actually install?

People often underestimate the cost associated with this swap such as fluids, rubber parts, nuts bolts and things such as intercoolers (if your swap did not include one). A good estimate to do the swap properly and replace wear items is to have at least $4000. People have done it for less but this is a ballpark that includes replacing everything you should and not doing a half-arsed install. Cost will also vary depending on if you farm out things like the wiring harness to someone else.

Can I do the swap myself?

Home mechanics with moderate knowledge should be able to accomplish the swap. There is zero fabrication required and is more or less common sense. The swap can be completed using a small selection of tools in a home garage.

What is the difference between the different SR20DET engines?
(section to be expanded)

S13 Redtop - T25 Turbo. May not have fins on front of the head . These are the earlist SR20DET's available in the S13 chassis. While there are no inherent downsides to picking this motor the fact is they are getting harder and harder to find in good condition. Supply of these engines has slowed to a trickle.

S13 Blacktop - T25 Turbo. Always has fins on the front of the head - These are the later engines used all the way into late production of the 180SX. For all intents and purposes these are equal to the Redtop. However, these engines are a few years newer and are easier to find in good condition.

S14 Blacktop - Upgraded T28 Turbo. Has a valve cover with a notch for the VTC system. These engines were used in the S14 Silvia and included upgrades such as a bigger turbo and variable cam timing. This resulted in a horsepower increase over the S13 SR engines.

Can I keep air conditioning in my SR20DET swap?

Yes provided your car is 1991 or newer (There are no kits to make SOHC compressors work as of the date of writing). Thanks to our forum member CodyAce who sells kits to bolt up your existing S13 or S14 KA compressor to any SR engine.

What do I actually need to complete the swap?

For the sake of simplicity try to get as complete a swap as you can. Here is a list of what are considered the "must have" items:

Motor
Accessories (Alt, PS pump, etc)
Transmission (especially if doing an auto -> manual swap)
ECU
Uncut wiring harness
Ignitor (MAKE SURE YOU GET THIS many importers are leaving these out in order to gouge customers for another $100)
CAS (crank angle sensor)
MAF (MAKE SURE YOU GET THIS many importers are leaving these out in order to gouge customers for another $50 - $100)
Intercooler (Choose either stock SMIC from a 180sx/Silvia or an aftermarket it)



----------------The upgrading your SR20DET section--------------------


How much horsepower can a stock SR20DET make?

The stock engine is actually quite robust. There's no reason you can't make 300rwhp without cracking the engine open. The maximum power you can get is highly dependent on your tune but there are documented cases of 400hp on stock bottom ends which is about the upper limit.

What are the limits of the stock side-mount intercooler? Are there any upgrades?

The safe range for the stock SMIC is generally agreed to be stock boost which contrary to popular belief is 10-11PSI (Nissan installed a wastegate bleed that raises boost pressure but many people fail to install these)

There are upgrades available that are bolt-ons and direct replacements for the side mount:

S15 Intercooler
Blitz
ARC


----------------The something went wrong section--------------------

Information about issues that may or may not arise during installation.

Air Conditioning: (DOHC S13 Only, SOHC cars require total custom lines)

1) Factory drier assembly interferes with SR20DET OEM Fan Shroud
Solution: Unbolt from frame and bend lines to move toward rear of car
2) Charge port interferes with Turbocharger intake piping
Solution A: Bend line outwards and downwards to make port clear intake piping
Solution B: Custom AC Line
3) Factory low pressure hose rubs turbocharger.
Solution: Bend piping upwards and outwards to clear
4) Factory condenser fan will not fit SR20DET fan shroud
Solution: Aftermarket electric fan installed in front of condenser or behind radiator

Engine:

1) Turbocharger elbow interferes with steering shaft during installation
Solution A: Install manifold and turbocharger after engine is bolted in
Solution B: Unbolt steering shaft and install engine
2) Heater hoses (OEM) cannot be used
Solution A: Cut off upper copper pipe to be even with the OEM pipe below it. Use NAPA Part Number 11055 and 10951 to connect to LHD heater core.
Solution B: Use pre-made hose kits available from performance shops
3) OEM side mount intercooler has no openings for piping.
Solution: Cut pre-stamped area on drivers side where OEM resonator was located

Transmission:

1) KA24 driveshaft will not fully seat into SR20DET transmission
Solution A: Remove black collar from rear of SR20DET transmission
Solution B: Use SR20DET driveshaft

Interior:

