bmaddock

This guide details a 1JZ-GTE VVTI swap into a 1993 Nissan 240SX (S13). I hope this thread inspires Zilvia members to do something similar and enjoy the experience. I chose 1JZ over 2JZ because they’re generally cheaper. I chose VVTI because I plan on keeping it relatively stock and the powerband is awesome. Full 280 ft-lb of torque at 2400RPM, half of which it takes for a non-VVTI. It also has higher compression, better cooling, factory single turbo, vtec yo, etc. If big power numbers are your goal, look at non-VVTI because they’re MAP based and will allow you to more easily add a larger single turbo on and make decent power even on stock tune.

Let’s also get price out of the way before we start. Average 1JZ VVTI + R154 costs around $3200 from what I’ve found, where most of the cost is from the R154. Without any discounts, deals, labor, fluids or shipping+tax, my whole swap cost around $7000 for a stock 1JZ VVTI with fresh gaskets, upgraded clutch/flywheel, prepared harness and quality parts. I cut very little corners in terms of quality parts so there’s definitely some room to cut it down but don’t expect this to cost what a basic SR swap does. At the bottom I’ll post my detailed parts list.


Research:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...de-For-Dummies
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...-to-with-pics*
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...ump-comparison
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/hy...-2jz-swap.html
http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/15...0-timing-belt/
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...-vvti-maf.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_JZ_engine
http://www.jdmenginesusa.com/

1JZ-GTE VVTI
R154 Transmission
KA aluminum radiator
Electric fans
Engine Refresh:

Cam seals
Valve Covers
VVTI cam gear rebuild
2JZ waterpump
Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner and idler
Front and rear main seals
Thermostat
PCV
Spark plugs
Radiator hoses

Drivetrain Refresh:

Front and rear trans seals
Slave cylinder
Throwout bearing
OEM pressure plate bolts
ARP flywheel bolts

Engine Mount Kit
Custom Driveshaft
Custom Wiring Harness
Upgraded Clutch
Lightweight flywheel
Extended Fuel lines

Common obstacles: fuel lines, shifter placement, heater lines, exhaust routing, cooling, sway bar interference and transmission choice.

Step 1: Remove the factory KA engine.

There are quite a few tutorials explaining this. I won’t go into horrendous details but start by de-pressurizing the fuel rail.
Then drain oil, coolant, power steering and trans fluid.
Disconnect exhaust at the turbo (KA-T) or manifold (NA), remove fuel line attachments, disconnect the radiator hoses, heater hoses, remove mechanical cooling fan or electric fans, and pull out the radiator.
Unbolt the engine mounts from below and remove power steering lines while you’re down there.
Also remove the driveshaft (make sure you drain all trans fluid first, try the speed sensor as that’s a good final drain).
Remove the clutch line.
Now begin removing the electrical harness and battery. Make sure you’ve removed the gas lines and make sure to keep the garage vented to prevent inhaling fumes. Once removed, you are near ready to remove the engine and transmission.
Attach your hoist to the engine. Before beginning to lift on the motorset, make sure the chains are tight and hop under the car to detach the transmission mount. Take care to remove the shifter assembly beforehand as it will drag along the trans tunnel on its way out if not removed and can bend the shift fork. You will now definitely need a second hand to help guide the removal. You’re in the clear now and it’s just a matter of taking your time to hoist the engine slowly out of the car and making sure you didn’t forget something.

Step 2: Pawn off your KA-T setup

Craigslist, Zilvia, Facebook groups, friends you don’t like or suckers you want to set up for failure… kidding I did love my KA-T, just feeding into the KA hate so many swear by.

Step 3: Clean the engine bay

You can go as crazy or half-ass as you want here. At the very least, pull out a power washer, some Simple Green and spray all of the crusted twenty year old road grime. Why start a project with a dirty canvas?
UPDATE(Nov 2017): Take your time and do this now! I’m currently removing my engine again now to tub the fenders and actually paint the bay lol.

Step 4: Go to Jspec and buy a 1JZ-GTE VVTI

Ask:

How many miles are on it?
What’s included?
Can you prove the compression of the engine?
Do you offer a warranty?

You want a front-sump oil pan found in most Chaser 1J’s. Be aware of which variant 1J you are purchasing. From my research, there is two major VVTI variants: JZX100/JZZ30 and JZX110. You want an early model 1JZ VVTI because they aren’t drive by wire. Avoid the models with ETCS-I, DBW is fine but can have a delayed feel. Most seem to prefer the direct feel of a mechanical linkage. DBW is awesome though, no IACV and if standalone you can map different pedal maps. Further explanation in the Appendix.

I went for the factory extended shifter found on Soarer R154’s, but you can just as easily purchase a W58 (weaker trans) or normal R154 and have the shifter extended rearward to fit with our chassis. There are a few other options such as the Nissan Z33 transmission or the all-powerful Getrag transmissions (V160), but both of these options typically cost a bit more. And regarding the shifter extension, you can purchase extended shifters from companies such as Freed Engineering.

