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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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08-14-2012, 11:09 AM | #31 |
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when i first crank from cold it idles around 1-1200k then slowly goes down to 600-650 while its warming up where it feels like its missing/stumbling a bit.. mind you that when i used seafoam that one night it ran perfect idle and everything, i couldn't even tell it was running to be honest lol.. it was such a smooth idle..
havent had a chance to do the ground check yet, just woke up lol.. going out there in a bit edit: i would love to borrow some1's maf if i knew someone with a ka around me.. everyone has sr,rb, or vq /w z32 maf's etc.. |
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08-14-2012, 01:45 PM | #32 |
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Well just got done testing all the ground under the hood and everything is perfect.. anywhere from 0.1~0.48ohm on the head, block, intake, exhaust, and random other spots i tested on connectors..
I'm so mind boggle this is ridiculous.. |
08-14-2012, 09:01 PM | #34 |
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so should i change the pressure regulator then /w a new o2 also? cause this problem was before i changed the pump.. i changed the pump thinking it was going bad.. :/
also i never hooked up a gauge.. you recommend any? and how? Thanks |
08-14-2012, 10:55 PM | #35 |
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Butch couple posts you said change the o2, and so i just ordered oem replacement for 15$ shipped from rockauto.com when it comes in we shall see
Even if it isn't the culprit its gotta have some hand in my gas problems it looks like original one lol.. |
08-16-2012, 01:12 PM | #36 |
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The factory fpr works with the factory pump. You need an aftermarket adjustable . You can rent a gauge from most any auto parts store. Follow the instructions included with it.
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08-16-2012, 02:20 PM | #37 |
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from my xperience i did a cupple of things.....
replaced my battery wich helped my low rpm range. in 5th gear around 1500 rpm my car would hesitate alot but now rpm is smoother when shifting under 2k...... it would also not go past 3k so i replace the maf and its all good now. clean the throtle body and since the egr has been disconneted check the vacuum lines that go to the egr |
08-19-2012, 08:54 AM | #38 |
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@s13zx - how many vaccum lines go to the egr? just at glance i can see one is plugged with a screw, (i was told it was blocked, but why it was left on i dont know..)..
@everyone - lil' update.. i got the o2 sensor in yesterday, installed it last night.. here is a picture (@bottom) of the old one.. (funny thing is i read never use a Bosch one cause they are shitty, well this one has to be the original one. It has a lil' Nissan emblem stamped on it, and it says Bosch on the opposite side lol..) and it seems to be running a lil better but still a lil rough idle, not going to say much on it until i drive it a few days ill see if it fixes anything.. Also i took off my cap/rotor this morning and snapped some pictures, i noticed the rotor had some burn mark or something in the middle, i hope you can see it from the first picture of it there.. i got a new cap/rotor kit on order already cause i don't like the way that looks.. also isn't there supposed to be some kinda seal between the cap and the distributor? Mine doesn't have a huge gap or anything but water/moisture could def get in it no problem.. Last edited by CraftHell; 08-19-2012 at 09:31 AM.. |
08-20-2012, 03:17 PM | #39 |
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Update: Day #3 car is driving better now with the new o2 sensor.. the hesitation is completely gone as far as i can tell.. but.. yea there's always a but :/ the idle is more distinctive now.. its smoother, but still has a shake here and there.. i still believe a injector is causing that portion..
Wish my trip meter worked :/ i could gauge gas mileage better.. |
08-21-2012, 01:05 AM | #40 |
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Good to hear its better. Start the car and pour a little Seafoam into the IACV vacuum hose on the air intake. Might help the idle some.
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08-21-2012, 02:29 AM | #42 |
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one quick question before i pass out lol..
I have already seafoamed my car 1/2 in the hose going from the brake booster.. and 1/2 in the tank.. it cleaned alot i presume alotta smoke.. the hose going from the brake booster.. where does the other end of it go into? and this would be the same hose would it on the IACV ? |
08-21-2012, 03:22 AM | #43 | |
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So you did the seafoam, did you change your oil after? Its always a good idea as that stuff can thin your oil out a bit. Clean your fuel pump strainer to, I did that today and the random breakups I would feel under hard acceleration are completely gone.
And if I am on the same wavelength as Butcher the hose with the arrows is the one hes talking about.
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Need to adjust your idle? http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/395413...-pictures.html |
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08-21-2012, 08:23 AM | #44 |
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I had hesitation at 4500 RPM, never did figure it out with my engine. BUT, when I pulled the stock engine, I had low compression on no 1 and no 2 cylinder... so it balanced out rather well enough where it didn't seem like anything was seriously wrong. I have no idea how long I ran it like that.
Anyways, do a compression check.
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08-21-2012, 01:50 PM | #45 |
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thanks guys ill check it out if it ever stops raining.. also when i sea-foamed the first time i didnt pour any in my oil.. just 50/50 booster hose/gas tank
fuel pump strainer? would be the sock on the physical fuel pump ? if so it is brandnew not even a full month i believe.. the pump is as well.. wal255.. and the fuel filter is new as well.. |
08-21-2012, 08:04 PM | #46 |
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I use the VC breather hose on the Intake tube to introduce the Seafoam thru the throttle body. It seems that the brake booster hose would just feed one cylinder more than the rest. For the iacv valve I use it in the air supply end.
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08-21-2012, 11:53 PM | #47 | ||
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Quote:
As for the fuel pump your good to go then, assuming you have a new fuel filter (in engine bay).
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