1) SR20DET ECU will not bolt to kick panel area
Solution: Source LHD ECU Bracket

---------------Part Numbers------------------------
(and manufacturer) for commonly needed items you can find at local parts stores:

Radiator Hose Upper: GATES 20776
Radiator Hose Lower: GATES 21921
Belt Power Steering AND AC:GATES K040345
Belt Alternator: GATES K05470
Downpipe Gasket: Mr. Gasket 1204
Catalytic Converter Gasket: ROL E624684
Coolant Temperature Sender:Beck/Arnley 1580134
Exhaust Manifold Gasket: Fel-Pro MS96113
Fan Clutch (For SR OEM Fan):Hayden 2560

Part numbers for OEM parts you may need:

Oil Filter Adapter Block Gaskets: 15066-5E510
OEM Fan Shroud: 21476-52F00
Full Gasket Set: 10101-50F27
Cylinder Head Bolts: 11056-53J01
Head Bolt Washer: 11058-16A00
SR20DET Oil Filter: 15208-53J0A

Thread sizes for bolts and nuts you may need. Available at ACE hardware:

Nut, Exhaust Manifold: M10 x 1.25
Nut, Turbo Elbow to Downpipe: M10 x 1.25
Nut. Manifold to Turbo: M8 x 1.25 (Highly recommend STOVER type lock nuts)
Oil Pan Drain Plug: M12 x 1.25
O2 Sensor Plug: M18 x 1.5
Water Pump Stud: M6 x 1.0
Exhaust Manifold Stud: M10 x 1.25




---------------Parts Interchange Section -----------------
This section contains known parts that can be used from other Nissan models.

(Original credit for this list goes to DoriMonster 's SR20DET FAQ)

Motor Oil Seals: Identical to Sentra SE-R SR20DE (P/N front: 15020-79E00 /rear: 12279-1N510)
· Water pump is a JDM item. The FWD SR20DE is not compatible. You can order pumps at various vendors. Courtesy Nissan should be your first stop to buying one
· The timing chain kit is identical to the FWD SR20DE.
· The Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is a RWD SR20DET item only.
· Water temperature sensors for both ECU and dash cluster are identical to KA24DE. Make sure to get the same sensor as your year chassis
· Knock sensor is identical to KA24DE, although the sub-harness is SR specific
· Motor mounts are identical between KA24E, KA24DE and RWD SR20DET
· Motor mount brackets are a RWD SR20DET item only.
· Fuel injectors are identical to NA 300ZX (Z32)
· Fuel Pressure Regulator is a RWD SR20DET item only
· Alternator Belt P/N K050370 (Gates P/N)
· Power Steering Belt P/N K040345 (Gates P/N)
· Exhaust Manifold Gasket '91 Sentra SE-R w/SR20DE
· T25 Turbo gaskets '90-'95 300ZX TT T25 gaskets (note turbo to O2 housing gasket dose not fit on S13 T25)
· O2 sensor '87 300ZX Turbo
· Ignitor chip '95 Q45
· Fuel Injectors '95 300ZX TT (purple plugs)
· Fuel Injector Seals '95 300ZXTT kit
· MAF '89-'90 SOHC 240SX
· Tranny rear main seal '93 240sx
· Slave cylinder '93 240sx
· T.O. bearing '93 240sx
· Pilot bearing '93 240sx
· Clutch 89 Nissan Maxima 240mm 9-7/16" spline 24x1
· Belts (PS, AC, alt) Gates K050370 Alt. K040345 PS & AC
· Spark Plugs NGK BKR7ES11 or BKR6 (hoter plug)
· Coil Packs '90-'95 300ZX or '95 newer Maxima
· S14 SR Oil Filter '95 Sentra SE-R
· S13 SR Oil Filter '91 Sentra SE-R
· Fuel filter '90 300zx TT
· Front and Rear main seal '91 SE-R
· TPS '95 KA TPS will work with some soldering
· Temp sensor S13 or S14 (depending on chassis not motor) KA24DE temp sensor
· Thermostat '91 Sentra SE-R
· Radiator cap '90 300zx TT (slightly more pressure for better cooling over stock cap)
· Knock sensor '95 240sx
· Oil pressure sender '95 240sx

jbretz

nice info. im not sure if your install went alittle differently then mine but i was able to keep my turbo/elbow/manifold on during the install. but great info for all the diy'ers out there

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ryandriftingfat

^^^^ truth.