UPDATE (November 2017): It seems over the short amount of time I’ve owned my swap that the CD009 has become far more popular. More adapter plates are available and for cheaper. Don’t overthink the transmission, choose one and go for it. CD009 may have a large upfront price with adapter plate, custom flywheel and new clutch but replacement and maintenance parts are far cheaper than R154 stuff. I have a feeling over the coming years we’ll see R154 prices continue to rise.

Also, make sure if you are buying a 1JZ VVTI that the importer has given you the MAF as the VVTI motors use both a MAF and a MAP sensor. Non-VVTI 1JZ use just a MAP. If they don’t offer it, you’re looking for a ‘95-’96 Lexus LS400 MAF as it’s a direct USDM replacement.

Step 5: Preventative Maintenance & Upgrades

Now that you have an empty engine bay, it might be a good time to do some maintenance and upgrades that are otherwise difficult to do with an engine in there. For example, a wire tuck, relocating relays and fuses, changing out power steering rack, adding a power steering cooler, prepping intercooler pipes, shaving fenderwells, tubbed fenders, relocated battery, and whatever else there is. After all of that a quick spray of the engine bay might look nice.

For the R154, the only part of the firewall/trans tunnel that needs to be massaged is near the starter. This will help you not have to pull the whole damn engine just to replace it in the event of it going. It will also help to bang out the area where the shifter goes as that can be a little tight depending on the mount kit.

Step 6: Install Motor Mount Kit, Sway Bar and other components in preparation for the swap.

I used the S13 Xcessive JZ swap kit. Replaces the Toyota JZ engine mount brackets so they work with your factory Nissan engine mounts and subframe. I also reinstalled everything I took out for paint.

FYI: The Xcessive Trans mount can only use one of the two R154 mount styles. I order Anchor Part #2410 off RockAuto for $6 and filled it with Window-weld instead of the $120 mount from Xcessive.

UPDATE(November 2017): Funny section to re-read, I ended up installing the Xcessive mounts later because the factory KA (even filled with windo-weld) sat the oil pan a little low.

Step 7:Address the Fuel Lines and extend them to the other side of the engine bay.

The fuel lines are simple but there are many ways of doing this. You can buy braided lines from a few manufacturers but I spent my time and did it with hard lines for a factory-style install. It’s pretty fun because you have a chance to choose your own routing. I would advise keeping the lines as far from the front of the vehicle or pinch spots as possible. In the event of a crash, you do not want your fuel lines to be compromised and have a leak.

UPDATE(November 2017): Again I’m redoing this even now. I extended the factory lines initially but am now starting from scratch and bending hardlines from the tank, across the rear subframe and up the driver’s side frame rail. Might sound daunting but trust me this is not difficult and will provide a cleaner and safer presentation.

Step 8: 1JZ-GTE Powertrain Overhaul[INDENT]Valve cover gaskets, cam seals, VVTI cam gear seal, downpipe gasket, front and rear main seals, transmission seals, shifter seals, oil pan gasket, a new water pump, spark plugs, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, timing belt pulley, accessory belt, vacuum lines, etc. No sense in having a leaky ‘new’ engine so I recommend nipping it in the butt now. I didn’t bother with the head gasket. There’s quite a few tricks around all of these maintenance jobs such as using a 1988 Isuzu Trooper (4ZEL) 2.6L 4 cyl motor timing belt (Gates T147) off of RockAuto because it’s dirt cheap and the same belt Toyota supplies. There are also many USDM MKIV 2JZ-GTE parts that are the same part numbers or upgrades.

Our friends at Club Lexus did a great job, check out the cross-reference list here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...ts-thread.html

Basic maintenance guide: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...k-service.html

I also upgraded the clutch and flywheel to a DriftMotion lightened flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts, new pressure plate bolts and a SPEC Stage 3 sprung six-puck. Something to note here is how to deal with a pull-type clutch (Nissan typically uses push-type where the throwout bearing rides on the pressure plate teeth.

To install this type of clutch interface, it is recommended to fasten the flywheel and pilot bearing accordingly but then slides the release bearing, pressure plate, and clutch disk on the transmission spline. In other words do not bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel just yet. Then attach the R154 to the JZ engine and remove the inspection plates on the lower sides of the transmission. You will now be able to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel without potentially damaging the fork and release bearing.

Note: release bearing assembly:

Further info: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/596-gu...he-7mgte-r154/

While you're there attach your Future Fabrication turbo elbow for an easy off-the-shelf part to tackle the issue of exhaust routing. More info down in the appendix.


Step 9 : Install the entire motor set

Time to find out if all your hardwork has paid off. Test fit and make sure everything has room. I'll be honest the Xcessive mounts 100% work but required some extra work. I would spend some time and bang out the trans tunnel some before installing. Although it does all fit, the extended shifter runs into the trans tunnel a bit and needs the shifter hole opened up some more towards the rear of the car.

