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Old 06-29-2009, 02:35 AM   #1921
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lol. that is funny.

It has a diferent fuel cell now. With a 2 pump system and a surge tank. ANy idea on where all the diff bolts went?
lol I thought I gave you those. I'll check for em again.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:18 AM   #1922
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^^^ Sick truck setup, and absolutely badass welds. I dig it. I don't think the holes are going to matter, the truck's not heavy enough to bend even that 1/4" plate.
i wasnt worried about the strength before and after the holes....i was more or less thinking about the looks.
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:05 AM   #1923
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starting an exo-cage hopefully it will be done by friday

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Old 07-02-2009, 11:52 PM   #1924
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Nothing big. I made a simple holder for my paint guns that way it makes my life a little bit easier when I have to put in the primer, paint etc. in the gun. I got the material free so it was no biggie.

I used flux core so grinded down the splatter and fat welds because I'm using .030 wire and that seems pretty thick for my thin material. w/e it got the job done













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Old 07-03-2009, 01:45 AM   #1925
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some of my cage



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Old 07-03-2009, 07:46 AM   #1926
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Well this is my first post and I figured this would be a good thread to get started. There is some awesome fabrication going on here!!!!

Here are a few pics of parts I've built recently.

External wastegate on o2 housing


DSM T3 manifold


Evo forward facing manifold



mounted




I'll see if I can dig up more if anyone is interested
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Old 07-03-2009, 11:58 PM   #1927
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what size gas lense and cup are you using? how long is your post flow?welds look good
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:16 AM   #1928
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thought you guys might be interested in this one,
this is a space frame im in the middle of fabricating for a customer,
its a off road buggy, or dune buggy, theres a 1.3
corolla engine going into it, but the customer is
putting a glanza turbo engine in in the future.
its a full custom mandrell bent frame, made from
1 7/8th tubing, and 1 1/2 tubing. on this one im
only doing the frame, and all suspension mounting
the engine and fab work, should be a prety
cool little machine.



















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Old 07-04-2009, 12:51 PM   #1929
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Looks good man, going to be really fun. Are my eyes messing with me in this picture?
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Old 07-05-2009, 08:29 AM   #1930
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maybe? i dont know, what are ya seeing?
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:56 AM   #1931
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hey guys, i primarily lurk in this thread and i've finally got some funds to get a welder. i found a good deal locally for a lincoln weld-pak 100. I'm a beginner and have never welded but want to learn. From research, this looks like a great welder to learn on. it's marketed as a flux core/MIG. any personal experience or any advice on whether or not this seems like a good starter welder?

thanks for any advice!
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:16 AM   #1932
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^^You can not go wrong with buying Lincoln. It will be fine with most auto related fab work.
If you can get a gas kit for it.
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Old 07-06-2009, 08:41 AM   #1933
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^^You can not go wrong with buying Lincoln. It will be fine with most auto related fab work.
If you can get a gas kit for it.
awesome, I value your opinion, i've seen alot of your work. yeah they sell gas kits but i already have a tank and regulator!

thanks for your input!
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:58 AM   #1934
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awesome, I value your opinion, i've seen alot of your work. yeah they sell gas kits but i already have a tank and regulator!

thanks for your input!
make sure your welder comes with a solenoid. mine didn't come with one. so I had to get one and put it on. since i already had the regulator tank and hoses.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:30 PM   #1935
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it works well
the only thing i dont like about it is the fact that its not really powerful enough to do cages easily, i mean it will do cages but barely
works great for anything else though
one day i will upgrade but its definately a good starter
the guide for settings it comes with is pretty accurate too
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:09 PM   #1936
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Looks good man, going to be really fun. Are my eyes messing with me in this picture?

the front end looks like its not completely straight with the other bars on the floor
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Old 07-06-2009, 01:11 PM   #1937
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it works well
the only thing i dont like about it is the fact that its not really powerful enough to do cages easily, i mean it will do cages but barely
works great for anything else though
one day i will upgrade but its definately a good starter
the guide for settings it comes with is pretty accurate too

do not try to do cages with that welder it will not penetrate the wall of the tubing. if you like i can prove it
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:01 PM   #1938
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Quote:
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the front end looks like its not completely straight with the other bars on the floor
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do not try to do cages with that welder it will not penetrate the wall of the tubing. if you like i can prove it
Agreed on both counts. On the buggy, it might just be the angle though.

