blu808

Badass as always Bill.

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Xracer

How come when i weld stainless it turns a dark grey color where the weld pool was? All of your guys's stuff is shiny or multi colored. I just did another 304 stainless exhaust and it is grey in at the weld line and the color change out from there.

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R34 NEO POWER

driftstyre

Sounds like too much heat. I try and get the most penetration with the absolute least heat. Depending on the piece, strength might not be paramount, so you don't need full penetration.

What pressure are you running on the gas? If you use a gas diffuser nozzle, it slows down the gas and creates less turbulence (made for aluminum, hence the "Alumina" name they have, but they work well for steel) I rarely have welded without them in the last 3 years except for very tight spots. You can use less gas pressure then, saving $ too. Also, post flow on stainless for 3-5 seconds so the end of your bead doesn't get contaminated.

blu808

Well said.

Also alot of people make the mistake of using rod or electrode that is too thick. That is what ends up making everything too hot. I use the smallest diameter rod and electrode.

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Xracer

The actual bead width is about 2mm how could it be too much heat? It was 18 gauge 304 stainless. I swear my welds look different than everybody else. What amperage range would you guys use for that? i was running about 55-60amps tops for that. The welds look very similar to the mild steel exhaust i posted on page 2 or 3.

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R34 NEO POWER

projekt_s13

Those rims remind me of FN's

Love your work guys, wish i could weld. Im gonna take some welding classes next semester.

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blu808

What filler rod are you using?

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Xracer

I don't use filler rod for the tube sections. But for the flanges and hangers i used a 308 filler rod.

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R34 NEO POWER

sillyvia13

I used a bit of filler on this piece...
you like it...


and my new turbo...to my specs... looking to make a engine blow up! I mean make 7,000hp. my skillz are getting better...I may start a business!

projekt_s13

hahah nice

I bet my welds are gonna look worse.

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Xracer

Wow Got Gas?

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R34 NEO POWER

sillyvia13

cause thats hits on FIRE!

I was roaming around and found a WROST FAB THREAD , and seen these/...had TO!

lol...looks like bird shit from above fell into place.

luisgonz

I think that piece of metal has some kind of metal rash problem.

steve_o1989

Hahaha I love it. I think that the extra 1000hp those turbo fins add will balance out the fact that well..that the balance is now non existent.

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1997 240sx SE
1998 Frontier SE
1990 240sx Coupe - Sold
1992 Talon Tsi - Sold

Chrischeezer

if that turbo spools... i think the world will explode

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fakts13

are you back purging? if you are getting 100% penetration and not back purging, you might be getting contamination from the back of the weld. usually for fusion welding 18 gauge, i use about 45 amps and move quick to keep from getting 100% penetration (mostly on stuff after the turbo or headers where strength is not too important).

IIIXziuR

Hey Welding Masters & Experts:

What would a good beginner MIG welder be? (112v)

Basically, I am just looking for something to get some practice with and build up decent skill/understanding. Eventually, I would like to do light rust repair work on body panels and possibly do some stitch welding on the chassis (if possible).

Any recommendations are helpful and your help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks

GSXRJJordan

<=== Not an expert, by any means, but I've watched a lot of them work over the years. I just started actually practicing with a little Lincoln 120V that I rented from Home Depot - in my area, it was $40 (+ about $9 for a spool of wire) for a 24hr rental... that was plenty of time for me to play around with laying some beads on 1/8" bar stock, and seam weld my S14 chassis.

About seam welding, I got some great advice from this thread... I used a 'fine' wire wheel and some 100grit sandpaper (for corners) and took everything down to bare metal, then hit it with acetone, then used very low voltage to build up a small (probably 1/8") bead, and placed them every 2" or so along every seam I could get to. Biggest ones are the two tranny humps and the strut towers, but also did other places around the car. Then I cleaned it all, and sealed it up with some automotive primer. Thanks for all the inspiration/examples guys! I'll post pics within the next couple days for the Zilvia critique

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Jordan Innovations has a new web site!
www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

blu808

Sorry ive been lagging on the updates guys.

Here an m3 exhaust I welded today.

Came out great.





O yea I finished the fc. Early numbers are .

470 ft lbs of tq, to the wheels at only 5 psi.
380 hp.

STOCK engine. + turbo. With more tuning should hit 550 whp, 600 wht.











Viper brembos.



Cold air.



Money shot.



And back to more fab. If you didn't see the other thread.

Here is a camaro I made some parts for.

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ayuaddict

HOE LEE SHEET.

i believe that caps were quite appropriate in this situation.

driftstyre

damn, that camaro is so badass. Nice M3 exhaust too!

Ghostdrifter

Hey what size of mild steel tubing to you guys thinks I should use to make a fender brace. Also if i make intercooler pipeing out of aluminum how thick should it be?

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GSXRJJordan

Most of the fender braces I see made are 1" square tubing with 1/8" brackets welded on. They're pretty simple to fab, only a couple angles.

As far as intercooler piping, I've never done aluminum because it's so much harder to find someone to weld aluminum for free I'd imagine it's not an exact science, just find a good deal on some piping that's the correct diameter (either 2", 2.5" or 3", depending on your setup).

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Jordan Innovations has a new web site!
www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

melna8

Hey what's up guys, new here to the forum and im not sure if this i the right spot to post this, so before I get some search response remember im new to this forum and have done some searching.

GSXRJJordan

Lots of guys 'gut' their stock metal hoods. You just should use hood pins when you do, to help keep the hood off your windshield.

As far as cutting in to "help airflow", think on this: most companies that make hoods don't even know exactly where to put vents for proper airflow. There are just too many variables. You can try to vent the stock hood, but you should really have some ducting to help the air flow into (or out of) the vent from the engine bay. Most of the time, you're better off just making sure you're using a good fan with a shroud on a good radiator that's been properly bled for the best cooling.

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Jordan Innovations has a new web site!
www.JordanInnovations.com -- All your favorite FD Pro Drifters love it, trust me -- www.JordanInnovations.com

blu808

I would just leave it and get the new engine running strong. The area that you have selected is still in the positive pressure zone on the frontal area of a 180sx. Unless you have some serious ducting with a nice schroud, then it would help with cooling.

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melna8

Great thanks for the info guys, I was only thinking of taking off the framing from underneath the hood because some parts are broken off so instead of just welding them back on i was just going to cut them off and save some weight(5lbs?) and get some hood pins,as far as the ducts i might not do them,and go with a good radiator and some nice fans, what would you guys suggest? affordable yet great? I know you get what you pay for so nothings wrong with throwing some expensive names out, I know some people have gone with Altima fans and a koyo radiator but what would be some other options? sorry don't mean to throw this thread off topic

drftwerks

luke, someone said they saw a fc that color, in your old neighborhood, is some one driving it around?

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blu808

I was driving it around.

Prob hanging out at my friend erics house.

Why? what they say?

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sillyvia13

said someone saw a fc that color driving around I bet!
its posted right above you post! lol..