Then I would begin to thread the nuts on the intake side engine mount, then halfway tighten the trans mount, and lastly pick up just the exhaust side and install the final mount. Sounds odd but trust me, it works. Once everything is halfway on, put a jack under the trans so that the jack is parallel with the frame rails and just barely picking the trans up. Do the same with the engine hoist to the engine. Ensure the car is completely secure and shake/push the engine back. The purpose of this is to settle the drivetrain into place so that there is no bind. In the end I had about a thumbs-width between the back of the valve cover and the firewall.

Step 10: Modify or install the one-piece driveshaft & Order Electric Fans

My measurements: 46.5"
From my experience, the shifter hole must also be clearanced to allow the extended shifter to sit back.

And don't worry about wheels being on the ground, that's from Shaftmasters.com and is accounting for other suspension configurations. Both the transmission and rear diff on a 240 are hard mounted and do not articulate with suspension travel.

I also waited to order electric fans because I wanted to verify clearance and figure out if the radiator support shroud needed to be cut in order to tilt the fans forward. With Xcessive mounts, stock S13 engine mounts and the 1JZ pushed as far back as possible I had just enough room to fit the Flexalite 420 fans and a thick aluminum radiator. If you have a chance, grind down that snout on the waterpump, it sits a little too close for comfort.

Step 11: Mechanical Connections

Connect the intercooler piping, radiator, cooling fans, radiator hoses, heater hoses, clutch line, and power steering. A/C not covered in this tutorial as I opted out of it, plenty of threads explaining their Frankenstein AC setups using Nissan and Toyota parts. Or just go to any hose supplier and they should be able to help you out with custom lines.

Intercooler coupler sizes:
J-pipe/Compressor Intake = 2.75"
Compressor Exhaust = 2.25"
Throttle Body = 2.75"

Toyota temperature gauge (single pin) thread pitch = M16-1.5
KA/SR radiator hose size = 34mm

Step 12: Electrical Connections

Wiring harness job. I did not want to spend my limited wrenching time connecting the two harnesses and chose to pay someone to wire my harness. Panic Wire offers great prices and fairly quick turnaround, give them a shot. You’ll also have a hard time finding companies willing to wire the VVTI engine mostly because of the late model drive-by-wire.
*UPDATE*- Wiring Specialties now does VVTI harnesses

Please be patient in this part of the build. You really should contact your wiring guy as soon as you buy the engine as lead time is usually a little longer for this part.

If you do wire it up yourself, here's a JZX100 pinout. Sorry for the cached link, seems like a lot of forums are dying off.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us

Or here is Soarer ECU pinout: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing

Here's my harness completed:

Step 13: Fluids

Fresh coolant, oil, power steering and trans fluid. I’ve read that only red Toyota coolant should only be used in the JZ motors. I’m running Dexron III ATF for power steering fluid, Rotella T6 5W-40W synthetic oil, and Redline MT-40 trans fluid.

Step 14: First Start-up

Look over your engine bay and talk yourself through starting your engine. Do you have all your grounds, filled all your fluids, primed your oil and fuel lines, and connected all of your drivetrain? Cross your fingers and go for it. Some people disconnect their intercooler pipes from the intake for first start to blow any crap that might have collected in their while doing the swap...not bad idea.

FYI: The firing order for the VVTi 1jzgte is 1-5-3-6-2-4

Exhaust work:



Step 15: “Break-in” Procedure

This isn’t a new motor but I would go easy and drive the car lightly around to make sure you’re not leaking like crazy, overheating, smoking, on fire, have good oil pressure and the AFR readings appear accurate. Break in a new clutch if you installed one. After that I wouldn’t wait too long before running the engine through its paces. If it’s going to break, it’s going to break and you might as well do it before you waste a day at the track.

04/06/2016: Appendix moved to Post #2. Added problems and troubleshooting section.

__________________

bmaddock

Motorset Mount Kit:
There are many aftermarket solutions available. General premise is the same for most swap mount kits. Remove Toyota factory mounts+brackets and install conversion brackets. Most kits should then use the KA/SR engine mounts and factory subframe. The transmission is even more straightforward, but be aware that some mounts only use one of the R154 transmission mounts. For the Xcessive kit, I ordered Part #2410 from Rockauto for $4 and filled it with window-weld instead of paying $120 for their poly mount. Buy two tubes of the 3M window weld and do your mount mounts while you're at it too. Make sure to degrease and clean them first!


Sway Bar Interference:
Stock sway bar will likely interfere with the JZ oil pan. Three basic solutions: sway bar spacers, Sikky sway bar, or removing front sway bar. Option 1 will cause the sway bar to scrape frequently. Option 2 is a great upgrade. Option 3 is half-ass, don’t do it. I measured before installing the Sikky sway bar and the distance between the stock sway bar and the radiator support is ~10". When upgrading it looked to be cut to ~8.5" if my memory is correct.

