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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-02-2006, 05:35 PM | #1 |
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V8 240sx FAQ
Ok guys and gals. Post up any questions you have regarding a v8 motor swap into a 240sx,
Weights: KA with Auto, Cat and accessories = 596 lbs. LS1 w/ T56, headers, and accessories = 468 lbs That's right folks. The iron block four cylinder is 128 pounds heavier than the aluminum LS1! LT1: 300hp Iron block, aluminum head. Ls1: 350hp/350tq All aluminum Ls6: Corvette Zo6 engines. 2001 year ls6 385hp/tq Ls6: Corvette Z06 engines. 2002 and up = 405hp/tq Ls2: C6 corvette/Gto engine. 400hp/400tq Big difference in low end. Ls7: C6 zo6 corvette engine. 500hp/tq dry sump oil system. Trannys. all L series motors can use the following. T5 5 speed. (lighest of the bunch.) Only good to about 400hp. T56 6 speed. Viper tranny. enough said. ls1, and lt1 t56 are different. 4l60e automatic. ehh. ECU. All Lsx ecu modules are basically a stand alone, once you get the tuning software. ls1 edit, hp tuners, etc. all this and it gets 30mpg on the fwy btw ftw imho lol Anyways. There is a ton of aftermarket parts for these motors, they are also easy to work on. They also make a crap load of power. They are also really responsive to mods. Check it out. a stock 2002 ls1 makes 350hp/350tq at the flywheel. My motor only has: Mild cam (thunder racing 224/224) Comp cams dual valve springs. Required for any cam swap. Comp racing titainium retainers. Recomended for high rpm shit. Crom-moly pushrods. Recomended if using a big cam or high hp. March underdrive (dampened) crank pulley 160 deg t stat (needed) JTR Headers Reflashed ecu Aluminum belt tensioner Aluminum ps pulley Hinson cold air intake Shock Drifting 3" exhaust With only these minor mods the motor made. 444hp at the crank. and 444tq at the crank. On the dyno i had over 320 rwtq at 2000rpm and that peaked to 388 rwtq around 6000rpm. The power was also impressive. 212 rwhp at 1800 rpm. and 388 rwhp at 7200rpm. Heres some pics. Fresh off of craigs list. Thats a shitload of aluminum The intake manifolds are plastic for smoother runners, and virtually no heat transfer and heat soaking. The cam is easy as hell to change. T56 is about the size of a z32 tranny. 6 speeds. Uses atf instead of gear oil. hmm. Headers. The ls1 oiling system isnt the greatest for oil pickup. i reccomend a accusump oil system. 2 of the new valve springs, and ti retainers installed. LS1 Into S14. as you can see it sits lower then the ka, an just as far back. Tranny has same location.
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Last edited by blu808; 04-03-2006 at 12:55 AM.. |
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04-03-2006, 08:54 AM | #2 |
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hey Luke... I hope these questions can be answered? Thank you!
1. Is there a possibility to list out vendors who produce swap kits for the 240SX crowd? (Other than the sponsor you have for the 7) 2. Also, some estimated swap costs information and breakdown will be appreciated! 3. For the rusty 240SX, what types of chassis strengthening modifications need to be done in order to handle the new power (well, the torque especially)?
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04-03-2006, 08:58 AM | #3 |
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What does a drivetrain/wiring/ect setup cost?
How much did you spend after all the mods? What did you do for oil pan and engine mounts? Any modifications to the frame/firewall? |
04-03-2006, 10:24 AM | #4 | |
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04-03-2006, 03:23 PM | #8 |
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S13 kit will be availible by the end of the week.
S14 is allready availible. Headers: $985 for both Stainless 1 3/4" long tubes into 3" collectors. S13/S14 complete mounting kit $1122.32 about a week turn around. Includes corvette engine mounts. Deduct $160 ifr they allready have vette mounts. S13/S14 complete weld yourself kit is $80 less. Steel drive shaft $275 Aluminum $420 This is for the Hinson supercars complete kit. Other then that there is no kit on the market for a lsx into a 240sx. haveblue: You can find ls1/t56 complete engine packages on ebay, and craigslist for around 3000-4500
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12-06-2008, 07:57 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
where are you located i want you to do my LS1 swap. |
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04-03-2006, 02:55 PM | #10 |
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Luke: How has your ls1 kit with the c6 iirc headers come along so far?
Because once I install and align my car I'm going to bug you so you can help me source and install everything.
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09-03-2006, 12:15 PM | #12 | |
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09-03-2006, 07:04 PM | #14 | |
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04-03-2006, 06:53 PM | #15 |
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S13Charlie -- Luke already listed prices for driveshafts, that would lead one to believe that the stock driveshaft won't work. I highly doubt a LS1 and T-56 is the EXACT same length as a KA and stock transmission. As far as the differential goes. Luke has been running a stock RX-7 rear end with a Weld Locd diff. I'm pretty sure it'd be about the same as the stock 240 rear.
g6civcx -- It is my understanding that it should only take around 5 wires to get the LS1 running in an S-Chassis. Everything after that is just figuring out wiring up you gauges and such. Luke, jump in here and fill in the details I've missed.
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04-03-2006, 07:01 PM | #16 | |
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I'm simplifying my body and engine harnesses as much as possible to prepare for this swap. Good that the S13's accessories are very loosely coupled from the ECU. I think the only thing that may not work is the instrument cluster, but that's no big deal. It is nice to have simple wiring so you can spend your time on other stuff. |
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04-03-2006, 07:02 PM | #17 |
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Questions:
Is there a "budget" engine that still weighs less than or equal to a KA? -How about a ford 5.0 302 or a 4.6liter V8? -How about a 5.7 Liter Chevy 350? Thanks..
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04-03-2006, 07:29 PM | #18 |
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The LS1 is all aluminum, that's why it weighs less. Not sure if they have an aluminum 4.6, 302, or basic 350. Id also stay away from carbuerators, personally. I have tuned a few four barrels before, and it can be great when tuned properly, but Fuel Injection is MUCH EASIER. The only down side to EFI is usually the wiring, which isn't a problem here.
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04-03-2006, 07:46 PM | #19 |
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The wiring is easier than a sr swap.
The ecu even has a fan relay wire that you can connect your fan to, and it switches it on and off for you. Other then that there is a rpm signal wire, speedo, temp, and even oil pressure leads coming out of the ecu. Super easy to hook up. As for hinsons site. The site should be up later this week said brian hinson today.
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04-03-2006, 08:08 PM | #20 | |
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04-04-2006, 02:33 PM | #25 | |
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leftyteck: i would reccomend upgraded axles. The diff should be able to hold just fine, but i would gusset the subframe, and do subframe solid bushings.
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04-04-2006, 05:41 PM | #27 |
They do make aluminum 5.3's they were put in the older SSR's. The T56 will bolt up to 4.8's, 5.3's, and 6.0's from 01 and up. The 6.0 is the cheapest option as the LS1 style heads bolt pattern and you get the big displacement. The iron block isn't always a bad thing it can handle a bunch of boost. A lot of F-body guys are putting 6.0 blocks in their cars.
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04-04-2006, 09:37 PM | #29 |
My question is how did you manage to set the motor in the engine bay with the oil pan being a rear sump and the rack belocated behind the cros member? is there enough clearence and do you think a 1st gen chevy would fit?
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04-04-2006, 09:45 PM | #30 |
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We use the Gto oil pan and pickup.
Clearance is fine. No issues. And as you can see there is room for a magnacharger with the ls1 sitting so low in the 240 chassis.
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