I've done 4 swaps myself and have never installed the motor without the turbine / manifold / elbow attached. As far as problems go, it's like a 1 on a scale of 1-10. If you're using parts that place the elbow / downpipe in the OEM location, you shouldn't have any issue.

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Edwin562

Great job on providing alot of useful info all in 1 thread. Might need more but this could asnwer alot of noobish questions.

freeagent3117

I used the tranny collar, just trimmed it a little shorter....

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joeboo1

good writeup. part numbers are always good to have. i never had any problems with the turbo elbow and the steering shaft though

GhostlyCoupe

Did some updating and added some new info. PLEASE feel free to ask questions or suggest what else needs to be added.

My goal is to have one giant FAQ with all the info ever needed.

va240dude

Very nice, thanks for your work putting it together in a neatly fashion.

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DaveAZ

Nice synopsis. PM sent on some personal notes I found the hard way.

AsleepAltima

is the oxygen sensor from the 87 300z a fat or skinny sensor?

Perez04

Lots of good info. Thanks

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13 G37
90 240sx

VinceDude

Awesome thread thank you sir!

jamg

really good thread, thanks.

blue rexsti

Check the alternator belts. The parts numbers written for them are different. In one line you put "k050370" and on the other line you put "k05470"

norcaldriftin

So the sr20det maf is the same as a 95 240sx? Ka?

towlie

Sr20 MAF is same as Ka-e

norcaldriftin

Ok I see but the coilpack part can't be true??

jamg

what about the S14 SR20DET MAF?

AutechKouki

Same as ka24e. Just different pin out and plug.

Side note: I think you're off on pricing, $4000 is a stretch. I'm working on a budget swap right now and it's at about half of that. Redtop engine (includes all accessories, igniter, trans, harness, downpipe and ecu) for $1500, walbro $80, oem sr rad for $50, jgs engine/trans mounts for $150, front, rear and valve cover seals $45, NGK spark plugs $10, oem s13 sidemount with piping and stock bov $50, xtd stage 3 clutch $115 plus $15 flywheel resurface. $2100 estimate and running. But this is hoping headgasket will be fine and in most cases it is
I'll do the easy engine harness wiring myself and use sohc maf.
If starter fails I'll use motor and solenoid off the hitachi KA starter, if alternator fails I'll use KA alternator and drill out top hole, only real bitch to get is the water pump since that is a jdm only part.

Gil2.0t

OEM length would be helpful on the exhaust manifold stud size. All thats written is 10x1.25.

Jonjon510

What would be a good solution for the oil return line into the oil pan. I just bought a s14 with sr20 black top and the oil return line is rubbing on the steering box knuckle? I figure I can jus fin a different hose that bends away from it. I don't really have funds to go steel braided.. Any suggestion for a sr20 noob..

fliprayzin240sx

You talking about the hardline? Take a wrench and bend it away.

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Jonjon510

It's not a hard line it's a basic rubber line. Should it be a hard line. Cause I'm finding stuff on this car that's shouldn't have been done they way it is so I'm going thru the whole motor that way I don't run into problems when driving the car

vJilly

This is great dude! Thanks!

ultimateirving

Ok so under the turbo is a little har elbow, that points towards the block. Then on the block side should be a small tube the same diameter pointing up towards the turbo, The rubber hose goes between them.

You may bend the elbow off the turbo as long as you dont kink it.

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Jonjon510

That's exactly what I'm talking bout. Thanks for the input bro. I'm going to try that and aswell get some kind of sheath to protect it aswell..

Mikester

If you look here , the T25 and T28 drain tubes are different. If the blacktop you are referring to is an S13 blacktop with a T25, that could be the problem.

Other than that, yea bend it carefully & maybe use a different length of hose & you should be golden.

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Jonjon510

I talked to a guy from Frsport. He recommended that aswell. And yea it's a s13 blacktop with t25

Diehardsr20

Just thought I'd throw this in there. Pulled a Coolant Temp Sensor (and connector pigtails, they are different shaped, but still just 2 wires) from a 02 xterra with a vg33de (3.3L V6) for laughs (also intermittent cts code). It bolts right in to redtop sr20det and my 62 ecu seems to have no problem with it.. I Dont have the part number however. Been running like that for a couple weeks now. No more intermittent cts fault code. Chassis is a 93 240sx

240koukiSX

Wait wait wait... I have a 1990 S13 coupe and I just bought an a.c. system off another S13, so does this mean I won't be able to install it? Other than the custom lines?