Heater Hoses:
The upper one crosses just behind the head. I routed that one on the bottom, then my harness, and they sit tucked between the coilpack cover and seem of the firewall nicely.


Radiator Hose Routing:
You can use your SR or KA upper radiator hose just fine. The lower hose you can use from a MKIV Supra. For an SR radiator, you will retain factory waterneck and just need to be able to reach the radiator port. I kept my KA radiator which requires a simple modification of the waterneck and cutting KA hose to length.

Transmission Choices:
I went for the factory extended shifter found on Soarer R154’s, but you can just as easily purchase a W58 (weaker trans) or normal R154 and have the shifter extended rearward to fit with our chassis. There are a few other options such as the Nissan Z33 transmission (CD009) or the all-powerful Getrag transmissions (V160), but both of these options typically cost a bit more. And regarding the shifter extension, you can purchase extended shifters from companies such as Freed Engineering.

The CD009 requires some further purchases. Make sure to check out Maverick Motorsports for bellhousing and adapter options. I've also read you need a 2JZ starter for this setup.

http://www.turbosupras.com/pages/pag...nical/R154.htm

UPDATE: I've since read further into the subject and found out about the Saturn Sky transmission (AR-5) and the Colorado transmission. Some further research is required but may be a cheaper/more viable option than R154.


Exhaust routing:
The JZ engines have the exhaust side facing the passenger side of the 240SX. To resolve this issue, most people seem to use the standard 1JZ downpipe and any 240SX catback. A midpipe is then fabricated to connect the two but requires dealing with the three bolt Toyota flange. The best bang for buck upgrade and way to deal with this is through Future Fabrication's turbo elbow. This replaces stock elbow and provides a dyno-proven 26whp/22ftlb bump on a completely stock setup. It's also comes with a vband to make fabbing the rest of the exhaust an easy task. I got this image off of their site and will verify soon with a follow-up video with Thatdudeinblue. The one on the left is Torque, both stock elbow and FF elbow (stock is lower line, FF is upper line) you can really see the gains everywhere here. The right graph is Horsepower, you can see the peak added and the same power extends longer.



Fuel Line Modification or Re-route:
A few choices here, similar to the exhaust routing we need to move the fuel lines to the other side of the car. Some go as far as running new lines down the right side of the car...but an easier solution is to extend the hardlines and go up and around the engine bay with the brake lines. To do so you can use an assortment of connections


Fuel Damper:
The stock JZ engines utilize a fuel damper to minimize pulses produced by the fuel pump and injectors while delivering variable amounts of fuel. How to deal with this part is a topic of hot debate on many Supra and Toyota forums and there seems to be a fairly even split on whether to keep it or not. The pros are obvious, it promotes steady and uniform fuel pressure at each injector and was clearly designed and implemented by Toyota for a reason. The cons are it’s another potential failure point and can be seen as a restriction to high-flowing, upgraded fuel systems.

There are a lot of rumors and hearsay surrounding the Fuel Damper I suggest you look further into if you’re interested...but I’ll just jump to what I chose to do, keep it. My fuel system is a 255LPH fuel pump, Z32 fuel filter, stock rail/injectors/ECU and an Aeromotive adjustable FPR. I ditched the banjo bolt fitting and ran RUS-640803 M12x1.25 fittings from the damper and fuel rail return to go to the feed line and FPR, respectively. It's your choice to use AN lines or barbed fuel injection grade rubber hose like I did.


MAF Differences:
JZX100 MAF: TOYOTA 22250-50060
JZX110 MAF: TOYOTA 22204-46020

JZZ30 MAF same as JZX100 ..?
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/perf...-vvti-maf.html


Bad ECU Capacitors
http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/9-guid...-on-a-1jz-ecu/


Drive-by-Wire Options
You don't need a special pedal for the X110 drive by wire in the late model 1JZ VVTI's. Instead a mechanical cable like the early models have is attached to the throttle body but instead of turning the throttle body plate when actuated, it instead spins a potentiometer that tells the ECU what the input was, the ECU then accommodates and sends a signal over to the DBW gears to actuates the plate.

So there is no fancy pedal involved, just electronics at work. There's a few options for remedying this.

1. Swap to earlier throttle body, harness, ECU and MAF (x110 uses a different MAF).

OR

2. Drive by Wire 'delete' kit by Premium Japan
http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/p.../item/kit-001/


Here's Toyota's ETCS-I explanation:




Gearing
240SX diff should be fine for most setups using an R154 but please refer to the link below to verify the gearing and play around with setups.

S13: 4.083 rear
R154+stock S13 diff Final Drive:


http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Throttle Cable
1986 TOYOTA TERCEL 1.5L L4 throttle cable can be bought off RockAuto for $15 shipped. Supposedly it fits perfect but I managed to use the stock DE cable for now. I've wrapped it around and tucked it near the intake manifold. I then put it in what I believe to be the cruise control slot but it fully opens and closes the TB just fine.