Although the Lincoln 110V welder says it'll do 1/8", and most roll cage tubing is .090" or .120", a lot of stuff I've seen shows that you just can't get the penetration - whether that's from duty cycle (the small 110V stuff has a duty cycle of like 20%, can't go laying a continuous bead around 1.5" tubing and expect penetration all the way through to the end), or bar placement at the joints. In any case, it's fine for everything else (seam welding, brackets, exhaust piping, etc).
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Old 07-06-2009, 02:53 PM   #1939
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Quote:
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do not try to do cages with that welder it will not penetrate the wall of the tubing. if you like i can prove it
i need no proof
ive tried it and i know it doesnt work
its great for exhaust piping and steel intercooler piping though
and stitch welding our tin can cars
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:46 AM   #1940
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the front end looks like its not completely straight with the other bars on the floor

ahh now i see it, no it is square, it must just be the pic, i squared all the tubes, and she sits level, just a funny angle.
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Old 07-07-2009, 02:47 AM   #1941
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just small update, finished the rear shock turrets
made them out of 1 1/2 tube, and just triangulated
them back to the main frame. there very strong and
should hold up well in a roll.











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Old 07-07-2009, 03:04 AM   #1942
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love the work
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:23 AM   #1943
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love the work
I have seen your car's fab on nissanroadracing.com; you do have some good fabs. that could post up here.
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Old 07-07-2009, 11:42 AM   #1944
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just small update, finished the rear shock turrets
made them out of 1 1/2 tube, and just triangulated
them back to the main frame. there very strong and
should hold up well in a roll.
are you using ERW or DOM? Welds look great
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:21 PM   #1945
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hey everyone, thanks for all of the helpful information! i'm getting it today, this welder is perfect for me.
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Old 07-07-2009, 12:50 PM   #1946
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thanks, some of it is CREW, and some DOM. the guy im building it for just wants it for leisure so he doesnt want to get the wallet out for CDS seamless or even DOM throughout.
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Old 07-07-2009, 06:21 PM   #1947
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thanks, some of it is CREW, and some DOM. the guy im building it for just wants it for leisure so he doesnt want to get the wallet out for CDS seamless or even DOM throughout.

What are all these Acronymns?
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Old 07-07-2009, 08:12 PM   #1948
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DOM is drawn over mandrel quick google reveals CDS = cold drawn seamless, CREW = colded rolled electric welded
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:19 AM   #1949
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its basically just different processes in which metal tube is made, and each have different properties for certain jobs. CREW would be your industry standard metal tube. used in construction, metal works, etc. its basicaly long metal strips of a required size, drawn through a die to round and the butt welded at the seam. DOM is CREW drawn over a mandrel or die, its cold drawn, and makes the wall uniform thickness and is tougher than CREW,. CDS, is a completely different process in which a large billet of solid steel is heated and pierced through the center and then drawn over mandrel, even though DOM may sometimes look seamless its not as it started out as CREW, CDS is true seamless tube. The cold-drawing process creates a uniform, precision product with substantially improved tolerances, surface finish and tensile strength, increased hardness and good machinability. In this process, the tube is cleaned and annealed, and one end of each length is squeezed to a point so it can be gripped by the drawing mechanism. The tube is then drawn through one or more dies and over mandrels. This reduces the diameter of the tube and thins its walls to the required dimensions in a controlled fashion to provide the qualities desired in the finished product. theres loads of more details and facts, but thats the basic rundown.
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:28 PM   #1950
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Here is a little something I am working on.
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