Traction Control
ETCS or TRC. ETCS-i is drive by wire traction control.
Butterfly removal http://mkiv.com/techarticles/trac_butterfly/index.html

I found a good delete that doesn't require welding if you don't have the resources from Club Lexus:

Idle Air Control Valve (IACV / ICV)
I chose to remove it and have a strong 750RPM idle that has never stalled. Simply remove the vacuum pipe and cover air port from the intake and iacv. I also unplugged the connection. Then bump your idle set screw to a desirable idle speed. I started off high (all the way in) and worked my way down. You can also create a block off plate and simplify your intake.



General Vacuum Line Advice
I've had a few PMs asking about what I deleted and kept. This is what I typically send:"all of the stock vacuum switching valves I've deleted including boost solenoid. I actually removed every line and only ran what was necessary:
Brake booster
boost gauge
FPR
BOV
Wastegate

I even removed the IACV and just bumped up my idle using the set screw on the throttle body bracket. Idles great at 800RPM and never stalls. I ran the stock bypass valve at first but ended up finding out that it was leaking (made the car feel really slow). I ran no bov for a few months but now have an HKS. It's nice but shoots huge flames. Can be cool but I'm careful when on public roads."


Electric Fan Clearance
TBD. Fan placement will be tight. Chase Bays offers a cool upgrade that places your radiator forward in the rad support...but most people like me want to avoid that. Whatever set up you may choose, make sure to have a shroud. Straight-six 240s will always run hot, most are able to fit pullers but there's a good chance you'll have to run pushers.

I am picking up Flex-a-Lite 420. It's shrouded, dual fan setup and have my engine pushed back as far as possible in the engine bay (thanks to the Xcessive mounts!).

How VVTI Works & Advantages:
http://www.kaizenmotorsports.com/blo...te-vvti-system


VVTI Issues/Symptoms:
I actually haven't had issues yet but here's a great tutorial I would advise doing while maintaining the engine before installation
http://www.2jzgarage.com/2013/08/cle...rol-valve-ocv/

And here's symptoms of bad VVTI solenoid:
Also the VVTI cam gear seal can leak...there's a very specific way to take the cam gear apart but technically Toyota doesn't recommend it. This video below explains too well so watch that. Seal or new cam gear can be bought from Driftmotion.


VVTI OCV Notes
I replaced my oil control valve (OCV) aka solenoid as well but noted that they changed part number from Toyota 15330-46010 to Toyota 15330-46011. You'll notice the ends of them are slightly different but they will function identically (they removed the snap ring and made it integral to the casting). The new part model seals better as well.

Here's a nice diagram showing the system


Oil Pump Modifications:
From what I've gathered this is largely for high HP, high RPM builds. For a relatively stock setup as mine is, I just did some light porting to prevent any chance of cavitation and called it a day.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...mming-oil-pump
http://www.onecamonly.com/threads/mo...ance-use.1872/
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...eprinting.aspx

Also note the differences in 1JZ and 2JZ oil pumps. If the links die, basically 2JZ pump >> 1JZ pump. Smoother radii and bigger volume.
Other Useful Information:
http://www.driftworks.com/blog/2011/...i-inspiration/
http://jp-carparts.com/lexus/figlist...1A0&cartype=13
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9ZV-6PdUvU
http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_1.htm


Non-Nissan Acronyms that confused me:
JZX100: Toyota Mark II, Chaser
JZZ30: Toyota Soarer (SC300)
JZX110: Toyota Crown, Verossa
TRC: old school Toyota traction control
ETCS: newer Toyota traction control
ETCS-I: drive-by-wire traction control
BPU: basic power upgrade (front mount, intake, 3” exhaust, boost controller)


You do not need all of these parts but if you want to know exactly what I used and what parts I ordered...here ya go!


I didn't wire the engine myself because finding the Soarer VVTI body harness pinouts was tough. JZZ30 and JZX100 ECU wiring is identical though. Further information will be posted here.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing


Things that get power:
Injectors
Igniter
Coils
Iacv
o2

1JZGTE VVTi Computer
Plugs C88 (34P) C84 (22P) C85 (16P) C86 (28P)

Plug C84 - 22pin

Throttle Position Sensor C50-4 VC C84 1 BL-Y
Blank C84 2
Clutch Speed Sensor NCO- C84 3 Gr
ECT Speed Sensor SP2- C84 4 R-Y
Engine Speed Sensor NE C84 5 Br
Sensor Common NE- C84 6 B-R
Throttle Position Sensor VTA C84 7 Y
Airflow Meter C98-2 VG C84 8 R-W
ECT Speed Sensor SP2+ C84 9 BL-Y
Cam Position Sensor G2 C84 10 BL
Cruise Control Computer IDL C84 11 Gr-Y
Throttle Position Sensor VTA2 C84 12 Y-R
Oxygen Sensor OX1 C84 13 W
Traction Control Computer VT02 C84 14 Br-W
Clutch Speed Sensor NCO+ C84 15 R
Igniter C104-5 IGT3 C84 16 BL-W
Igniter C104-6 IGT2 C84 17 R-B
ECT TDCL OIL C84 18 Y-Gr
Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR C84 19 R-BL
Water Temp Sensor THW C84 20 Gr
Airflow Meter C98-3 THA C84 21 Y-B
Throttle Sensor Common E2 C84 22 Br

Plug C85 - 16pin

Traction Control Computer NEO C85 1 P-BL
Main Relay via CA2-8 MREL C85 2 B-OR
TDCL via CI1-18 W C85 3 BL-Y
Fuel Pump Control Relay D1 C85 4 P
Diagnostic Connector TE1 C85 5 LGr
Blank 6
Traction Control Computer EFI+ C85 7 W
VSV Heat Pressure Valve FPU C85 8 BL
Traction Control Computer FAIL C85 9 W-Gr
Fuel Pump Control Relay TPC C85 10 R-W
Traction Control Computer EFI- C85 11 B
VSV Air Bubble EVAP C85 12 Gr-B
Blank 13
VSV (ABV) WGV C85 14 Gr-R
Blank 15
Blank C85 16 N/A

Plug C86 - 28 pin

TDCL via CI1-5 TT C86 1 Gr-R
Neutral Start Switch L C86 2 W
TO CI1-3 P C86 3 Gr-Or
Blank C86 4
A/C Magnetic Clutch ACMG C86 5 W
Meter Check Computer OD2 C86 6 G-R
Cruise Control Computer ECT C86 7 Br-Y
Cruise Control Computer A/D C86 8 Gr-Or
Ignition Switch Power IGSW C86 9 B-OR
Neutral Start Switch S C86 10 Gr
TDCL via CI1-2 TE2 C86 11 Gr-Y
Speed Signal from comb. meter SP1 C86 12 P
Diagnostic Connector + CI2-9 CCO C86 13 LGr-B
Power Supply from EFI Fuse BATT C86 14 B-Y
Blank 15
Blank 16
Traction Control Computer ABS C86 17 R
Traction Control Computer EFIF C86 18 G-BL
Blank C86 19
A/C Computer via CH1-5 A/C C86 20 BL-R
Blank C86 21
Switched power from Main Relay B+ C86 22 B-R
Switched power from Main Relay +B1 C86 23 B-R
Blank C86 24
From CF1-7 Stop Switch STP C86 25 Gr-W
Blank C86 26
A/C High Pressure Switch ELS3 C86 27 W-R
from Relay Block 4 via CF2-11 ELS C86 28 R-Y

Plug C88 - 34 pins

ECT TDCL SLT+ C88 1 W-Gr
No 4 ECT TDCL SLT- C88 2 Y
Traction Control Computer VT01 C88 3 Pu
No 3 ECT TDCL SLU+ C88 4 B
Injector #60 C88 5 R-W
Injector #50 C88 6 W-BL
Injector #40 C88 7 R-B
Injector #30 C88 8 B
Combination Meter ECW C88 8 W-R
Injector #20 C88 9 W
Injector #10 C88 10 Y
No 1 ECT TDCL S1 C88 11 LGr
Igniter C104-4 IGF C88 12 Gr-R
Starter (Manual) STA C88 13 B-W
Starter (Auto) NSW C88 14 B-W
VVT Solenoid C101-2 OCV- C88 15 P
VVT Solenoid C101-1 OCV+ C88 16 R
No 2 ECT TDCL S2 C88 17 R-W
Traction Control Computer ETC+ C88 18 OR
Diagnostic Connector VF C88 19 BL-B
Idle Speed Control ISC4 C88 20 BL-W
Idle Speed Control ISC3 C88 21 Gr-Y
Idle Speed Control ISC2 C88 22 Y-Gr
Idle Speed Control ISC1 C88 23 P
Igniter C104-7 IGT1 C88 24 BL-R
Traction Control Computer E1 C88 25 W-R
Airflow Meter EVG C88 26 BL-B
Traction Control Computer ETC- C88 27 W
ECT TDCL SLU+ C88 28 Gr-W
Knock Sensor KNK2 C88 29 W
Knock Sensor KNK1 C88 30 W
Traction Control Computer IDL2 C88 31 BL-Y
Throttle Position Sensor IDL C88 32 R
Earth CG E02 C88 33 W-B
Earth CG E01 C88 34 W-B

1 = charge warning lamp = yellow/gray
2 = switched live = black/yellow or just black
3 = voltage sense = white
More wiring threads that halped me:
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=9960
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=1826312247


Since I've created this thread, I've had multiple PMs through many outlets and helped a ton of people with small problems that I thought would be good to capture here.

Misfire in boost/lack of power
Anyone that's ever owned a 1JZ swapped car knows about misfires. A common problem for many turbo cars, the 1J and other imported motors are prone to issues because sit for long periods of time at importers, been mistreated while in Japan or PO, and have components that are ~20 years old. Search on google for full diagnosis but a few things to check out would be:
1. Boost/Vacuum leaks: Most of the time it is due to this. I had a leak where the 1J VVTI top feed injectors met the intake manifold. Very tricky to find without a boost leak test. See some of the subjects below as well.

2. Weak ignition: Very common for the coilpacks to have cracks in them that expand and contract from heat causing erratic misfire conditions that can be tough to find. Check the coil for any signs of a crack. A good test is to use liquid tape around them to see if it improves. This is not a permanent solution but can help if at the track. Also check the coil pack connectors are very brittle and need to be fully seated. Make sure the coilpack is grounded to the head with a hold down bolt and not stripped out or missing. Ensure none of the spark plug wires (VVTI only) are cracked or frayed. Also could be bad spark plugs, not a bad idea to change out such a cheap part. If you're having to close the gap anywhere tighter than 0.022" or so on stock/BPU power levels...you probably have other issues (stuck injector, bad FPR, worn coilpacks/igniter, etc)

3. Fuel Issues. Make sure your fuel pump is correctly running at 12V (look up 12V relay mod), injectors are good (resistance test), no fuel leaks, new fuel filter. I had a leaking injector that was easily tested for. Pull out all your spark plugs and key on the fuel pump to pressurize the system. I had fuel mist steaming out of cylinder 5's spark plug hole so knew immediately there was a leak. Unlike Nissan KA sidefeed, there is no oring that is likely pinched but rather the injector should be replaced. Try calling your local importer as these VVTI stock topfeed don't have a US-equivalent.

4. Bad ECU. Common in many 90's ECUs, capacitors are prone to oozing out onto the circuit and causing all sorts of erratic problems. Although forums make it seem like this is to be expected, from my experiences I haven't seen this to always be true. It's not hard to pop the cover off and look around for any obvious signs of failure. There are services that provide replacement/repair but it might be easier to track down a known good ECU and test that out before doing so.

Leaky/Broken IACV
When I first started my swap it sounded like it was idling at 3000rpm. I thought it might be a leak but never could get the IACV to do it's job because the valve itself was leaking. Instead of chasing down another known good IACV, i opted for something I did back on my KA-T, removing the IACV. To do so:
1. Unplug and remove valve
2. Loop coolant lines
3. Block spot on intake manifold
4. Block hole on Jpipe side
5. Block small vacuum line from IACV pipe
6. Locate throttle set screw and screw all the way in
7. Refine idle speed by slowly unscrewing the set screw

Leaky/Broken Bypass Valve
The stock bypass valve is a recirculated blow off valve that takes its cue from the boost solenoid next to it (blue plug).


Criticism, corrections, comments, etc welcome! Oh and the videos aren't super helpful in terms of explaining how to do it, just a nice visual representation of the experience.

Enjoy.

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e30gangsta

Awesome thread good work! Sticky please!

[email protected]

wow this is really good, sticky worthy for sure!

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JZ78

X3 for sticky

sent from my mind

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91 s13 hatch back in the game

DriftingBrandon

Bump, very useful.

LockOn!

Deng, nice man. Good share.

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ATLspeed

*applaud* *high five*

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93 s13 Vert - 2jz/cd009 -- parted/sold
95 Supra Turbo

Freddy

As someone that going to do this in the near future.

Thank You.

overdueBlaSiaN

This is going to be fun to follow
Good job

uncanente

Deng, nice man. Good share.

bmaddock

Thanks guys, I'm glad to hear other people appreciate this thread. If you want any more information or further clarification please let me know to update the thread. Adding wiring info now because it's looking like I'll be tackling this as well now and not paying someone.

Again, thread's still in progress as of now. Hoping to get the engine and transmission in this weekend after I route the fuel lines up and over.

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DKnissanman

ha! im almost finished! just needing it to start, no spark....gonna test the ecu plugs for harness.


so close! ive spent 7 months on mine...first swap ever lol....

DKnissanman

ill add on to this aswell since i just got done with the whole swap!


heres what i used:

trans- got from lswans garage and is a late soarer trans.
*MAKE SURE YOU GET SHIFTER IF ITS 2ND GEN SOARER R154 BECAUSE THEY ARE EXTINCT. i had to search 3 months until i found a remote r154 shifter in new Zealand.

clutch line from enjuku

gear oil- redline

rad- KA VS SR. IF YOU go ka then you have to cut waterneck some.

if you go sr (i did) then you have to make a custom hose due to length or just have a welder change the neck for the radiator over.

fans- just went with two 12 inch i believe ebay fans and they barely fit (one is unlevel since i didnt want hitting the pulley.

drive shaft- shaft masters aswell and fits perfect

MOTOR- 1JZGTE VVTI chaser from lswans garage.
Harness is shorter on these so expect a bit more pay when getting harness done from someone experienced since they must be extended quite abit.

fuel lines- just got some rubber hose from sjop in town along with all my bolts and stuff.

IMPORTANT ** throttle body may have to be cut to fit ic coupler as it was for me, which is ok. (in picture cut black and weld the pink together)








heater hoses- you will have to get creative. GOOD LUCK getting the back one (behind the head) off as mine has to have been on there for 20 years it seems.

downpipe- i got a cx racing one off my buddy and it fits good.

as far as new parts

i ordered a gasket kit from champion toyota in texas (researched) and was the cheapest as it was about 300 i think. YOU WILL NEED PART NUMBER

and then i got a water pump, new timing stuff, and obviously gaskets and seals.


mounts- ebay mounts...they fit ok but we had to dill new holes as the ones made were stupid.

***trans mount wont work with regular r154 2nd gen mount. YOU MUST get the 1jzgte mark 3 supra r154 mount to work.



1jzgte engine mounts- mine sucked....they broke midway on transfer so i had to use hockey pucks...buy good ones.


harness- i searched and searched and went with justin collins over at qfab...and so far its been ok. i got the harness back and havent got it diagnosed but it wont start so as soon as i get that figured out then ill decide how it went.




ILL ADD AS I GO.












engine rubber mounts broke in this pic

DKnissanman

BTW- jzz30 and 1jzgte vvti are not the same pin layout.

ill post the proper layout soon

Freddy

Can any of you post picture of your fuel line set up?

Also are any of you going MAP instead of MAF. I want to get rid of that intake pipe.

DKnissanman

heres my buddys with a bov and stock ecu...dont know how but it doesnt stall at all either, its really weird.


even runs atmospheric bov.

DKnissanman

i just ziptied my fuel filter and fuel lines to run above the head....im on budget.


And as far as going map...you can and the best/cheapest way would be going with POWER FC d jetro made for 1jzgte vvti. you must go stand alone to achieve map.

Grenade180sx

Outstanding write up golf fucking clap!

Otto347

Anybody who wants to check their 1j vvti oil pump before replacing it I made a video on how to check everything.

I used the specs for the usdm 2j and my 1j pump checked out to all of the specs. I tried like hell to get a hold of a chaser factory service manual with no luck.

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bmaddock

Word! I referenced your video in the first post...or at least intended to. Was literally pulling my oil pump off today to finally do this before putting it all back together.

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Otto347

Cool, glad it has helped anyone. I have this post bookmarked so when I get around to the wiring this should make it easier.

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DKnissanman

my cars running...sounds like semi truck

JRex

Great thread for reference. Going to check my 1jz oil pump when I get home, hoping it's in spec! $200 less I have to spend to get going lol

As for the front & rear main seals it's the 'NATIONAL' part numbers right? These should fit a 1jz non-vvti correct?

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Never Due

Otto347

Have you checked your coil pigtails and the 3 plug wire clips that hold them to the coil? Most of mine were broken or broke upon trying to remove them.

You can get new coil pigtails from driftmotion

The plug wire caps you can get from lexus, the 1st gen is300 used the same coil and wire setup as the 1j. There are 3 different part numbers though, I would suggest replacing all 3. The reason for the different part numbers is the way the plug wire goes around the coils to get to the plug. One is straight on, and the other two come in at an angle which is built into the clips. I almost just ordered the cheapest one 3 times but glad I didnt. It was about $26 for all 3 and lexus had them there the next day.

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*brett*

which 1jz vvti came with the mechanical cable? what years? i dont even know what they look like

bmaddock

They all do. If you refer to the Drive-by-Wire Options section I wrote, you will see even the DBW throttle body uses a mechanical cable to actuate the throttle...except it just changes a potentiometer instead of the actual throttle plate. Watch the video in that section if you're unclear

Basically steer away from 1JZ VVTI's with the ETCS-I stamped on the throttle body. It can work just fine but I would prefer the mechanical one. Good luck!


Thanks! Yep I actually used 2JZ front and rear main seal numbers from RockAuto and they fit correctly.


Nice dude, post a video!



Giving David video for two more videos this weekend. Got all my shit in finally and have had some time to make progress this week. Should be started and running this weekend.. driveshaft comes in next week and driving not too long after.

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brandonnn1002

Sick! I have a 1j vvti in my s14. It runs awesome, only I'm having an issue with it running rich when it warms up. It happens right when it gets into boost. I've replaced the TPS, ECU temp sensor, MAF. I have a custom downpipe with open dump from the fabricator mentioned in the OP. Then straight pipe on back. My a/f pins out at 10 when I hit boost. =[ I wish I knew what the issue was! Other than that it runs really well.

Koukiii

Excellent thread! Bookmarked.

bmaddock

So I bought an awesome product last week that I'm hoping to install soon. Future Fabrication's turbo elbow for the 1JZ VVTI specifically. It's been dyno proven to give an additional 26whp on a completely stock engine, stock tune, stock injectors. It's also compatible with the Tomei ARMS M8280 upgrade and Driftmotion upgraded CT15B. Quality appears to be top notch, I opted for the rerouted wastegate but they do also offer external dump for those who want the screamer pipe. More info here: http://futurefabrication.com/future-...turbine-elbow/

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